Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    errrrrrrrr..... no. The “actual staff”. Welcome to the forums dude. Feel free to post as much as you would like. Feel free to “all caps” it up. Do not edit your post. Do not edit your subject title. Sorry for the persnickety comment to your very good post. This isn’t normally how we conduct ourselves on the forums. Now to get on to your query... I have several 60v batteries in my shop and have never seen a boot made available before though truthfully I haven’t looked for one. Maybe try “Etsy”? Sorry! Chris....AKA “THE ACTUAL STAFF”
  2. 4 points
    I guess I should ignore the superior power I get from my FlexVolt tools with 15x 21700 cells compared to my Makita tools powered by 10x 18650. 20x 18650 isn’t too bad but let’s get real. 21700 has a number of advantages over 18650.
  3. 3 points
    I scored this off 5miles for $230. Super happy with it. I've seen lots of differing opinions on this mower. Some have made it sound like it's a piece of junk....namely the ridiculous video Dirt Monkey did calling it '1st place for the worst mower of the year' while proceeding to run it in mulching mode through deep, wet grass. Ok, news flash - pretty sure DeWalt didn't intend it to perform in heavy wet grass. It's not a head-to-head competitor for gas mowers. It's advertised as 'perfect for properties up to 1/4 acre'. Common sense would also indicate that since it's battery powered, that 1/4 acre wouldn't be comprised of high wet grass. Dan and Eric noted how run time sucked with the 5ah batteries. I definitely believe that. With the Flexvolt batteries though, it's great. I ran it with the 9ah Flexvolt batteries and was able to mow my entire yard with juice to spare. I then took those same two batteries out of the mower and put one in the new Flexvolt blower and the other in the 20v trimmer and was able to trim, edge and blow everything and still had juice left. So does this thing suck? With the 5ah batteries, yeah, the RUN TIME probably does. With the 9ah though, it's great. I have about 10 Flexvolt batteries and after reading/watching the "horror stories", I figured I'd be going through all of my batteries. Pretty happy that one pair gave me enough juice to mow, trim, edge and blow. The cut quality is also very good. I have thick St. Augustine grass and it cut great. The mower is also very light, even with the steel deck. Bottom line, I love this thing and am completely happy with it.
  4. 3 points
    I’ll be tied up for a while and will not be checking in as frequently as I do for a while. We had a new addition to our family and my daughter, Lillian, decided to come to us early like her Big Brother William. We will be in the NICU for a while, diagonally across from Williams NICU room but my beautiful Wife and Daughter are getting better. Reach out to @Eric - TIA if there are any issues if I don’t respond to requests. Thanks, Chris
  5. 2 points
    Think they’re made in Germany too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 2 points
    It looks like there's an updated brushless 12V drill in Europe, including a flexiClick version. 35Nm and 1,750rpm (previously 1,300rpm). https://www.bosch-presse.de/pressportal/de/en/more-powerful-than-ever-before-bosch-flexiclick-12-v-–-now-with-a-brushless-motor-191168.html
  7. 2 points
    I would look if the battery contacts on the tool are dirty corroded or bent.
  8. 2 points
    A bolt torqued to 250 ft/lbs takes more than 250 ft/lbs to break it loose. Static friction vs kinetic friction.
  9. 2 points
    Old lxt tools didn't have protection circuitry built in I believe, so they could not handle higher ah batteries. If the tool does not have the star, or the terminal connection part is yellow as seen on the other tool not all batteries will work. I believe only 3ah batteries will fit on these older tools. If you are now using other batteries on these tools I think you just need to be careful not to over discharge them.
  10. 2 points
    While the 5.0ah with 18650 cells is pretty good combination of size and runtime there are definately tools that can benefit from higher ah batteries. I personally think this newest wave of compact 4.0ah and 8.0ah batteries with the 21700 cells will be a game changer on my jobsites. Makita is free to do what they want but I think they're doing their customers a disservice ignoring battery tech that's out and available.
  11. 2 points
    Yesterday my new TD171 from Japan has arrived. The unit is great but I found out that bit has about 5 mm in/out play in chuck. Then I found this photo: Chuck is deeper to be able to use longer NZ type bits (I haven't seen this bits yet). Is anybody using the 322279-6 "bit-piece" with impact driver? Does it eliminate the in/out play? BTW I love that there is nearly zero wobble play even with longer bits. The double bearing setup at the chuck is big improvement.
  12. 2 points
    When my business was larger and I had guys working for me I would buy Ryobi all day long. Theses guys didn't care how they abused them and they didn't have to pay for them. They worked well got the job done and when it took a dump it was cheap to replace. Fast forward to today it's just me and a helper I'm deep into Milwaukee but I have a few of the other colors thrown in there. The bottom line is buy what you like and what works best for you.
  13. 2 points
    Hey fellas. Please accept my sincere apologies. I'm typically a very non confrontational guy and possess a true passion to both learn from others and also offer knowledge when I can. I tried to express that in earlier posts in this thread while undergoing some badgering. A few too many personal digs towards me allowed me to react very negatively. I do not apologize even slightly to who it was directed at, but to the many good members of this forum and the moderators I'm genuinely sorry. I will prove my worth on this forum to y'all. I value everyone's opinions and contributions as I always have. Differences of opinion can be very constructive when approached in the right manner. I'm making it a point to learn from this and look forward to learning many things to come from all of y'all that share my passion.
  14. 2 points
    Sad to see this unfold, I'm not as active as I once was. I appreciate all of the modern tool systems, being just old enough to have used fairly archaic cordless tools in the past (DeWalt/B&D Univolt--have my Ranger kit in the garage as I type this, though the batteries are shot as should be expected). I took my Gen 1 M18 Fuel saw (2731?) and my Flexvolt wormdrive-style saw outside yesterday to cut up some treated 2x6" for the fire pit. Both worked fine, though the latter was noticeably more powerful. The last time I used my Ridgid brushless circular saw I was impressed, though it lacked the power of either of the aforementioned saws. In short, we can't go wrong with any of the primary modern brands. I own DW 20v, 12v, 8v, and a sole 18v recip saw; M12 and M18, Ridgid 18v, and Ryobi 18v. Had a Bosch 12v drill but gave it to my daughter. If I were still in construction I'd be glad to use any of my platforms...based on what I own, though, I'd use Milwaukee if I were still an auto or material handling equipment tech.
  15. 2 points
    Email Ridgid a video of yourself explaining that your the ultimate Ridgid fanboy and keep your fingers crossed. Was also sent some Ridgid thongs for the Mrs but I decided to toss them in the old tool trailer and use them for dust masks.
  16. 2 points
    Picked one up yesterday. Took a pic to show how it compares in size to the others. It's the longest with the previous 60v next, then the 20v. The thing moves a ton of air and feels more balanced and less bulky than the previous 60v one.
  17. 1 point
    They don't sell the compact 1/2" hog ring as a bare tool. So when you find a new one on ebay for half price you have to buy it.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    The “covers” on batteries in HD are to prevent theft. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
    I have written the following to DeWalt. Let's see what the response will be. I have a Flexvolt battery that failed. After charging it only shows 1 bar. I went to turn it in for warranty and the technician asked where I store the battery when not in use. I indicated that I stored it in my home workshop. After testing the battery he indicated that it had failed because I did not charge it on a monthly basis. He said, "If you don't eat for a week, what happens?" I responded that I get weak and ill. He said the same applies to the battery and that they fail if not charged at least monthly. I think that this is a real problem for DeWalt if this is true. There is no warning or instructions that this is necessary. I also saw two others at the warranty center returning batteries for the same reason. This seems to be an issue. How will deWalt handle this? What if I have other batteries fail? How long will you honor the warrantees on these batteries? Please advise Ray
  21. 1 point
    Hi! I'm new to this forum and hoping y'all can help me with my issue. I was given a pre-owned 10pc Ryobi tool set. Awesome, right!? Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the drill and impact driver to work, even tho all the other pieces function. The Ryobi tools are the older blue ones, not the newer green ones. The battery is P102 one+, which doesn't seem original to the set. I feel like this is a battery issue but am perplexed, since all of the other tools work with it. The impact driver is P230 and the drill is SA1802. I realize the drill and driver could be 'bad,' but being that two tools have problems (not just one), it makes me think something beyond a damaged tool is going on. The guy who gave me the tools, was given them by someone else and he never used them, so he has no info for me about why those items don't work. I do have 8 functioning tools, which is great, so I'm not complaining at all. I just wish I could get the drill and driver to work. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
  22. 1 point
    Link TOWSON, MD (June 5, 2019) – DEWALT announces the XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools, a line of five compact and performance-packed brushless 12V MAX* tools. The new line offers powerful, ergonomic solutions for a variety of applications including electrical, drywall, remodeling, automotive, metalworking, woodworking, and masonry applications. The new XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools from DEWALT include the Brushless 12V MAX* Drill/Driver, the Brushless 12V MAX* Impact Driver, the Brushless 12V MAX* Screwdriver, the Brushless 12V MAX* 3/8-inch Impact Wrench, and the Brushless 12V MAX* Hammerdrill. Specific details about each tool as well as a complete list of products is included below: The 12V MAX* Brushless Drill/Driver (DCD701) is optimized for use in small pilot holes and can handle up to a 1/2-inch spade bit. The tool is 5.97 inches long and 1.91 pounds (tool-only). It’s lightweight and fits in tight places. It offers up to 250 UWO (Units Watts Out), a variable speed trigger, and 2-speed transmission. A belt clip and a bright LED are included on the tool’s foot. The 12V MAX* Brushless Impact Driver (DCF801) works well with small fasteners and can handle up to a 1/4-inch lag bolt. The tool is 5.05 inches long and 1.75 pounds (tool only). It achieves up to 1,450 in-lbs. of max torque, making it a powerful, subcompact choice. The impact driver features 3 modes: High Speed, Low Speed, and Precision Drive™ Mode. Precision Drive™ Mode can pause the Impact Driver for one second before impacting. This protects the fastener and material surface, providing users with control during applications that require a high level of precision. The tool includes three LEDs on the nosecone, a variable speed trigger, and a belt clip. The 12V MAX* Brushless Screwdriver (DCF601) is best used with hard-to-reach fasteners that need the control of its 15-setting clutch. The tool is 4.81-inches long, 1.5 pounds (tool only), yet is capable of up to 200 UWO of power. It features a belt clip and three LEDs on the nosecone. The 12V MAX* 3/8-inch Brushless Impact Wrench (DCF902) with a Hog Ring Anvil is designed for hard-to-reach nuts and bolts. The tool is 5.11 inches long and 1.73 pounds (tool only), achieving up to 1,500 in-lbs. of max fastening torque and 2,400 in-lbs. of breakaway torque. It features a variable speed trigger and has 3 modes: High Speed, Low Speed, and Precision Wrench™ Mode. The Precision Wrench™ Mode helps prevent overtightening and run-off. The Impact Wrench also features three LEDs on the nosecone to help illuminate work areas. The 12V MAX* Brushless Hammerdrill (DCD706) is optimized for creating variety of holes in brick and block, but can also tackle smaller holes in concrete. The tool is 6.6 inches long and 2.04 pounds (tool-only). It’s subcompact, lightweight, and fits in tight places. It offers up to 250 UWO, 25,500 BPM, a variable speed trigger, and a 2-speed transmission. A belt clip and LED are included on the tool’s foot. In addition to the efficiency and performance offered by brushless technology in the XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools, the 12V MAX* lithium ion battery included with each tool kit now features a Fuel Gauge charge indicator. With a quick button press, three LEDs display remaining battery charge. The 12V MAX 2.0Ah Battery (DCB122) is included in kits, and the 12V MAX 3.0Ah Battery (DCB124) is available separately in single and double packs. DEWALT 12V MAX* Batteries with Fuel Gauge are compatible with prior DEWALT 12V MAX* tools and chargers and come with a 2-year limited warranty. For professionals looking for capable, subcompact tools that perform tough applications in hard to reach spaces, the XTREME Subcompact Series™ tools are the ultimate choice. Available in summer 2019, each tool comes with a three-year limited warranty, one-year free service contract, and a 90-day money back guarantee.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Hey Makita. Maybe you do not care. I own many Makita tools. It’s my go to brand but... if you do not come out with high output batteries I am gone. To another brand that has high output batteries. So get off your ass and stop coming out with tools and drop everything and come out with batteries with heuovos
  25. 1 point
    Yep you read that right... 88V !!
  26. 1 point
    Even has PB Swiss, the man knows his screwdrivers 👍👍👍
  27. 1 point
    None of them fit before; now they all do. I'll use the 4 A-h batteries with the jigsaw and periodically check its charge by putting it in one of the other tools that has the indicator. Thanks!
  28. 1 point
    All of my batteries (1.5, 3, and 4 A-h) fit on the saw. It's only with the jig saw that I have to worry about over-discharging - right?
  29. 1 point
    Look for the star! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    Old lxt tools didn't have protection circuitry built in I believe, so they could not handle higher ah batteries. If the tool does not have the star, or the terminal connection part is yellow as seen on the other tool not all batteries will work. I believe only 3ah batteries will fit on these older tools. If you are now using other batteries on these tools I think you just need to be careful not to over discharge them.
  31. 1 point
    The current generation of M12 has been around about 2 years, they are more than capable tools. I would hope Milwaukee would focus on improving older brushed models and other areas where tools are needed than redesigning drills that don’t need it. Today is their New Product Symposium so we may find out today the answer to your question. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  32. 1 point
    I bought a set of Kobalt metric combination wrenches for $18 on clearance: Taiwan manufacture. Very nice chrome, and each wrench is longer than the equivalent USA Craftsman I bought in the '90s: Lowes is blowing out a lot of Kobalt stuff at bargain prices to make room for all the SBD Craftsman they're bringing in. Downside is it's not going to be as easy to get warranty replacements any more. But for a set of wrenches this nice for only $18, I'll take the risk.
  33. 1 point
    Well, I purchased this morning, at FFX as they had some good prices on there 7 day deals Arriving tomorrow Wednesday DWS778 + stand + Freud blades 80T & 60T Hope its good
  34. 1 point
    Thanks - I'm trying to see if i can get a deall on the DWS778 with a Dewalt DeWalt DE7033 and some Freud Blades Just seeing if i can get a good deal tomorrow i looked at some in B&Q & Wickes etc today, but nothing seemed of very high quality - JCB, Evolution etc I researched some of the Bosch's are seem very expensive Also the Makita's i saw in B&Q they only had the Chop saw so difficult to go look in the shops and just really in youtube videos I hope the Freud blades are as good as some of the reviews suggest
  35. 1 point
    I was going to order the Bosch Axial Glide. Checked a local ad and the 779 Dewalt was on sale for $329. Wanted newer style without the rails sticking way out the back but for the price I had to try the Dewalt. Long story short, I friggin love this saw. Added the XPS LED shadow line upgrade package to it (led shadow cut line is FAR superior to a laser, needs no adjustment, and shows the full width of the blade). So now I have just under $400 into this saw and it's won me over. No knock, the latest saws are awesome, but this old school Dewalt delivers.
  36. 1 point
    I would have to research model numbers but something like these would fit your needs but they are not DIY units they are pro grade just like the DeWALTs. Bosch Glide Makita's Miter saw comes in 10 in or 12 in with cordless and corded models available. 12 in cordless might not be available yet but the other 3 should be. Festool Kapex. Expensive but good quality. We only have the 120 mm model in North America but there are a lot more options in the European market. Delta Cruzer. I don't know how quality this brand is now. I don't know how good this saw is but it might be an option. It is similar to the Bosch. Hikoki(Metabo HPT in North America) used to be Hitachi sells quite a few rail forward options. In both corded and cordless options. Any of these should fit your needs. I would look at each option and pick whichever one you think will be best for your needs. I think you will be pleased with any of these brands compact rail sliding miter saws.
  37. 1 point
    thanks ok, what model would you recommend, given my original post
  38. 1 point
    Got my pre ordered 6" grinder from acme today.
  39. 1 point
    I have a Bosch Model 1582 Barrel grip and a power off issue I thought had to be the trigger assembly ended up being the power cord, shorting out where it entered the saw.
  40. 1 point
    That sound is the sanding Festool gods raining unholy hell upon what lay beneath the Rotex. I have a Rotex 150 and when you have the gear driven mode on it sounds like a big block V8 with open headers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
    There needs to be an AA like group for tool fans. "Hi. My name is xxxx. I obcess about buying brand x tools. I get visibly upset if somebody says something good about another brand." It is Ford vs Chevy all over again. People constantly put them selves in groups to fight over something. It can be consequential like religion or ethnicity or red vs yellow. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    My neighbor is an HVAC contractor on new construction. He was working on unit in his back yard with a Ryobi drill/screw gun. I said nothing but it struck me as strange that a "pro" was using home owner grade tool. I guess it is time to be less judgemental over people's choice of tool brands. You use what works for you and stop worrying about what others think. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  43. 1 point
    I own a couple corded belt sanders but this little fella would be perfect for making small adjustments to counter tops and vanity tops. On my radar as a tool to pick up for sure.
  44. 1 point
    I bought an acetate handle screwdriver set and happily wasted too much time making a rack for it: The recesses ensure they stay put until they're lifted, and the slots let me take them out without lifting them all the way.
  45. 1 point
    Looks like you will have to get the gen 2 tough system. I don't know much info on them yet.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    There's no doubt that I prefer Ridgid for my cordless platform, but as stated, I own very few of their corded tool. I'm a fanboy of good tools regardless of who makes them. Appreciate your opinion though...
  48. 1 point
    Got tired of not having a hook on my reciprocating saw. Put on a hook made for hitachi air gun. Hook cost $12 on ebay.
  49. 1 point
    Lots of misinformation here. A breaker is no longer just a breaker. There are three different devices: breakers, GFCIs, AFCIs, and they detect and do different things. There is no one size fits all. I’ve “fixed” a lot of situations where somebody felt they were doing the right thing for instance by putting in combination AFCIs (and the moron inspector pushed for this) for ALL breakers in a machine shop! Not only is it not required but it caused all kinds of problems. First a 15 A breaker is not 15 A. Actually they are rated to trip between 80 and 100% of that number so at 12-15 A after a while (generally minutes). This is due to a small heating element that heats up and bends a bimetallic strip until it trips due to an overload which based on the description isn’t happening. So a tool rated for a 15 A circuit will be 12 A max. A true 15 A tool has one prong 90 degrees from the other one so it can only plug into a 20 A receptacle and can go up to 16 A. I’ve seen a few IT UPS systems with it. Using a 20 A breaker and 15 A receptacles or 20 A receptacles (these are dual rated) and heavier wire is Code and often done in garages and kitchens for a little extra margin but that’s not your issue. It’s easy to do and a cheap upgrade but doesn’t solve an issue that’s not overload. Second standard breakers are thermal-magnetic. There is a solenoid too that is set so that if the current exceeds 10 times the rated current so 150 A, it trips as soon as possible, generally in about 1/60th of a second. In industrial systems this is adjustable but this situation is residential where it isn’t. During starting the coils in the motor have to build up a magnetic field. At that point it’s just a coil of wire so it’s almost a dead short. There is an initial inrush that is very high, up to 17 times rated current by Code but I’ve measured some European motors at 22 times. These are very problematic with today’s industrial plant breakers. The inrush current is independent of the load. Industrially with faster breakers in common use these days as well as very high energy efficient motors with very high inrush, nuisance tripping is a common issue. But on ordinary breakers without microprocessor tripping (under 100 A) this is not an issue. Once this passes the motor is stalled (0 speed) so it pulls heavy starting currents. Stall current is still very high, 6-10 times rated current, but it’s low enough the breaker won’t trip. That’s a hint why the breaker magnetic trip is 10 times the rating, to avoid motor stall currents. On most motors within about 2-6 seconds it gets up to speed and the current drops down to nameplate or less. This will not trip the breaker normally because it takes time for the wire (and the breaker heater) to warm up so these initial surges go through without causing a trip except in a true overload condition say with a stalled motor or too many things plugged in. So inrush and stall should not be a factor and measuring “peak” or “inrush” current is just going to confuse things unless it finds a shorted motor coil. The GFCI comments are getting there but way off. A GFCI has two current sensors. One is on the hot and one on the neutral. Ground is not monitored and voltage has nothing to do with it. If the hot and neutral currents differ by even a few milliamperes (around 0.010 A but I forgot the exact number) again in about 1/60th if a cycle it trips. Inductive loads work just fine. The trip circuit is very simple but GFCIs tend to drift out of calibration pretty easily especially as cheap and mass produced as they are. The problem is it takes very little leakage to set the GFCI off so even very subtle problems are hard to spot on top of cheaply built GFCIs. As motors age the varnish gets cracked and crazed from heating and cooling. Then moisture and dirt gets in the cracks causing leaks which trips the GFCI but is really hard to diagnose with an ordinary meter. You need an insulation resistance meter known in the trade by the most famous brand name, Megger. Finally the latest one and this is a nightmare is the AFCI. An arcing fault has a minimum arc voltage which is pretty high when the arc ignites. Then as the current (not voltage) goes through zero (AC does this 120 times per second) the arc goes out then restrikes again as the voltage gets high enough. The current waveform looks like a squarish wave because of this on/off pattern. Simple electrical circuits won’t work. Various microprocessor programs are used to detect it. This explains the price...you are buying a computer stuffed in a breaker. There are lots of things even just semi-slow starters or the very quick current increase on starting that the AFCI often confuses so there are lots of nuisance trips with these. The worst are variable speed drives that basically have a “rabbit ear” shaped current that...surprise...looks an awful lot like an arc waveform. Supposedly GE has some industrial AFCIs that don’t trip with variable speed drives but my success rate on making one work is 0.0% and I’m a drives specialist for a motor shop! If you have one on your garage, get rid of it! It is not Code required for a reason in that location. The requirement is: “All 120 volt, single-phase, 15- or 20-amp branch circuits supplying outlets [includes both lighting outlets and receptacle outlets] and devices [including switches] installed in dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry rooms, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected.” Garages, shops, and outdoor locations are purposely not on the list. That doesn’t mean GFCI might be required and as I mentioned earlier, that’s not an issue. So suggestions are: 1. Check if it’s GFCI, AFCI, or regular breaker. 2. If it’s AFCI try plugging it in somewhere else with a GFCI. If it works, the issue is improper installation. Replace AFCI with GFCI. Get a credit for it. AFCIs are double or triple the cost of GFCI. If it trips, there is something wrong with the tool. Replace or repair. 3. If it’s GFCI again try somewhere else. Otherwise find an electrician friend with a Megger and test it. If it passes, defective GFCI. Replace. Again trying somewhere else may work,too. The trick is you’re getting an “instantaneous” trip but it’s unclear if it’s an electrical short, ground fault, or arcing fault, or a nuisance trip. Need to narrow down the cause. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  50. 1 point
    Well I made the leap and picked up my very own M18 table saw! Wow this is a really nice machine, I checked it for square and also the 45 degree adjustment and only made very minor adjustments. I'd have to say that the biggest adjustment I had to make was to the scale for the fence but even it was off probably 1/16th at the most. Used it for a quick project in the house over the weekend, and though I validated the measurements I used the installed (and recently calibrated scale) for my setup and it cut the exact measurement perfectly! Had to order the stand separate since they were all out at my local HD but I am liking this baby. I installed a 40 tooth Diablo blade since it makes such gorgeous cuts and have been very satisfied with the results. Can't wait to put to some real use. I am not in the business I'm a DIYer but I will be leading a group of guys as we do some major renovations to our newly acquired church so anticipating the need I wanted to get this thing home and get it adjusted and tested so when our project starts it's ready to go.
  • Create New...