rrich1
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Posts posted by rrich1
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A lot of rechecking. Luckily when I cut them I made the space for the rails so I didn't have to be perfect. So all I had to do was cut within that 3/4" span. This gives the impression the rails are taking up that space instead of the drawer fronts being pulled apart to fill the drawer cavities. You can see what I am talking about in the pic.
I love this build so much, how nerve racking was it cutting the drawer fronts?
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Enough grain@JimboS1ice ? [emoji16]
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Thank youThat's a nice-looking box you got there.
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Good or bad week depending on how you look at it [emoji38].
First got the senca woodworking 1/2"-3/4" plate for the domino.
Next got the medium shoulder plane from verits during the Cyber Monday deal. I see no spot where it would be considered a "second".
Last I had been wanting a dust extractor for quite a while. The flex 9 gal vac had been on sale for $299 from acme and other places. It got as low as $249 from Tyler tool that I saw. I almost purchased it but held off. I woke up Monday and Google showed the 12 gal vac at $180 from cpo [emoji50]. I bought it right then and it arrived today. Needless to say they are now not even showing on the website, 9 gal still is though. [emoji16]
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Redoing the sunroom and putting up new drywall so I picked up a Makita brushless screw gun. Also got a Klein tools multimeter. Now I just have to figure out how to use it. [emoji38]
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Picked up the Makita 118" guide rail fro tool nut. Tool but running $50 orders over $200. Shippjng was only $25. Acme amd other places charge a freight fee over $100. Shipped from Makita and arrived in 2 days by Fed ex semi. Woot!
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why wouldn't you do otion b with the faced paper towards the warm side (interior) of the house? that is what i have always read and heard. I am currently doing a vaulted ceiling with the pro vent baffles and ridge vent combo. I installed them in my garage and s long as you have enough openings they should supply ample air flow.
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well that depends. some items are not built the same. others are painted differently. did it give any specs for both?
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Hmmm. slide out shelf would be easy, my only concern is the downward pressure when cutting and breaking the shelf hardware.
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Today was a good day. I got the first coat of tried and true oil/varnish on all of the drawers and the carcass. I did not get to the top a d the drawer pulls yet. I ran out of room to apply the finish. The oil/varnish really bring the air dried walnut to life.
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Sanded to 320 grit and then applied a wash coat of shellac on the drawers and top. I decided to try and make my own shellac with flakes this time. Overall it worked well but I feel like it was more streaky than using seal coat. Before sanding the wash coat down I will sand clean up the frame from any epoxy that seeped out from glue up and sand to 320.
I also used an iron to steam out some light scratches and dents. In the pic the horizontal dent is Midway on the pic.
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Howdy. I try and post my woodworking projects on here semi often. Along with answering any questions that I can.
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Is it for upholstery hog rings?
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Ever since I got my sawstop I have been looking to get a new dado stack. My hardwood store started selling Everlast saw blades a while ago but clearances them out this past week. I got this 30th dado set for $80 originally $200. Made in USA. I believe they are more of an industrial supply company so don't have the retail name recognition of other companies. Haven't tried it out yet.
Also picked up the katz-moses stop block. It's really nice and should solve the problems of other stop blocks have with deflection.
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More pics
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Update.
I made the drawer pulls from Jon Peter's art and home design. Pretty easy to make. I then bit the bullet and drilled the holes for the pulls. This took a lot of measuring and re measuring. I made a jig to aid in making the holes. I started with the bottoms and worked upward. This allowed me to trim the top of the jig and reattach the cleat to keep it in place. I'm really happy with how they turned out. I can't wait to get finish on everything and see the colors together. I was worried about pulls hiding the wood grain vs a knob but these worked very well and don't hide anything.
I then worked on the gaps (after pics taken). I'm pretty happy with the gaps and am not to the point of sanding everything and then adding finish. Some how this part always takes me the longest to get done.
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Routed the underside of the top yesterday. Will put either a mild chamfer or just break the top edge. Haven't decided yet.
Also started to make/install the drawer guides. No pics but turning out to be a major pain so far.
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With the top all glued up it was time to put a curve on the ends. I made a template from mdf and plywood. I cut the mdf to the size of the top plus enough room for 3/4" piece of plywood on each side. I marked the center and every 1/4" to help with laying out the curve. I used a flexible curve guide to make the curve. This template is flexible yet stiff and has screw holes to hold the shape that you want.
Once I was happy with the curve I used a flush trim bit to trim the mdf to the curve. The curve wasn't perfect and I used a sanding block to do the final shaping.
After the shaping was finished I glued on the plywood pieces which allowed the jig to stay aligned while on the table top. I shimmed one side with painters tape to center the jig.
I put the jig on and traced the curve a d the back line of the jig to reference where I would place the blue tape and to cut the excess off of the front.
I then used the flush trim bit again on the router table and trimmed the top to the jig. This worked very well. The larger size of the jig allowed me a spot to start the bit to the piece.
Before adding the bottom round over I am going to measure the top to the base and Mark my lines.
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The drawers are all glued up and roughly fit in. Some drawers were more finicky than others.
In order to spread my time management out better I stopped working on the drawers and started on the top. I milled the two pieces down and cut them to width. I didn't quite get the width I wanted but it will work fine. I'm shy by just over 1/2". There is still an overlap just not as much.
I used my newly acquired domino to help join the boards together. I had to stop at this point for the night.
I have a small insect slot on the top side of the board. I plan to fill it with clear epoxy as it is in the sapwood. Should I go ahead and use epoxy to glue to top up or go with tightbond 3 with the darker brown color. I've used epoxy for everything else.
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Drawers are all dovetailed. I started to route the grooves for the bottoms but it got to late to run the router and I stopped for the night. Pic of most of the waste. I swept up some earlier but it gives you a size comparison vs a gripper.
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Five out of seven drawers are dovetailed. Almost there!
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Drawers cut to fit. Most are tight and will fine tune once completed.
I am extremely happy with the alignment of the drawers!!
Now to my current state. I am dovetailing the drawers by hand. I had planned to use a friend's Omni jig but plans change. The fronts are halfbblinds while the rears are through dovetails.
My first set of rears I am not impressed with. The second set is better. The front half blinds turned out well but I cracked the front and had to glue it back. Hopefully it hides well.
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With the carcass done it was time to move on to the drawers. I found a big piece of ambrosia maple to use...I think it is anyways. There were two large cracks that needed to be filled as they were right in the middle of a drawer. I used black epoxy to help blend it in with the spalting of the wood. This worked incredibly well.
I then laid out the drawer fronts. I decided to cut away the pieces that the dividers occupy instead of cutting one line and making that the edges of the drawers. This gave me room to cut as the board was not straight, planed, or jointed. I used registration marks to make sure the drawers stayed in line. I transfered those lines toy cross cut sled when I cut the final sizes down.
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After cutting the front edges down this exposed a mistake I caught earlier before it got worse. I mis lined a mortise and cut too close to the edge. I stopped myself and corrected it but the damage was done. To fix it I took the off cuts from cutting the front edge off and made small strips. I put super glue in the hole and bent the strips into the hole. This makes it look close to a knot and not a hole. No one will even notice it but it is front and center for me to see.
Once that was fixed I put a seal coat of shellac on. I then epoxied the ends together. Once that was dry I epoxied the rest together. The drawer runners are not glued in and I don't think I will either.
While that cured I rough cut the lumber for the drawers.
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All about wood, show off them grains!
in Woodworking
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