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Paddy

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Paddy last won the day on February 4 2019

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  1. As Hammer7896 said there's a little tab on the tool itself that can be filed off for higher capacity batteries to fit but you run the risk of over discharging the batteries. The older tools didn't have chips in them that would communicate with the battery to where it would discharge to a certain point and would stop. My boss had an older 6-1/2" circular saw that could only take 3.0ah batteries and it would keep over discharging them to where they couldn't be charged again. Luckily for him some were under warranty and were exchanged for free but others he was out of pocket for
  2. Great info from gtrgeo. When I bought my makita cordless track saw it was cutting too close to the aluminum also so I loosened the 4 screws underneath the saw and moved it out as far as I could and tightened one of the back screws to work as a pivot then moved the front in slightly so it has a toe in on the front of the blade and tightened all the screws. I may have had to do this a few times though to get where I was happy with it. In regards to using 6-1/2" blades I have found Concord blades on Amazon to work amazingly well, comes in different tooth counts from 18 tooth all the way up to a 60 tooth blade and can be got for under $20. There is one thing though, you have to change out the inner arbor flange to make the saw except blades with a 5/8" arbor. The part comes from their brushless 6-1/2" circular saw and costs around $15 but it means you can stay with using Concord blades if you happen to like them, they're not full kerf blades but they're a lot stiffer than the blade that came with the saw and any other thin kerf blade in the 6-1/2" range. I also picked up a norske fiber cement blade which has a 5/8" arbor and used it to cut sheets of durock when doing a bathroom and shower. Best way I've found to cut that material. I hated not having the scribe feature when using the oshlun blades so I tried different brands until someone had mentioned the concord ones and have been sticking with them since
  3. Someone on Instagram had posted a reading of only 79 cfm at the end of the hose which is the working part of the vacuum. Apparently it's 125 cfm at the vacuum so I'm wondering how it could pass osha regulations for using with a 5" concrete grinder
  4. Keep us posted on this. If you're cutting fiber cement with it you should use a dust extractor with it, that dust is pretty abrasive and with the screeching sound along with the blade being hard to turn by hand it could be gummed up with the dust
  5. I also watched a video from a channel called bauforum24 that was at the same show. It's in German though but if you watch it through a computer I think you can change the subtitles to English, can't change them through the app for some reason. I don't wanna post a link in case it's against the forum rules but since the new products have already been shown on YouTube then they're already in the spotlight. Shows a new battery from Bosch and some new cordless tools from Metabo along with the new festool table saw coming with the saw stop technology
  6. The way these new batteries are you can charge them up to full capacity, take them out of the charger and let them sit there for 6 months and they will still have charge in them to use. There's no reason to leave them in the charger after they've charged up if you're not going to be using them for a few months. You can top them up every 3 or 4 months too if you like but these new lithium ion batteries can hold their charge for a long time when not being used. The older ni-cad batteries used to drain down if they weren't used
  7. I have 2 cordless makita grinders and hand tighten the nuts on and then turn the wheel a little more but it's still really only hand tight so I can easily remove it and there has never been a time where it lossened up. The nut tightens in the opposite direction of the way the blade is turning so technically the blade should be getting tighter as its being used. Sounds to me like your grinder could be spinning in the opposite direction of how it should be going. Maybe some else would know if this is possible if there was a bad switch or the wiring got crossed somehow and making it run in reverse. There's an arrow on the top of the grinder head showing the direction of the blade rotation
  8. I'm curious why they mounted the blade on the left to where it's doing the cutting in a pull motion instead of mounting it on the right like a tuck pointing grinder and cut in a push motion. You can't see where you're cutting
  9. As long as you keep it plugged in then it could be ok but I'm not completely certain but I do know for sure that you don't want to keep the batteries in the charger while it's unplugged. It will drain the batteries. My boss charged up his makita battery on a job we were working on and when it was charged he unplugged the charger and left the battery in it. Two weeks later I went to use the battery and it was completely drained. Luckily it hadn't drained past the cutoff point and it took a charge again
  10. I'd stay away from the makita saws and I'm heavily invested in their 18v platform but they've really missed the boat with these saws. The detent plates are made of some soft metal like aluminum so after a few days of changing angles the detent will get bigger and add more slop. Makita haven't done anything to fix this issue. The rail drift issue is frustrating and the saw I used I couldn't loosen the set screws on the rails to try and tweak it so the saw was left the way it was. The table rotates smoothly for a a while until it's so hard to move that you need to hold the saw down with one hand while turning with the other, the fix to that is to loosen a bolt right in the center of the table but too loose and the whole table wobbles. We've been using a Dewalt DWS780 for about 5 years now and it's still accurate with no slop in the detents, they use stainless steel for theirs. The 12" flexvolt would be just as good
  11. Doesn't the Dewalt DWE7491 have some fabric around the blade cover to help with dust collection? I'm not sure if the flexvolt saws have the same thing or not though. We have both an older table saw from Dewalt and a newer DW745, the older one binds up when raising and lowering to the point at which we feel the handle is going to break. On our saw it seems to bind on the the rods at the back of the saw. So if you can imagine the front of the blade housing is going down quicker than the back of it so it binds on the rod/rods. You should be able to reach around and pull on that part to release it when it's starting to bind up. A dry lube might help so sawdust won't stick to rods or the gearing mechanism but that only lasts for a short time
  12. And the Hitachi 10" table saws are on sale at acme tools for $300 and come with the stand. You also get a free blade with it too. I ordered a Hitachi 18v brad nailer and framing nailer and get 4 free batteries thrown in along with the oscillating tool through the rebate
  13. The Hitachi framing Nailers are also on sale and come with 2 free batteries added to kit
  14. Acme tools have Hitachi 18v Nailer kits on sale this weekend. They include a 3.0ah battery and charger and also come with 2 free batteries which are added in the cart and then when you receive the nailer you can fill out a rebate form to receive a free corded oscillating tool.
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