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noops

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  1. If they're picked up by Home Depot the prices should be competitive. Or at least closer in Canada. If not they will probably be insane. Have to figure out if their rolling bag is worth a go or if I should wait for the bins. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  2. Dewalt has been out with their brushless beast for 3 years now. Milwaukee sort of answered their finishing solution with their own offering to seemingly mixed reviews last year but they've yet to have any kind of answers for a cordless framing nailer. Is it DOA or just really delayed? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  3. So is the shiny silver Freud blades the higher end blades? Just Freud and silver. I don't have a picture. But I'll try to get one later... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  4. noops

    Flexvolt

    When is this coming? HD has a 20V trimmer and blower kit with 2 2ah batteries for $299 CDN. It's tempting but not if it's underpowered and about to be replaced by this new system. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  5. What's the point of a one-key Sawzall??? Anti-theft is nice but different modes? I could see a ramp up mode that would somehow limit slip if that's even possible but aside from the initial bite into something new the trigger is always at 100% unless it binds and takes me for a ride. I don't see how it's beneficial otherwise. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  6. This probably is a dumb question to ask here but maybe someone has a brilliant idea or has come across a similar situation. I'm an electrician and while I've done integration and fancy stuff with Lutron and others this is slightly unique as I don't want it to be complicated but I do want it to work. The Situation... Homeowner had his ATV stolen and is worried someone will jack a boat off his dock next. So he wants something that will disable 50A lift, 30A lift, and 15A plug. If he could also disable the ignition for the boat that would be an awesome bonus. My initial thought is intercepting the mains and using a Lutron Caseta switch to turn on/off the things using a relay. 3 things so 3 switches. Interface would be the wireless interface using a phone or tablet. No pass codes or buttons or whatever on the dock. And since everything would be inside and disabled from there you couldn't bypass anything by taking things apart. You could go all the way and totally automate the lift and everything but I don't think that's necessary or a really practical solution. Sometimes you want it at different levels and the lake can be very high or very low so yeah. Over complicated and not good. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  7. No Toro love? Honda seems very heavy to me. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  8. Basement is the crawlspace. I'll put my P-trap just below the floor and then T above it for AAV and drain. This keep the AAV has high as possible - recommended to be at least 6" above the trap - and keeps the trap out of the way. From there will will tie into the main. I think it's bigger than 4" but maybe not. Certainly bigger than anything I typically deal with in the electrical world. Thanks for the advice Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  9. You may be better off running 3/2 Al. 70A is a weird size and #4 copper isn't a common commodity. With 3/2 Al you can get NMD and strip off the jacket or run 3/2 ACWU. In any case a 1" conduit may be an unpleasant pull as I'm guessing you have 2 90s? A 20' U? 4 is as big as you can go in 1" pipe so if you could do 1.25" it would go smoother. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  10. I'm adding a washer and dryer to my place. I have everything worked out except my P-trap. The new laundry sits over a crawlspace which is how everything is plumbed. Can I put my P-trap in the crawl or is there a maximum length I can go? The shower is down here but it starts lower than the washer will. I'm doing a mechanical air vent. Any tips or tricks? It's all going on the surface. That's why I'd like to have it in the basement. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  11. I picked up the Ridgid system case. Fits my M12 kit with 2 2.0 and 2 4.0 M12 packs, the charger, bits, level, fluke meter Marrettes, an assortment of screws, and other stuff. It would easily fit a M18 kit. Use foam to create custom inserts or to pack it so things fit snuggly. Works great and it's a sealed case so if it's close it stays clean. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  12. My brushed gets used all the time. No it doesn't have the balls that my Super Sawzall has but all I need is it and a 4.0 (or whatever) and I'm good to go. I've thought about a Fuel but the lil guy has never let me down and can get in places others can't. The handle ergonomics also make it great for cutting PVC or ACWU when doing undergrounds or dealing with service stuff. The M18 D-handle Fuel is a monster but it's crap for everything but demo or hacking out large parts. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  13. With a 9Ah pack this monster is going to be all kinds of expensive. It will be awesome but wow. Be even awesomer if it was a hybrid as Milwaukee doesn't have anything aside from the big bad 12. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  14. I was asking about the HF specs. 4.2A... Wow. Most of that must be heat. I'll have to see what my Red and Blue drills are. I think they're closer to 10A. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  15. What's the specs of that drill? Sure doesn't have the power of a Milwaukee boom drill (big bad D-handle) or a Makita 1/2" beast. I'm pretty sure my lil M12 Fuel non-hammer model could smack that down. Maybe a non-Fuel too for that matter. I've never worried about drilling a little hole like that before. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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