pingman222

yup, been using the peel & stick on top of the joists, and we're about 26 boards into the first tier of the deck now, hoping to get the top tier done by today....will be sure to get pictures

Just to give an update, i just finished framing the deck over the last 5 days now, had the long weekend here in canada + an extra day off work so it helped to get the bulk of it done, just my wife and I working, and her dad and mine dropping in once in a while to offer some extra help & guidance. I ripped off the existing ledger, replaced it with the proper length one, with as best flashing detail as i could muster up in there. Peel & stick behind the ledger board, Z flashing on top and the house wrap layered over. Did the same thing on the other side of the house where we attached a new ledger as well. While i was in there i moved the J channel on the siding up so we could fit the board in underneath, hiding a ripped edge there. Ended up going with double 2x10 beams, and 2x8 joists @ 12" O.C., and we'll putting the joist tape on all of them just before laying the decking, and we decided on timbertech Tropical Amazon Mist. Will be using Tiger Claw TC-G clips and starborn pro-plugs on the picture frame, and the starborne fascia screws for fascia/risers. It'll be a double picture frame, and my math should be proper that i wont have to cut any field boards....i hope LOL. Now my question lies in about the board that goes in/on the drip edge and underneath the J-channel. Does that get face screwed through the drip edge or only beside it, into the joists and not the ledger? Also, here in canada our temperatures can vary between -35* C, and +35*C....when we're installing it's probably going to be around +25-30*C, since it would be at it's "hottest", i'm assuming i should mitre my picture frame corners with minimal gap as they should realistically only shrink? Also, what do you guys like to do with joists that come up higher than the outer rim joist? Notch it out at the beam? Use a hand planer on the top? Some of the PT lumber we got was not of the highest standard, so just figuring out how to deal with the inconsistencies of wood framing. Anyways, we have some time before the composite arrives, so looking to get a little education before any expensive mistakes happen!

Just took a walk around my neighborhood at some of the houses that had decks included, don't know what they paid, but I'm sure it was a pretty penny from the builder to include it in the build. Both of these decks were elevated probably 7'. One of them had 2x10 joists on a 2x8 ledger, and the other one had the exact scenario I was trying to portray to you guys. Existing 2x8 on wall, attached 2x10 on top to joist into. The 2x10 joists on the 2x8 ledger just look plain wrong, and upon inspecting the other one, they hadn't even secured the ledger to the house with bolts or lags. Only seeing rows of nails...yikes. I also did confirm with our house builder that their standard detail for the ledger board is just the house wrap overtop of the drip edge, ledger underneath. There is no peel & stick membrane under there at all. Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the tips Mordekyle. I'll definitely think about going to 12" O.C. joists, marginal cost upgrade for what should be a less springy and better built deck as we are looking to go with composite. I'll be sure to dig in deeper and find out exactly what i need to do to replace the ledger boards on both sides. I'm assuming that the short side-ledger board, when removed, can be replaced with my 16' joist, or should i leave that in there and just run the first joist just next to it (but not touching)? I'll try to get in touch with our builder and see if they can find out what their standard flashing detail is like for their ledger boards. I would like to think they had done it properly but i guess we will see! The main question still becomes, which i cannot for the life of me find a video or page explaining it, is how to handle the flashing when the ledger will go past the corner trim of the vinyl siding...is anyone willing to draw me a sketch of what that should look like?

And here is the work area in all it's actual glory Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Hopefully these drawings will help illustrate what I'm going for here. Existing ledger board is provided as shown in the elevation drawings, however in reality it does not go right to the edge of the house, it cuts off before reaching the corner siding trim. If I were to replace this board with a full 13' piece, it would involve cutting that corner trim and I'm still searching on how to flash a corner like that. My proposal as shown in the section view, is to just attach an extra 2x8 it to the ledger on the short side of the house + to the existing 2x8. That should now float in front of the corner trim, however I am guessing I will need to extend the flashing to cover this piece as well. Other than that, the dimensions and spans all seem to fit well within my city guidelines for deck building. Open to more opinions!! Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

thanks for all the replies guys, and from someone with a civil eng. background i completely understand the need to build it right and beefier than "allowable" to only have to do it once and leave it for 15-20 years. With that being said i am more open to new designs now using 2x6 joists (w/ 2x8 beams), or 2x8 joists. Both are acceptable within my city code and the spans will be well under the limits. 2x6 & 2x8 joist spans would be spaced at 7'6", with posts 3'3" apart. It's going to be a low deck, right now from top of ledger to rough grade we are sitting at about 25" high. Once we get our topsoil & rock/sod in there, i'm sure we'll be hovering around 20-22" above grade, not very high, and anything under 24" around here does not require permits. Still keeping with the question though, the builder has already nailed (not bolted yet) a 2x8 ledger to the house, but it stops before the corner trim of the siding. That's 11', and the wife wants it out at 13'. The ledger does look to have the proper drip edge over it right now, not entirely sure if it was "completely" flashed how i've been researching it online though, with waterproof membrane up etc etc...you'd have to hope so. Still wondering if i need to extend that out is it still better to replace the entire board (if i'm using the same size board now), or if i could just laminate a 2x8 on top of the existing 2x8 now too, with a post in the cantilevered corner. With that....how does the flashing now work? the new 2x8 would not be in contact with the siding/house, but would the existing drip edge need to be extended over both boards? If i was to replace the existing ledger with a full 13' one, i still cannot find a guide that shows how to properly flash at the corner vinyl siding trim. Do you just run the flashing into the corner trim and that's that because right now, the ledger depth would require me to cut out some of that corner siding. I'm going to draw a sketch of my plans and upload it here so that it's easier for everyone to visualize, as well as pictures later on of my current ledger situation. Thanks guys!

I'm in the process of planning to build my deck on our new house and have come accross a dilemma in planning. We are building a 13'x16' deck, and I would like to use 2x10 or 2x12 joists in order to span longer and cut down on the need for screw piles. The house builder had included a ledger board already attached to the home upon building, but used a 2x8. The existing 2x8 also only goes to the end of the house, which is 11'. I need that to be 13', and then have the joists span the 16'. Since there is only a 2x8 attached to the house, and i need it longer, is it possible to just attach a 2x12 on top of it for my 13', and have that be where the joists will now attach and be my rim joist? Or do i have to remove the 2x8 (hoping to avoid as to reduce the amount of siding cutting etc etc. I know codes everywhere are different, but just looking for some feedback here!

yup i'll definitely be watching the boxing day sales here in the next couple weeks to see if there is a better deal out there, or if there are things to add to the set. I was going around my father in law's shop yesterday and saw that he's got a M12 drill sitting there, i don't think i've ever seen him use it as he turns to his old trust makita all the time. I think the battery might be toast so perhaps i could just ask him for the tool and wait for some of the accessories to come on sale on have the M12 option as well

You guys are lucky to have dealerships that can do oil changes for what it would cost you to DIY. Here in my part of canada, the quick-lube shops are $60 for basic changes, $90 for synthetic. If you go to your respective dealership? forget about it, you're looking at $100+ for synthetic in most places. heck, my Rav4 was just due up for some maintenance lately. I checked with the dealer because i was feeling a bit lazy. An oil change (dino oil), brake fluid change, rear and front diff fluid change, and a transmission drain and fill, and they wanted something like $650+. I think i spent about $75 in fluids, and had a nice afternoon changing it all out myself easy peezy. For me, there is still quite a cost savings in DIY car maintenance even for oil changes, and also the self satisfaction that it's done right and i can choose what oil to run etc.

Just an update, i ended up grabbing from Home depot (canada), the milwaukee M18 Brushed Set of the drill-driver and impact driver. When it really came down to it i knew that all the big name tools would do the tasks i ask of it for my needs, so it came down to cost effectiveness and bonus'es. I got the set with a bonus 2.0AH battery, for $150 CAD taxes in. It was regular $200 but they match+10% a competitors price who had it for $189+15% as a one-day deal. Not too shabby, and i picked up a 56 piece shockwave driver bit set as well for $24. I figure at that price and with the extra battery, it opens up the spot in the future to add a hackzall or sawzall, or perhaps the multi tool and i've already got a battery for it. Let the collecting begin!!

thanks for the help everyone. I'm headed back to some of the tools stores today as KMS tools here is running 15% off any 1 item (including combo sets), or 20% off makita. So i'm going to go see if anything looks good in the makita line. The LXT211 or the DLX2180 seem to fit the bill and with an extra 20% off seem like a good deal. If not, i still like the M18 set with the extra battery deal, and getting an extra 15% off that wouldn't be bad at all!

Wife and I made the trip to home depot yesterday and checked a few things out. I looked at the m18 brushed kit for $189+free extra battery and liked everything about it. It fits the immediate budget and having the extra battery gives options for adding a future bare tool too. The m18 brushes kit was $299 but included a free sawzall or circular saw. It's more $$ and you get brushless, but the extra dollars im not sure are worth it as the difference over the regular m18 is the price of the free tool, and going with the reg m18 I would have the bonus battery already too. After holding the m18 and m12, I'm finding the sizes both something that I can easily live with. The 18V compacts seem to definitely be the way I'm going to go. Going with Milwaukee seems good to me too as their local factory service center is right across the street from where I work. The reason I still look and consider the Bosch kit is because of the useful chuck on the impact. I do work around my cars and of course it's not a dedicated impact wrench which I have, but the Bosch gets a few bonus points for being able to just throw half inch sockets straight on, which I own lots of. I did see the Makita compact line, actually my wife noted it more specifically as she was looking at the aesthetics of all the drills lol. She noticed those anniversary edition black/white Makitas and was immediately drawn to them, maybe I will have a closer look. It'll be boxing day here in a couple weeks and perhaps there will be better deals for combo kits come that time, I don't mind waiting for that as well, but I was thinking I would jump on the promos right now and just return the kit if something sweeter came along during boxing week. Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Not bad...I still wouldn't mind having a couple different tools though, I know alot of applications would overlap for my non-precision needs. I know for sure though that If I pick anything up soon, I'll keep it packaged up and see if anything else pops up during boxing day that's better. I'm kind of leaning towards 18V now that I consider the future expansion of tools. I could definitely see some saw needs in there somewhere. Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

I would jump all over that....if i wasn't in canada lol. This is something i never considered either actually. I could see a sawzall or a circular saw coming in handy. My father in law has all these items, but none are cordless and i hate having to borrow if i can add to my collection down the road. I originally "counted out" 18V because i wanted "light and compact", however that was before i really started looking at stuff and realizing the 18V tools of today are much much more user friendly than the old ones.