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Paddy

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Everything posted by Paddy

  1. As Hammer7896 said there's a little tab on the tool itself that can be filed off for higher capacity batteries to fit but you run the risk of over discharging the batteries. The older tools didn't have chips in them that would communicate with the battery to where it would discharge to a certain point and would stop. My boss had an older 6-1/2" circular saw that could only take 3.0ah batteries and it would keep over discharging them to where they couldn't be charged again. Luckily for him some were under warranty and were exchanged for free but others he was out of pocket for
  2. Great info from gtrgeo. When I bought my makita cordless track saw it was cutting too close to the aluminum also so I loosened the 4 screws underneath the saw and moved it out as far as I could and tightened one of the back screws to work as a pivot then moved the front in slightly so it has a toe in on the front of the blade and tightened all the screws. I may have had to do this a few times though to get where I was happy with it. In regards to using 6-1/2" blades I have found Concord blades on Amazon to work amazingly well, comes in different tooth counts from 18 tooth all the way up to a 60 tooth blade and can be got for under $20. There is one thing though, you have to change out the inner arbor flange to make the saw except blades with a 5/8" arbor. The part comes from their brushless 6-1/2" circular saw and costs around $15 but it means you can stay with using Concord blades if you happen to like them, they're not full kerf blades but they're a lot stiffer than the blade that came with the saw and any other thin kerf blade in the 6-1/2" range. I also picked up a norske fiber cement blade which has a 5/8" arbor and used it to cut sheets of durock when doing a bathroom and shower. Best way I've found to cut that material. I hated not having the scribe feature when using the oshlun blades so I tried different brands until someone had mentioned the concord ones and have been sticking with them since
  3. Someone on Instagram had posted a reading of only 79 cfm at the end of the hose which is the working part of the vacuum. Apparently it's 125 cfm at the vacuum so I'm wondering how it could pass osha regulations for using with a 5" concrete grinder
  4. Keep us posted on this. If you're cutting fiber cement with it you should use a dust extractor with it, that dust is pretty abrasive and with the screeching sound along with the blade being hard to turn by hand it could be gummed up with the dust
  5. I also watched a video from a channel called bauforum24 that was at the same show. It's in German though but if you watch it through a computer I think you can change the subtitles to English, can't change them through the app for some reason. I don't wanna post a link in case it's against the forum rules but since the new products have already been shown on YouTube then they're already in the spotlight. Shows a new battery from Bosch and some new cordless tools from Metabo along with the new festool table saw coming with the saw stop technology
  6. The way these new batteries are you can charge them up to full capacity, take them out of the charger and let them sit there for 6 months and they will still have charge in them to use. There's no reason to leave them in the charger after they've charged up if you're not going to be using them for a few months. You can top them up every 3 or 4 months too if you like but these new lithium ion batteries can hold their charge for a long time when not being used. The older ni-cad batteries used to drain down if they weren't used
  7. I have 2 cordless makita grinders and hand tighten the nuts on and then turn the wheel a little more but it's still really only hand tight so I can easily remove it and there has never been a time where it lossened up. The nut tightens in the opposite direction of the way the blade is turning so technically the blade should be getting tighter as its being used. Sounds to me like your grinder could be spinning in the opposite direction of how it should be going. Maybe some else would know if this is possible if there was a bad switch or the wiring got crossed somehow and making it run in reverse. There's an arrow on the top of the grinder head showing the direction of the blade rotation
  8. I'm curious why they mounted the blade on the left to where it's doing the cutting in a pull motion instead of mounting it on the right like a tuck pointing grinder and cut in a push motion. You can't see where you're cutting
  9. As long as you keep it plugged in then it could be ok but I'm not completely certain but I do know for sure that you don't want to keep the batteries in the charger while it's unplugged. It will drain the batteries. My boss charged up his makita battery on a job we were working on and when it was charged he unplugged the charger and left the battery in it. Two weeks later I went to use the battery and it was completely drained. Luckily it hadn't drained past the cutoff point and it took a charge again
  10. I'd stay away from the makita saws and I'm heavily invested in their 18v platform but they've really missed the boat with these saws. The detent plates are made of some soft metal like aluminum so after a few days of changing angles the detent will get bigger and add more slop. Makita haven't done anything to fix this issue. The rail drift issue is frustrating and the saw I used I couldn't loosen the set screws on the rails to try and tweak it so the saw was left the way it was. The table rotates smoothly for a a while until it's so hard to move that you need to hold the saw down with one hand while turning with the other, the fix to that is to loosen a bolt right in the center of the table but too loose and the whole table wobbles. We've been using a Dewalt DWS780 for about 5 years now and it's still accurate with no slop in the detents, they use stainless steel for theirs. The 12" flexvolt would be just as good
  11. Doesn't the Dewalt DWE7491 have some fabric around the blade cover to help with dust collection? I'm not sure if the flexvolt saws have the same thing or not though. We have both an older table saw from Dewalt and a newer DW745, the older one binds up when raising and lowering to the point at which we feel the handle is going to break. On our saw it seems to bind on the the rods at the back of the saw. So if you can imagine the front of the blade housing is going down quicker than the back of it so it binds on the rod/rods. You should be able to reach around and pull on that part to release it when it's starting to bind up. A dry lube might help so sawdust won't stick to rods or the gearing mechanism but that only lasts for a short time
  12. And the Hitachi 10" table saws are on sale at acme tools for $300 and come with the stand. You also get a free blade with it too. I ordered a Hitachi 18v brad nailer and framing nailer and get 4 free batteries thrown in along with the oscillating tool through the rebate
  13. The Hitachi framing Nailers are also on sale and come with 2 free batteries added to kit
  14. Acme tools have Hitachi 18v Nailer kits on sale this weekend. They include a 3.0ah battery and charger and also come with 2 free batteries which are added in the cart and then when you receive the nailer you can fill out a rebate form to receive a free corded oscillating tool.
  15. You can't really go wrong with any of the Dewalt saws, they know how to made a good one. I'd stay away from the new makita ones since they have what seems to be an aluminum detent plate so after a while they become sloppy and throws your cuts off, that along with the table getting super stiff as the grease wears off. I have the Dewalt cordless 7-1/4" saw and it's a great portable saw to have. My boss has the DW780 which we setup for longer jobs and that has been working great for us for the past 4 years without any issues. He also has the cordless Ridgid 7-1/4" saw that works good but now the light stays on all the time and drains the batteries. The key is to get a good stiff blade for those smaller saws since most of them are thin kerf and flex. This weekend is a good time to buy with all the Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals going on
  16. You've got the best of both worlds with having a 12" slider along with a 7-1/4" cordless. I've got the same Dewalt 7-1/4" saw and my boss has the Ridgid version. What's your choice for blades as they all seem to flex and lead to blade wander? I picked up a Concord blade from Amazon and that seems to be stiffer than most but haven't tried it out yet
  17. I'm curious if they ever upgraded the detent plate on the new saws that seemed to have been made out of aluminum so every time the table was locked into a detent they kept getting wider and wider until there was so much side to side play that you couldn't tell what angle you were actually set at. Also with the table working smooth for the first 3 days it was fine until it would get so hard to move that the table would slam into the detents making them wider. I've used the corded 10" verson and the rails are super smooth, it was nice that it could be setup against a wall and the dust collection was good but everything else was a huge letdown. The blade not being in line with the rails was a pain when trying to make any adjustments to your cuts. If you wanted to take a hair off one part of a board and using the side of the blade to line up your cut it wouldn't work because the blade was already showing that it was off right after making a square cut
  18. Paddy

    DLW140

    Or they could make an attachment to turn their current cordless metal cutting saws into a chop saw. Now that would be neat for metal workers that don't need the huge cut capacity of these bigger saws
  19. Paddy

    AWS Tools

    I have the makita 36v track saw with no aws feature and my way around it is buying a remote controlled outlet. Just plug it into a wall outlet and plug your vacuum into it and then use the remote to turn on and off as needed. With some velcro tape you can attach the remote to whatever tools you're using the vacuum with. I actually prefer to use it with corded tools too like a router so I can keep the vacuum running long after the router has stopped and clean up whatever dust is left. I have a Metabo vacuum with an outlet for tool activation but the outlet is always live even without tool activation turned on so I'll also run that through the remote outlet in the wall and means I can't start routing or sanding without dust collection unless I turn it on with the remote. Only cost me $20 and came with 3 outlets and one remote with 3 buttons on it
  20. Paddy

    Batteries

    Makita seem to lose performance in the batteries in the winter as well as other companies until they're warmed up. Keeping the tools outside in your truck or van overnight shouldn't be a problem but you might want to bring your batteries inside to where it's warm and they'll work fine in the cold.
  21. I have the corded version of the Dewalt track saw and had bought the woodpeckers track square which was a one time tool but it's not a set and forget option for any of the tracks it can be used on, you still need to use a good square on it before tightening the knobs underneath it and even then it's not 100% accurate because you're squaring off the rubber edge which could be all cut up or whatever. I've since gotten the makita 36v track saw and purchased the tso grs 16 pe square and that's a set it and forget it square as it registers off the aluminum edge of the guide rail which leaves it being accurate. I had often thought of making my own square which would register off the groove on the bottom of the track but never got around to trying anything, something along the lines of a miter bar with plywood attached to it could work
  22. The edge you're taking your measurements from would need to be square to begin with otherwise your cuts would be off and with the Dewalt tracks there's no good way to hold a square against the track because of it having two anti splinter guards
  23. I've tried a Bosch 7-1/4" 60 tooth blade in my miter saw and it works good while it's sharp, it's a thin blade so I'd be cautious of blade deflection as it gets blunt. You need to be careful using a framing blade in a miter saw because of the positive hook angle on the teeth will make it want to lift the pieces of wood up off the table whereas the blades that Dewalt designed for this miter saw have a negative hook angle which keeps the wood pushed down and against the fence while cutting
  24. Makita have a 16 tooth blade that comes with their brushed 6-1/2" saw. Also to the OP if you try ripping lumber with the saw and not using the rip guide it should let you know if the motor doesn't have the power anymore, a blade that would be out of parallel with the base shouldn't really matter as you'd be following a line with the blade and not the base plate or rip guide
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