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I’m curious as to what everyone picked up this year and and got a really good deal. For me I was able to purchase a 12” dual bevel mitre saw from Skilsaw for $139.99 Suggested retail price @ 649.99 via CPO outlets

One of my previous videos had only the design and drawings of the lever metal bender. Now you can see how it works. I also made a mistake hopefully you will avoid... You can get pdf plans per request to my e-mail which is published in the video. Subscription to my youtube channel is here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpbzEfP3Rt5KhPHmJDyTggQ?sub_confirmation=1Thank you for your support.

Recently i stripped my treadmill, and i admit i dont know much about electrics, but diy and learning are two things i like most, i believe no questions a silly question, and i hope you do to, cause i have a few silly ones to ask you all Now ive been on a forums asking for advice, and im still a little lost, so thaught id come to a tool site to makesure im on the right track i have a DC motor Perm Magnet 1500w 230vac, i have the controller board, however its not in best shape, and id like to control its speed to make a lathe, /sand grinder etc il attach 2 videos of the motor, video 2 being clear and showing magnet restriction when wires connected. we have talked about triacs and bridge recifiers and alsorts, and the suggestion i have is DC motor a heavy duty light dimmer bridge rectifier and a ~100 - 250 uF capacitor (on the controller its 450-470 uf capacitor, but i dont know if thats for the whole machine, or where this awesome guy who helped me got numbers from, ive seen a few controllers that i think would work.... but im worried im gona blow the motor or me or waste money on the wrong thing, im hoping, you guys can confirm this is what you would do as im sure many of you here have done this. ive emailed reebok as i cant find anything online to give me full spec of the motor, not sure what i need to match up tbh.. there is vdc..vac ...volt,,watts... ive no idea i learnt the laws on Vac, and im reading other things but its confusing at time, i learn on practical alot, and i cant get in there n look so im finding it hard lol http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CEBEK-R-10-230V-MOTOR-SPEED-CONTROLLER-1500W-/131648839032?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 i find things like this.. but im still stuck as to how to make it hit the god damn wall lol, if you dont do u dont learn, if people stop when they get stuck and give up, noting would get done, so abuse me asmuch as you like i love salt and i dont mind the banter, im a pleb and im proud! nah honestly thansk for taking the time to read this i sure your feeling my pain after trying to decipher my text

Now im just using it for diy stuff like mowing,woodworking,painting, and pesticides maybe. I cant seem to figure out why you wouldnt wear a full mask everytime, if things can hurt your insides cant they hurt your eyes too when u just wear some safety glasses? By the way i have pretty bad allergies too. My first post!! ty 4 reading

I wanted to make a couple chairs for the outdoor firepit and I did not want to spend any money. This is my first one. I went with an Adirondack styled chair. You may notice the free floating armrests. I wanted to use the stud pieces of the pallets for armrests and they weren't quite long enough. What I ended up doing was use a few metal brackets I had to secure them to the front posts. This could have turned out a lot better but I didn't want to spend much time on it. Dollar wise, I am just out the cost of screws and metal brackets, which I already had.

I thought I would start this thread & keep updating it as I go, I really like seeing other peoples projects from start to finish. I also thought since this is my first time doing this alone, i would ask questions here when i get stuck. I live in a 4 bedroom 3 bath house w/ a 2.5 car garage. Only 2 of the 4 walls have drywall (ones touching the inside of the house) & it has bothered me for a while now (I spend a lot of time in the garage). This was a weird project from the start b/c my walls are not OSB or plywood, they are rare for my area & style of house ... solid gypsum board. Took me a while to learn this, I have a thread about the walls a while back on here about it, you can also see the original pics of the garage there too -- http://bit.ly/2bqYi57 So far, i have used foam and caulk in places that there were holes in the gypsum, around the 2x4's where there were gaps, around the receptacles, and a variety of other places I tough air could come thru. I then found a good deal on some R-13 rolls at HD that were bonus rolls w/ extra in them. I have used 2 rolls so far for this wall. looks like it will take about 1 more to finish this one... I have some questions which i will post in the 2nd post here after the pictures below...

ok guys i had to share this haha. I am not gonna tell you why i thought it was so funny/pathetic but let me know if you also notice, maybe its just me ...white vinyl wiring. This is recorded from the show Rehab Addict. She is the host and the CEO of the company... She has a show on TV and claims online she does and knows how to do almost all the work.... amazing! You might have to turn up your volume up a little... Here is the link to the video: https://youtu.be/OyZP8Exmwrc

Some "shop talk" for my fellow tradesmen, DIYers, and others interested in the important exterior details. Question/Proposition If caulking the bottom edges of lap siding and frieze board is a no-no, shouldn't the same apply to the fascia-to-soffit connection in a wood-constructed eave? Argument/Reasoning I've seen many good painters and builders caulk these areas and it always makes me pause, shake my head, and propose this very argument. In my mind, ventilation and drainage take precedent: the same reason we don't caulk the bottom edges of lap siding. And if moisture build-up and water infiltration can occur behind the gable wall, it certainly can get inside the overhang via roofing failures, gutter overflow, pressure washing, ice dams, etc. (For this same reason, years ago I changed my approach to fascia trim treatment after installs: never caulk the underside of the fascia trim where it overlaps the fascia — gutters or none.) One might say, "If soffit vents are installed, then your eves are getting plenty of ventilation." And I'd reply, "That may solve the ventilation issue, but not the drainage issue." If it's a continuous soffit-vent installed at the fascia-to-soffit joint, and the soffit was installed at a slight angle toward the fascia, then you may have your solution; in which case, this talk about caulking would be irrelevant. But, most homes do not have both (1) continuous soffit-vents at the fascia joint and (2) soffits installed at a slight angle toward the fascia. It may seem a bit trivial, or overkill, to grind out these details, but I've seen way too many cases of wood-rot and mold as a result of poor ventilation and drainage. And it usually stemmed from unnecessary, overzealous caulking and foaming. Now, I understand the "aesthetics" argument for caulking these areas before painting. You don't want the crack to show in case someone looks behind the fascia. But there are alternatives to totally sealing the joint. Solution/Aesthetics-fix If the homeowner decides the soffit-to-fascia joint is unsightly without caulk, then offer to install a tiny quarter-round molding or other tiny trim which would allow for ventilation and drainage. If the homeowner still insists on caulk instead, be sure they know the potential hazards before proceeding. Just. In. Case. And if the joint was already caulked by the previous painter or builder, then inform the homeowner of the potential dangers and preventative options. I certainly haven't covered every possible scenario pertaining to eave maintenance, and I'm well aware that an unsealed soffit-to-fascia joint isn't exactly the end-all in case of a roof leak over the soffit. But I'm confident that I'm technically correct here. If I'm not, then I'd be grateful to anyone who can shed some light on where I may have faltered. Thanks.

I've been working on this kitchen island for the girlfriend and documented my progress (video link). I don't have all the measurements of every cut or the size of every bit/screw but thought it would be cool to share on here. It still needs a cabinet for the front. This project took me forever because I don't have a lot of free time to work on this and I live in an apartment complex with a small patio as a workspace. I do like taking on new projects, though, because that gives me an excuse to acquire some more tools! Anyways check out the video if you're bored with nothing else to do. Power Tools used: Milwaukee m18 drill driver - 2601 Milwaukee m18 impact - 2650 Milwaukee m12 drill driver - 2407 (bought this with the hackzall as a combo kit at Home Depot for $100!) Milwaukee m12 Hackzall - 2420 Milwaukee m12 Compact Vacuum - 0850 Milwaukee 5" Random Orbit Sander - 6021 Video Link: https://youtu.be/0Awu1rbmV9c

I was wondering how cheap i could make a functioning cnc router. I was debating about using an arduino uno (clones for about $1, Original for about $35) and some ebay H-bridge chips to control large dc motors that i have gotten for free out of old drills and recip saws. Using some hardware store threaded rod and nuts as well as copper pipe and some pipe couplers for the bushings. The copper pipe may be one of the most sturdy and cheap ways of linear motion. Utilizing a dremel or similar for a spindle or even a brush less quadcopter motor.

Just saw this posted and I wanted to share. DREMEL has just released a $999 3D printer - " Dremel 3D Idea Builder " and is being sold by Home Depot. An in-depth review would be a cool TIA segment. Lets get TIA a 3D printer, really just because I want to play with it, http://3dprinter.dremel.com/ http://makezine.com/2014/09/17/dremel-3d-printer-idea-builder/