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Showing results for tags 'makita'.
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Hi, exists any module / hack how to integrate soft start functionality to the mitre saw Makita MLS100N? Thank you so so much :)
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I bought a 10.8v Makita Driver last week and while its been great (& compact) for light work... It has since proven inadequate. I'm going to mount a bike rack to a concrete column & some tensile cables to hang curtains (don't judge me...) into concrete & the 10.8v is not up to the job. The sales guy informs me that a 12v with hammer action in the same size will be in tomorrow, but TBH, I'm better off with an 18v. Most of my needs are around assembling furniture and mounting stuff to walls, but I need one drill that can do everything... What's the consensus on the Makita DHP482? It's not brushless & I believe it only comes with one battery (3ah), but I'm an occasional user, so not putting it under much pressure. Don't focus on the price... The market is limited where I live, so we don't have much options. Also, I have to buy from Ace, because I need to return the last drill. It does come with a decent set of bits... I suppose the other option is DeWalt. https://www.aceuae.com/en/ace-uae/makita-dhp482-hammer-drill-driver--75-drill-bits-969480#pdp_box_img_1[pp_gal]/0/
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Cordless brands have had ups and downs over the years, with some such as Flex being new to the US market while others like Porter Cable seem to be on life support. What is your favorite brand right now?
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New to forum, seeking answer to problem with Makita X2 LXT 10" cordless compound miter saw. Have been working with tool for almost a year, have put it through its paces and cut all kinds of bevels with it. Today it got stuck at 22.5 degress (right side) and I can't get it to budge. I suspect the lock release button is somehow broken or jammed. I took off the back plastic housing hoping to get at it, but it turns out I'd have to do more disassembly to access it. Has anyone had this problem? I've been deep Team Blue for ten years but this is causing me to reconsider my loyalties. Brought my job to a screeching halt today. I'm at a remote off-grid site and can manage with workarounds but I'd rather fix the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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I recently purchased a Makita RW01R1 12V cordless ratchet and i love the tool. However i have an issue with my direction switch. It tends to pop into the middle setting when using to remove or install a fastener ( motor will keep running but head wont turn until i pop the switch back into place). Normally this wouldn't be an issue but on a lock tighted or rusty fastener, the direction switch will pop to the middle 4 or 5 times before the fastener is fully removed or installed . Does anyone else have this problem? If so what is the fix? -
Hello, so i recently bought a cordless makita combo kit ( impact driver and drill driver) and while i was using the drill driver at work i noticed something odd, when tightening drill bits the chuck seems to click after it has been tightened? Is this normal or is there something wrong? Sometimes it would click/spin quarter turn multiple times after being fully tightened. There has been times were the drill bits have fallen out(chuck loosened by its self) Would appreciate any help
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I would like to share my impression in this Makita toolbox P-90532 . It’s really one of the best on the market with really perfect ratio quality-price. The toolbox 🧰 Makita -90532 has inside the incredible number of pieces 227.
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I'm looking at investing in a cordless vacuum cleaner and I like the idea of the AC mix with 36v option is a good idea but what would be even better is if it was AWS as well. has anyone looked at how to add AWS compatibility to tools using the pass through plug they sell for corded vacuums?? I'd appreciate any help or advice anyone in the group might have
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What is the best tool platform. Debatable but manufactures have there strengths and unfortunatlly have there weaknesses I perfer Makita, Dewalt etc what do you perfer and what are your opinions.
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Does anyone know what kind of cells do Makita batteries use? I noticed the 4ah battery has the text 5INR19/65-2 text printed on it and the 5ah has 5INR19/66-2. What does that mean? And some say "Made in vietnam", others "Cell made in Singapore. Pack processed in China". What does pack processing mean? Is China bad? And can we find out how many cycles did a battery complete, like on milwaukee?
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Hi, I have a Makita HP1621F which is a keyless 1/2” hammer drill. It’s a nice drill, but the chuck has finally failed on me. It will tighten, but after a few minutes use it loosens. First question: does this mean I need to replace just the chuck or might the problem instead/also be with the spindle, compression spring, ball bearing, retaining ring or helical gear, all of which have a bearing on the chuck (see the parts diagram at: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-hp1621f-hammer-drill-parts-c-97_16247_1585.html) I’d hate to throw it away for want of a chuck. Unfortunately, the Makita replacement chuck, even on eBay is pricey ($50 new). I don’t want to spend a lot of money on a new part for an old tool which itself has an uncertain life. It’s only worth getting a replacement chuck for not too much money. So, I’m wondering if any forum readers could suggest an OEM or other chuck that would work in my Makita HP1621F. Note: the description on the drill itself, describes the drill as a 5/8" drill. However, all the descriptions of the drill I've ever seen (on eBay, for example) list it as a 1/2" hammer drill. The Makita replacement chuck is Part Number: 763192-3. My thanks in advance for your suggestions and help. I will very much appreciate them.
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This is my Makita TD171DB from Japan. I have enjoyed it a lot so far (1 month). I have had the makita xdt13 impact driver for almost a year now and love it so much that when i found out these existed i went and got one. The TD171D incudes the following 4 Speed modes: 1 -- [ 0-1100 rpm & 0-1100 ipm ] 2 -- [ 0-2100 rpm & 0-2600 ipm ] 3 -- [ 0-3200 rpm & 0-3600 ipm ] 4 -- [ 0-3600 rpm & 0-3800 ipm ] 1600 in/lbs max torque The 4 assist modes include: 1 for entering wood, this mode starts slow until it you get into the wood a thread or two then it ramps up and blasts her home, impacts and all.There are two assist modes for self tapping screws. T1 for tapping into thin sheet metal, this mode avoids over tightening and "stripping out" a fastener into thin meta. T2 tapping assist mode is for thick metal and starts with high rpm and no impacts to get the drilling started and then blasts her home with all the fixins'. The other assist mode is for tightening and loosening nuts on bolts and stops the nut just short of coming off of the threads so you don't shoot a nut across the shop. You can also scroll through the speed modes with the button located above the trigger where the LEDs' are located on other models. The lights can be turned into off mode on the control panel located at the base of the handle. The assist modes and speed modes can also be accessed on this control panel.This panel is also used with the new button to save an assist mode and a speed mode so that you can switch between modes while working with only the hand already operating the impact driver (i actually find this quite handy). An interesting feature is the rubber collar (idk what to call it) around the business end, just after the 1/4" hex drive, is glow in the dark. this driver also features dual bearings at the business end to mitigate bit wobble. The thing is tiny its smaller than my hand if I make a fist, like a lot smaller. The side mounted lights are an awesome feature, no more fastener shadow 98% of the time. I do electrical work in a variety of climates and conditions, these makitas put up with it really well so far.
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I have a Makita HS7601 circular saw, currently with a 190mm blade for cutting wood. Can I replace this with a diamond masonry blade for cutting stone ? If so, can anyone recommend such blade to purchase?
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Is the voltage a good indicator of battery life? I tested one fully charged 3Ah battery and it showed 19.5V. Another fully charged 5Ah battery showed 19.9V. I don't have a new one to test but I think the "normal" voltage should stay at 4.2 * 5 = 21V. Right?
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Sharpening experiment for the blade on my Makita Metal cutting circ saw... and it worked!
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Hi everybody, I ve a Makita ELM 3800 which suddenly stopped and refuses to start up. I 've checked the interior and there isn't any capacitor just the coil. What should i check ? Thanks
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I bought a used Makita belt sander because I needed to do heavy sanding on a large wood table. Model 9911, 650 W. It seems to take much more material than the random orbital sander, but still it doesn't feel like it has enough power on lower speeds. If select lower speeds and push a bit harder on the sander, the motor sounds like it is struggling and eventually stops. Is this normal for 650W belt sanders, or do I need to repair it?
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I have the DF030D, and I really like it....but, I seem to keep stripping something (the clutch?).Everything was going fine, and suddenly the drill had no torque, and just kept ratcheting under resistance. Is this a known problem with this model? Did I do something wrong to cause it to breakdown? any help would be appreciated. Thks
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Hello, I am thinking about investing in a new OPE battery platform. After having spent countless hours reading reviews, watching videos and comparing stuff, I came to the conclusion that the EGO product line would be a solid choice. If I were living in the US, I'd probably be on my way to the local DIY store to purchase the complete tool range. However, here in western Europe, EGO products are a bit harder to come by, they are a recent addition to the market and, more importantly, they are priced surprisingly high in comparison to the US. Put simply, we need to pay a lot more for less. As an example, the typical 190-200$ EGO ST-1500 trimmer would cost you about 240 EUR (~280 USD) and that's only for the bare tool without the kitted 2.5AH battery and charger. The LM2102E-SP mower with 7.5AH battery is about 950-1000 EUR, not doing the math but we understand it's a lot more than 600$, my dad paid this much for a Honda HRX mower. I have compared prices from various stores in Switzerland, France, and Germany, I checked SP-mowers, trimmers and blowers, EGO tools price tag seems to be 180% or 200% higher in Europe, except for the batteries which cost more or less the same. Granted, it's not always fair to compare prices across countries based on the currency exchange rate, but it may be legitimate to ask if EGO products can still be considered great value for money with their cost being above (or at least on par with) well-established brands such as Husqvarna, Stihl or even Makita? There is no easy answer I guess, what's your opinion on this? PS: I am not a native english speaker so please forgive eventual typos or weird grammar.
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Hi I am going to order Makita DHS680Z. I would like to have a guide rail as well, I am going to use it for different purposes. I was wondering if Makita SP6000K1 is compatible with DHS680Z? Thanks
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Makita has an interesting battery adapter with a DC plug output. Model number is PE00000028 and it appears to be used by the Makita heated jacket. I was thinking I could use it to power some small electronics, like a soldering iron that accepts a 5.5 mm DC plug and up to 24V. But I can't find anywhere the specs for it. Like what's the output voltage through that plug, and max amp draw, and maybe the type of plug. Does anyone here have the heated jacket with this adapter? Maybe they are printed on it on the other side? Another idea I had is to get this cheap USB adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2A-Blue-Battery-Dual-USB-Charger-Adapter-Tools-for-Makita-BL1830-1430-Adapter/282546633419 Then extract it contents and attach to it my own wires and plug. What do you think?
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Why is it so expensive?? At least in Europe. The "normal" 240V AC rapid charger is like 40 euro, but the 12V car charger is over 100 euro! And why is it so big? Charging 3.7V batteries from 12V input shouldn't require complicated electronics. And what's up with the "Don't accelerate" sign? All the electronics that I run on the cigarette lighter work fine when i accelerate, but the Makita charger doesn't?!
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Does anybody know if the Makita "TD170" impact drivers that are floating around on ebay are real and the same as DTD170 ? Also, there's a newer TD171 model, sold the same way... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Makita-TD171DZB-Impact-Driver-18V-2018-Latest-Model-ONLY-BODY-Black-Free-Ship/162921330587 Are they real, genuine, or different from the "official" models in any way? I see they are sold in many weird color options, like red, black, pink, green...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-TD170DZ-impact-driver-pink-TD170DZP-18V-body-only-made-in-japan-New/222601254746
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I’m a big fan of team teal and recently came across this hat online. Anyone happen to have one they would sell? https://www.etsy.com/listing/564812209/vintage-90s-makita-power-tools-black?show_sold_out_detail=1
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Hey, Seeing some new makita impactx bits on the website. How are these different from the impact gold? step up, step down? How do they compare?
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