Jump to content

Drum

Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Drum

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location:
    TX

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Under Power Tools By Manufacturer, add Hitachi. Or change Metabo to Hitachi/Metabo. With recent and upcoming releases (Triple Hammer impact driver, C10JR job-site table saw, 18v finish nailers, NR1890DR 18v round-head framing nailer, etc.) -- plus the recent acquisition of Hitachi-Koki Ltd., by KKR (not to mention Hitachi's earlier acquisition of Metabo) -- Hitachi ain't going away anytime soon. In fact, they seem to be only getting bigger and better. (Never mind the legendary status of Hitachi's pneumatic nailers and fasteners on job-sites all over the world, since like forever.) Granted, Hitachi may not be marketing and selling their product lines in North America at anywhere near the volume and pace as DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, et al., but they do seem to be on an upward trend in this regard. Anyway, just throwing it out there. No fanboy here (not yet, anyway). I don't own many Hitachi tools, myself -- just a miter saw, a compressor, and a few nailers, and they have worked flawlessly for 5+ years. Other than that, I use a mixed bag of corded tools from Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, and Skil. I'm currently using the Ryobi 18v line, which has served me well for all my DIY projects and most of my professional work, but am strongly tempted to jump into the Hitachi line of cordless tools and beyond.
  2. Drum

    #worldsfirst

  3. Drum

    "Do not buy" thread

    Red Devil (a.k.a., "unbranded") plastic-cutting tool. I'd typically use my circular saw or jig saw, but I was curious whether quieter and less-messy could also be accurate or even practical. In this case, I got my answer all too soon. lol You can see my review at the Home Depot for the full story.
  4. Drum

    Howdy, y'all.

    Thanks, bud. Glad you asked.
  5. Drum

    Howdy, y'all.

    Nice! I don't do metal fences and not sure if I've heard of that company, but I've installed porch columns similar to the ones they sell. Super durable stuff. You guys up north have frost line issues; but, seeing that you dug 3' deep for a 3' fence, I'd guess you're well-covered there. Overall, it looks like a bang up job. I should take tips from you!
  6. Drum

    Lowes poor customer Service

    Hear hear. Lumber yards, wherefore art thou anymore. Oh, how I wish Menards would open a store here in North Texas. Their in-store selection of lumber and building materials is enough to win me over. HD associates in my area are some of the best in the business, but HD does a poor job of coordinating their inventory with their website. Items are discontinued, sometimes seemingly at random, and you'll never know for weeks on end. They'll just remove the price and pick-up options and say nothing more, leaving you hanging. For example, LP Smartside lap siding in the 12" x 16' size:
  7. The fascia would typically hang below the plane of the soffit by about 1–1¾". Most of the ones I've seen in my area are around 1½". Here's a pic of an overhang I repaired recently, showing the typical fascia reveal:
  8. Drum

    Howdy, y'all.

    Thanks, fellas. Carl, I loves me some toolz and have pretty strong opinions on 'em at times. My faves are my 3" Purdy Pip, Milwaukee utility knife, Hitachi 15-ga nailer, 18v Ryobi recip saw. The thing is, if I chose a favorite brand, I'd change my mind from one tool category to the next because my prime criterion is cost/value. (I don't do a lot of work that requires long-term, heavy-duty, abusive use. When I do, I just rent a Hilti etc.) I do, however, like the look of the red/blacks, silver/greens, and cobalt blues, but that's about as far as my tool brand favoritism goes. That said, if I were in a position to accept an endorsement deal... well, I might have one of those convenient, "sudden change of outlook" moments. lol Hey, we're only humans.
  9. Some "shop talk" for my fellow tradesmen, DIYers, and others interested in the important exterior details. Question/Proposition If caulking the bottom edges of lap siding and frieze board is a no-no, shouldn't the same apply to the fascia-to-soffit connection in a wood-constructed eave? Argument/Reasoning I've seen many good painters and builders caulk these areas and it always makes me pause, shake my head, and propose this very argument. In my mind, ventilation and drainage take precedent: the same reason we don't caulk the bottom edges of lap siding. And if moisture build-up and water infiltration can occur behind the gable wall, it certainly can get inside the overhang via roofing failures, gutter overflow, pressure washing, ice dams, etc. (For this same reason, years ago I changed my approach to fascia trim treatment after installs: never caulk the underside of the fascia trim where it overlaps the fascia — gutters or none.) One might say, "If soffit vents are installed, then your eves are getting plenty of ventilation." And I'd reply, "That may solve the ventilation issue, but not the drainage issue." If it's a continuous soffit-vent installed at the fascia-to-soffit joint, and the soffit was installed at a slight angle toward the fascia, then you may have your solution; in which case, this talk about caulking would be irrelevant. But, most homes do not have both (1) continuous soffit-vents at the fascia joint and (2) soffits installed at a slight angle toward the fascia. It may seem a bit trivial, or overkill, to grind out these details, but I've seen way too many cases of wood-rot and mold as a result of poor ventilation and drainage. And it usually stemmed from unnecessary, overzealous caulking and foaming. Now, I understand the "aesthetics" argument for caulking these areas before painting. You don't want the crack to show in case someone looks behind the fascia. But there are alternatives to totally sealing the joint. Solution/Aesthetics-fix If the homeowner decides the soffit-to-fascia joint is unsightly without caulk, then offer to install a tiny quarter-round molding or other tiny trim which would allow for ventilation and drainage. If the homeowner still insists on caulk instead, be sure they know the potential hazards before proceeding. Just. In. Case. And if the joint was already caulked by the previous painter or builder, then inform the homeowner of the potential dangers and preventative options. I certainly haven't covered every possible scenario pertaining to eave maintenance, and I'm well aware that an unsealed soffit-to-fascia joint isn't exactly the end-all in case of a roof leak over the soffit. But I'm confident that I'm technically correct here. If I'm not, then I'd be grateful to anyone who can shed some light on where I may have faltered. Thanks.
  10. Drum

    Howdy, y'all.

    Hello, all. Glad I found this place. Thanks for having me. Painter by trade and DIYer in everything else except foundation work, rough-in plumbing, and heavy construction. Favorite place to work is outside: exterior painting and light construction, lawn care, fencing, power-washing, car care, etc. Building science matters a lot to me. I'm a huge fan of Matt Risinger et al. "Build it tight; drain it right" — or something to that effect. lol Not a tool "fanboy." I own at least one tool from all the bigs, though I have more Ryobi and Hitachi than any other, simply for the "cost/value proposition." I guess that about covers it. Thanks again, TIA. Great site. Howdy from DFW.
×