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I have a Ryobi One+ R18CS circular saw (standard blade - 165mm, thin kerf, 16mm bore, 24 tooth blade) I am intending to cut quite a lot of melamine faced board (wardrobe doors and drawer faces). I have been told that for a good finish I need to get a 60-72 tooth cross cut blade. Ryobi do not seem to do one. Can you advise me who's blade is best and would fit? [There seem to be many blade suppliers, but I am assuming many will be poor quality/short life, but do not know which are not!]. Thank for any advice.

I have a Ryobi One+ R18CS circular saw (standard blade - 165mm, thin kerf, 16mm bore, 24 tooth blade) I am intending to cut quite a lot of melamine faced board (wardrobe doors and drawer faces). I have been told that for a good finish I need to get a 60-72 tooth cross cut blade. Ryobi do not seem to do one. Can you advise me who's blade is best and would fit? [There seem to be many blade suppliers, but I am assuming many will be poor quality/short life, but do not know which are not!]. Thank for any advice.

So for those of you who dont already know the Milwaukee tools that we buy in the USA are different then most of the rest of the world. When i say different i personally think ours are lacking in features. For example our fuel cases are red in the USA. Elsewhere they are black and much different. Our hand tools are red and theirs are red and black. This thread is about the Fuel circular saws. Below are pictures of our saws vs theirs, they have the ability to connect a hose and from the videos i have seen have almost zero dust (great for cutting indoors or just not having to clean up). There is Very Little info on any of this online, basically Zero info (this will be the first thread online with comparison pictures & info out there). I will be converting my new Milwaukee Fuel M18 circular saw (2730-20) into a CCS55 (this is what they call theirs). After a TON of searching, emails, phone calls, & becoming friends with a friends friend who lives in the UK who visits me each year... I have found a repair facility who will be sending me all the parts i need. I found out its more than just popping the other side on mine. It looks like it is going to cost be about $40 to do everything (not bad for the ability to use the saw normally or have the ability for dust collection). I know this is not for everyone, but for those of you interested, I hope this helps. Here is a side by side of the 2 saws (I will be converting mine from the one on left to right): Here is a side by side of the 2 kits (United States vs everyone else): This is the main difference a lot of people have been talking about, the better cases they have: Here are a few pics of their cases (refereed to as Dyna cases): ------------- Below are some of the pages I was told are ok to share from the scanned document: I will update this thread as i get more info and all the info & parts needed...

I just bought a Diablo 10" blade and noticed that the stabilizer "vents" are filled with some sort of plastic material. The vents are not open, i.e. can't see through them. I don't remember previous blades having this filler in the vents. I would think the material is just going to burn/melt when I use the blade. Has anyone else noticed this? Should I remove the material before using the vent? The instructions don't say anything about this. See pics. Thanks.

I have an oldie-but-goodie Porter Cable model 368-1 Type 2. I have tightened the arbor bolt as tight as I possible can (holding the inner nut with a wrench) but when I use the saw, the blade loosens up. I know the bolt is not too long, because I can get it to bottom out without the blade. I have attached pics of the saw and the arbor parts that I am using. Hopefully they are the correct ones. Is there some friction material I should be adding between the copper washer and the blade? Help! Thanks.

Hi, I basically don't know anything about power tools, so I need some help. I just got a jigsaw, the dewalt dcs331, and I'm having a tracking problem. I know jigsaw's aren't meant for cutting perfectly straight lines, but regardless, for almost every blade I have (a set of 6), each one has a tendency to pop up and to the left off the tracker. The tracker is on the back of the blade, and is simply a wheel with a groove. Even when I have a straight edge lined up with the foot of the saw, the blade still ends up veering left, and bending, making a slightly slanted line. Is there a way to adjust this? Reviews say that this is a very nice saw. Is this something that just happens with all jigsaws? One possible problem could be saw dust. It has gotten quite dusty, so I'll clean it out soon an see if that makes a difference. Any replies are greatly appreciated. This is the saw: http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-saws-jig-saws-dcs331b.aspx

Hey guys I need some tips on cutting come Faux wood blind valences (The top part that covers the head rail. I need to make a few 45degree angle cuts and some other straight ones. I just very slowly and gently tried to make some straight cuts on my table saw and it tore and chipped up the wood pretty bad. I was thinking of just doing the straight cuts with a hacksaw. But no idea how the hell I'll be able to do the angled cuts. Help!

Getting a 7 1/4 circular soon to try and build some furniture. I guess my first question is what wood I should use for a dining table? I realize that hardwoods are probably best for that but then again this is my first go, so should I go with something cheap like pine to learn first? If I do try to use something like oak or mahogany what blade should I use to cut it? I also realize I should probably use a table saw for that but I do not have access to one.

Edit/Update: I seem to have fixed it! Replaced 1 of the 2 screws holding the base on, tightened them (nut first then torx screw w/ washers), & used loc tite on them + tightened all screws on the tool. I was just at HD and saw a display Milwaukee Jigsaw on the clearance rack. normally $129 for tool only. I got it for $60! My question/issue is that the base place seems to be quite loose/wobbly... and the arm that you open and close to adjust the angle on the bottom plate is also super loose. you can open it just by turning to tool to that side. Should I return it and forget it ...or does anyone know how to fix this?