Bingobelle

Steven, I must ask you what you mean with Concrete. In my book hammerdrills are not suitable for Concrete, does not matter if it is corded or a battery tool and brand on it. For brick and other soft "stone materials", yes, they do work. But for Concrete? I´ve never been able to use a hammerdrill with good results in Concrete, Always using a rotary hammer drill. Maybee it is just a missunderstanding here because my skill in English language when it comes to building material is only basic. However, for Concrete ( the gray material that bridges, bunkers and fundaments are usally build of ) I must recomend a rotary hammer drill. Cheers!

But the new cells must only be 2,0 A hour. They are 5 in serie that gives 18 volt. ( 3,6*5 = 18 V ) and 2 amp each. The 4.0 Amp battery is because it is two "5 pack" connected in pararell. Anyway, of course you need more cells in serie to have more voltage if you want to keep the amp hours. Or you can still use 10 of the new cells in serie to get 36 v but only 2 amp hour. The tool will only use half the amphour for the same amount of workload but if you need more power but for shorter time you can have it. But of course, if you are going to use that extra power the battery cells will take a bigger beating due to more current drawn from each cells but only if the extra power you demand will be more than twice a much. ( the 36 v tool only use half the current at same workload as 18 v ) Not saying a 36 v tool is better than a 18 v tool but with 36 v you can have a stronger tool. Make a battery pack with 20 cells and you will have 4.0 amphour and 36 volt. cons is a bigger and heavier tool but i guess that goes hand in hand with many things. Imagine the new cells but with 4.0 Amphour in each cell! that would make a 36 volt batterypack with same size as the 18 v possible. But then again, the tool must be able to take that extra power and heat and probely that means a much bigger tool. There is always pros and cons I guess. Sorry for spelling and grammar ( scandinavian )

How come that 36 v does not produce more power compare to 18 v if the same amount of current is drawn from the battery? For example : p = u* I P= power u = voltage I = current Lets say a 18 v driver take 1 A. That will be 18*1= 18 w in power. A 36 v driver take 1 A, that will be 36*1= 36 w in power. So with the same amount of current taken from the battery a 36 v tool should be able to produce the double amount of power. In my world the bennefit with higher voltage is that you need less current from the battery and therefore you will have more runtime at same kind of load. If you draw 10 A from a 36 voltage machine the motor will produce 360 w minus some effecinecy losses in transmission and motor. A 18 voltage tool will only produve 180 w if the draw is 10 A from the battery. The battery is like a tank of energy filled with Ampere hour. For example the new dewalt 4,0 A battery. If a 36 v drill and a 18 v drill is using the same amount of current at a given workload the 36 v drill should be able to do the double amount of work. And if it is designed to handle the same amount of current before shutting down as a 18 v drill it should also be able to be twice as strong as a 18 v drill. And also, the amount of current that the machine is taking from the battery is not static at any way. The current draw depends on the workload. A 35 mm spadebit will use more current compare to a 20 mm spadebit ( same kind of wood and force putting down on the drill ). A supersized lag screw will take much more current compare to a tiny small screw. The difference is that the 36 V drill only have to use half the amount of current taken from the battery compare to the 18 v drill. So, double voltage give double power from motor at a given ampere usage or I´m missing something?

Of course I can tell you about the name. For many years I was very interested ( I´m still but not so active about it ) in old mechanical slotmachine and also electromechanical slots ( bally ) so I was a collector of these machines. The pure mechanical ones ( for example Jennings and mills ) was my main interest. 2008 I was going to get a nickname for the computergame call of duty - world at war and I was thinking what name to take. I looked to my left and my eyes landed on my Jennings eldorado slot and that particular machine has the Bingobelle theme. They can have all kind of names like Starchief, Buckaroo or the name of the hotel or casino they where used. So I thought , why not Bingobelle. That name must bring luck to me and being killed by someone with that nickname for the 10 time in a row must be very annoying. And actually I was very very good at that call of duty game.

If there is no visible wobbling on the chuck or the "jaws" when tighted empty it sounds good to me. Maybee the bits are bended. Anyway, try to get something truly straight about 5 to 10 mm long an se if that wobble when inserted to drill. Make sure the bore, bit or steel you insert into drill is straight. If ther is wobble that is easy to see with eye and it makes work hard you should definately change the drill. Of´course a handholded drill is not as perfect as a stationary drill but a lot of vissible wobble is not tolerated. Also, check the new drill in store before taking it home. The dcd985 is a very fine drill but on every brand a bad batch can sometimes pass the testing. I´ve bought several dewalt cordless drill both for myself and friends and one of them a dcd785 had a insane amount of wobble. I went to store to check a new one and that one was totally perfect with no wobble at all. I also bought a dcd780 ( no hammer function ) for a friend and that one was also perfect. My own drills are also perfect. So, if there is wobble, let them know and demand a new one. ( you always have 90 days customer gaurantee satisfaction )

can you take some kind of film so we can see how much wooble there is? Some wobble is natural and the longer the bit is the more wobble you will have. But the chuck itself should have little or no wobble. Take a film. To me it seems that those chucks ( third party made for most of the time ) sometimes are that not good and maybee there can be bad batches sometimes. The very unfortunate thing is that the bad ones can pass he quality test. Dewalt makes very nice tools but to be honest I think they should look over the quality tests and routines before the tools land on the shelves. Bought myself a dcd785 a year ago and that wooble was insane. I changed it and the new one was totaly perfect with no wooble at all. My dcd960 has no wooble and my small dcf610 has no wooble. sorry for spelling, not english born.

I´m not sure but I think it is not the same chuck on the 980 and 985. The 985 is a hammer drill and are using a another chuck. Further more, you do not need a metalchuck for work around the house.

I´m not a fan of impacts but in case like this a impact drill is better. It seems to me that you should have both a impact drill and this normal dcd785 drill. The dcd 785 you use for drilling and smal to medium size screws. The impact you use for big screws ,lags and bad screws like the one you described. So, how damaged is your drill? Hard to say, if you are lucky nothing have happend if the temperature did not go up to much.I gues that the coating on the armature went a little to hot. Anyway, use your drill like nothing have happend. If the drill start to be week and have a slower max rpm You can exchange the armature. It is very easy and not that expensive. But before changing the armature, check the brush holders. A very common problem on makita and I guess that the brush holders can melt also on a Dewalt. They are very cheap and easy to change. If you still have a warranty, use that. And never push the trigger like that, the current is very high through the motor in the starting moment with a highload ( in this case a stuck screw ) and therefore the motor will be heated up. The bad thing is you did this many times, not only once or two if I understood you correct. If the driver is not strong enough to do the work, use a stronger tool for the moment or a impact as I sad before. I know a big tool is not conviennent but if the tool is not strong enough, do not force it, get a bigger tool for the current task. Trust me, makita drills are not better, my friends have burned and destroyed numerous makita drills, saws etc but never one singel dewalt tool. And that´s a fact.

DCF 610 for easy task like screw smaller screws. ( as a electrician I have a very hard time to se the benefit of a impact ) DCD960 for drilling in wood. ( impact are worthless for drilling in wood ) DC 213 for light concrete drilling. For heavy drilling a corded rotary hammer like the d25602. As you can see I´ve never understood the hype about the impacts. Sure, for super size lags and big screws directly into concrete without a plug but otherwise? Well, my tools are the old generation and I guess the new 20v max is more convenient to use but as long as they are working I will keep them. The day they broke I guess I will se what brand is the best for the moment. But Dewalt has up to day never let me down. Bottom line, impossible to have only one favorite tool since there is not one tool in the whole world that can do all kind of different task.

I do not think such adapter is a very good idea since the tool is designed to run on 28 V. That means that the adapter have to convert 18 V ( there is no 20 V tool, se other post about this ) to 28 V. The 28 V tool will be very week if running on 18 V. Also I´m not sure how much the battery cell will be tortured to run a tool designed for 28 V and therefore also designed for heavier task compared to the 18 V tools. The 18 V battery pack is designed for less demanding tools. Further more the adapter must be designed to handle a huge amount of current when the tracksaw is being used for heavy task. Better to go with the 36 V line if you are using a lot of tools like the tracksaw. Personally I think 18 V is best suited for all kinds of drill but saws are better in the 36 V line. For heavy duty task when it is about using saws I still think a cord is the best solution, just like bigger rotary hammers.

Kjones Of course I understood it was just a very simplified way to explain it in. I know batterytools very well since I use them very often and also repair them now and then and also doing some text articicels for magazines in sweden about tools. But that way to simplifi it sounded to me so , actually i do not know what to write. Maybee it was something I missed since English is not my mother toung. I do not know. Anyway, Still I think there is actually a lot of things that do seperate the new line from the old line. Not only the pod and slide battery thing.

About fuelgauge, well, Personally that is not something I got a hard on but I guess that as most competition have it nowdays Dewalt feel thay also need to have it. 20 v in the battery and 18 v out in the chuck?!!! That was one of the most stupid explanations I´ve ever heard of. But, if it is true I will for now on only buy very cheap drills for a couple of dollars since they also will produce 18 v out in the chuck and therefore must be as good as a pro drill for 200 dollar. To make a long story short, it is more than the voltage on the batterypack that gives a drill the spec it has.

The 20 v max tools is Dewalts new tool range. Sure, some of them have a lot of common with the older line of tools but many of them are new tools. For example, the dcd785 drill/driver is like a all new product but the dcd985 drill/driver is more related to its predecessor. Biggest difference is the way you insert the battery, the older line is a pod style battery and the new line is using slide battery. Also, the new line will for sure get more news and development regarding new tools and so on regardless what Dewalt say. Now also new 4,0 A battery with fuelguage is comming to the new line and I really do not think that those battery will come to the old lone.

It has nothing to do with the gearbox. The problem if there is a problem is in the chuck. Before you exchange the chuck, try to twist the chuck quick into forward direction. Sometimes when you spin the chuck in or out when taking out bits or bores it can be a ratching sound from the chuck and then you have to "twist" it quick into forward position and the back by hand.

Well. some people love the impacts and some people do not like me. I do not like the sound they make and they are not very good to drill holes with spadebits and augerbits in my opinion. The use for impacts feels much more narrow than the use for a drill/driver but for some applicatio0n they are superior to a drill but personaly I prefer the drill/driver. Even though I´m a proffesional electrician working all days long and are using tools every day I found the need for a impact is very little. Even my friends working as carpenters do not use them and do not like them. But this is very personal. For a home user I think you should definately go for the drill/driver. That DCD780 is very nice for light and medium task but not very good for the extreme heavyduty drilling application like huge augerbits and big holesaws.