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  2. The new m12 stubby from Milwaukee has 250 ft lbs of breakaway torque on paper if you go with the 1/2 in or 3/8 in models. It is only $179 bare tool which isn't a terrible price. Also for mechanics, the Milwaukee line seems to have the most options. You got m12 ratchets, m12 stubbys, m18 compact, m18 mid torque, m18 high torque. M12 extension ratchets, m18 high torque with extended anvil, and m12 torque wrenches are being added to the lineup soon. Another company to look at for mechanics is Ingersoll Rand. I'm not too familiar with their lineup but I know they have a few different mechanic focused impacts.
  3. I'm sure it could be heavily debated as to which is more durable brushed or brushless. We first started using brushless in 2014 and my personal experience has been that the brushless tools have more high tech electronics that can be more susceptible to failure in extreme conditions. Yes brushed tools have brushes that might wear at a faster rate in harsh conditions but they are also relatively cheap to replace versus electronic components of the brushless. Either way you go you might just find that the dust is hard on both tools so if you don't want to spend extra money and have the tool and batteries I would just run that setup. On the other hand if you have the money I don't think you would be disappointed upgrading to a new tool with lithium ion batteries. Milwaukee has a complete and very strong line up of impact wrenches and we've switched to them because impact wrenches are kind of our goto tools. Dewalt does make a compact brushless 3/8" impact wrench dcf890 but they refuse to release a 1/2" compact brushless, which for the life of me I can't figure out why.
  4. If I use the brushed 18v tools I currently have, would they hold up to dust? The reason I'm wanting to switch to brushless is for changing dust collecter filters, which means literally getting filled with dust, and I was recommended to replace them (by a questionable source). If it's not necessary I'll stick with the 18v. As far as torque, the guy training me has a mastercraft (canadian tire) 165 foot pound compact. It's available for half the price of the name brands, but the quality is iffy. I wanted something smaller in a dewalt, but the mid torque is the most compact brushless they have. I'm currently only doing oil/filter changes so I don't need high torque, which is why I half considered ridgid. Is ridgid a reliable cordless tool? It will be 4+ years (if ever) that I'm offered a mechanical apprenticeship, so the impact is basically all I need for work and I already have a selection of 18v dewalt at home. Also nobody, mechanics included, uses anything bigger than a half inch cordless as the company supplies the bigger tools. Anyways, I really appreciate the reply. As far as overall picture, dewalt 20v is at the top of my list as they seem to have more budget options than milwaukee for home use, which will make up the bulk of my tools when I eventually phase out 18v. I don't see myself ever needing the massive torque of the milwaukee 3/4" unless I go back to pipefitting (at this point not something I want to do), so I only am entertaining buying red as I loved the quality.
  5. Not sure about Canada but all tools are pretty good dust wise but brushless should theoretically hold up better. Mining is tough on everything. But consider this. Mid torque (150-250 ft-lbs) is about what you can realistically do by hand. As in throwing your full weight on an 18" wrench at say 150 lbs. gets you to 225 ft-lbs. You will find practically you can still do things with hand wrenches the impact won't touch without using techniques like double wrenching or a 24" breaker bar but you're pushing limits here. At 200+ ft-lbs you will tend to shear off bolts and nuts that are under 3/8". This is where it's nice to have a smaller impact driver (eliminates carrying a drill too) or impact only. I carry one with my 3/8 and 1/4 sockets separate from 1/2". This is for run of the mill fasteners. Then when you step up to 3/4" sockets when you're at typically 1-1/4" or larger nut you need to up the torque. Also it's mining...there are plenty of situations where corrosion is a serious problem. At that point you can go old school with breaker bars, cheaters (pipe), slugging wrenches, large size long handle ratchets, or the modern approach is to step up to high torque at 400+ ft-lbs. This is where you should think about step up options. At 1400 ft-lbs of breaking torque and a price of around $250 Milwaukee is hands down the wrench of choice. Nobody else has anything close right now. And it saves you $100 if you can buy the bare tool and not invest in another set of batteries and charger. And it's still 1/2" so you can use it with your 1/2" sockets until you have to step up to 3/4 or 1" just due to availability. So I'd look at the options on the battery platform. This eliminates the Ridgid outright. Might make sense to keep the Dewalt investment until it dies but if you're going to all new, Milwaukee makes the most sense. In terms of grinders and other tools you will quickly accumulate Dewalt and Milwaukee serve you well but again Richie is just too limited. So when picking a battery platform look at the overall picture, not just the tool you need now but others you will need as well. This kind of usually cuts it down to Makita (especially for linemen), Dewalt, or Milwaukee for mechanics, plumbers, and electricians. Carpenters have a lot more options. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  6. Basics like impact sockets are OK. It's positioning. At one time Craftsman was a premium brand at a midrange price. Sears converted it into a cheap house brand. SBD has several brands (Stanley, Black and Decker, Craftsman, Dewalt, Porter Cable, etc., etc.). They've always kind of positioned things like a good/better/best with Dewalt as premium. People seem to want the old Craftsman discount premium line but the problem with this is that it cannabalizes Dewalt sales if you can buy the Dewalt in red instead of yellow. And they paid good money for the name so by definition it has to be marketed as a midrange brand. That being said why buy Craftsman if you can afford Dewalt and you're on your tools every day. If you're a homeowner though and you want something better than HF grade at a reasonable step up price that's the sweet spot for Craftsman. It's not intended to capture pros unless they're hard up for money to spend on tools or buying something one time use. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  7. Yesterday
  8. Milwaukee needs to get the bugs out of their forward / Rev switch with on their 18v impact. My one key which gets very little use has been sent back once, and my Surge will be going back for its 3rd repair. Oddly I have never had any issues with my 1st gen 18v impact
  9. I have been introducing more red into my shop but not because I am disappointed with yellow, just that Milwaukee has some specialty tools that I really want and their quality has picked up from where it used to be. I’ve got the transfer pump and it is honestly my most used Milwaukee tool hands down with the new chainsaw coming in a close second.
  10. SBD is building a new plant in the DFW area, I suspect once they get the Craftsman line launched, and the new plant opens, that we might see some more resources go to Dewalt. I am with you, SBD seems to have noticeably slowed down their innovation of new tools for Dewalt over the last year or so. It even seems like they are running a LOT fewer specials on Home Depot and Lowes. Outside of the basic intro 2/5/7/9 piece tool combos along with the "atomic" intro. Kinda disappointed to be honest.
  11. I seem to be more interested in m12 as of late. I got the stapler and coat awhile back but recently got the 3/8 stubby and that new installation driver looks like something I will get. Might even try out the m12 surge. I wish DeWALT would bring back their version of NPS but seems unlikely with Craftsman around. DeWALT has been slower than normal the last couple years.
  12. yeah, i wish SBD would quit wasting resources on craftsman. not sure who they're trying to appeal that brand to. pros wont buy it.
  13. Hey guys, newbie to the forums here, I'm seeking advice. For the past 8 years or so, I've had a handful of Dewalt 18v tools for home use. I recently started a job that required me to supply my own tools, so I brought the impact driver and wrench to work. For the most part, the driver with a socket adapter has been enough for my needs and a much more convenient size. The problem is, I'm getting shipped off to the the pit (I'm servicing mining equipment in an open pit mine) rather than the shop, and the conditions are very dusty. From my understanding, brushless tools should be able to stand up to these conditions, which is why I need to change. Is this correct? The guy that is training me uses a mastercraft 1/2" sold at canadian tire which is rated at 160ft lbs and quite compact. I considered the same one, but I don't want to buy something that will let me down. It's mostly come down to a compact milwaukee (2755b) or mid torque dewalt (dcf894) My experiences with both manufacturers have been positive, and I like the other tools available by both. The 330 ft. Lbs on the dewalt is more torque than I should be needing, but I like that it can be used for bigger jobs if it comes down to it. I also like that dewalt seems to have more budget friendly options for some of the things I use at home. The main downside with either option is the rather hefty pricetag. Any thoughts between those 2? I was also eyeing up the ridgid one that home depot sells. I swear by ridgid for pipefitting tools, and am quite curious about their power tools. The price is amazing, which tells me the tool probably isn't great. Anybody have any experience with these?
  14. SBD has been innovating, except they put all their effort into the Craftsman line. Granted it's mostly rebranding like making T-staks in red instead of yellow. Hopefully they will get back to business as usual once the majority of the launch is over. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  15. Last week
  16. A strong competition is good for us, consumers. I hope Milwaukee gain a lot of users so Dewalt will get off their lazy butt and innovate.
  17. If I wasn't very deep and very happy in the Ridgid 18v platform I'd be in the Milwaukee line. My co-contractor buddy is a Milwaukee guy. Tell you what, the Milwaukee cordless table saw is REALLY impressive. I am into the Milwaukee 12v line though and I can't wait to get my hands on the new 12v Surge impact driver. A lot of great stuff coming out by all the manufacturers as of late. Great time to be a tool nut. Speaking of Dewalt, I put Dewalt's new cordless mud mixer in my hand today while at Home Depot. Man what a beast that thing is!
  18. i'm impressed with all the new tools milwaukee is coming out with.
  19. so back to the question Are DeWALT 40v tools and Greenworks 40v batteries compatible? Could also ask are Greenworks 40v tools compatible with DeWALT 40v batteries?
  20. The M18 Surge and the newly introduced M12 Surge both have a 450in/lb rating.
  21. The voltage would be measured at the tool, I doubt the resistance between two chain saws would be all that much. the internal resistance to the battery wouldnt have much impact because you are delivering double the voltage hence square of the power. There would be very little to no voltage drop within the battery, because there just isn't going to be much resistance between cells, regardless of rather they are in series or not. The mount of work you care about would be at the output of the tool, not within the battery. (BTW, it would take more resistance to wire up something in parallel vs something in series all things being equal.)
  22. What vibration? That's where the Surge idea kind of fails. The vibration of an impact is very little on current designs unless you're running all day then even with the Surge use impact gloves. Second sure it's quieter but quieter than what saw/hammer on the job site? Ear plugs aren't just for impacts. It's an interesting concept and that's why it's a good item to sell but so far we've passed on it in favor of torque per dollar or whatever you want to call it in my crew. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  23. Your assumption of fixed resistance is off because you have to factor in series resistance which if all cells are the same internal resistance, 60 V means 33% more series resistance so the current decreases by that amount, leaving you with roughly similar performance. Then there's the issue of voltage drop proportional to square of current so you can quickly see why something as simple as P=VI is not simple at all. Hence Milwaukee for instance has stayed with 18 V batteries where Dewalt goes up to 56 on a FlexVolt but hasn't so far had a vastly superior advantage, never mind say Kobalt 24 V. Then we can really confuse things when you realize brushless commutation means the rotors are DC with an AC rectifier feeding them and often synchronous so the fields are actually AC. A DC to AC converter as well as DC to DC can easily increase or decrease the voltage in the process so motor voltage is independent of battery voltage and hence the higher voltages play off losses in the wiring (IxIxR) against increased battery series resistance. Hence no easy relationships where voltage is definitive. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  24. I happened to get a great "Deal". I ordered a Milwaukee 2604-22CT on amazon at its retail price. Its a hammer drill kit with 2x 2 amp hour batteries. Well they sent me Milwaukee 2604-22, Which has 2x 4 amp hour batteries instead. No complaints.
  25. Probably something like that for legal purposes etc I'm not worried
  26. I purchased the Milwaukee 2604-22 kit, Comes with the hammer drill, 2 of the 4 amp hour batteries and a charger. I purchased brand new, So i opened it and i noticed both batteries were dead (single led blinking) and none would turn the chuck, but the led work light came on. I charged one fully and when i tried the drill it was the same deal, Only the work light came on, Battery was full and was not even warm. Frustrated i charged the other only to find the same issue. I had an idea to turn the flywheel while holding the trigger, It did nothing... So i tried turning it and then pressing the trigger, When i did it that was it would run for a brief second before stopping and only the light on, I kept doing it until the drill finally pulled through and started chooching. When i put a load on it it stopped 2 more times and it hasn't again, Only used it in my 9h work shift though so time will tell. So im wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and any ideas on what may be the cause? Would it be the drill, or the batteries due to possibly being dead so long, Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. (This is my first tool from the red side)
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