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rrich1 last won the day on October 3

rrich1 had the most liked content!

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About rrich1

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  1. Redoing the sunroom and putting up new drywall so I picked up a Makita brushless screw gun. Also got a Klein tools multimeter. Now I just have to figure out how to use it. [emoji38] Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  2. Picked up the Makita 118" guide rail fro tool nut. Tool but running $50 orders over $200. Shippjng was only $25. Acme amd other places charge a freight fee over $100. Shipped from Makita and arrived in 2 days by Fed ex semi. Woot! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  3. why wouldn't you do otion b with the faced paper towards the warm side (interior) of the house? that is what i have always read and heard. I am currently doing a vaulted ceiling with the pro vent baffles and ridge vent combo. I installed them in my garage and s long as you have enough openings they should supply ample air flow.
  4. well that depends. some items are not built the same. others are painted differently. did it give any specs for both?
  5. Hmmm. slide out shelf would be easy, my only concern is the downward pressure when cutting and breaking the shelf hardware.
  6. Today was a good day. I got the first coat of tried and true oil/varnish on all of the drawers and the carcass. I did not get to the top a d the drawer pulls yet. I ran out of room to apply the finish. The oil/varnish really bring the air dried walnut to life. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  7. Sanded to 320 grit and then applied a wash coat of shellac on the drawers and top. I decided to try and make my own shellac with flakes this time. Overall it worked well but I feel like it was more streaky than using seal coat. Before sanding the wash coat down I will sand clean up the frame from any epoxy that seeped out from glue up and sand to 320. I also used an iron to steam out some light scratches and dents. In the pic the horizontal dent is Midway on the pic. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  8. Howdy. I try and post my woodworking projects on here semi often. Along with answering any questions that I can. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  9. rrich1

    What is this?

    Is it for upholstery hog rings? Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  10. Ever since I got my sawstop I have been looking to get a new dado stack. My hardwood store started selling Everlast saw blades a while ago but clearances them out this past week. I got this 30th dado set for $80 originally $200. Made in USA. I believe they are more of an industrial supply company so don't have the retail name recognition of other companies. Haven't tried it out yet. Also picked up the katz-moses stop block. It's really nice and should solve the problems of other stop blocks have with deflection. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  11. More pics Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  12. Update. I made the drawer pulls from Jon Peter's art and home design. Pretty easy to make. I then bit the bullet and drilled the holes for the pulls. This took a lot of measuring and re measuring. I made a jig to aid in making the holes. I started with the bottoms and worked upward. This allowed me to trim the top of the jig and reattach the cleat to keep it in place. I'm really happy with how they turned out. I can't wait to get finish on everything and see the colors together. I was worried about pulls hiding the wood grain vs a knob but these worked very well and don't hide anything. I then worked on the gaps (after pics taken). I'm pretty happy with the gaps and am not to the point of sanding everything and then adding finish. Some how this part always takes me the longest to get done. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  13. Routed the underside of the top yesterday. Will put either a mild chamfer or just break the top edge. Haven't decided yet. Also started to make/install the drawer guides. No pics but turning out to be a major pain so far. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  14. With the top all glued up it was time to put a curve on the ends. I made a template from mdf and plywood. I cut the mdf to the size of the top plus enough room for 3/4" piece of plywood on each side. I marked the center and every 1/4" to help with laying out the curve. I used a flexible curve guide to make the curve. This template is flexible yet stiff and has screw holes to hold the shape that you want. Once I was happy with the curve I used a flush trim bit to trim the mdf to the curve. The curve wasn't perfect and I used a sanding block to do the final shaping. After the shaping was finished I glued on the plywood pieces which allowed the jig to stay aligned while on the table top. I shimmed one side with painters tape to center the jig. I put the jig on and traced the curve a d the back line of the jig to reference where I would place the blue tape and to cut the excess off of the front. I then used the flush trim bit again on the router table and trimmed the top to the jig. This worked very well. The larger size of the jig allowed me a spot to start the bit to the piece. Before adding the bottom round over I am going to measure the top to the base and Mark my lines. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  15. The drawers are all glued up and roughly fit in. Some drawers were more finicky than others. In order to spread my time management out better I stopped working on the drawers and started on the top. I milled the two pieces down and cut them to width. I didn't quite get the width I wanted but it will work fine. I'm shy by just over 1/2". There is still an overlap just not as much. I used my newly acquired domino to help join the boards together. I had to stop at this point for the night. I have a small insect slot on the top side of the board. I plan to fill it with clear epoxy as it is in the sapwood. Should I go ahead and use epoxy to glue to top up or go with tightbond 3 with the darker brown color. I've used epoxy for everything else. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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