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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I haven't had a chance to use it much but just thought I would take a few pictures of the new dcf902 12v brushless impact wrench for guys out there wondering how the sizes compare. I have other impacts if someone's interested in more picture but I had these ones at the house and they give a pretty good idea. FYI the dcf890(20v 3/8" brushless) and dcf880( 20v 1/2" brushed) are virtually identical in size when side by side. Dcf902 and dcf880h. Dcf902 and dcf880h. M12 1/2" stubby 2555 and dcf902. M12 2555 w/2.0 and dcf902 w/2.0. M12 2555 w/4.0 and dcf902 w/2.0. M18 2655, m12 stubby 2555, 12v dcf902, and 20v dcf880h.
  2. 3 points
    Well I guess I'm in the Dewalt 12v line.
  3. 2 points
    Primatech 550ACR 18 gauge cleat/ stapler. Made in Canada, these are supposed to be the Rolls Royce of flooring nailers. I can’t wait to try it out!
  4. 2 points
    Hikoki 36V Multivolt angle grinder. Like every Multivolt tool I've bought, it has a VERY high build quality. I think the variable speed will come in useful (5 speed settings from 3000rpm - 9500rpm). When running this at 3000rpm, the speed is quite low, so there's a lot of range available. I'm loving the Multivolt so far, especially the reciprocating saw!
  5. 2 points
    Cordless grinder pictures
  6. 2 points
    So my roofer borrowed my DeWalt dcs391 and to shorten the story it took the quick way to the driveway. He offered to buy me a new one, so off to Lowes I went. They have a buy select bare tool get a 3ah and charger free deal, so I got the dcs570 with the freebies, win/win. Well after running the saw for a week or so something just wasn't right, I found the shoe to be 1/16 outta square from the blade. I took it back to Lowe's to exchange it and the customer service person processed it as a return giving me back the total in cash. I bought the same saw and got another freebie! So in the end I have 2 new 3ah slim packs, 2 more chargers and a new saw. Fun part is the dcs391still works just need to order a new shoe for it.
  7. 2 points
    It looks like there's an updated brushless 12V drill in Europe, including a flexiClick version. 35Nm and 1,750rpm (previously 1,300rpm). https://www.bosch-presse.de/pressportal/de/en/more-powerful-than-ever-before-bosch-flexiclick-12-v-–-now-with-a-brushless-motor-191168.html
  8. 2 points
    The storage bed is finally finished and my 4 year old loves it. I originally planned to get it finished last month but some shop upgrades slowed the build down a little. The rear drawers will be used for long term storage. The bed completes the set for my son. The set consisted of a bed, chest of drawers, night stand, and hamper. Instead of using drawer pulls on the drawers I routed in a handle pull like on the hamper. This does two things. 1. It ties the hamper and bed together and 2. It keeps my kids from ripping the handles off, skinning their shins, or using them as steps. Overall I'm happy with how the bed turned out. The drawers slide easily and my son can get in and out without much issue. He will hit a growth spurt shortly I'm sure anyways. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    I’ll be tied up for a while and will not be checking in as frequently as I do for a while. We had a new addition to our family and my daughter, Lillian, decided to come to us early like her Big Brother William. We will be in the NICU for a while, diagonally across from Williams NICU room but my beautiful Wife and Daughter are getting better. Reach out to @Eric - TIA if there are any issues if I don’t respond to requests. Thanks, Chris
  10. 1 point
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    I actually just had a 5.0 do this the other day and I've had other m18 batteries fail the same way. The battery is bad, although the "red link" computers not supposed to let it over discharge I assume that's what happens and when they drain too low they'll never take a charge again. Being that it's only 8 months old your best bet is to send it in to milwaukees warranty as it should be covered for 3 years pretty much no questions asked.
  12. 1 point
    I’m glad you caught that I hadn’t even noticed
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    I would look into the Makita and Dewalt 12v tools, because they use a 12v slide pack the grips are smaller and thinner. Saws and sanders are more I would recommend visiting you local HD or Lowes to get a feel of them.
  15. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. My guess is the skill / experience level is newbie, so safety first. Power tools, especially cutting tools, have the normal / expected operation, but strange / sudden / violent actions might occur during improper usage. Research the tools and the usage methods for maximum safety. Always wear safety glasses. Always mind finger location and blade location. All that being said, the most handy tool for the projects listed is a table saw. A standard 10" portable or shop table saw is invaluable for woodworking projects. My preference is good used tools. I shop on eBay, Craig's List and Offer Up. A standard 7¼" circular saw w/ a workbench or saw horses is useful, but less accurate than the table saw.
  16. 1 point
    Ryobi, easy. Do the 18V. Even though the tasks you’re describing here can largely be handled competently by just about anything these days. Besides being cheap to get into, their 18V platform has SO many useful products with SO much everyday and/or outdoor utility. Even ignoring most of the “standard” home project-type tools, they have products like their mattress inflator which is so useful for camping (additional utilities of helping to build campfires, clear dust out of hard-to-reach corners etc), or their power inverter, glue gun, tire pump, Dremel station, or soldering iron. Then their outdoor One+ stuff that uses the same batteries like their lawn mower, hedge trimmers, etc. It’s such a huge selection and so inexpensive. Black and Decker comparatively is a complete dead end. It will definitely do the job but if you have no regular use for it you’ll just end up leaving it in a shelf for years lamenting the space it takes up. Then when you finally have another use for it you’ll pull it out only to find the batteries are shot and probably had been for years.
  17. 1 point
    Also some sales prompted me to expand my 12V Makita line a little bit. These have been sitting around a couple weeks actually and I have yet to use them. The current project should allow me to mess around with them a bit though. For the sake of comparison, here are pics of the 12V CXT brushless drill-driver next to Makita’s compact drill (left) and full size (right). This CXT is just diminutive. My plan is to use them for travel as my parents frequently have repair projects for me to do every time I visit them. The jig saw is not terribly different in size from Makita’s brushless 18V, so I didn’t bother taking a comparison pic of it. I’ll be interested in seeing how much power it has. The 18V LXT has more than enough for my usual jigsaw purposes. This CXT costs less than half as much and is brushless, so if one isn’t bothered by the soft-start feature it’s probably a really good deal.
  18. 1 point
    I’ve not been doing very well keeping up on these things, but here’s a pic of a Ryobi vacuum I got today. While I was previously thinking I’d bother getting a fancy-schmancy prosumer-grade unit (Makita X2, of course), ultimately I decided I don’t use my tools regularly enough as a DIY guy to justify all the bells and whistles for mere dust-clearing. Plus I have a project I have to hurry on and don’t want to have to order then wait for it to arrive, so I just grabbed what was in-stock. Perhaps predictably none of the coupling was going to work. What’s up with having tons of “universal adapters” available that aren’t compatible with anything? “Universal” is supposed to actually MEAN something? Way too much latitude allowed in marketing these days I dunno. Luckily I found a coupler in the plumbing section that fit the bill just fine. If anyone finds this useful. My previous vacuum couldn’t hook up to my tablesaw at all so this was a game-changer. Hooks up nicely to my miter saw too. My garage is actually cleaner now than it was before I started cutting.
  19. 1 point
    Link TOWSON, MD (June 5, 2019) – DEWALT announces the XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools, a line of five compact and performance-packed brushless 12V MAX* tools. The new line offers powerful, ergonomic solutions for a variety of applications including electrical, drywall, remodeling, automotive, metalworking, woodworking, and masonry applications. The new XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools from DEWALT include the Brushless 12V MAX* Drill/Driver, the Brushless 12V MAX* Impact Driver, the Brushless 12V MAX* Screwdriver, the Brushless 12V MAX* 3/8-inch Impact Wrench, and the Brushless 12V MAX* Hammerdrill. Specific details about each tool as well as a complete list of products is included below: The 12V MAX* Brushless Drill/Driver (DCD701) is optimized for use in small pilot holes and can handle up to a 1/2-inch spade bit. The tool is 5.97 inches long and 1.91 pounds (tool-only). It’s lightweight and fits in tight places. It offers up to 250 UWO (Units Watts Out), a variable speed trigger, and 2-speed transmission. A belt clip and a bright LED are included on the tool’s foot. The 12V MAX* Brushless Impact Driver (DCF801) works well with small fasteners and can handle up to a 1/4-inch lag bolt. The tool is 5.05 inches long and 1.75 pounds (tool only). It achieves up to 1,450 in-lbs. of max torque, making it a powerful, subcompact choice. The impact driver features 3 modes: High Speed, Low Speed, and Precision Drive™ Mode. Precision Drive™ Mode can pause the Impact Driver for one second before impacting. This protects the fastener and material surface, providing users with control during applications that require a high level of precision. The tool includes three LEDs on the nosecone, a variable speed trigger, and a belt clip. The 12V MAX* Brushless Screwdriver (DCF601) is best used with hard-to-reach fasteners that need the control of its 15-setting clutch. The tool is 4.81-inches long, 1.5 pounds (tool only), yet is capable of up to 200 UWO of power. It features a belt clip and three LEDs on the nosecone. The 12V MAX* 3/8-inch Brushless Impact Wrench (DCF902) with a Hog Ring Anvil is designed for hard-to-reach nuts and bolts. The tool is 5.11 inches long and 1.73 pounds (tool only), achieving up to 1,500 in-lbs. of max fastening torque and 2,400 in-lbs. of breakaway torque. It features a variable speed trigger and has 3 modes: High Speed, Low Speed, and Precision Wrench™ Mode. The Precision Wrench™ Mode helps prevent overtightening and run-off. The Impact Wrench also features three LEDs on the nosecone to help illuminate work areas. The 12V MAX* Brushless Hammerdrill (DCD706) is optimized for creating variety of holes in brick and block, but can also tackle smaller holes in concrete. The tool is 6.6 inches long and 2.04 pounds (tool-only). It’s subcompact, lightweight, and fits in tight places. It offers up to 250 UWO, 25,500 BPM, a variable speed trigger, and a 2-speed transmission. A belt clip and LED are included on the tool’s foot. In addition to the efficiency and performance offered by brushless technology in the XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools, the 12V MAX* lithium ion battery included with each tool kit now features a Fuel Gauge charge indicator. With a quick button press, three LEDs display remaining battery charge. The 12V MAX 2.0Ah Battery (DCB122) is included in kits, and the 12V MAX 3.0Ah Battery (DCB124) is available separately in single and double packs. DEWALT 12V MAX* Batteries with Fuel Gauge are compatible with prior DEWALT 12V MAX* tools and chargers and come with a 2-year limited warranty. For professionals looking for capable, subcompact tools that perform tough applications in hard to reach spaces, the XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools are the ultimate choice. Available in summer 2019, each tool comes with a three-year limited warranty, one-year free service contract, and a 90-day money back guarantee.
  20. 1 point
    Japanese video showcasing the new radio. Close up in action. Info (all in Japanese)
  21. 1 point
    Hello and welcome to the forum
  22. 1 point
    Does it hum or anything ? Check the easiest things first like the cord then the brushes . Make sure they are making contact with the armature. Also look at the commutator bars while the brushes are out to see if it's in good condition , is it belt driven if so check the belt ? . If non of these are it see if you can bypass the switch so its directly on with alligator clips of something similar.
  23. 1 point
    It's been a ghost town lately, so I'll post something... Even though I have no use for this, I thought it was cool.
  24. 1 point
    I'd love a brushless multitool and compact in-line reciprocating saw (xrj01 style). As long as we're wishing, I'd also like a full sized X2 router, 18v and X2 beltsanders, more/better lighting options, and orbital motion added to the reciprocating saws... oh yeah, and a table saw...
  25. 1 point
    I'm deep deep into DeWalt, but I can't part with my Ryobi stuff because they keep releasing tools like this. Walking around Home Depot today and see this sitting there. Haven't seen mention of it anywhere. It's possible I missed it but anyway, pretty thrilled to have found these. Makita has one pretty similar to this that is 15" and from what I could find, produces 245 cfm (that seems low...it's gotta be higher). This is 18" and advertised as producing up to 2400 cfm. No clue as to the accuracy of the above cfm numbers, but I have the Ryobi going in my office and the thing is moving a ton of air. Very, very happy to have found this. I'm picturing hot days, working out of the van, this thing on high, keeping me a bit cooler...
  26. 1 point
    Been a long, long...too long...time since I could post in this thread. Seems like buying new tools is a thing of the past for me. However, couple of weeks ago took advantage of the Ryobi days deals and picked up the 3-speed impact and 3Ah HD battery kit. Today I had to run out and pick up a pair of 16" adjustable pliers...apparently I really don't have every tool I need like I thought I did.
  27. 1 point
    Harbor freight is a different kind of animal in the way of tool stores: their prices are so terribly low ( especially when you use coupon for 20%) that it makes you think that every thing is completely junk the moment that you walk in the door. But, I have actually gotten some really pretty good tools out of that place on the recommendation of others: the blue handle screwdrivers with the. Hex nut on top (unbelievable for the price) , red earthquake impact guns with 20% off coupon (really strong, good gun) the pro 1/2 inch impact sockets ( freaking as good as matco for only $20.00 with coupon instead of $300.00 off truck) air conditioning twin gauge set pretty good deal for the money with coupon. Don’t get me wrong, I have purchased my fair share of junk from hf ( as we all have). But the ones that I mentioned above , priceless information garnered from friends and associates: if you do not already have any of those tools, man, they are worth buying in multiple sets .
  28. 1 point
    They don't sell the compact 1/2" hog ring as a bare tool. So when you find a new one on ebay for half price you have to buy it.
  29. 1 point
    Think they’re made in Germany too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    I seem to be more interested in m12 as of late. I got the stapler and coat awhile back but recently got the 3/8 stubby and that new installation driver looks like something I will get. Might even try out the m12 surge. I wish DeWALT would bring back their version of NPS but seems unlikely with Craftsman around. DeWALT has been slower than normal the last couple years.
  31. 1 point
    My 2000 Searay 380 Sundancer was built from the factory with the optional 200' all-chain rode. This was a great option, with terrific holding power under lots of conditions. I built a snubber w/ a hook to hold the chain / absorb the shock during usage. There was a silent problem occurring, with the delamination of large sections of gel coat inside that anchor locker, that then clogged the two drain weep holes, causing rust near the bitter end of the chain. There was also exterior rust stain dribbling on the hull exterior below the drain weep holes, but it wasn't possible to see the interior problem, concealed below the anchor chain. An examination during the problem resolution, of my empty anchor locker revealed the exposed bare fiberglass hull to have a glossy surface, making gel coat adhesion difficult. My guess is operation during rough conditions had the chain bumping around, breaking away the poorly bonded gel coat. There were large sheets of loose gel coat, with pieces many inches long. My solution was to first scrape away whatever was possible to remove with a paint scraper. The next step was to vacuum sand the exposed fiberglass hull and to sand away any gel coat that was possible to remove without difficulty. All of the problem areas were above and below the internal loop eye, on either side of the centerline of the boat. That exposed bare fiberglass was painted with epoxy. A fitted plastic "wood" slatted shelf was made for the floor to space the rode an inch above the drain weep holes, while permitting the rode to drain / shed water and air dry. The rode was exchanged from all-chain to rope / chain. When I removed the original 5/16" chain it filled two five gallon buckets. Each bucket was very difficult to move because of the weight. My entire new rope / chain rode can be moved by me without difficulty. A cardboard template was created that fits the shape of the locker, an inch above the base. A tee bevel was used to get the internal hull slope. My Ridgid 4511 granite table saw was used to make all the compound cuts for this new plastic "wood" floor. The end result is exactly what I wanted. Now I don't have to worry about the drain weep holes being blocked. Everything will stay dry. Nothing will be beating on my hull. LOTS of weight was removed from the bow! Initial Condition - Chain Rode Removed Shelf Location Marked w/ Tape Cardboard Template Created / Fitted Ridgid 4511 Granite Top Table Saw Ripping Frame to Match Hull Slope Base Frame Parts w/ Cuts Permitting Bending to Match Hull Base Frame Trial Fit To Anchor Locker Base Frame Covered w/ Slats to Full Locker Width Platform w/ Extended Nose Added Covering Forward Gap Glossy Hull / Loose Gel Coat Sanded Prior to Epoxy Bare Hull Covered w/ Epoxy Anchor Rode in Completed Locker
  32. 1 point
    Hello, I have a Dewalt 20V Max String Trimmer DCST920 and I think something got jammed in the trimmer head. I have attached some photos of the head, as it is slightly different than the one I see online a lot. I removed all of the string but the spool inside the head casing will not make a full rotation. It stops at about a quarter turn in either direction and will not rotate any further. The head unit will make full rotation without any trouble. With the spool not rotating, I'm not able to load any new line. This trimmer is less than a year old and has not been heavily used. I would appreciate any guidance you could give me. Thank you, Eric
  33. 1 point
    I have that strummer in your last photo do you see the notch in the guard you put a screwdriver in that and slide it in to a hole you line up to lock the head then you undo the head by hand it might be left hand thread like a Moyer saw blade I think but it’s easy to do Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
    I had the same issue with my 60 volt, I couldn’t figure out how to load it, so I looked it up on YouTube. They all looked different! Mine looks just like yours. I did figure out a way to load it: Align all the holes. You should see all the way through the head. Stick a three foot piece of string through the hole and center it . Rotate the head so the head retracts the string. Leave just a couple inches out. Start the trimmer and bump the head. If it works as it should, you have wound it correctly.(iDK if you can only wind it one way or if I got lucky, but I did it correctly the first time) Replace the small piece with a 10’ piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    Lots of misinformation here. A breaker is no longer just a breaker. There are three different devices: breakers, GFCIs, AFCIs, and they detect and do different things. There is no one size fits all. I’ve “fixed” a lot of situations where somebody felt they were doing the right thing for instance by putting in combination AFCIs (and the moron inspector pushed for this) for ALL breakers in a machine shop! Not only is it not required but it caused all kinds of problems. First a 15 A breaker is not 15 A. Actually they are rated to trip between 80 and 100% of that number so at 12-15 A after a while (generally minutes). This is due to a small heating element that heats up and bends a bimetallic strip until it trips due to an overload which based on the description isn’t happening. So a tool rated for a 15 A circuit will be 12 A max. A true 15 A tool has one prong 90 degrees from the other one so it can only plug into a 20 A receptacle and can go up to 16 A. I’ve seen a few IT UPS systems with it. Using a 20 A breaker and 15 A receptacles or 20 A receptacles (these are dual rated) and heavier wire is Code and often done in garages and kitchens for a little extra margin but that’s not your issue. It’s easy to do and a cheap upgrade but doesn’t solve an issue that’s not overload. Second standard breakers are thermal-magnetic. There is a solenoid too that is set so that if the current exceeds 10 times the rated current so 150 A, it trips as soon as possible, generally in about 1/60th of a second. In industrial systems this is adjustable but this situation is residential where it isn’t. During starting the coils in the motor have to build up a magnetic field. At that point it’s just a coil of wire so it’s almost a dead short. There is an initial inrush that is very high, up to 17 times rated current by Code but I’ve measured some European motors at 22 times. These are very problematic with today’s industrial plant breakers. The inrush current is independent of the load. Industrially with faster breakers in common use these days as well as very high energy efficient motors with very high inrush, nuisance tripping is a common issue. But on ordinary breakers without microprocessor tripping (under 100 A) this is not an issue. Once this passes the motor is stalled (0 speed) so it pulls heavy starting currents. Stall current is still very high, 6-10 times rated current, but it’s low enough the breaker won’t trip. That’s a hint why the breaker magnetic trip is 10 times the rating, to avoid motor stall currents. On most motors within about 2-6 seconds it gets up to speed and the current drops down to nameplate or less. This will not trip the breaker normally because it takes time for the wire (and the breaker heater) to warm up so these initial surges go through without causing a trip except in a true overload condition say with a stalled motor or too many things plugged in. So inrush and stall should not be a factor and measuring “peak” or “inrush” current is just going to confuse things unless it finds a shorted motor coil. The GFCI comments are getting there but way off. A GFCI has two current sensors. One is on the hot and one on the neutral. Ground is not monitored and voltage has nothing to do with it. If the hot and neutral currents differ by even a few milliamperes (around 0.010 A but I forgot the exact number) again in about 1/60th if a cycle it trips. Inductive loads work just fine. The trip circuit is very simple but GFCIs tend to drift out of calibration pretty easily especially as cheap and mass produced as they are. The problem is it takes very little leakage to set the GFCI off so even very subtle problems are hard to spot on top of cheaply built GFCIs. As motors age the varnish gets cracked and crazed from heating and cooling. Then moisture and dirt gets in the cracks causing leaks which trips the GFCI but is really hard to diagnose with an ordinary meter. You need an insulation resistance meter known in the trade by the most famous brand name, Megger. Finally the latest one and this is a nightmare is the AFCI. An arcing fault has a minimum arc voltage which is pretty high when the arc ignites. Then as the current (not voltage) goes through zero (AC does this 120 times per second) the arc goes out then restrikes again as the voltage gets high enough. The current waveform looks like a squarish wave because of this on/off pattern. Simple electrical circuits won’t work. Various microprocessor programs are used to detect it. This explains the price...you are buying a computer stuffed in a breaker. There are lots of things even just semi-slow starters or the very quick current increase on starting that the AFCI often confuses so there are lots of nuisance trips with these. The worst are variable speed drives that basically have a “rabbit ear” shaped current that...surprise...looks an awful lot like an arc waveform. Supposedly GE has some industrial AFCIs that don’t trip with variable speed drives but my success rate on making one work is 0.0% and I’m a drives specialist for a motor shop! If you have one on your garage, get rid of it! It is not Code required for a reason in that location. The requirement is: “All 120 volt, single-phase, 15- or 20-amp branch circuits supplying outlets [includes both lighting outlets and receptacle outlets] and devices [including switches] installed in dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry rooms, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected.” Garages, shops, and outdoor locations are purposely not on the list. That doesn’t mean GFCI might be required and as I mentioned earlier, that’s not an issue. So suggestions are: 1. Check if it’s GFCI, AFCI, or regular breaker. 2. If it’s AFCI try plugging it in somewhere else with a GFCI. If it works, the issue is improper installation. Replace AFCI with GFCI. Get a credit for it. AFCIs are double or triple the cost of GFCI. If it trips, there is something wrong with the tool. Replace or repair. 3. If it’s GFCI again try somewhere else. Otherwise find an electrician friend with a Megger and test it. If it passes, defective GFCI. Replace. Again trying somewhere else may work,too. The trick is you’re getting an “instantaneous” trip but it’s unclear if it’s an electrical short, ground fault, or arcing fault, or a nuisance trip. Need to narrow down the cause. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  36. 1 point
    First coat of General Finishes Enduro var is on. I used my Fuji semi pro 2 to spray it. I have never used this finish before and this is my second project using the sprayer so I actually went over everything with a foam brush. I left the parts that wouldn't be seen with a spray finish only. I'll compare and see if the brush is needed. so far so good. Here is a pic of the headboard. I ended up doing the head boards and foot boards by hand only. No room left in the spray booth. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  37. 1 point
    Drawers are all fit and and am currently sanding them. I did a partial sand after doing the rough plane so this won't take too long. I will need to plane the face frame to the posts and sand them as well. My plan is to put a coat of finish on Monday night. Rubbed one of the faces with mineral spirits to get a glimpse of the walnut awesomeness. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  38. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. Is the problematic breaker GFCI or regular thermal/magnetic? If GFCI, the inductive motor load presents a phase (time) difference between voltage and current that could exceed the trip threshold. In either case, breakers can go bad, but not typical on a new house. Is retaining the house wiring, but swapping two usage of a physically different but equivalent breaker in the panel an option? If so, please report on the results. Use all appropriate safety procedures and qualified personnel when working on electrical systems.
  39. 1 point
    I can definitely now confirm that after much use, the LiHD batteries keep a more consistent load on the tool. The 7.0ah also lasted almost three times longer than two sets of 4.0ah batteries when cutting 100x100 SHS 8mm thick. Loving this tool! Just wish metabo would hurry up and release the 8.0ah batteries!
  40. 1 point
    A good corded grinder if you do not already have one. They are lighter and smaller but still powerfull compared to the battery brushless version.
  41. 1 point
    If Uncle Rob narrated my life as a plumber: https://t.co/ihGV3BaN9Z via @YouTube
  42. 1 point
    It may help to put this specific example here as well in saying that impacts are not exactly the answer to all screw driving applications. If someone is expecting to drive in painted exposed fasteners, as I have before, an impact will hammer on the screw, removing a lot of the paint, compared to a regular drill, or even a screwdriver if it's that particular. I just brought up this example because all the manufacturers push the impact as the answer-all to every driving scenario. Don't have to get into that mindset that you must have a drill with an impact, the drill was all I was used to growing up, and mostly corded ones at that. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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