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jackfinzo

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Everything posted by jackfinzo

  1. very well thought out if I can say so! Dust collection is a big factor for me and I am trying to sort it out as we speak... its the hardest part of woodworking if you ask me. Harder to sort out a good efficient system than any project I have ever taken on! May have to copy your idea when I get that far
  2. Yes that sounds like a good idea! So you are telling me any standard water or oil based paint I have at home I can run through the sprayer? I just may need to lower the viscosity
  3. Unfortunately, nothing came with the system for testing the thickness of the paint. So I guess ill just have to try it straight out of the tin and keep diluting it until its sprays correctly.
  4. Thanks for the heads up Jronman. Anything and everything will help me as this is completely new to me.
  5. Hi Jim, those issues alone are enough to turn me off it. Thanks for the info tho
  6. I bought the apollo 3 HVLP sprayer on black Friday as it was at a great discount. It's something I always wanted to try out and teach myself. You know how it is when you see a good deal it's hard to leave it behind! Anyways I opened it about 3 weeks ago for the first time and sprayed a can of water just to try it out and see what it was like. So far so good. I make a fair amount of MDF units that get handpainted and the idea is to be able to spray them once I get the hang of it. Also, I have two small solid popular tables that I'd like to spray either cream or clear not sure which yet! I think what I am trying to say is if I was to go to the paint shop tomorrow to get whatever I would need from start to finish in order to, 1. Spray an MDF unit cream. 2. spray the popular table clear or something along those lines? Please spell it out as clearly as you can as I have no experience with spraying! Thanks a mill, Jack.
  7. That's crazy!! Has turned me right of the Kapex! Nice saw by the way, wish I had the space for something like that.
  8. Thanks a mill for the replies guys. Although I haven't made my final decision I have decided that the Milwaukee is out of the question! My day job is assembling and then fitting kitchens, wardrobes and fitted units. But I like to do my own work on the side at home and hope to go out self-employed once my apprenticeship is over. I have a very small workshop at home but I'm trying to make do with what I have. Right now all my crosscuts are done with my Makita tracksaw and a homemade version of the MFT table (Basically an aluminium extrusion bolted to a table with two reference points for the track which are 90 degrees to the extrusion.) This is ok for the bigger stuff but an accurate mitre saw would be much handier for the narrower work. I don't have no sliding table or crosscut sled for my table saw as its a job site saw and wouldn't be accurate enough. This is where the Bosch would stand out over the kapex if you ask me. But then its huge downfall is when I have to lug it around onsite which will be getting more n more often I believe. Rich that is a very good point about the kapex being the same value as you table saw!! It's ridiculous!!
  9. Thanks for getting back to me guys. Ok yes, I believe the cordless is out of the question. My boss has the DeWalt 12inch saw which ever model was out 6 years ago don't know the model number of my head. I don't like it. I'm not sure how to word/explain it but there's give in the sliding mechanism so no matter what way u square it its only square one way if that makes sense. Also, I don't know why but I just don't like it as a saw to use. I would definitely own the Bosch right now if I wasn't concerned about the size and hauling it out on site. It isn't too often but as time goes on it will be getting more and more often. To be honest, with the type of work I do, the Kapex should have me covered it's just that I'm paying more for less capacity which I may want someday. As for the flex volt, I'm just not impressed with the accurcy of the dewalt saw so not really considering it although I do get your point. The Kapex has only come into consideration very recently. I haven't even done a whole lot of research on it. I had a quick look at it a while back and said no way am I spending that kind of money. Plus i dont own any festool tools as im scared ill get the bug and believe they are overpriced. Keep the info coming its much appreciated. Thanks, Jack
  10. Hi guys, I can't decide what to get... at first I was set on getting the 10 inch Milwaukee fuel imported( I'm in Europe, Ireland) As I firmly believe that cordless is the way to go. But have since started to change my mind based on 2 reasons 1. Dust collection is a huge factor for me as my current older DeWalt saws dust collection is shite! Therefore I'll be plugging the extractor in anyways. 2. I have no other m18 tools and I'm just not sure how accurate/stay accurate the saw will be when compared to the two I mention below. I'm a cabinet maker by trade so it's for clean accurate work is mostly what this saw will see. The capacity is for when cutting cornice/moulding or with the max width that I can cut an 18mm gable at. The two other options are the 120 Kapex or the 12 inch Bosch axial glide saw. Without any stand, this is approx what each would cost me. Kapex- 940 euro Bosch- 780 euro Milwaukee- 1100 euro APPROX import charges n shipping are a big factor Bosch Pros. Once set up should stay accurate with minimal flexing due to its design. Largest capacity Great for against a wall/someone's hallway Cheapest option Cons. Heavy/bulky for carrying around The potential for blade wobble since its 12inch(has anyone noticed this????) Kapex Pros. Presume its the best dust collection Easy mitre/bevel adjustments Lighter easier carry around Cons. Not as much cut capacity. Expensive for what it is I think? Milwaukee Pros Cordless-huge advantage at times but not sure how much I'll benefit from it. Light easy transport Compact Cons Price Hassel of importing Accuracy? Any help, info, reviews, pointers, personal experience or do's/don'ts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Jack.
  11. So what are your thoughts on a portable table saw for a woodworker? I know a lot of people who are stuck for space like me or are on a tight budget do it but what I don't know is exactly what kind of accuracy they receive. I do expect a lot from my tools, for example, I expect this to give me good reliable accurate repeatable cuts with a very accurate/solid fence that once set up correctly it will stay there! The first thing I will be doing is putting a new high-quality blade in it just to make that clear! As for the mitre slots as long as they are parallel to each other and I can adjust the table so they will run parallel with the blade I'm happy. I know better than to expect the mitre gauge to be useful for anything more that a paper weight. I will be making many jigs and probably buy a quality aftermarket mitre gauge. And also a flat table as without that I am completely wasting my time! I Have narrowed it down to two saws. But do point out any other saw thats along these lines that may be worth taking a look at. Bosch GTS 10 XC 254mm Table Saw. DEWALT DWE7491 240V 250MM TABLE SAW 825MM RIP CAPACITY. When looking at the at the couple poor reviews(only 2% give a one-star rating for the DeWalt saw) for either of these saws they are often due to things like previously mentioned... accuracy of fence, the flatness of table, mitre slots are not parallel. And even how much side to side play is there on the Bosch sliding table? It makes me wonder are they unlucky or is it that most people wouldn't check or even notice these things as they do not work / expect the accuracy that I and they select few do? I would greatly appreciate hearing what ye have to say mo matter what it is. I don't believe I am the only one in this boat! Thanks, Jack.
  12. Thanks for the reply and also for pointing out my mistake I accidently mixed the two up but have edited my post now. Thanks again, Jack.
  13. Hi has anyone got the DWE7491? Reason I ask is I want to get it but have a few concerns.... 1. I live in Europe. the European version has a very cheap/poor blade guard system compared to the American one. it also won't accept dado blades. 2. is it direct drive or belt driven? thinking I could get the European saw and buy the American arbor if its belt driven? 3. has anyone got the European saw and has changed the blade guard? or at least know if it is compatible? 4. 110v don't bother me at all as I use a site transformer anyways but the 60hertz in America rather than 50hertz where I live is a problem. from doing some research I believe Australia runs 50-hertz electricity and their saw also accepts a dado blade and has the better blade guard. the only problem with this option is that Australia seems to be fairly expensive in comparison to the USA. On top of that, i presume shipping and import charges will be quite expensive. Hope to hear back with some thoughts, any light shed whats so ever will be appreciated!! ( Anyone who replies please let me know what part of the world you are from as it will make a lot more sense to me as I read your reply/thoughts.)
  14. Yes iv done some more research and well my random idea just doesn't look too promising! It would of been nice tho!! Think ill go with the 3m earmuffs with the built in radio, ill just have to deal with the bulkiness! I have only ever tried the cheap earplugs but didn't find them much good nor practical for on site work. Thanks for the replies so far!!
  15. Hello! So like most of ye I guess, I hate wearing my earmuffs! I am pretty good at wearing them when I'm in the workshop on the saw but when it comes to being on site and putting them on to drill a few holes in masonry or using the planer I'm not so good. Or even when in the workshop assembling carcases with the impact driver. My main problems with them are they are too big, not comfortable to wear especially long term and can be sweaty . Main hate for them is when on site and I take them off my ears and leave them around neck between use on tools or to talk to another workers they are way to bulky and irritating. So I began thinking and came up with the idea of wireless earphones, seems like they have tons of advantages, listen to music/radio while working, small, compact, lightweight would hardly even know that they are there. My only main concern is would they even block out the noise . Would they actually be protecting my hearing for the future? Is there anything else I am overlooking?
  16. Hi I am wondering if the Festool track saw has the scoring feature like the Makita one? Specifically the brushless 36v model? From what I can see it doesn't have it to my surprise Thanks Jack.
  17. I have their old nicad gun before buying this new brushless version, to be honest I couldn't fault the old one bar the weight of battery's . But the new one is just fantastic.worth every penny as long as you mind it! I also wouldn't bother waiting for Milwaukee as Dewalt have the experience behind them and Milwaukee don't have that to fall back on!!
  18. Nope his guy is must bigger approx 2.5 horse power I think. Its awesome but it seems like a lot to spend on a router!!
  19. its this guy....http://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/power-tools/corded-power-tools-woodworking-machinery-bench-saws/routers/bosch-gmf1600ce-router.html I live in Ireland so it would be the European model maybe that's the confusion? Let me know!
  20. I couldn't agree more!!! I really don't want to go near Festool if at all possible. So after spending yet another evening humming and hawing over Festool I believe I have decided to put it on hold at least for now. Its an amazing system and I do believe I would put it to great use but it works out a fair bit more then the Bosch 1600 and I already see my Bosch 1600 as a big investment as is, especially after all the buying I am after doing. As I said I have the short Makita track and what I am going to do now is buy the 118 inch Makita track and another short one when I get the cash. I am also going to go ahead and buy the Bosch 1600 router with both bases (seems like the best router in its category and price scale?) I plan to then make a home made shelf pin jig as a complete separate system without the use of a track. What I do still want to get at some stage though is a adaptor/jig that will fit or I can make fit my Bosch 1600 and the Makita track so it can use the router for precise straight work? Any suggestion welcomed. Thanks a mill for all the help guys it really does help!
  21. OK so I have been doing a lot of research and think I'm confusing myself more than helping myself!!! I have the Makita plunge saw with one short track (59inch I think). I plan to buy the 118 inch Makita track very soon for accurate ripping 8 foot sheets. I also want the Bosch 1600 router as soon as I can afford it! I definitely want to be able to use the router with the track. So I went looking to see if there was something available for Bosch router to work accurately with Makita track. I then stumbled across Festools LR32 track with the holes and drilling set . Lets just say I now want it!!! But its very expensive but may be worth it if I can gather the money at some stage. That brings me to the conclusion of... 1) Will Makita plunge saw work on the Lr32 track with no problems? People say its compatible but they never said if its perfect or its a case of you can get buy with it if your stuck? 2) Is lr32 track and drilling system worth it? 3) Will the Bosch 1600 router work on the Festool LR32 drilling base? 4) Will the LR32 system, track and Bosch router work together on other tasks example routing a dado or is it only suitable for drilling the holes? 5) I see Festool also do a longer LR32 track, just short of 8 foot . So I was thinking if ye answer yes to question one I could just buy the long Festool track and not get the Makita 118 inch at all. BUT being just short of 8 foot seems very impractical as if anything it should be minimum of 9 foot so that I have some track either side of the sheet to rest saw on and also if I wanted to cut at an angle? As some of ye may remember me a while back making that large purchase of both Makita and Dewalts higher end cordless and some corded gear. I said I would review every item I bought in order to thank ye for all the fantastic info ye shared with me. I am still working on them Iv just been very busy and want to give the tools a fair run for their money before I speak!! I will keep my word though just may take a little longer than planned!! Thanks guys and I really would appreciate any info you can give me . Or point out anything I may be overlooking! Thanks. Jack.
  22. how do you mean by a good tensioner? do they break often? as i will not be able to repair or get them repaired!!
  23. what brand would you recommend ? what would the R stand for? i cant seem to find any 105 inch locally ... maybe i dont need 1/8 inch blade. 1/4 may be enough!?
  24. Hi Comp, Although I wasn't on line and didn't notice this until it was too late I do have a question you may be able to answer for me? I am actually building a wooden band saw at the moment (From Matthias Wandels plans) and am looking on line for a 105 inch blade. Below are a few I have found on line. I am in Ireland but seems that I will be ordering from USA as I cant find much over here that is suitable. I'm looking for two blades one for ripping and the other for fine scrolling work. I haven't figured out what "6h" "10r" "6 skip" "14r" etc means? For example I believe "6h" means 6 teeth per inch but I do not know what the H stands for? do you reckon any of the below are suitable? what do you think of the brands? im pretty lost when it come to band saws so is there anything else i could be missing? Details about All Pro Band Saw Blade 105" x 1/4" x .025" x 6H Details about All Pro Band Saw Blade 105" x 3/16" x .025" x 10R Details about Olson Saw 14505 Band Saw Blade, 105" 6 skip Details about All Pro Band Saw Blade 105" x 1/8" x .025" x 14R Thanks, Jack.
  25. dewalt 20v is great!!! even the older 18v dewalt is decent and you may get it at good price ... although i prefer to buy new and love my 20v brushless!!
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