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Showing results for tags 'saw'.
Found 16 results
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I’m finishing an overseas tour in S. Korea where manufacturing is common and cheap. There’s a bag manufacturer here that has agreed to produce a carry bag for the 102” tracksaw guide rail at $110 per bag. I should have the initial prototype in 2-3 weeks. It’s designed to hold one rail on each side with a soft padded fabric on the inside. DeWalt logo embroidered on the outside, or anything else as desired. Extra pocket on the outside for clamps and a loose piece of fabric in the center to separate the rails from rubbing. Anyone interested in padded protection for their long guide rails? I don’t think that I’ll make this a business, but I could do a limited production run based on interest.
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I have a Ryobi One+ R18CS circular saw (standard blade - 165mm, thin kerf, 16mm bore, 24 tooth blade) I am intending to cut quite a lot of melamine faced board (wardrobe doors and drawer faces). I have been told that for a good finish I need to get a 60-72 tooth cross cut blade. Ryobi do not seem to do one. Can you advise me who's blade is best and would fit? [There seem to be many blade suppliers, but I am assuming many will be poor quality/short life, but do not know which are not!]. Thank for any advice.
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So for those of you who dont already know the Milwaukee tools that we buy in the USA are different then most of the rest of the world. When i say different i personally think ours are lacking in features. For example our fuel cases are red in the USA. Elsewhere they are black and much different. Our hand tools are red and theirs are red and black. This thread is about the Fuel circular saws. Below are pictures of our saws vs theirs, they have the ability to connect a hose and from the videos i have seen have almost zero dust (great for cutting indoors or just not having to clean up). There is Very Little info on any of this online, basically Zero info (this will be the first thread online with comparison pictures & info out there). I will be converting my new Milwaukee Fuel M18 circular saw (2730-20) into a CCS55 (this is what they call theirs). After a TON of searching, emails, phone calls, & becoming friends with a friends friend who lives in the UK who visits me each year... I have found a repair facility who will be sending me all the parts i need. I found out its more than just popping the other side on mine. It looks like it is going to cost be about $40 to do everything (not bad for the ability to use the saw normally or have the ability for dust collection). I know this is not for everyone, but for those of you interested, I hope this helps. Here is a side by side of the 2 saws (I will be converting mine from the one on left to right): Here is a side by side of the 2 kits (United States vs everyone else): This is the main difference a lot of people have been talking about, the better cases they have: Here are a few pics of their cases (refereed to as Dyna cases): ------------- Below are some of the pages I was told are ok to share from the scanned document: I will update this thread as i get more info and all the info & parts needed...
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEWALT-20V-MAX-6-1-2-inch-Circular-Saw-Laser-Level-Cut-Line-Marker-Attachment-/144156386953?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
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I'm pretty sure I could figure it out, but if anybody has the fast track on R&R the laser on a Ryobi TSS101L Miter saw, it would probably save me some time and effort...
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Hello all, I’m after your friendly professional opinion here, I’ve recenty bought a Makita LS1018l Compound Mitre Saw, as recent as a week ago to be exact. the saw has had about 20 mins total run time since I’ve had, from new. I was cutting widths on a 4x4 yesterday to cut out a mortise and had it running for around 3 minutes off and on, off and on for around 10 seconds each time and smoke appeared out of the motor vents and it stunk. Now it won’t turn back on, even after cooling down as that was my initial thought, so I checked out the brushes and they look like this. do I need new brushes or is it something more serious? Thanks and sorry for the long rant over something very basic but I’m fairly new to this type of power tool 👍👍
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I have a Makita HS7601 circular saw, currently with a 190mm blade for cutting wood. Can I replace this with a diamond masonry blade for cutting stone ? If so, can anyone recommend such blade to purchase?
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Hello all, this is my first post and I work at Lenox in East Longmeadow, MA as a bandsaw welder. Just looking to see how many of you have used Lenox blades (be it bandsaw, circular, recip, holesaw, utility, etc.) And what your thoughts are on our products? Note: i am asking this for my own personal curiosity, not on behalf of the company.
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I am a newbie in the whole tool/construction thing, while i have worked for others briefly in construction i am by no means an expert, but i am mechanically inclined which is, well enough to figure out stuff. I recently finished replacing a 20 ft section of my yard fence. Used a circular saw to do all the cutting needed, the saw wasn't mine, and now that it's gone i kind of feel i need one. Money is not an issue this time, i am starting to conduct a little bit of a professional handyman practice which led me to look at two saws, because it's going to be a main first saw, i need it to be cordless. I am already invested on DeWalt's platform so. Dewalt Flexvolt Circular Saw. Dewalt Flexvolt Table Saw. The Circular saw is hands down the most portable, but i don't find the flexvolt table saw terrible to move and well, easier to operate, so money not being a restriction, is there ANYTHING one can do that the other can't and viceversa? Am i crazy for considering a table saw as my first main saw, even saw if i decide to take it to a fence construction project? Thank you!
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I have an oldie-but-goodie Porter Cable model 368-1 Type 2. I have tightened the arbor bolt as tight as I possible can (holding the inner nut with a wrench) but when I use the saw, the blade loosens up. I know the bolt is not too long, because I can get it to bottom out without the blade. I have attached pics of the saw and the arbor parts that I am using. Hopefully they are the correct ones. Is there some friction material I should be adding between the copper washer and the blade? Help! Thanks.
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What a tool, but with a price to match.
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What do you guys think of these? I am not talking about the nice ones that come with special nice setups like the Dewalt track saw or Festool, but rather ones that are universal. For example I have a Milwaukee jigsaw & fuel circular saw and they don't make any tracks that work with either well as far as i have seen. Are any of the ones like these E. Emerson Tool Co. one's any good? I saw these and they looked nice for the price & come in variety of sizes. Also looks like they come in different track styles -- CLICK HERE - link to a bunch of them
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Edit/Update: I seem to have fixed it! Replaced 1 of the 2 screws holding the base on, tightened them (nut first then torx screw w/ washers), & used loc tite on them + tightened all screws on the tool. I was just at HD and saw a display Milwaukee Jigsaw on the clearance rack. normally $129 for tool only. I got it for $60! My question/issue is that the base place seems to be quite loose/wobbly... and the arm that you open and close to adjust the angle on the bottom plate is also super loose. you can open it just by turning to tool to that side. Should I return it and forget it ...or does anyone know how to fix this?
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Hey guys, a have some doubts, a friend are selling a used Dewalt DE367 circular saw and a new Skilsaw 5380 circular saw, what is a better purchase, a Dewalt or Skil? I use to making forniture and others things.
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Has anyone tried the Makita worm drive saw? I have a side winder currently, but I am looking to add a worm drive at some point. I just noticed that Makita has a decent price at HD, so I thought I would ask around. Thanks, FB82
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I think that is the right location to show you guys my new item. here is my new barrel-grip jig saw in a lboxx2 Bosch JS527EBL
