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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I agree wholeheartedly. That article and other sources I've read make Gass seem like a blowhard who is putting personal interests before people's safety. It's great that he designed such a safe saw, and completely understandable that he wants some form of compensation, but as someone who long ago put his country ahead of personal gain (admittedly, though, the Army has helped me out tremendously) I cannot understand why he insists on pushing for this technology to become mandatory, thereby establishing that monopoly you speak of. Maybe this is why I'll never earn a large salary, but I'd rather make a decent living and be known for helping keep others safe than trying to ensure legislation fattens my pockets under the guise of helping a few people (many of whom are improperly trained or lack/disable safety features) keep their fingers.
  2. 2 points
    It's just ridiculous to me to be creating a legal monopoly like that. If they require it on every saw, and simultaneously won't let anyone but sawstop sell it in the US. The writer of the article makes it sounds like cutting fingers off is an inevitability. Like every time we turn on a saw we're all in tears knowing that we can't just cut wood we have to cut fingers off too but we just keep cutting wood and appendages because big bad capitalist pigs running the evil collusion of table saw manufacturers are getting off by not giving us access to the one and only thing that will ever let us cut something safely. Accidents do happen, but in the same crowd that's buying table saw there's all of us that are pinning guards back on skilsaws. That's like the stupidest thing that a guy can do, but we do it anyway to save us a second even though we know we're probably going to lose something doing it sooner or later. What's next are they going to legally require flesh sensing tech in any and every cutting tool? I know that this wouldn't be the only instance of a safety device that can legally only be made or licensed from one company being required by law, but I still feel it's bullshit. [/Rant]
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    18650 powered lantern with IP64 rating, max 350 lumens, magnetic base, USB chargeable, 3 white modes and 2 red light modes (to keep the bugs away). Only $13 AUD on ebay delivered from China! I've also ordered a slightly bigger version that can use either a 18650 or 26650, has 400 lumens and a compass on top. It also has an extra USB out port to charge phones etc. Only $15 AUD! These are so cheap I will start modding them. A caribiner clip and some magnets on the sides for starters, and perhaps a cover so I can have 180 degree lighting when preferred. I actually sold my Bosch 12V DeciLED to get these lanterns. That light was amazing but too bright. I was also considering getting into Milwaukee for their lighting options but I'm finding far cheaper options on ebay. I think the M12 lantern is $70 AUD alone.
  5. 1 point
    I'll never own a Sawstop saw. I think the technology is great, but Gass is a piece of shit. He's been trying to get any government entity he can to require his patented technology. He started in California a couple years back and he's been at it ever since. When his patent runs out I may embrace the technology, but until that happens, he. An kiss my ass.
  6. 1 point
    The final noteworthy addition was the Rockler Drill Press Fence. I was really torn on what to do for a fence. My Jet JDP-17 already has the oversized woodworking table. That, combined with the fact that I do also drill metal, made me somewhat reluctant to go with a typical laminate woodworking table, and there weren't a whole lot of good fence only options. The Rockler fence ended up working out great, though I did have to drill holes to match up with the T-Slots. I'm also glad I spent the extra $14 for the long handles.
  7. 1 point
    Upgraded my planer stand recently too. The planer was my dad's and had a rudimentary table he cobbled together with scrap wood. It was almost impossible to move. So, I put a new set of blades and a dedicated planer stand on it. It's not nearly as big a pain in the ass to use now.
  8. 1 point
    Also picked up the Kreg Accu-Cut. I had to remove the blade guard an my Fuel Circ saw to make it work right, but performance wise it was well worth it's price. I bought the optional clamps because I was leery of the tacky strips being able to secure it, but I've been wiping them off after each use and so far so good. I definitely think you're going to want to dedicate a saw for use with it, but most of us have multiple circ saws anyway.
  9. 1 point
    Should be the other way around. Worldwide, all should be forced to market nominal voltage. 10.8V, 18V, 21.6V, 36V, 50.4V, 54V, 72V. Multiples of 3.6V. Everything else is marketing bullshit.
  10. 1 point
    Fuck Gass. Fuck the guy who wrote that article.
  11. 1 point
    Agreed, Hitachi miters are fantastic. As for the money, heck even for 2x the cost your hard pressed to find one better.
  12. 1 point
    The Hitachi 12" slider is such a good saw especially for the price. I ended up selling mine for the Bosch glide saw. I wouldn't say I moved up but went sideways with it. I love my Bosch and I got it for a great price but the Hitachi is severely underrated. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  13. 1 point
    for the money I think the hitachi cant be beat
  14. 1 point
    Now I know how to compliment you. You bought him this, right? I was in Lowe's yesterday looking at table saws for no good reason. I have a bad reason: I discovered my adjustable dado is too thick for the arbor of my Porter Cable table saw. I've had the P-C for several years but this is the first time I needed to dado on it. I ordered a more conventional dado set, and if it fits, that's good, but if it doesn't, I may need to change saws. The Porter Cable table saw Lowe's sells now looks like a toy compared to the one I have, but they have a really nice Hitachi: For $350 it seems to have all the features of the $500 DeWalt that was sitting next to it. The downside of both the DeWalt and the Hitachi is the stand. I leave my saw set up all the time and just roll it under the workbench when I'm not using it; the workbench is designed with a spot for the saw. But that only works with a stand that has wheels on the ground like my current saw or your dad's new Kobalt.
  15. 1 point
    This is so wrong on so many levels and with it being 7' up in the air in makes it more concerning. I can not tell from the picture is the ledger lagged or ledger locked to the house. Please don't say it just nailed to the house if so it's just and accident waiting to happen. My question would be how did this pass a framing inspection. Down load a copy of this. It is the wood Deck construction guide based on the international residential code. http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
  16. 1 point
    Ive done a little research on some of the hitachi's and the 12" will only miter up to 45 but the 10" will go to 52.5"
  17. 1 point
    I bought a 780 a while ago. It has a lot of great features, but the slides were abysmal and would get caught up when doing steep angle bevels. Thought there was something wrong with it, but checked two hd displays and they were both the same. If you are using it for framing and general carpentry work it's still a great saw, but not for high end carpentry. The kapex can't be beat as a trim saw, but it uses a 30mm arbor and the blades can get expensive, so I reserve for cabinets and high end trim jobs. It also really does not have the same capacity as most higher end 12s on the market, close, but not quite, and I want more capacity for framing. The 12in axial Bosch is my go too general purpose saw. Great for framing as well as trim, and I can throw a cheap blade on it for mdf, LSL's and prefinished floors if need be. My father in law is also a cabinet maker and has the 12in hitachi. I don't have too much time on it, but it's an incredible saw for the money, and it certainly seems capable of high end results.
  18. 1 point
    ? What u mean bevel and tilting ? Yes couldn't think of the word for the life of me ???
  19. 1 point
    Tilting? Bevel? that what you mean? @CATERPILLAR It is really easy to adjust to square, as well .. The only issue that i've had recently was a loose rail guide, but it just takes a little bit of adjusting: ..
  20. 1 point
    I would say Hitachi , bosch, makita. Have had a lot of experience with Hitachi's and makita not so much bosch . there are things to like and dislike about all them. Example the guard on the hitachi is an okay design but have had problems with it . very powerful and clean cut good 45 degree cuts and the tilting is good.
  21. 1 point
    Let's not confuse Hitachi as budget friendly for being cheap, IMO they are of the highest cut and build quality of saws twice the price and easily besting saws from DeWalt, Bosch and alike. Pair a Hitachi with a good blade and you can't go wrong.
  22. 1 point
    Hitachi. Just saying. The C10FSH is very nice for a more budget friendly saw. I can make it produce cuts as well as some of the nicer ones available, the only difference is it lacking features.. That being said, I would love to try some others, but this one has been the perfect saw for my use, with the right blade though... i would really like to try a CMT blade and get even nicer cuts from it
  23. 1 point
    My new black and white Hitachi triple hammers from Japan and my green north American edition
  24. 1 point
    Bit of an update. I got the blocks off pretty much by smashing them could only save two blocks but what can you do. After getting the blocks off I managed to run a line and get a proper reading the concrete is un-level by 210mm There is nothing worse than ripping out new material done wrong it such a waste of money!! In most places the concrete was 45mm Side note Iv been giving the Fatmax autolock a go and to be honest the autolock feature is not so great, Its holding power is very weak I much prefer the tried and true slide lock
  25. 1 point
    That makes sense, though every time that I've attached something to the side of a house, I've always gotten out the lag screws or concrete anchors.
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