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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    It's all preference. Some like a squishy handle. Some like hard. Some like very ergonomic Ger designs but they are fat and don't get into narrow spots. Some like the huge old U shaped antique auger things. Personally I believe some of it may be hand shape. I find the Kraftform shape very awkward but I have long skinny fingers. It is also task specific. For large fat screws such as on doors I carry a large portion "impact rated" (can hit the end with a hammer with no damage) screwdriver with a 3/8" flat blade that I can also pry with. The handle is wide with lots of leverage. Intermediate most of them are 1000 V rated insulated screw drivers with rubber cushion handles. I don't like any of them and the blades and insulation are constantly a problem but I've tried several brands with the same result. Mostly in this category outside of those is a Klein 5 in 1. There is something about that particular model that works well and is very comfortable. Very popular with maintenance technicians. The others (11 in 1, 7 in 1) either have junk bits or junk handle. But all of these have serious accessibility problems. A lot of electrical controls locate the screws in extremely inaccessible spots. The screw drivers so far are either too large or too short to reach. That's when I reach for precision style screwdrivers. They are narrow and long, most with a rotating end so you can put pressure on it to hold it in until either the screw moves or the Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  2. 1 point
    Use the Allen wrench in the side of the magazine. Undo the two bolts at the nose that hold the nose to the magazine. As soon as you release the tension, the driver should slide back. You may have a bent nail to pull out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 1 point
    Tow truck driver in Fairbanks Alaska where it gets -40 f my dewalt 20 vmax batteries stay in my trk outside overnight and I've never had a problem with the batteries or the half inch impact they run dewalt makes some of the most durable cordless tools out there Milwaukee usually perform better but don't last as long in abusive environments go ahead and drop your dewalt in the dirt and it will keep working way longer than a red tool dropped in the same dirt
  4. 1 point
    Gilbert, the Chuck is the part that turns and tightens against the drill bit used for drilling holes. If you need to replace just that part tgen you need to loosen the screw inside. Open the jaws, there should have been three, then look down inside the opening between the jaws. You should see a screw head. It many use a Torx, Phillips, or star drive bit to loosen. Most turn clockwise to loosen as opposed to counterclockwise like a normal screw. Hold the chuck firmly which may even require a Channel lock type wrench. Before removing the screw completely, tap it while still holding the chuck, to help loosen it from it's shaft. Slide the new chuck on the shaft, insert and turn the screw counter clickwise to tighten it. Hope this helps you out.
  5. 1 point
    I had the same problem and called Milwaukee tech support. He said there is a protective coating on the terminals and you have to "slam" them in several times to get a good connection the first time. then you should be fine.
  6. 1 point
    Stay away from this Makita mower at all cost. Go for a petrol one if you don't want a headache. The engine stopped when it gets to a thicker patch of grass instead of cranking up the engine as claim. The fully charged brand new battery only lasted 15-20mn on thin lawn with mulching in place. It will be less if you have catcher on. Bought it from Mitre 10 Mega Palmerston North, New Zealand. Terrible service from them.
  7. 1 point
    It's all about context. Most UK users in modern housing have 50 to 100m2 lawns. They would consider a 46cm mower way too big, a petrol mower to be way too heavy, and petrol mowers are way more expensive than electric. That's why most UK retail mowers are electric in the range 34-40cm, many of them will be hover mowers which are much easier on small lawns than wheeled models. If you have already have the batteries, then a bare Makita cordless costs roughly the same as corded and saves messing around with extension cables. In my particular case, I have two lawns to cut. One is up steep steps, the other is at the back of a terrace so I have to carry the mower through the house. Neither are suitable for a petrol mowers due to access and size of lawn, plus cordless means one less thing to carry from the vehicle to the back of the house.
  8. 1 point
    I don't see the point of this. This will probably cost twice as much as a gas mower, even though it's waaay less powerful, it's not self-propelled and has a very small cutting width @ 46cm... What's up with this new trend to make every tool run on batteries ? Why can't people understand that some tools are simply not suited for running on batteries
  9. 1 point
    It will have better runtime when the new batteries come
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