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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/25/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    I had my first DeWalt battery failure a few weeks ago, a DCB204 with a date code of 05 47... Contacted DeWalt yesterday and just received an email stating that a new battery is on the way! Third time using the warranty and third time DeWalt has exceeded expectations.
  2. 3 points
    Like the FV string trimmer. Big battery, small charger. Probably to keep the price down for the homeowner buying his first FV tool. The gateway tool. Anybody that uses FV for a living already has several fast chargers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 3 points
    New house means new garage build. The first picture is my primary workbench Pegboard is from Wall Control The second picture is Barrina lights from Amazon. I think they are an amazing addition to the garage.
  4. 3 points
    Here you go boys. Excellent trigger response. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  5. 3 points
    Picked up a stahwhille tool box from a KC tool deal of the day last month. Also got a set of wera chisel drivers. Both of these will be dedicated to the model A when I get it later this month. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  6. 3 points
    Someone came across this and posted in regards to Makita also now releasing high efficiency miter saw blades in both 10” and 12”
  7. 3 points
    Reconditioned M18 Fuel Surge, and a Packout Compact organizer, removed the bins from the organizer and added Minicell foam. I think Milwaukee should sell Packout tool boxes that size.
  8. 2 points
    I picked up Dewalts new cordless sander. Seller made me wait for awhile so they gave me a free 2.0 battery for my trouble. Didn’t have the manual so I’ll be looking for a file online
  9. 2 points
    Take a screw or brad nail and release the spring from the flap. Takes a few seconds and saves you from shooting four letter words when you are in a hurry.
  10. 2 points
    The new DeWalt compact router came in today, thing is tiny and it's quieter then I thought it would be Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    My friend gave me a duplicate tenoning jig that he had. Perfect timing for this dresser build I'm doing. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    I really prefer the hackzall style recip. saw. It really shines for one handed use. You can hold the piece you're cutting and still control the saw with your other. We have the current dewalt compact and even though it's virtually the same size as the hackzall, the handle configuration still doesn't allow for very good one handed operation.
  13. 2 points
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
    For those that cannot find the photo.
  15. 2 points
    I guess all the miter stands on wheels are pretty pointless as well
  16. 2 points
    Is this an ironic joke post or are you serious? You’ve never ran a mitre on a site? You’ve never dealt with cords on a site? You’ve seen people work on one site for decades? You believe cordless tools don’t have more power than corded at this point? Your post is irrational.
  17. 2 points
    Jrbuilder - I sent you a PM with the files I have. I found it next to impossible to get accurate measurements by trying to measure the blade to the slot in the base. There just is not a solid place to easily reference from. I tried the suggested methods of making a cut and then measuring blade toe in using a business card but preferred to use feeler gauges as it is just a more reliable measuring tool. In the end I ran across an Instagram post (by jar944) which made me realize I had the tools to easily get reliable measurements. Using a dial indicator on a magnetic base, both cheaply available from a place like Harbor Freight I was able to get my toe-in to exactly .005". The guide rail is sitting on the edge of my table saw cast iron wing and the magnetic base is attached to the bottom of the table saw guide tube. By holding the blade down and sliding the saw back and forth I am able to see the difference in the blade with relationship to the guide rail. If you try this you will see that the blade is actually a little thicker towards the center of the disk so you really need to look at the reading at each edge and ignore the middle. Please remember to remove the batteries or unplug as applicable when making these measurements. Regarding the blade, I have stuck with the original blade for now as I am only using the saw for cutting up MDF and other sheetgoods. The stock blade actually works well in that application. I have been given the suggestion to try a Tenryu 28 tooth blade for ripping. This blade is a little thicker having a wider kerf and should not flex as much as the stock blade. However, it will cut into the rubber anti-splinter strip changing its relationship to the stock blade. I will wait until I have a need to straightedge some hardwood before I go down that path. Note that other than the Makita blades you will generally only find 160mm blades which are designed for the Festool. These blades work fine on the Makita but you do lose the ability to use the score function of the saw. Dewalt and Triton also use the 165mm blades but I have not bothered to look at them as the Triton blade sounds like it is has issues and have not heard much regarding the Dewalts. Some people like the Freud options and Oshland blades get decent reviews for a low priced option. With the new Kreg saw using the 165mm blade I am hopeful we will see some other 165mm options in the US market. Sorry for the long-winded answers but just trying to share all the details I have. Feel free to contact me if you have any more questions. George
  18. 2 points
    Thanks for the help. That is probably what happened. I’m calling it user error and ordering a new piece of rubber for the track and starting over. Played with the saw yesterday some more and now my cuts are about a 16th away from the rubber that I cut too close earlier. When I got my table saw I spent several hours dialing it in and practicing with scrap but I was in a hurry with the track saw and just jumped right in.
  19. 2 points
    Picked up the Dewalt mid range wrench today.
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    I love Ridgid's orange/black scheme, but I do feel extra cool when I bust out my black Ridgid tools.
  22. 1 point
    Hi i am new and i want to learn about wood woking.
  23. 1 point
    I bought an Amana Tool steel blade for my track saw. I need to cut some metal and I am going to try it out. It is just some corrugated steel nothing very thick. The product listing of the blade says not to use a vac which is disappointing. Is this an application where I should adjust the speed dial to a lower speed? I also got a Festool baseball hat because might be a good idea to have a hat if I am mowing all summer.
  24. 1 point
    Hopefully it’s not so loud and that one screw in the grip (some of you have to know what I’m talking about) won’t get piping hot with prolonged use.
  25. 1 point
    Really wide but short trailer!
  26. 1 point
    I am a DIY enthusiast and have to deal with power tools. So i came here to get help and to help as much as i can.
  27. 1 point
    Throw it away and get a real one. Go to an outdoor power equipment dealer and buy one there. The quality and reliability far exceeds anything from ryobi
  28. 1 point
    I bought a PJ 77x12' utility trailer. I had to drive 60 miles to the nearest place that sells PJ but it was worth it. I wanted a trailer that I would know is built well and would last.
  29. 1 point
    I used to live on the shore of Lake Superior. We’d get a week of -20 for a high. So this is how guys that work outside a lot do it there. I don’t live there now but I still practice cold management. The trick is to first get a good thin glove. Aka liner glove. Something knit. There are so many good industrial gloves just pick one that you like. Go for snug but not too tight and not too lose fit, even when your hands swell. Do not use nitriles or waterproof gloves as liners. Wet hands get cold 10 times faster. Air is an insulator. Water is a conductor. Warm and dry is the answer on the liner glove. The best insulation invented so far is aerogel because it’s 99.99% trapped air. Gloves are the same way. The ones with more solid material (leather) are not as insulative as good knit gloves. So there is a trade off between warmth and dexterity (thin). So it should be no surprise then that there is no material that insulates better than plain old air so don’t expect a $50 thinsulate glove to outperform a $5 knit industrial glove because all you are paying for is the stuff between the air molecules which should be as little as possible, and the more you pay for the thicker and more useless the glove becomes. If you want get the cut resistant ones but some of the higher level cut resistance uses steel or more solid materials so watch out. TSC sells a decent one of these. At level 3 it takes effort and multiple passes to hack through the glove with a razor knife. Level 5 just dulls the knife but the insulation value is compromised too so level 2 or 3 is what you want for winter as a liner. Demolition gloves should be outer gloves if you really need those. Now get three. These gloves are cheap. Don’t spend over $5-10 per pair and you can get by cheaper than that. A lot of guys buy the $10 for 10 Jersey gloves. In my opinion you can get much better for a couple bucks more. Buy at the local industrial supply or farm store.. if you find one you like then switch to Zoro or Amazon. Then get a good heavy work mitten and wear it over the liner glove. Make sure the mitten comes off easy so when you try it on put on another (liner) glove first. The trapped air between the gloves adds to the insulation and the mitten helps keep your fingers warm. In upper Wisconsin and Michigan they are called choppers. Get one with leather palms and thumb. Some guys bought military surplus gloves or mittens but I haven’t seen those in 20 years. These are much harder to find outside of the Midwest so if you can’t get mittens go for the biggest, bulkiest gloves you can. If you are working anything with liquids that is wet or greasy or oily where it will soak the glove. Then you need to switch off for a pair or nitrile or PVC coated gloves as the outer glove. I like the “fireball” glove if they still sell it but I never see those around here. This is usually a separate special glove since it stays permanently greasy even after wiping them off regularly. The insulation value of all of these gloves is awful. Also don’t buy really puffy furry lined ones because they interfere with grip. The best ones have a knit glove that is fairly thick but rubber coated. It is going to smell. Get used to it. It will smell worse with grease or hydraulic fluid on it. Get some rags too to wipe stuff down. Now put one liner pair in the house or truck to dry. Put the second pair in an inner pocket where they are there if you need them. Put the third pair on. Put the heavy outer mitten or glove on over that. When you are doing heavy work carrying materials, walking from place to place, using tools like hammers, standing, or if your hands are getting stiff, wear the mittens. Wear the outer glove wiping things down too. It’s really important that the inner glove stays dry. Then for detailed work first get everything together and laid out for the job before you start. Then slip the mittens off in your pockets. Use the more “inner” pockets that go down inside your jacket so they stay warm, not surface/outer pockets but the mittens get nasty so don’t put them in “clean” inside pockets. Do what you need to do quickly and efficiently because you have limited working time. Realistically in negative temperatures you can get about 15-20 minutes of work done at a run before it’s time to warm your hands back up again. On really cold days you work around the idea that you have limited time out of the mittens. On warm days it’s the opposite. You have to dump the mittens if your hands are overheating so you don’t sweat or just use the liner gloves or buy another pair of “all in ones” for those days. Down to about 20 degrees the somewhat thicker knit industrial gloves or the leather palmed sewn gloves do fine. Get in a habit of putting the big gloves back on every chance you get. As you are working with them off you sort of get a sense of timing. Don’t let your hands get any colder than necessary because it takes that much longer to warm up. You can start to feel your hands get stiff and losing feeling, grip, and dexterity. As you work you sort of have to decide how long you can keep going before it’s time for a break. There is nothing more frustrating than fighting to finish a job when your hands are too cold to start a nut or a screw. If (when) the liner gloves get wet from sweat or water switch off with the pair you stuffed into an inside pocket earlier. At your first opportunity lay the wet pair out to dry some place warm hopefully rotating them with the pair that was laid out to dry. So that’s five pairs of gloves. My truck has at least that many in it in winter. Doing electrical and mechanical maintenance destroys gloves so I go through a lot of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    Shoot Eric a PM Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
    I move my 10” cordless saw all the time both in my shop and out in the field. Most recently using it on a deck build out of my truck. I’m not sure I need a 12” but my 10” cordless is designed to be very portable. It fits nicely in my 4Runner and also on a portable shop bench. I imaging if I was framing homes having a cordless 12” would be pretty sweet but alas that’s not what I ever plan on doing 👍
  32. 1 point
    Was curious about all the “OCTANE” branding, was beginning to think it was just a marketing gimmick, I think for what you pay for Ridgid you get outstanding tools Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
    A little more time with this drill and absolutely loving it. Still shocks me grabbing a big handful of trigger. The old saying "too much power is just enough" totally applies. Years ago if someone told me that cordless drills were going to have over 1000 inch pounds of torque I would've asked what they were smoking, and if I can have some too.
  34. 1 point
    Hi I just purchased the cordless track saw. I made my initial cut in the track and the rubber was very rough. It had the tiniest bumps at regular intervals down the track. Made a couple more cuts and it seemed to smooth out. By the fourth cut the saw kind of bound up in the middle of the track and when I finished my cut I noticed the middle of the track I actually cut the aluminum track! I had the saw adjusted like the manual says to slide easy but no chatter side to side. I don’t understand how the saw cut the track but now I’m left with not trusting the rubber strip to line up my cuts.
  35. 1 point
    Short promo of it on an Aussie retailer. It also comes with an 305mm (12") Efficut blade in AUS/NZ.
  36. 1 point
    Interesting feedback. Always interesting how new electronics can sometimes be wonky that way. A lot of people will argue endlessly that stuff like that doesn’t exist but you can’t argue with it when you’re watching it happen right in front of you.
  37. 1 point
    Like Jimbo said they are people breaking up deals on kits for profit.
  38. 1 point
    Hey everyon/ Im from Canada. Search smth interesting information about woodworking
  39. 1 point
    Ive never seen a fake that had the dewalt graphics on it. Always clearly marked differently
  40. 1 point
    Compact organizer with closed cell foam in place of the bins.
  41. 1 point
    It is loud but that is expected from a straight knife bench top planer. I would recommend getting a helical head kit for the 735x as soon as you can. It cuts down on noise, improves blade life, and provides a better quality cut.
  42. 1 point
    Ordered the Incra aluminum router plate with mag lock rings. Seems nice and heavy duty. Also ordered a template to make my life easy. I thought I was going to have to drill a hole for the above table adjustment but I guess not. The only issue is that it is on the back right and not the front lest like the kreg plate. This rotates the router. If I don't like it this way I'll rotate it and drill a hole where it won't be so close to the fence. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  43. 1 point
    I hadn't, thank you, and@JakeDewalt for the lead! Got back from a job last night to find this great advice lol glad I jumped in the forum. Thanks again guys, I'll be hitting up my closest center this afternoon[emoji106] Sent from my LGL158VL using Tapatalk
  44. 1 point
    Saw this on Instagram also mentioned a 10" miter saw coming
  45. 1 point
    https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/best-18v-impact-driver-head-to-head-review/43129/ I think this comparison is a bit more likely to be objectively trustworthy. Sure everyone could be paying people behind the curtains for any of these YouTube reviewers and certain performance tests can always be hand-picked to favor one product or another, but there are a decent number of hard measurements in here that are hard to argue with. For what it’s worth the Gen 3 finished number two behind the Makita but does have higher max power. Personally I think with impact drivers we’re moving past the days when max power should be the primary metric. Compact brushless motors have long since surpassed the mechanical limits of what’s sensible for the 1/4” hex format; if you need more use an impact wrench with appropriate size drive. They even say this exact thing at the end of this review. Buying 1/4” drives just to stick 1/2” adapters on that you keep breaking isn’t enhancing utility for anything.
  46. 1 point
    Milwaukee rolling packout box and Milwaukee Jigsaw 2737B
  47. 1 point
    True, that did look the case in the comparison, but the difference will be that the max will be under almost no strain at 3/4", the plus machines will be nearing their upper limit. Also, I've had a couple of reliability issues with my M28 machines of late, so I'm backing away from the brand. The Dewalt machines have so far proven more reliable.
  48. 1 point
    Only ever owned one, and it's the Poulan Pro PP46BT. Got it for $200 and it definitely moves some leaves (even wet, same day it rained).
  49. 1 point
    I'm holding out for the brushless coffee maker... LOL
  50. 1 point
    Boss: You couldn't get any work done today because your batteries were all dead. Why? Worker: I was making coffee
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