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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/08/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I like that deal. If I needed a light, i would scoop that up.
  2. 2 points
    Listen It's like when you guy to buy a truck, do you get it in 2 Wheel drive or 4 Wheel drive. Personal I choose the 4 Wheel drive mode ( self propelled ) because it is nice to have it when you need it. If you are powering through high grass, as I did already, squeeze the drive and walk right through a patch of 4 foot grass that hadn't been mowed all year. I will warn you, start on slow speed as the self propelled will run a heck of a lot faster than you can fast walk. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Oh and finally...I think... That impact driver is almost certainly powerful enough to change the tires on your sedan, can’t be as certain on the Tacoma. On paper Tacoma wheel lugs don’t get torqued any tighter than a passenger car but many models of trucks get torqued tighter and not everyone looks up or follows specs all that closely. If changing tires is something you expect will be a frequent thing for you, yes you should look into getting an impact wrench making 200+ ftlbs. If you think more involved work on your vehicles is in your future, you may want to even consider Makita’s 1000ftlb+ impact wrench, or wait for their upcoming 500ftlb “mid-torque” model due probably later this year.
  4. 2 points
    I broke down and bought a 56 volt lawn mower. I tell you this was the most apprehensive purchase I have ever made, plus the 500.00 price tag, I was like crap I could buy a nice table saw for what I was about to spend. Let me tell you, I am very impressed. The power the Ego has , it's incredible. I ran it through some 4 foot grass while in self propel mode and it did not even know the grass was there. Sounds like a turbo kicks in as soon as it hit the tall grass. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. The Mighty Vac hand vacuum pump kit has been a solid performer for me for decades.
  6. 1 point
    I live in a place there are sudden drops of temperatures and sometimes minus degrees I use thermal gloves. they are the warmest type of gloves. because they typically have an insulated inside with an outer shell built to protect your hands from the elements.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    I understand you, have same thinking. I have die grinder, plate joiner and nibbler with old brushed body. I would not buy this new cut out tool, but definitely I will buy die grinder a and plate joiner with new BL technology. Perhaps Makita will not let us waiting too long (as with OMT tool 😃).
  9. 1 point
    Cornhub, How did that hammer work out. I'm just about ready to do the same thing. Pin all the way out and after following all the "recommendations" absolutely nothing the striker/pin stays all the way out. I'm all Milwaukee cordless so I guess I'm forced into replacing it. tools really don't last as long as they used to but I guess an old finishing hammer was just a hammer. No parts to fail.
  10. 1 point
    Welcome to the crew dude your gonna fit right in here!!
  11. 1 point
    Works perfectly, just no longer need it. $50 shipped to the lower 48.
  12. 1 point
    I think you’re boned. Closest choice is the Makita rear handle since your on the platform. The only 7.25” blade-left option I can think of that isn’t rear handle is the Ryobi...and I’m hard-pressed to imagine that one could have more power than your brushless Makita. On the other hand, Ryobi has 9Ah batteries while Makita doesn’t, so it’s conceivable...but I’d be surprised.
  13. 1 point
    How long and how often do you expect to use it? Will it be for home or frequently used in public places?
  14. 1 point
    The instrumentation on the ZT480s (and the RM480s) has been reported by many to be inaccurate and misleading. The Battery Level Meter on my mower is erratic in its reporting and the hour meter is off by 6%. The hour meter even reset itself to zero last summer. I do some extra steps to monitor the battery performance so I know how healthy the pack is. 1. I measure the pack voltage before and after mowing. I use a volt meter to read the voltage at the charging port. 2. I bought a $30 recording watt meter to measure how much it takes to recharge the pack each time the charger does a charge. 3. May be extreme, but I put this all into a spreadsheet to track usage trends. Ryobi’s battery check method is to pull the batteries, disconnect all pack wiring, charge each battery individually with a separate charger, and load test each. I took mine to a local battery shop for the testing. Boost charging is NOT recommended for SLA batteries as it can promote sulfication in the cells and shorten battery life. Always fully charge the pack when you charge the mower. Reduced run time is usually due to one of the four batteries having a weak cell. Eventually, the battery will fail entirely and the system will then refuse to charge the pack. The electronics limit battery drain down to 36 volts to prolong the life span of the pack.
  15. 1 point
    When you're as late to the game as dewalt was with this light why would they not incorporate more hanging options. I have the original m18 flood light and the new flood light with swivel head. While the original was nice and bright its not nearly as versatile as the new one with a built in magnet and clamp. You can attach it to all sorts of surfaces and the the swivel allows you to focus the light where you need it.
  16. 1 point
    The Makita 6½ brushless is blade left too and is also a great saw. Since you are already on the platform, it seems like a good option. I have both the rear- and top-handle 7¼ saws and use the 6½ more than either. It's also worth noting that having both left and right-blade saws (and comfort using either) comes in real handy when making certain cuts. At least the Makita and Milwaukee saws have good enough visibility to be used with either hand.
  17. 1 point
    I know its not a 7 1/4" but it has served me well with everything I've had to cut
  18. 1 point
    I picked up an Ego 56 volt weed eater with the power wind head and 2.5 ah battery. UPS delivered it this morning and I have already refilled the head twice, and recharged the battery twice. But dang that thing has some power. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    The control board on mine broke once. The light would come on, but nothing else happened. Mine was still under warranty, so an authorized Makita repair shop did the work free of charge.
  20. 1 point
    Yes, I though for sure they would have released a slew of 60v OPE since they got rid of the 40v line. I am still waiting patiently for the 60v sidewalk / curb edger !!! almost all the brands have one available. Would purchase a dual battery 60v snowblower in a snap.
  21. 1 point
    Does anyone know if the 12" bar & chain from the DeWalt chainsaw can be used as a replacement for the 8" stock bar and chain on we pole saw?
  22. 1 point
    Are you using an extension ? Are your sockets impact rated ? Why I ask is that I purchased a snap on 18 volt 1/2 impact and wasnt impressed till I removed a 4 inch extension out of the equation and went with an impact rated deep well socket. Just like you, putting them on was fine but when trying to remove the lug nuts, it was disappointing. Now anything I use, has to be impact rated. And believe me, I have tore the whole front end off my wife's explorer and my 3/4 ton super duty with my impact. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  23. 1 point
    I will have to say, my metabo came with a carbide blade that seems to be pretty decent. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    Also with respect to 2 and 3... I myself don’t tend to be at all worried about a small scratch out of the box if there are no other indications the tool has been (ab)used at all. Although I wouldn’t waste much time checking that it works normally is all, just to make sure it isn’t a returned purchase that was defective or screwed up by a previous buyer, shipping, etc. Impact wrenches outputting much more torque than impact drivers are a bad idea to connect 1/4” hex adapters to...they’re just going to weigh more, break bits, and can often be less efficient for driving small screws anyway as they generally spin slower. Just get the tool most appropriate for the job while you’re learning. You can “break rules” with tools after you have spent the time to develop a good handle on how they work. A lot of time.
  25. 1 point
    For jobs it’s sensible to charge batteries at the end of the day so people aren’t sitting around with nothing to do while batteries are getting charged in the morning. But that’s entirely a matter of work pragmatics, technically the best practice for lithium batteries is to use them as soon as they’re charged. The “least-happy” states for lithium batteries are at the extreme ends of being charged or discharged so from a longevity/reliability standpoint it’s better to avoid leaving them fully charged very long. Personally I don’t feel leaving them charged overnight is terribly harmful, but I definitely avoid leaving them that way for weeks or months. Optimal storage is generally considered roughly half-charged if you expect to leave your batteries alone for those lengths of time. Point is there’s no performance benefit to leaving a charged battery alone 12 hours before use.
  26. 1 point
    Hello and nice to have you on the forum. Always nice having people who want to learn the trades and about tools. . Do I have to charge the 18v battery at least 12hrs before initial use? - No, if you have a battery that is low, it will take about an hour to charge depending upon the amp. No need to charge that far in advance. Now it's always good practice to put your batteries on the charger over night if you have been using them all day so they are ready for the next day and your not waiting around, but that isn't required. Why is there a scratch on the model plate? See pic. I called dealer and she said it came from manufacturer. Some said it's probably a show model and some said it's a refurbished. I am not sure where you bought it from but my guess is it's a refurb model. I haven't seen a new tool have that issue. But again, anything can happen. But I think it is a refurb model. Hopefully the company you bought it from wasn't advertising it as a new model. I was recommended to go with a 1/2 impact drill just in case I work on changing my car tires. But would I need to convert down to 1/4 to use thr bits I have around the house? Also, would 1/4 be enough for taking tires off my seden and Toyota Tacoma? The model you have is an impact driver which is a 1/4" chuck and is really designed for fasteners such as screws and lag screws. For changing wheels you would really want to go with an Impact Wrench which has a different head and is designed for sockets and high torque applications. Yes, you can get an adapter for an Impact Driver but for automotive use, an impact wrench is a batter tool. I hope this helps and if you have more questions or need more clarification, let us know.
  27. 1 point
    The Dewalt 12” will not fit. I put a 10” Oregon bar on the pole saw. I’ll look to see what part numbers I used for the 10” combo set up.
  28. 1 point
    usually we are half a year behind Europe. I believe everything I listed in the first post above is available in North America.
  29. 1 point
    There is a version for a framing hammer but I haven't seen one for a dead blow hammer. I am sure there is one but I can't find a manufacturer of one.
  30. 1 point
    You need to buy some professional grade tools if you expect them to keep up with daily use and abuse Also what are you cutting are you sure a sawzall is the best tool for the job
  31. 1 point
    Tool Buying Guide.... Tools have been around for a very long time helping people everyday from just being there to show manhood to down right making a living. Everyone has to start somewhere, some people are lucky to have other people in their lives to help with this part of life by showing them the ropes. I'm going to go over a few things you should think about if you are ready to have tools be part of your everyday life for helping with self accomplishment or profit. There are many brand names available that tend to show off their flagship tools, with ads that tend to make the tougher jobs look simple, that is all well and fine if you have experience with tools but what if you don't. If you are ready to dip into the tool world and have very little to no experience here are a few things to think about. You can start out with basic hand tools like a hammer, tape measure, and a hand saw but now days we all want convenience as well..... so power tools are usually the way to go. Many brands offer corded power tools in pretty much every shape or form but taking a step further are cordless power tools. Now in saying that many brands have most all cordless power tools needed to do almost every tasks. Some manufactures cater to different area's of the work force, not all brands offer all kinds of tools in every field, think about what you might want to do with your new tools now and in the future. This is important because it can reflect on what brand to buy into. This without saying there is nothing wrong with buying into more than one brand or battery platform but you may want to do this in the future. There are also different power in tools mainly in the volts you see advertised. 12V and 18V/20V are the most common, most tool companies offer many tools in both power ratings. These tools are very different in size and power, the 12V options offer adequate power to handle most things with a compact size as well. The 18v/20v versions are usually the power houses of the line of tools offered. So the question is do I need one or the other or both, well this is where it can get tricky, the 18v/20v versions of the tools are not only larger and heavier but usually come with a larger price tag as well. Again it is not wrong to have or want both but if you are just starting out, the larger more powerful 18v/20v is usually the way to go to get started. Another thing is all the talk about brushed or brushless versions of tools, not all tools are equal not all brands offer all tools in both versions. The newer technology is the brushless tools and they usually come with a higher price. Is the brushless style needed? well not totally. They will however offer slightly more power and battery run time but that is not saying a brushed version is not good. If you are just starting out most times the best economical way to buy your tools are in combo kits, you will receive multiple tools that are mainly paired up with a drill/driver and an impact/driver, Note about impact drivers: Although most manufactures introduced the impact driver not all that long ago and deem the new tool to be the drivers of all drivers they don't play nice with every application. As impact drivers tend to pound or hammer when driving, an impact driver is still a great tool for many applications however for some delicate driving a regular drill will do a better job. Some of the larger kits will tent to include a reciprocating saw, circular saw along with a light of some kind. These kits generally come with 2 batteries ranging in power ratings of small compact 1.5 ah right up to 5.0ah batteries and a matching charger. You may think I'm never gonna need these extra tools that are included in the kit but when you add up the costs the more in the kit the cheaper the individual tools become, so in saying that once you do own them and you find you don't use them there is a good chances someone will purchase them from you to help offset the original cost. Do some research, think about what you will want to do, find a big box store that have these different brands on display so you can get a feel for the tools in your own hands, just like seeing a fancy sports car, it may look great but not always are they comfortable for everyone to drive. All different tool companies come with all different warranties for their tools, some are very different from one another some are better than others as well. This can reflect on what brand to buy into but it shouldn't. I am not going to go into what brand is best or what brand to try and avoid but I would stick to brand names that are known. I hope this helps by giving you something to think about before jumping into the tools world.....Good Luck!
  32. 1 point
    today I have bought a drill.
  33. 1 point
    Try acmetools Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
    I just got my ac/dc adapter in the mail today. Now I am waiting on 2 free batteries. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    Signs are they’ve been working on a brushless OMT for some time, but when it releases I would guess it will probably just be marketed as the “compact” replacement for the current one, even though diagrams online suggest it could be worthy of “subcompact” status. Even though I’m a fan of the line in concept I don’t have many current tools I expressly want a subcompact for. Makita does so well just making their regular tools compact that the subcompacts are often overkill for me. Like why isn’t their 4” brushless angle grinder considered “sub-compact”? I don’t think it even makes sense to go smaller than that. Of the ones already out, I think the one I would be most likely to get would be the brushless recip saw. The circular saw is also pretty compelling except I don’t want blade right, so maybe a blade left model. I could totally go for a subcompact brushless die grinder...that would basically just be the shameless Dremel knockoff I’ve been wishing forever for Makita to make. A brushless sheet sander would probably qualify as subcompact whether or not they would choose to market it as such. Oh and a subcompact brushless screwdriver, based on the subcompact drill, analogous to the drivers they have in their CXT line. That would be pretty swank.
  36. 1 point
    It'll nor vac pine cones. The vanes in the fan are approx 1 cm apart (1/2 inch), and that three prong blade is more about clearing blockages than chopping hard things like cones. Sounds like you need an old golf ball pick up machine from a driving range! Or an old mower that you don't mind denting the blade on pine cones?
  37. 1 point
    I have this. It’s a brilliant tool. There are very few manufacturers making vac/blowers so I delighted that one of them was Makita so I could use my existing batteries. I use it a bit for tidying the garden after the mower, mainly the grass clippings that always escape onto the patio. Its biggest benefit is to vac the guinea pigs hutch, it happily chomps up the clumps of damp wood shavings and hay in seconds. The full power vac mode runs the batteries down quickly (5Ah in10-15 min) but it also has a half power mode that lasts a lot longer. Perhaps 20-30 min. The trigger is progressive with a lock so you can adjust the power to what you need. I’m guessing the timing because I can get two weekends on one charge. It does seem an expensive toy for 10 mins each weekend but it saves the hassle of reaching into the hutch with a dustpan brush, and it pulls grass clippings from the gaps between paving stones which saves having to weed them out when they take root.
  38. 1 point
    I would love to see some trade specific tools. Like the Band saw, which they just announced, thanks toolbane. I would like to see something like the Bosch FlexiClick.
  39. 1 point
    This morning I used the driver/bit as you described, and it is much better. The magnetic effect tends to hold the bit in place. However, it is not totally satisfactory, as the bit still tends to escape from its magnetic clutches from time to time. I think what I really need is an impact-ready square driver bit with a notch on its shaft, and use that directly in the driver. Hopefully the hardware store has one. Seems like the Dewalt bit set was a bit of a waste of money for me. BTW, the DFC887 is just too strong most of the time. It has 3 settings: 'weak', 'too powerful', and 'even more powerful'. It is necessary to ride the trigger almost all the time, which is something the manual tells you not to do! What it really needs is to have its 'too powerful' setting toned down a notch or two.
  40. 1 point
    20V Max actually IS the same as the 18V nominal standard that everyone else uses. It’s just a difference in how the measurement is taken...Max is when a fully-charged battery is sitting idle while nominal is the battery under load across its entire operating range.
  41. 1 point
    It sounds to me like you are inserting the driver tip directly into the drill. You will need to use the silver 1/4” driver in the drill first. It has a notch at the end designed to lock into the impact. Then the tip goes into the driver and that should be held in with either a magnet or a wire ring inside the silver driver.
  42. 1 point
    I have 3 installed in my garage but I also utilize some of the larger boxes. I think @JakeDewalt 's 7-8 guess sounds reasonable. I personally wouldn't cram all 8 full of screws and then place them all on the same rack. The racks are only rated for 440 lbs. I would go for 2 racks just for that extra versatility. If you get any of the larger boxes you have flexibility in how you want to setup your racks whereas a single rack would be limited. Plus with the racks come with an organizer so if you get 2 racks you will also have 2 organizers.
  43. 1 point
    It comes with 5 sets of Arms. I would think with the smaller boxes and additional arms you could fit 7 or 8 depending on weight
  44. 1 point
    Hi I’m Matt coming to you from Hercules CA. I’m a general contractor and carpenter and have been a woodworker since I was a kid. Hope you all have a great day.
  45. 1 point
    The long-forgotten B&D "Professional" Drill Sharpener Model No. 4300 was given to me free in the early 1980's by a friend and I'm just now starting to use it. This is actually a good functioning shop asset to have but I noticed a problem right away, the grinding dust is terrible. It's critical that the sliding-swinging-pivoting mechanism work as designed and with this much dust it won't for very long. So you can see in the pics how I grafted a ShopVac hose connection into the grinding wheel's cover plate and both the sharpener and the ShopVac stay plugged into the powerstrip with both "on" all the time and everything is mounted to that ugly-colored piece of wood which I simply quick-clamp to my welding table. Turn on the powerstrip and go, wow, what an improvement. These sharpeners are not very common and it seems a lot of people have come across them with the bit locator missing. The tool is absolutely useless without it. I could help out a fellow site member with a replacement one which would be a machined copy of the oem piece I make myself 'cuz I wanna be helpful, sure, why not? Thanks for viewing my first topic.
  46. 1 point
    Phillips must hire an electrician to fix the problem of stripping.
  47. 1 point
    Something to add regarding blades. There are different types of tooth patterns on blades. These inude Alternate Tooth Bevel (ATB) and Triple Chip Grind (TCG). There are more but these are the majority of what you will see on the market. ATB blades are more designed for the majority of wood products as the tooth pattern is able to rip and cut with minimal effort. Coarse tooth blades are great for ripping and very rough cuts. Finer tooth blades are great for cross cuts and fine finish work; normally when a clean cut is desired. These blades often have a positive pitch to the angle of the tooth, making the cutting action more aggressive. TCG blades are designed for composites, plastics, laminates, and metal. These blades have alternating teeth but feature a "raker" tooth to clean out the cut. Because of this, it is important to keep in mind that you generally need to cut slower. As with ATB blades, the number of teeth remain on the same concept. Coarse for rough cuts and fine for finish, smooth cuts. Now TCG also applies to metal cutting blades. What sets these blades apart is the pitch of each tooth. The teeth are set at a negative pitch which reduces friction and are less aggressive which helps make the blade last longer overall.
  48. 1 point
    Another thing I like about it is there is a pocket for your sheetrock saws or key hole saw or chisel that has a hard plastic mold in the pocket to keep from tearing holes in the belt. And a phone pocket on the suspenders. Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk
  49. 1 point
    I am in the market for a new belt and just so happens that this particular belt stood out to me. I'm glad I got to see your review, I think I know which one I'll be getting. Thanks man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  50. 1 point
    Nice belt the harness helps Jimbo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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