Jronman
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Posts posted by Jronman
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Mirka has announced some updates to the Deos and Deros family of sanders with the new Deos II and Deros II models. There is some tweaks to the controls like a display to show what speed you are in and an extra 50 watts of power to the motor of each. It is a UK video. Doesn't look to be announced for North America yet.
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I ordered an Equipment Defender trimmer rack with capacity for holding 3 string trimmers or similar tools. I also ordered the Ego commercial straight shaft edger. I am hoping the new edger has more power. The one I have now struggles in heavy duty edging tasks.
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I have done the very same thing different brand. String trimmer was on my trailer, and the road was muddy. Long story short, my string trimmer was a muddy string trimmer when I got home. Fixing is not worth the hassle. You might be better off buying a new one. Probably not the news you are looking for.
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I wish I could help. I have had some decent use with either that model of Bosch or a similar model when I used to work construction. I had no issues with the pad coming loose. Is there a torque spec for the screw? Maybe a specific torque spec could help. I don't have any other ideas at the moment since you mentioned there was no sign of thread locker.
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8 hours ago, samiullah said:
I recently read a very informative blog post HOW LONG DOES A DRILL BATTERY LAST ON ONE CHARGE ? that discusses various factors affecting cordless drill battery life and offers valuable tips for maintaining and extending their lifespan.
However, I'm still curious about specific strategies I can implement to ensure my cordless drill battery lasts as long as possible.
Here are some questions I have:
What are the most important things I should do to maintain my battery's health? (e.g., charging practices, storage conditions)
Are there any warning signs that indicate my battery is nearing the end of its lifespan?
Should I invest in a spare battery, and if so, what factors should I consider when choosing one?
I'm hoping to learn from the experience and expertise of other forum members to optimize the life of my cordless drill battery and avoid the need for frequent replacements.Thank you in advance for your insights and advice!
[spare batteries] My recommendation is always get genuine batteries. ie the battery is same brand as the tool.
[extending the life of the battery] Keeping a battery out of extreme heat is probably the best thing you can do to help reduce the rate in which the lifespan of the battery goes down by. I like to at the very least keep my batteries in my insulated garage. I don't have the luxury of a climate controlled garage which would be even better. You could also take batteries inside the house if you had to. If your batteries are alreadey warm I would hold off on charging the batteries until they have cooled off. If the battery is too warm the charger should know not to charge the battery, activate hot/cold mode, and turn on the fan if the charger is equipped with one.
[end of battery life warning signs] The biggest sign of a battery being end of life is reduced maximum runtime. Another sign is the charge display on the battery might throw an error code. If it starts throwing an error code, it is probably time to think about getting a replacement.-
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8 hours ago, samiullah said:
Hey everyone,
I recently stumbled upon an interesting blog post that compared several popular cordless drills for their effectiveness in ice fishing. It got me thinking about finally making the switch from a hand auger to a drill setup for this upcoming season.
The post highlighted some key factors to consider when choosing a drill for ice augering, such as construction quality, motor type, battery life, and torque. However, I'm still curious to hear real-world experiences and recommendations from fellow ice fishing enthusiasts.
Here are some questions I'm hoping to get answers to, building on what I learned in the blog post:
Based on your personal experiences, which cordless drills have proven to be reliable and powerful enough for ice augering, especially in thicker ice conditions?
Beyond the factors mentioned in the blog post (link below), are there any other features or considerations you find crucial when choosing a drill for ice fishing?
Do you have any personal experiences or recommendations for brands and models that have worked well for you, different from those mentioned in the blog post?
Are there any potential drawbacks or limitations I should be aware of when using a cordless drill for ice augering?
I'm eager to learn from your wisdom and insights. Feel free to share any tips or recommendations you may have.Link to the blog post: 7 BEST CORDLESS DRILL FOR ICE AUGER
Thanks,
Sami Ullah
Ego has a dedicated powered ice auger. While you don't get the versatility of a regular drill, it could potentially be best suited for the job. I Makita has an earth auger that should work if you can find the right bit. Here is the link to the Ego. https://powerplusparts.com/collections/new-2024/products/ig0800 In terms of drill reliability I would go with a stud and joist drill if the dedicated ice auger is not something you want. Something like the Flexvolt gen 1/gen 2 or the Milwaukee Hole Hawg/Super Hawg should work. They are already designed for large diameter holes. A higher end pro drill could work too. Something that comes with a side handle. I don't know how demanding of a job ice augering is.
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16 hours ago, Altan said:
I would not say that, one of the problems with DeWALT is that every 10-20 years they push you to throw everything DeWALT you have and buy new DeWALT(s) even if the previous tools are still OK. A representative from UK Fein told me that if there will be a universal tool battery in the future for all brands, DeWALT would be the last brand to join!
SB&D has a hard time making batteries compatible between their own brands (except DeWALT and MAC) I suppose you could say the same about TTI. They aren't exactly trying to make Milwaukee batteries compatible between their own brands either.
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16 hours ago, Altan said:
You mean this? I think the blades for removing glasses for cars are only designed like these ones and you can not find them as Starlock or Starlock Plus/Max, but I do not know the reason. As much as I remember these type of blades were available in the past as well, so they are not something new.
Yup that is the one
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7 hours ago, Altan said:
Actually I got the Fisch hex shank brad point drill bit size 9mm from Amazon US, some of their sizes are only sold in US. The Fisch, Star-M and W L Fuller brad point drill bits are the best European, Japanese and American brad point drill bits that are made of HSS, not HCS and they remain sharper for longer time. WL Fuller does not make them with hex shank though. Star-M does make them in a lot of different sizes, but all are the same length. There is a German guy obsessed with German, Swiss, Austrian and Japanese tool accessories and he sells online as well and can post everywhere, his prices are much cheaper than half price from the other online sellers, if you want I can send you his contact details. He can find whatever you want, his advertisement in his unfinalized website is "Don't search, find!" loool
This extended hex shank is called Japanese 6.35 Hex shank I think and they are 4-5mm longer than Western 1/4" E6.3 hex shank. I grind them to make them shorter to become like Western hex shank. Or it might be the 5.5mm hex shank like the one with Wera bit holder in the photo. The other photo is the Star-M hex shank brad point drill bits made of HSS.
Now that you brought it up I do remember seeing one listing on Amazon for a hex shank Bradpoint Fisch bit. I saw no kits though.
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I was looking at Feins site today and noticed The Multimaster 700 (what used to be called the SuperCut) has two connection system options. Most people have probably heard of Starlock Max but has anyone heard of QuickIN? The model using the QuickIN blade mounting system is described as "Our best oscillating cordless MultiMaster for the automotive sector incl. extensive accessories for removing windshields and working on car bodies." Is QuickIN something that is a new feature? Why come up with Starlock just to have a different system shortly after? or maybe QuickIN was a feature before Starlock? Maybe there is a special feature QuickIN has that makes it better for Automotive applications? The only other difference I noticed between the Starlock Max model and the QuickIN model was the oscillation angle. The QuickIN model had a smaller oscillation angle.
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11 hours ago, Eric - TIA said:
That's a nice setup. I wonder if they sell just the box. I like the Festool drill but I have a couple of drills that I use I like that box and would like to get one. I like the setup with the bits on top and easy access. Nice.
Not only do they sell the box but you can get the box in 3 different heights. Here is a link.https://www.toolnirvana.com/collections/empty-systainers the listings should say lid compartment.
I would stick with Festool branded systainers with the lid compartment. Tanos also sells the same boxes in Grey and blue color scheme or all Anthracite color scheme but you pay a bit more. I'm surprised Tanos is more expensive. It used to be less expensive than Festool. https://systainer.store/collections/lid-compartment-m
Also here is where I bought the insert trays empty. They have them in stock. The above link also sells them but is sold out. https://toolstoday.com/systainer-83000566-bit-cassette-for-systainer3-lid-compartment-m-137-237-light-grey.html
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4 hours ago, Altan said:
Festool brad point drill bits are made by Fisch and you can get them with normal 1/4" E6.3 hex shank from Fisch as well, of course much cheaper!
The Fisch hex shank bits are not sold in the states. Disappointing but that seems to be how things go sometimes. We get products Europe doesn't get and Europe does the same. At least we can still buy the round shank bradpoint bits. I also saw what looked like to be an extended hex shank. I wasn't listed as centrotec but it looked just like Centrotec. I wonder if they are compatible. There is actually a pretty nice (round shank) 29 piece Imperial and 25 piece Metric brad point Fisch kit available here. I might pick one up if I think I need more sizes. It is only $178.99 for the 54 bits which is actually pretty decent deal considering how nice Fisch bits are. It does 1/16 inch to 1/2 inch in 1/64 inch increments and does 1mm to 13mm in .5 mm increments.
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By that same logic the half width Tough System 2.0 boxes aren't expanding the line either they are just compatible. The same could be said about any box that is a different height than another.
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My Festool CXS 18 arrived the other day. I have already kitted out the attic portion of the Systainer with an assortment of bits. I could have gone with a prefilled assortment from Festool but I decided to buy some empty holders and fill them with my own bits.I have a mixture of Wera driving bits, Festool Centrotec bit holders, Festool Centrotec brad point bits (black color) and some Milwaukee hex shank bits (gold color). I am considering doing a lid swap between the box the CXS came with and the new SYS3 Combis if they come to the states. They just came out in Europe. I would expect if we get them we will get them in the next wave of Festool USA releases. If I pick up a TPC in a few years I will probably do a different but similar custom setup for the attic if it comes with one.
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@MTBlades at least they replaced the battery..... eventually. I have had similar experiences with other companies too. If it wasn't a manufacture defect Ridgid wasn't required to replace the battery if I understand the LSA correctly.
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what about solar years and sidereal years?
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On 2/3/2024 at 5:44 AM, Altan said:
One of the problems with modern appliances is that they are too digitalised, too much electronics! an those things do not last long time and you need to be gentle with these. Apart from that the body is the thing you can consider. For example if you check some Gaggenau fridge freezers you will see the interior is stainless steel and not plastic. This is one thing to consider, then in some fridges the glass shelf has plastic frame and in some stainless steel, the plastic ones break after a few years. A lot of Miele fridges do have plastic ones and spares are so expensive from that brand (Miele fridges are made in Germany but not by Miele itself, another brand makes the fridges for them as Miele's main job is the vacuums and washing machines). Free standing Miele fridge freezers have a much better door handle and doors are made with curved edges as one piece of metal, not like other brands that they attach another piece to them, this makes them easy to clean if you are fussy like me!
Ex Miele vacuums were powered by 2000 - 2500 Watt motor, now new EU regulations do not allow over 900W, that is why they are 899W. If you think that is something to consider then do not buy the Miele vacs from the EU loool, maybe Australia can be a good source.
When it comes to ovens, I would go for the brands like Miele or higher brands as they have ovens that is connected to water source and you can wash the interiors automatically over night. A lot of commercial ovens do have this option. Cleaning a dirty oven is pain in the a..
It can save a lot of time, if you are a green person it might not be a good option as the detergents for this purpose can be so chemical.
Dish washers have to be Miele or higher as they mostly do not wash properly or leave some oily chemical on the dishes, and I rerinse them most of the time. There are some commercial ones that they wash with steam only and no detergent is used, hope one day we can have similar ones for home use as well.
For me washing machine has to be fully adjustable. I should be able to choose how many rinse I want. The temperature should be adjustable fully, most of the brands offer 30, 40, 60 and 90 and rarely 70, and 50 and 80 degree Celsius almost always is missed. Spin has to be over 1600, specially if you live in a damp city like London and you don't wish to wear smelly clothes because they don't dry on time! looooool
Microwave is something I do not consider as healthy so I would never buy one.
I don't know about the EU but in the states our Microwaves have to have protection against the waves escaping now which is one of the reasons it is so hard to see inside of them. I am unaware of other health concerns of a Microwave but I wouldn't be surprised if there were more.
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3 hours ago, jslsker said:
Personally, while this concept is cool...it's frustrating to me. I wish they would just expand the existing 2.0 line or go right to the 3.0 rather than another spinoff. I know it's semi-compatable, but it's not the same.
I'm getting real close to investing in the Flex or Toughbuilt systems.
Maybe I am misunderstanding something here but isn't TS 2.0 DXL expanding TS 2.0? Looks to be compatible with TS2.0 and the side rails on the DXL are compatible with the modular garage system. I think it gives the user more option with TS 2.0. When regular 2.0 isn't wide enough you can grab DXL. When TS 2.0 is too wide you grab a TS 2.0 half width box. Is a double width box any different than a half width box in principle? DeWALT isn't the first to have multiple widths of modular boxes that are inter-compatible. Tanos did it with SYS3 M, SYS3 L, and SYS3 XXL. They even have a few products that are coming in the larger width Systainers like the Planex, recip saw, and the upcoming rotary hammer. Tanos also did it to some degree on some older generation Systainers.
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On 2/3/2024 at 5:03 AM, Altan said:
Yes, the video from VCG construction, I think shows that.
That must have been the one I watched that mentioned both q2 and q3.
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6 hours ago, jslsker said:
End of Q2 for release. At least one video on youtube from World of Concrete's demo shows a plywood top
yup I watched one too. Looks like q3 is a possibility too. The plywood top didn't look like a special worktop. Looked like maybe it sets in the recessed area of the DXL Worktop. While DeWALT showed you can put a piece of plywood on the DXL Worktop they did not specify if there will be a precut one available or if the user has to make their own. Should be easy to make by the user especially if they got scraps laying around.
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Yeah my thinking was in the 1000-1200 range. I saw one listing that was something like 1600 watt at $50. It seemed kinda suspicious. I think microwaves are also rated at multiple wattages per unit depending on the task the microwave is doing.
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I was wondering how everyone goes about finding a decent appliance? Tonight I was researching countertop microwaves. The one I use is taking longer than it used to. I felt like whether it was Menards, Lowes, Amazon, Home Depot, or maybe others that half the brands listed I have never even heard of. It seems harder and harder to find quality brands of basically anything whether it is an appliance or something else. There are so many price points too. I could buy a countertop microwave for $59 or I could spend nearly $1000 for one. Is there a price point that is too low to consider for an appliance or a price point too high to consider? I doubt I would buy a microwave for $1000 but if it was a larger appliance would $1000 be acceptable? I'm not sure.
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the Tough system 2.0 dxl work top is the only one I have seen. I wonder when it will arrive. Would be nice to have a more traditional wooden top that is replaceable for the Tough System 2.0 DXL. One a user deems the top to be retired after too many screw holes or whatever just cut a new top.
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On 1/29/2024 at 1:09 PM, Eric - TIA said:
Very cool and thanks for sharing. I am wondering if their Exo 18 exoskeleton is a design they did with Hilti as they offer something similar.
possibly but Festool's is battery powered where the one from Hilti doesn't look to be powered by a battery but I could be mistaken.
One+ Dual inflator P731 not allowing me to set tire pressure
in Ryobi
Posted
Have you tried different tires?