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Showing status updates and topics in About the forums, What's New, Ultimate Tool Bag Giveaway, Member Giveaways, TIA Swap Meet, WANTED, FOR SALE, Tool Deals, Power Tools, Tools, Power Tools By Manufacturer, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Bosch, Festool, Hilti, Makita, Hitachi/Metabo, Ridgid, Ryobi, All others not listed, Hand Tools, Accessories, Outdoor Power Equipment, Workplace, Around The House, In The Shop, Woodworking, Welding/Metal Working, Automotive, Pub Talk, Introduce yourself, Collector's Resource and Site Help & Feedback posted in for the last 365 days.

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  1. Yesterday
  2. Just got the Ryobi 40v mower. It has a loud squeak from the right rear wheel. Seems like it’s coming from the rear wheel drive Motor shaft. Anyone run into this? Any fix?
  3. M80

    Makita Battery cell 20700

    It says right in the description. "Protective cover helps prevent battery contamination"
  4. I don't believe they are discontinued, just some of the big box stores are getting rid of them. If you believe the marketing, they are more for contractors than homeowners which are used to not getting a lot of their stuff from big box stores anyway. I had them and think they worked great. I have been donating my set to my father though as I replace them with either the 20 or 60v items so that way I have one less platform to worry about. The batteries will stay expensive.
  5. Last week
  6. Sarbatche

    Dewalt outdoor

    I have most of 40v tools despite not being a landscaper. I appreciate the runtime. I may have gone for the 60v analogs if they had existed when the first 40v tools came out. Only complaint with the mower is that it’s a push mower and not driven.
  7. Some pics and product info on IG, toolsbydesign.
  8. currently im 4 weeks in royal palm beach what store ?? thx mike
  9. ChrisK

    Dewalt outdoor

    I have a few Dewalt OPE however it is limited to the 20v blower, 20v weed whacker and the 20v trimmer. Great tools, love them but man last year they liquidated the 40v stuff. Not sure where it is. The site still shows the tools as available but...at least they have remained true to the 18v/20v line and still produce 18v tools. I really wanted the new 60v mower but have heard a mixed bag on it. I will say i have the M18 HD chainsaw. Nice machine, lots of power very smooth.
  10. Most commercial guys I see use the weed eater to do their edging and do it very fast. I may be wrong on this but I think edgers are less used then maybe they used to be and string trimmers are able to do the edgers job without haveing to switch tools or walk a mile back to their trailer
  11. fm2176

    Thanks DeWalt!

    I've only registered a couple. DeWalt seems to go off the date code...so far I've warrantied a DS450, DCB102, and the DCB204 with no issues.
  12. Bremon

    Dewalt outdoor

    The last part of your post better describes Milwaukee. In the meantime they offer OPE on 3 platforms, and offer no edger while Milwaukee offers no mower. Can’t please everyone I guess.
  13. I actually just got to use them for the first time last week. I had to drill 32- 3/4"dia. x 9" deep holes in concrete that was about 20 years old. The holes were to anchor down a grain bin so I worked one way around the circle with the Milwaukee and another guy went the other way with the dewalt. In the end the milwaukee drilled 17 holes and the Dewalt drilled 15, but there wasn't anything scientific to it nor was it a true head to head. Both drill bits had some amount of wear and we both stopped about half way through to give the drills a bit of a break and went back and cleaned out the holes with air to get them ready to epoxy the anchors. We both had sets of batteries that we switched every few holes just to try counteract some heat build up. The dewalt drained 2- 6.0 flexvolt batteries dead and had two bars left on 2- 6.0 xr batteries. With the Milwaukee I had 3- 9.0 batteries one of which started with just 3 bars and I used the three until they were down to one bar and then I used one bar of a 6.0 to finish my last two holes. Overall I would say the two drills are very comparable and really didn't have any problems drilling the holes. Both drills did get pretty warm in the gear case area and both expelled some grease from the chuck. Yea dwain after seeing your review and the other experience I've had dewalts 60v tools I wished the sds plus version was available in the US. When researching them I did see the US 20v does indeed have the same specs as the 54v/60v but it would be interesting to see if there is any difference in real world performance. It still seems like Hilti is king when it comes to rotary hammers but it was hard to justify when I'm already so deeply invested in other battery platforms.
  14. ScottGunn

    Dewalt outdoor

    I am a long time Dewalt consumer, but just don’t understand Dewalt’s take on the outdoor landscaping equipment. Why have a completely different battery system (40v) so that those of us who have invested tons into the 60v system have to buy even more? Secondly, WHY IN THE WORLD would they not offer an edger!? That is a deal breaker for almost any home owner or commercial landscaper I know of. Just saying, if you aren’t going to offer a minimal line of the best tools you can put out...then don’t do it until you can. Lately Dewalt seems to be putting out tools that people are regretting buying because they update them soon afterwards fixing all the issues that never should have existed in the first place.
  15. I picked up Dewalts new cordless sander. Seller made me wait for awhile so they gave me a free 2.0 battery for my trouble. Didn’t have the manual so I’ll be looking for a file online
  16. thats too bad. It was a tool line that wanted to stay around but didn't really have a place. The intent was good but the execution was not ideal. The batteries in theory had the best watt hours of DeWALT's 3 ope lines but wasn't really enough to warrant going into the 40v line.
  17. I picked up a used Starrett builders square
  18. How high is the table on the Ryobi 15 Amp 10 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser?
  19. I have the following equipment and would be grateful for help in selecting connector / pointer to for metabo kgs 216 mitre saw metabo sxe 450 orbital sander Charnwood w715 bandsaw i wish to connect all of these to a 32mm cyclone hose. Have searched all across the internet but cannot seem to get details / find connector. Regards, mike
  20. Got a second Sure Can 2.2 gallon and my first Sure Can 5 gallon from Acme they should arrive in the mail soon. I think they were on special or just a lower price than normal. I also got an Ego Multi Head with string trimmer attachment from HD for $50 off. Yes I am going to use a battery trimmer for commercial use (I'll have a gas unit as backup). I am also contemplating getting the pole hedge trimmer attachment but have not pulled the trigger yet. I also picked up some things for the trailer like trimmer racks and whatnot from PJ.
  21. This statement is false. They are not “rated” to trip at 12a, nor will they trip in “minutes” of running above 12a (unless operating in abnormally high temperatures or other abnormal contributing factors). Please show the 12a “rating”. I certainly understand that non-continuous rated breaker will trip when under an increased continuous load. That was never a contentious point. You claimed a 15a breaker wasn’t actually rated for 15a. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. If you prefer Schneider, fine. https://www.schneider-electric.us/en/faqs/FA236739/ “An 80% overcurrent device, either circuit breaker of fused switch, will carry 80% of its rating continuously. Loading above that level will eventually result in the overcurrent device’s activation if maintained. The higher the loading level the faster the time for activation.” It isn’t an engineering thing. The trip curves are indeed the same and work the same outside of an enclosure but in an assembly the standard breakers are rated at 80%. It isn’t just that the breaker is overloaded (ampacity) but it will actually trip. I have had this happen first hand. What’s going on? It’s a panel heating thing. See below. https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2016/07/19/100-vs-80-choosing-the-right-ocpd-solution/ The issue is inside a distribution panel temperatures go up which changes the calibration of the thermal element. UL, NEC, and CEC account for this by adding 125% to continuous loads which is the same as allowing a maximum 80% load on the breaker, or 12 A vs. 15 A. This isn’t just an engineering or design thing. The first time I ran into this with multiple nuisance trips on a 400 A standard Siemens breaker in a panelboard. Not picking on Siemens here, that’s just what it was. It tripped multiple times. We recorded the current and found we were running at 350 A, on a mining machine that runs aroond the clock with almost no break at shift change. We changed the breaker twice figuring we just got a dud. I even pulled a “failed” breaker and tested it...trip curve was spot on. THD was very low...not a harmonic problem. It kept tripping. Siemens tech support pointed out the issue and we switched to 100% rated...problem vanished. I’ve seen this happen once in a while since then. It’s not just an obscure or bogus Code or engineering thing. This usually happens when someone especially an engineer designs for the rating (100%) and loads the breaker to 90-100%. Engineers don’t learn Code in school and mist industrial electricians don’t either. I do breaker testing. I get calls when this obscure trip issue happens. I usually test the “defective” breaker, especially after swapping breakers a couple times. In this relatively obscure case they pass but trips installed in the panel. So then we do power system testing looking for the actual load which is sometimes in the mystery 80-100% zone. That’s when you get all the highly credentialed engineers, electricians, and management people all upset. I get called names. Often they don’t want to pay for the testing and send the business to a competitor. Or they accuse the manufacturer of selling cheap junk. They just can’t accept the idea that a breaker can test at 15 A then actually trips at a lower value. Then they go around and around on this before they accept what NEC, UL, and the manufacturers are telling them. Going to a 100% rated breaker (when available), or sizing for 125% fixes it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Biggie

    DHS680 and DCS551

    My bad, yea in the US metal saws have different arbors than wood saws. I don't think I would want to use a wood saw to cut metal either but I know Diablo makes a metal blade for most of your common sizes and they can spin at like 11000rpm.
  24. JakeDewalt

    Thanks DeWalt!

    I never registered any of my tools 😿
  25. Makita_2233

    DHS680 and DCS551

    Wouldn’t recommend using the 680 at all to cut metal. Makita will void the warranty if found out it was used to cut metal, that’s if you had a warranty problem I guess. From memory a 165mm metal cutting blade is 5000 and the 680 is 5000, that’s push the blade at its limit. It will dull quickly. If I’m cutting steel on the 551 with the saw 45° to me I can feel chips hitting, it would be worst with the 680 because it doesn’t have that clear PC cover. The 553 is a lot better with the chip collection. FYI the 680 and 533 both have a 20mm arbor, will be the same in most metric countries. The North America 680 as a 5/8 arbor and their 533 has a 20mm arbor
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