Biggie
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Posts posted by Biggie
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I haven't really had a chance to use it and see how it compares but here are a few side by sides of some comparable tools if anyone was wondering. Personally I wish it was a little smaller head but to get 220ft/lbs of torque I guess you can only get so small.
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Tool body is a little long and the head is pretty girthy but for the right situations it'll come in handy.
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My dad has the 20v and I have the 60v. I haven't used his 20v in a couple years now but from what I remember it had decent power for a homeowner trimming grass around the house. When I got my 60v they had a really good promo going for the kit with a 9.0 battery so that was my deciding factor.
Being 6'2" tall, the first thing I noticed was the 60v is longer and was much more comfortable for me. If I remember right with the 20v it seemed to work best in the higher speed. With the 60v trimming around the house I never use the high speed and actually still feather the throttle sometimes in low. The 60v can take .095 line but came with the .080 line which is the thickest the 20v can take. I had a lot of issues with the line breaking inside the head but once I got through the factory line and bought some dewalt .095 line it made a world of difference. Maybe the. 080 isn't an issue on the less powerful 20v but with the 60v I wouldn't run anything but the .095 . So while I don't need the more powerful trimmer I'm glade that I got the 60v for those other reasons.
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We have a dcd995 that's about 6 years old that makes a similar noise. Started doing it when it was like a year old and has never caused any issue with the drill. Its annoying but I've never actually tore it apart to try find out whats rattling.
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I personally think its a design flaw and the gears are too weak. We use the saws daily but no where close to using them enough to wear them out in under 6 months. Doing the same work we were getting over 5 years out of the corded 8" model. It was always a specific abusing task that broke the corded model, like one broke the day after a newer guy was cutting some heavy I-beams. That wasn't the case with the fuel 5⅜", I mainly cut 12ga sheet steel with it and I was never abusing it when it broke.
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17 hours ago, paulengr said:
How did you break them?
I keep taking out the gears. Started with a new saw in fall of 2017 broke it, sent it in and they repaired it with armature and gear housing. Stripped gears again and they sent me a new saw. Broke 2nd new saw and sent it in to warranty to have them replace armature and gear housing. Broke repaired saw and I'm now on a 3rd new saw.
I see in the online parts manual they have updated the gear housing, but I haven't even used the newest saw because about the time I got it they released the new 8" so I've just been using my brushed 5⅜" saw. I'm still trying to decide if I should keep the fuel 5⅜" or sell it. I really do like it because it has a lot of power in a small package and never seemed underpowered for anything I was cutting. But if its only going to last me 6 months its just a matter of time before I run out of warranty. I would also say that we've stripped gears in a couple 8" corded saws over the last 15 years so its not like it doesn't happen but every 6 months is a little too excessive.
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Got my new saw today and the thing is beefy. The motor is bigger than the corded model and it makes the 5⅜" fuel model look like a tinker toy.
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In that case I have no idea haha. That's one thing I dont like about brushless tools they seem to have more electrical gremlins. I don't own any makita tools but I know with dewalt and milwaukee brushless tools if you have electrical problems you pretty much have to replace the whole electrical assembly.
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I would guess your brushes are wore out. They are pretty cheap and usually pretty easy to change as they are designed to wear out overtime.
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I'm not real familiar with that specific drill but I've seen them with hex and Phillip's head screws. If it doesn't seem to be any of those, I know it's been talked about on here that some dewalt models dont have a screw at all and it's possible you're just seeing a machining dimple on the end of the spindle.
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The part number for the pin detent anvil from the 2766-20 impact is 42-06-2770. It can be found on ebay typically from $50-60 but I actually just looked and there is one for $30 right now.
I'm only assuming this works because the 2767-20 and 2766-20 are both the 2nd gen high torque impact and from the anvil pictures I posted above they look as though the anvils would be interchangeable but I don't know that for certain. When they released the 2nd gen high torque impacts they said that the pin detent anvil couldn't handle the 1400ft/lbs of nut busting torque that the 2767-20 model has because of the hole in the anvil so the 2766-20 pin detent model only has 1100ft/lbs of nut busting torque. I would guess that's only an issue in extreme conditions but just something to keep in mind.
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Milwaukee released new m12 right angle impact wrenches available in 3/8, 1/2 hog ring, and 1/2" pin detent. 220ft/lbs of nut busting torque which is a lot better than the current M18 right angle impact that has 60 ft/lbs of torque. Looks like they'll be out sometime in June.
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I'm sure either option would get the job done. One thing about Milwaukee is marketing likes to advertise big numbers but if its rates as a 1" rotary hammer it's pretty comparable to most other 1" rotary hammers. Hilti on the other hand doesn't advertise big numbers but for whatever reason they always win in a head to head competition. It seems they just have a really efficient hammering mechanism but you also pay a premium for it. I personally have dewalt and milwaukee rotary hammers and for how much I use them I dont see a need to pay the premium for the Hilti.
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This must be an error in the description. If you look in the q&a on home depot someone asked about cutting metal with the 2530 and a milwaukee rep responded that it's for wood only. Also that blade size and teeth count dosen't sound right for a metal blade but it is the standard wood framing blade size that should come with the saw. All that being said I'm sure with the right metal blade it would cut limited amounts of aluminum. It has rpms that match most 5⅜" metal blades but most metal blades have a 20mm arbor and the 2530 has a 10mm so it'll require bushings. The cons: it's probably a bit under powered and the guard isn't designed for metal so it'll throw a lot of metal shrapnel.
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I feel like my prayers have been answered. We used the 8" corded version for years and, while I love the 5⅜" fuel model, I've broke 4 in the last two years. They've been covered under warranty but I was starting to come to the conclusion the the 5⅜" wasn't heavy duty enough for what I was using it for and needed a different answer. This is exactly what I was looking for.
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Watch the first minute of this video. Not sure if this is your issue but I know I had this issue with my m18 die grinder the first time I used it. Hope this helps.
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Looks like Milwaukee is releasing a m18 D- handle 1" impact wrench. I'm kind of surprised this flew under the radar on here for so long.
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Well not exactly Milwaukee but looks like Milwaukee tools is opening a manufacturing plant in West Bend Wi. Google recommended this article to me. I don't know that it's anything real significant but just thought it might be of interest to some guys on here.
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Interesting... looks like they're stepping up their game on the compact impact wrench. I think this is a good thing but it doesn't really look like a mid torque.
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I've always had a hard time getting over the $189 price tag for the dcf890, I even made my own dcf886 modified with a 3/8" anvil a couple years ago. They've been around the $100 mark on ebay for awhile but when I saw one for $80 I couldn't resist.
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15 hours ago, fm2176 said:
I gave in...picked up the DeWalt Xtreme 3/8" impact wrench
I think you'll be happy about the purchase, they're a great compact light weight tool. While I consider the m12 stubby to be more of a specialty tool, I actually prefer the dewalt xtreme as an every day tool.
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25 minutes ago, Oranus said:
Does someone know a model, similar to DT110D, that is sold in the US and Europe?
Without doing to much research it looks like the dt110d is just a brushed cxt 12v which in the US it looks like it would be a dt03z.
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I'm all for matching the tool and battery for the task at hand. Then again it wasn't that long ago that dewalt xrp 18v batteries were the gold standard in cordless and a 9.0 pack isn't much different in size. Personally I'm glad those days are in the past and love the new smaller and lighter tools but it might not be quit as ridiculous to others as it seems to us.
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Yea it's kind of surprising makita doesnt have one. Even ridgid and ryobi have one although it's really just their only 1/2" impact wrenches fit the size and torque of a mid-torque.
New M12 right angle impact wrenches
in Milwaukee
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Yea the m18 right angle is small and fits in a lot of places but its pretty weak when it gets there.