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  1. Past hour
  2. Wondering what everyone here thinks of it, really thinking about getting one and would like some input, thanks
  3. Yesterday
  4. the adapter is so the LXT batteries can charge in the XGT chargers. I'm kinda disappointed. Makita was the last of the big 3 to not go to a new battery platform and they finally gave in and halfway failed. Flexvolt is a new battery platform and so is High Output but they at least work with their regular line of 18v tools.
  5. Wow Makita just commited suicide
  6. I own this charger. I basically put my 18v Dual charger up in the cabinet, as this dual 12/18v charger covers everything.
  7. Hello, Newbie from Eastern KY. Mike Bartley DIY user of tools, but prefer Pro level performance so I try to invest in the best quality tools I can possibly afford. Have watched the YouTube videos of TIA for some time now, discovered the website, and decided to join the forum. Thank You to TIA for this tool information resource.
  8. spinningreel

    18v Polisher

    Just got this Polisher about a month ago. (Model XOP02Z) Bare tool model. Very nice. I previously owned/used a Flex 3401 Corded model, and it was also a very good polisher, but the ability to use my Makita 18v 5.0ah batteries and not worry about dragging an extension cord across my vehicle paint is really nice.
  9. Sorry, I was not very clear. We have to mount floor timbers in a house using galvanised joist hangers as we need to lower the floor. The previous floor rested on top of the wall whereas we need to be 14 inches lower fixing the joist hangers to the rendered brick work lower down. The idea of being able to fire fixings in with a nail gun would save a load of time as the alternative is to drill, plug and screw some 400 times! Tedious.
  10. I'd imagine the idea is to keep weight down and compactness, and still achieve more power? I have a lot of 18 volt and 36 volt Makita, and am happy with the performance and weight of both types, so I'm not over excited about the new platform. I guess if I started buying the new 40 volt stuff and acquiring a few batteries along the way, I may feel different.
  11. I Don't know which cells they are using, I have one 1 3AH battery, it came with my orbital sander. Have to say I generally prefer the 2AH batteries. I find them significantly lighter, and when I need additional battery life, Ie for a saw za or a circular saw, I go with the 5AH batteries.
  12. The weight capacities on some of these options would be more than enough.
  13. Personally I don't need a 10 in and don't see why one needs to be released. The current Flexvolt table saw is big enough. How many times am I going to need a 10 in table saw? 99% of the time you probably aren't cutting anything more than 2-1/2 inches which the flexvolt is more than capable.
  14. I'm not sure how the blade will be mounted. I have not installed a blade before. I was going to have my mower mechanic install the blade.I may see if he has any good ideas for mounting lights.
  15. Welcome to the crew and the forum
  16. I have had no problems with the lights. They are wired directly to the battery. With an in line fuse. I had originally planned to remove them in the summer as I have more daylight to work, but never got around to it. I chose that location because it worked best for me. I don't use it in the winter. A thought here, do you take the weights off when you put the blade on it? You could some kind of Mount to raise up from the weight mount points
  17. Picked up a second 8.0 battery. I did put this one on the old "30 minute charger" and it charged in under 1½ hrs which should be sufficient for me.
  18. @Jrhky36 I like where you put them except it is not very practical for my situation. I have counter weights for my bagging system installed on the front and in the winter where I expect to use them the most, I will have a snow blade on the front. I could maybe have a custom mount built for the front to raise them above the snow blade. I could also rear mount but it would probably require buying the rollbar or having a custom mount built. Side mount would probably be the easiest option but more limiting on my size options because I wouldn't want them sticking out past the widest point of the mower. Have the lights you went with been reliable with long term use? What connector did you have to go with? The Deutsch DT? The 2 way SAE? Just by going off the price the Rough Country lights should be higher quality than the ones off of Amazon. As an example I could go with a 100 different no name brands off of Amazon and get a 20 in for $40 or go with a 10 in Rough Country for $100-$200. It is priced between the Rigid and the Amazon ones.
  19. I added lights to my Scag 52" Tiger Cat (2015). I used lights from Rough Country. I think I paid $150. The lights are 2 smaller ones. I did have to add angle brackets to make them work. The kit included the wiring harness with a separate fuse, and on/off button. I think they put out 2600 lumens each. They do a nice job of lighting up the path I'm going. The Scag kit I think is around $200 or more. If you would like more pics just ask
  20. Last week
  21. Manufacturing and consumers in the states are a mixed bag or Milwaukee would be out of business. In a true free market such as commodities with no competitive advantage it is purely a supply and demand game. This is great for consumers because nobody makes any money and the price is as low as possible. It is awful for manufacturers though because they will have maybe 2-3% margins at best when the stock markets demand at least 10% or better. They will soon be out of business. That is where a lot of Asian tool brands are at and what you see all over ebay and Amazon. They pop up and disappear for a reason. What you want/need as a manufacturer is a competitive advantage. You have to sell your name and reputation, superior product, better customer support, something. This is the opposite of a free market. Lower prices only works long term as long as somehow nobody else can beat you on manufacturing costs. There has to be a reason and it has to be some kind of natural geographical feature that cannot be duplicated. Otherwise that is strictly a short term game. This is why Australia beats the world when it comes to delivered price for coal and iron to China...shipping cost advantages being “next door”, even though those are commodities. Australia is home to BHP for a reason and BHP is the largest mining company in the world. Premium tools are an oligopoly. The market is dominated by a small number of competitors. In that market we get Sweezys kinked demand model. Prices are set by watching each other. If you lower prices so do your competitors and everyone loses money instead of picking up market share. If you raise prices the competitors let you and you lose market share. This keeps prices in line. Occasionally competitors will run sales or threaten a price increase and test the water to see if the competitors will follow. Or something happens to raise or lower costs and then everyone tends to go up or down until they all settle down again. It may appear to be a free market but in reality it is right on the edge between a true free market and an unfree one. Hence as s consumer you can see how free markets keep everyone honest and the system is as fair as possible. As a manufacturer the goal is to constantly find new ways to “beat the system” to make more money. I’ve worked for years on the engineering side of things. I am really good at lean manufacturing... finding ways to reduce costs. But I have never, ever seen a company cost reduce themselves into profitability. That is the sirens call of lean manufacturing but it is an illusion. Again your competitors will just follow your lead. My competitors can’t hide their secrets from me for long and vice versa. It is a big financial benefit and worthwhile to improve manufacturing but to make large margins you have to have a competitive advantage, some new technology or something. Cost reduction alone is a proven failure. Harvard MBAs have been pushing this idea of squeezing every last drop of profit out of everything across the world and they have absolutely nothing to show for it but the dried up husks of once powerful and innovative companies they left behind them. When these locusts move in the first thing they do is get rid of all “extra” costs. Not just wages and benefits. They also dump or strip R&D, all new product development, all customer support, and strip sales down to a web site. They grind down and remove every spare clerk, foreman, you name it. They infest the company with low paid cheap staff that either can’t or have no interest in product quality. They get rid of accessories and add on products or price them off the market. After a few rounds of this the company is sold off or deemed unprofitable and goes bankrupt. They even call themselves manufacturing efficiency consultants. There is some good in all of it but largely it’s a scam. Ever heard of Engelhard, Griffin Pipe, or Dravo? Those are ones I worked at. Or the king if them all, GE? All eaten by Harvard locusts. So I understand your attitude that price rules everything. Price is very important but if it is all that matters then both the manufacturer and the consumer eventually lose.
  22. I keep splicing materials in a bag. I do a lot of large motors (motor shop) where it might take 6 rolls of tape or more for one motor. Along with silicone grease and liquid electrical tape. I tried to keep wire ties too but that’s just too much. They get their own bag. I tried organizing the splicing material but it seems to be best just to keep it all in a zipper bag with shears. That bag goes in the roll around base box which goes on all jobs outside of troubleshooting and controls. I break out the boxes of lugs and wire nuts because I don’t need to lug around 500 MCM lugs on a 25 HP motor but might need #14 lugs for thermal switches on a 2500 HP motor. The little Dewalt half width clear parts boxes fit the wire nuts. I need tape for marking and splicing on all of them but I don’t need tape on control jobs where I still need a knife and wire strippers so those stay in the main tool bag. I keep just one roll of 33+ or 88 there for troubleshooting. It seems like this stuff is scattered a bit but it is task specific. Another item is screws. The cheaper “small” Toughsystem tool box has 4 bins and an open center main compartment. There are two small bins in the top of the lid with a bunch of dividers. So I keep concrete anchors and drills in one bottom bin, another two dedicated to hole saws, step bits, and other special bits. The top bins have assortments of drywall, wood, and self tapping screws. The center compartment holds the drill, drill index, and extension handle. So everything “drill” related is in one box. I rarely use the side clips. I did at first but realized on the cart it’s not going anywhere. At best it’s somewhat anti-theft. Everything stays put normally as long as you engage the feet. I just stack the bins neatly on the bottom one and wheel it in. But this week was an exception. One day I was working in a vault. I got there early. So just closed the clips and lowered all the tools for the job into the vault with a rope by myself. Saved a lot of trips that way. Second I was driving at highway speeds and I had an empty tote loosely on top in the bed of the truck that I had emptied of parts. It was gusty that day. You can guess where this is going. It flew out just past an exit ramp where the detour to retrieve it was about 6 miles. I’ll think twice next time. As a +1 for Toughsystem a big black and yellow box flying out the back catches your eye in the mirrors easily and a second +1 not a scratch on it I could see! Ive dropped them, stood on them, had stuff drive on them, and now launched them and they keep holding up. Only problem I’ve had is when I put a new one in service and forgot to close the air valve on top, the parts inside were standing in an inch of water where a week of monsoon weather got into the box. But as a further +1 I live in coastal North Carolina. My tools in my unheated garage rust from constant high humidity and condensation. It’s a huge problem. But as long as I don’t close up the boxes with water inside or when it is raining, I’ve had almost no rust issues.
  23. Dewalt per usual waits for other manufacturers to create leading edge designs for them to rip from. Flexvolt was the only time in the last, what, 15 years that hasn't been the case and they've done practically nothing with it since. Who wants to own the market and take majority share when we can struggle to keep up. 🙄🤦‍♂️
  24. paulengr

    Purchasing on Amazon

    The OP asked about sourcing from Amazon not tool quality. In my mind you already got rid of the premium brand price going midrange. When it comes to sourcing if you can buy the same tool from another vendor with the same warranties and a better price go for it. But Amazon is not the seamless market it appears to be. In terms of quality this is the problem. HD is already leveraging their buying power and name recognition to take more margin for themselves and offering house brands at a cheaper price even over the crowded midrange market. PC is a midrange product of SBD, same as Craftsman. They also sell Dewalt and Black and Decker.’The midrange market falls between the low and high end. The issue is that there is going to be a design compromise. SBD is not going to cannibalize their Dewalt market. The design compromise might be reliability, offering a cheap price to occasional users, or it might be underpowered, few options, missing accessories, or otherwise compromised but still reliable. That’s what Porter Cable is, underpowered but reliable. You need experience and reviews to tell the difference. I mentioned Ridgid and Porter Cable because if someone is price conscious enough to look at the secondary market for a low to mid range brand, there’s no way they would consider a premium brand, whatever the logic is. The midrange market is tricky because no matter what tool or brand it is, there are compromises. SBD is not going to rebadge a Dewalt tool as Porter Cable because it cannibalizes Dewalt margins. The features, power, batteries, or reliability are going to be compromised, period. So we have to accept that compromises exist in the midrange market. The question is where the compromises can be made and still have an acceptable tool. A homeowner or other occasional use situation doesn’t need reliability or fast recharge times for instance. A light carpentry or assembler situation doesn’t need the speed of a dry waller, or the torque and energy of a mechanic drilling holes in plate. But where compromises are acceptable Ryobi might be a great fit. There are tools in the midrange market where the compromises are in the speed or torque departments but reliability is there. It can work for basically everybody but might be considered weak (Porter Cable impacts) or high vibration (Ridgid). Ryobi is both weak and low reliability. Depending on the work load it might last a long time and if it’s just shooting screws that’s fine. The midrange market would be much easier to figure out if they would all just put up signs telling us where the corners were cut. That isn’t going to happen so we don’t know directly, and that’s the midrange dilemma. The low end is easy...everything is probably compromised. It’s a one time use tool. All the packaging specs are lies but you wouldn’t run the tool at its limits anyways. You need it one time for something light duty. Like say I’m doing something with family and I took a plane trip to get there. When I’m done the tool gets given away or thrown away.
  25. Why would you put the hoist hangers directly into the concrete? Isn’t a ledger board better and to code? I can’t see putting hundreds of anchors into a small area of concrete very sound, structurally. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. To question: for small holes with the typical spade bit concrete hammer drills you can just hold the drill by hand. You can do this up to 2” which is dine with water cooled mining drill bits if you can find it. You are basically beating the the material with a haa amber to break it then sweeping away the material and repeating. Above that you drill a small hole with a hammer drill and mount a rod to support the drill then use a core hole saw to drill as big a hole as you want. This is the traditional solid concrete approach. The support can be done other ways with a little creativity. The core drill is cutting with diamonds so fragility isn’t really a problem as long as you go slow enough.
  27. HiltiWpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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