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wingless last won the day on June 26 2019

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About wingless

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  1. Welcome to the forum. This is a handy tool w/ a pair of sensors to locate the center of a stud / pipe / wire accurately. Contact the manufacturer to see if this will provide the required detection. IMO, an infrared camera is probably a better option, using solar heating, night time cooling, central heating, to create an internal / external temperature differential, so the different thermal conductivity will show up for imaging. https://www.amazon.com/PerfectPrime-Infrared-Thermal-Temperature-22-1832°F/dp/B07RFS28ZH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=infrared+camera&qid=1579920629&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0NklHNUI5TzNHQlgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyNzkzNzBUMUlaUFMwSDJMTzImZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQ0ODUzNzE4UFVSTDhGTkJNV0wmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
  2. Welcome to the forum. Nice roof ladder / stand. Looks to provide great protection for the tile / concrete roof. Does Mary Poppins know about your retirement plans?
  3. The generator wiring has been completed. There is now an exterior power inlet box where I may connect my portable generator. The main panel has a mechanical interlock for safety and for compliance. The generator breaker is mechanically secured, for the same reasons, to create a secure main. The hold down kit includes a black molded electrical screw insulation cover. This does not remain in-place on my 30A Q230 Type QP double pole breaker, to not fall off when not held by my fingers. According to the Amazon Siemens ECMBR2 hold down kit listing, this is compatible w/ breakers 60A or larger. A telephone discussion w/ Siemens revealed that the 60A and larger breakers have a hook that grabs the cover tang for retention. The smaller amperage breakers don't have that hook. Mine will not have that screw cover installed. The mechanical interlock must be installed last because the retention tangs will make removal difficult. The ONLY way to remove / replace the panel cover is with BOTH the main breaker and the generator breaker in the OFF positions. The interlock has a detent to hold the lever up during the panel cover installation / removal process. Now the interlock permits either street power or generator power to feed the circuit panel. It is also impossible to back feed the exposed exterior power inlet box electrical prongs. The interlock makes it impossible to connect the generator output to street electricity.
  4. Welcome to the forum. When the stationary blade is grabbed and then attempted to be twisted, does it remain straight, or is rotation possible?
  5. Welcome to the forum. That is a scary event. Hopefully your recovery is progressing. There are no issues related to that problem on the DeWALT Safety Notices and Recalls web page. According to the MSDS the conditions to avoid are: "Avoid exposure to elevated temperatures and fire." Nothing else was located on-line about that problem. Note that Lithium Ion batteries have high energy density and all appropriate handling procedures must be followed.
  6. My Airbnb rental property has been active for over a year. There have been fewer problem tenants than I can count on one hand. This is a beautiful home, recently remodeled, in a nice residential area and even though my neighbors are great, I’ve found I cannot count on them to contact me if things get out-of-hand. My house rules specify: “No parties or events”. IMO, the system I installed will permit me to remotely determine if the tenants / rental requires a personal visit. The solution I am currently implementing is a set of exterior cameras / microphones connected to a local online DVR. I went this route because I didn’t want to get involved with another annual subscription, instead purchasing / maintaining the equipment myself, with no ongoing fees. The Airbnb rules permit cameras / microphones, except in bedrooms or bathrooms. The rules also specify those recording devices must be disclosed. Both cameras are fully visible and both are properly fully disclosed in the listing, all in complete compliance with all the rules. In my case, one camera is pointing out at the sidewalk, leading to the front entrance, the other camera is on the garage, pointing out at the driveway. Being a self-affirmed troglodyte, I selected and installed a wired system. The DVR is connected to the router w/ a CAT5 network cable. The cameras / microphones are connected with three cables each, for BNC video, RCA audio and barrel jack 12VDC power. There are wireless options to replace each wire (except power), but that is not my way… Careful camera placement selection is critical for acceptable results. One thing that can cause problems are early morning / late afternoon direct sunlight onto the lens. That can kill the image for hours. The direct sunlight impingement can be a seasonal event, fine at one time of year and unacceptable in a different season. The camera lens must also not be illuminated by a spotlight, to also not get a usable image killed. Another important aspect is getting a great close-up face shot. Frequently cameras are placed very high, providing a great scalp view, but not so good for the face. The trade off is the camera must be high enough to be out-of-reach for easy tampering by a tall person. I like to place the camera at 8 to 9 feet above ground. The best placement for face capture is 5 feet above ground, pointing directly at the face as they walk towards the camera. An ideal camera placement has each camera including the other cameras in their field of view, to image / record any potential tampering. My preference also includes weather protection, from sun / wind / rain, to reduce deterioration over time. Wind protection is important for the microphones, to avoid rumbling from wind. The equipment must be secured. This includes physical security, having the equipment locked to be secure and inaccessible. That includes cameras, microphones, DVR, power and cabling. The other important security aspect is the network, to prevent remote access. Always, always, always change the default password(s) to restrict network access to the equipment. Anyone can examine the manufacturer’s default password and destroy the system security. The DVR system I selected is this TigerSecu H.265+ 4-Channel DVR w/ 1TB HDD. This is a complete DVR recorder system, w/o cameras, microphone(s) or camera / microphone cables or power supply. The DVR does not include, but requires, a monitor. The monitor must have either a VGA input, a HDMI input or a composite video (CVBS) input. The DVR system includes: the DVR; the external 120VAC/12VDC power supply brick (only to be used for DVR, NOT also for cameras); the hand-held IR remote control; the wired USB mouse; the User Manual; a Quick Start Guide and a CCTV warning decals sheet. The DVR is easy to setup. There is an application for iPhone or Android. There is software for PC and for Mac OS. The iPhone is VERY easy to configure. Select the QR square bar code from the DVR software menu to be displayed on the DVR monitor and scan that square bar code with the iPhone, done. The PC software setup is also easy, but I couldn’t figure it out w/o a call to the manufacturer. They provided the answer to get my remote / home PC up and running for complete system access. The manufacturer provides excellent support. My system has the standard 1TB hard drive. I have this set for continuous recording at the highest quality from two cameras. It looks like I get about two weeks of storage, before the hard drive overwrites the oldest data. It looks like the system consumes about 60GB of hard drive daily for these two cameras / microphones. That amount of storage days is perfect for my usage. The recording storage may be increased using these methods: swapping to a larger internal hard drive; lowering the recording quality from High to Medium or to Low or change from continuous recording to event recording or to scheduled recording. One camera is this 5MP dome camera. This provides excellent application flexibility. In my case I mounted it onto the vestibule ceiling, in the corner. The cabling is completely concealed. One thing I didn’t like about the camera was there is no UP mark on the sphere, requiring video observation to do a rough and fine setup. Another thing I didn’t like is the VERY FINE threads on the locking collar. I was unable to properly assemble after installation w/o first covering those threads w/ white lithium grease, then it was fine. This camera has a manual zoom recessed screw adjustment and a manual focus adjustment. The camera is delivered w/ the zoom set to show the widest image in perfect focus. If the zoom is manually adjusted, w/ a jeweler’s screwdriver, then the focus is immediately blurry, requiring also adjusting the focus adjustment to restore perfect focus. Once everything is set, the large locking collar is tightened while holding the dome camera stationary. A small set screw is tightened to retain that setting. This camera has a ring of IR LED devices surrounding the lens, to provide B&W images during night operation, automatically changing from day mode (full color), to night mode (B&W). This camera has a large circular mounting base ring. I slightly modified that base ring to increase the width and depth of an existing cable slot so that it would accept the microphone, for a secure / protected / concealed mount. The other camera is this TigerSecu 2MP stalk camera. The mount permits complete mounting / pointing flexibility. The cabling is completely concealed. This was mounted on the garage soffit. The overhang provides environmental and solar protection. The microphone is placed in a nearby through hole, also through the soffit. It is retained w/ a squirt of RTV adhesive. A pair of these microphones were used, one for each camera. These have a DC wye cable, with a plug / jack to accept power in from the DC supply and provide power out to the camera. That feature is very handy. The audio pickup is facing out the end of the bar, great for placement within a hole. Other system parts are: an old flat screen VGA monitor I had been using to collect dust; an external 120VAC/12VDC 3.33A power supply brick I also had on-hand, for the cameras, microphones and local speakers; a powered PC speaker set I had on-hand, for the audio output, not required but handy during setup; a stereo RCA audio cable set, split to run to each microphones at the far end and to the DVR audio inputs at the other end; a pair of RCA video DC plug / jack cables and this Eight way DC power plug splitter, to use one 12VDC brick for all the cameras, microphones and speakers. I modified the AC/DC brick and the eight-way splitter so the plug on the end of the brick would plug into the splitter input and so that one plug would fit into my powered speakers. My property has LED floodlights illuminating the sidewalk and part of the driveway, dusk to dawn. What I’ve noticed is that the night time camera does an excellent job imaging in the dark before the illuminated area and illuminating that lit area, but the far dark area, past the floodlights, doesn’t have great imaging. That is not a problem because that is far from the home. The DVR PC software is fine. It takes a little learning to get the hang of usage. The fast forward / play / rewind is a little clunky, but I’m thinking it is from the remote distance delay. It is very usable as-is. The DVR iPhone software is also fine. I can do what I need using the phone. The DVR permits exporting video clips by selecting a date / time range. The manufacturer recommends usage of a local USB thumb drive, but it may also work remotely over the Internet, but the amount of data is reported to be time consuming. I just leave an empty USB thumb drive in the empty USB slot for local or remote permanent storage.
  7. The main electric circuit panel in my home is a Zinsco circuit breaker panel. Panels from Zinsco are unsafe and will be rejected during inspection when selling the home. My plan was to properly remove and replace w/ a good panel. The panel I selected is this Siemens P4080B1200ACU 200A 40 Spaces / 80 Circuits PL Load Center. This is a really nice panel. The primary feature I wanted was copper, instead of aluminum, for the power distribution. My home is on a salt water canal and I wanted the corrosion resistance. Another feature that is really handy are full length neutral bars alongside all the breaker positions. There is also a similar model w/ shorter neutral bars (and shorter ground bars) for a slightly lower cost, losing that ability for adjacent line and neutral placement. The adjacent line and neutral is very handy when using GFCI breakers. Just like most Amazon customers who wrote reviews, my panel was damaged because of horrible packaging prior to shipment, from Amazon to me. The panel was placed in a larger carton, along w/ a crumpled piece of paper, that was it. When I discussed this problem with Amazon, I instructed them to read the customer reviews on their web site and then asked them about the plethora of feedback about improper Amazon packaging. My impression is that Amazon has ZERO interest in changing their system so that parts like this arrive intact. My swap was complicated by these factors, the new panel being taller than old and rigid conduit entering from bottom, top and rear. My selection was to keep the old/new bottom and rear conduit placement constant, but having the top surface taller, causing the alteration of only one rigid conduit. That creates a complication for the hinged load center panel door, now bumping into the garage door track. I don’t yet have a solution for that problem. Another factor driving this panel selection was the ease to safely implement a generator standby interlock. Simply select the correct ampere rating on a Siemens QP two pole circuit breaker, locate at the top left positions, leave the two top right positions empty (no breakers) and use these parts. Use a Siemens ECSBPK03 generator standby power mechanical interlock and a Siemens ECMBR2 main breaker hold down kit, used to create a secure main, for a safe generator connection. For my 5,500 Watt portable Troy-Bilt generator I used this Reliance Controls Corporation NEMA L14-30 PB30 30-Amp NEMA 3R power inlet box with 10/3 (four conductor) wiring to that exterior wall box. There are different boxes available, such as for a 50A generator, but I didn’t need that larger size. One thing to note on these generator interlock parts is that removal is difficult, due to the snap retention tangs, so only install these parts when everything else is completed. The exterior front panel includes retention hook tangs, to hang the loose panel onto the load center box prior to installing the screws. This makes installation and removal easier. This Siemens load center has 40 circuit breaker positions, good for up to 80 circuits. Four are consumed when properly using the interlock for a generator transfer switch. Some modify the interlock parts, to NOT lose the two top right spots, but that is unsafe and that does not permit the required placement of the hold down kit for a secure main. My breaker choice for regular 120VAC circuits are these Siemens Q2020 Two 20-Amp single pole 120-Volt for Type QT circuit breaker locations, to get two circuits using only one space. Using these for my 120VAC circuits permitted me to fully wire the panel with each feed having its own breaker. I previously needed to double up some feeds because of insufficient breaker quantity. Now I have eight unpopulated breaker positions, good for future expansion. My breaker choice for 240VAC circuits are these Siemens Q260 60-Amp double pole for Type QP circuit breaker locations. As expected, these consume two spaces each. The panel change resulted in many of my wires being too short. I used standard wire nuts and wire to extend the 14AWG and 12AWG wires. I used these split bolt connectors for all the thicker wires. The split bolt connectors are then insulated w/ black electrical tape, after properly tightened. This was a big job. All that remains is the exterior generator hook up, updated wire labeling and the panel labeling.
  8. Welcome to the forum. Is this a DeWALT DW682K Plate Joiner tool? Sandpaper is not a good idea. It can change the shape of the surfaces. I have had success improving corroded surfaces w/ a detached utility knife blade, hand-held w/ the sharp blade dragged (not pushed) across the surface. An SOS steel wool pad might be useful, but the water required for this cleaner is not great on the tool. Maybe it would work w/ extreme care. The Nevr-Dull magic wadding polish is very handy and might work here. Pictures would be handy, but it might not be possible for the OP to post them yet.
  9. Welcome to the forum. Don't leave your tools out in the rain... The cordless Bosch GSB drill looks to be a nice tool. My guess is one of the circuit boards now has a failed component, as-shown in this parts listing. If ordering replacement parts, then ensure the model and version numbers are correct. Use a meter to verify power in when the trigger is squeezed and no power out.
  10. @paulengr is correct. The local pool store sells products at retail prices. While it is possible the clerk is clueless, in my southern Florida area, more than 50% of the homes have in-ground pools and my experience is that all the local pool stores have provided me invaluable information, with all clerks having great hands-on experience. I am not a chemist (I don't even play one on TV). When I started, pool ownership / maintenance / repair was totally new to me. While reading on-line is a great way to glean information, direct solicitation from experienced technicians cannot be beat. I would have ZERO hesitation asking paulengr about ANY of my pool problems or questions. My new pool ownership included years of pool store visits for part of the support, including purchasing their expensive chemicals. The local pool stores sell jugs and refills of liquid chlorine, that can be a useful part of pool maintenance.
  11. Welcome to the forum. Welcome to the joy of pool ownership... Where in the country is the pool located? Yes, garden hose water needs chemicals right off the bat, then chemicals on an ongoing basis. There are things like: muriatic acid (very dangerous, wear eye, skin and lung protection); stabilizer; oxidizer; pH up; pH down and iron remover, plus many more. The iron remover is required during filling to eliminate the possibility of permanent rust staining from the tap water iron. Take a deep water sample, arm length in the deep end, bring it to the local pool store. They will do a free analysis and sell you the correct chemicals. Know the water volume. Also get some test strips to make ongoing analysis easy. On one pool I have a salt system. It makes care (and chemical cost) MUCH easier. On my other pool I float tablets, higher chemical cost and more effort. Both of my in-ground pools are uncovered, southern Florida. One is heated, maintained at 80°F. The pool heater runs about 6-8 hours to restore / maintain the temperature in a ~70°F ambient temperature. I run during daylight hours to use the most solar energy possible. Both require periodic effort to remove vegetation that falls into the water. I have an automatic Zodiac pool vacuum chug chugging along in one, I use a manual wand vacuum in the other. Both require weekly filter and leaf catcher bucket cleaning. Yes, a cover will help with attaining / maintaining good water temperature. A pool heater will ensure that the desired water temperature is provided. My Build Right BR115XW pool heater is quiet and efficient, w/ a 5 year warranty and a no-rust plastic cabinet. It provides 117K BTU at 80°F ambient air temperature and 70K BTU at 50°F ambient. I put a locking cover on this heater so the AirBnB tenants don't mess w/ the settings. Also, matching padlocks on the main electrical controls...
  12. My southern Florida home requires standby power generation, for living after storms. My long-term solution was the 7kW Westerbeke generator on my boat, parked next to the house on the canal, using my 100' 12AWG extension cords. Not elegant, but effective. Note that my Westerbeke 7.0 BCGB generator is 1,800 RPM, not the Troy-Bilt 3,600 rpm. That half speed is much quieter and is a better long-term operation solution, especially on a boat where there is not distance and multiple walls available to place between the generator and the living space. Now that I am replacing my Zinsco main circuit breaker panel, I decided to include a transfer switch, w/ generator feed, to make powering my house much easier. This Troy-Bilt 5500 watt model 030245 portable generator wired to a 30A transfer switch on my new Siemens panel is my current solution to safely providing emergency power. There will be a 30A exterior power inlet that will be connected to the generator's twist lock NEMA L14-30 receptacle, using a 4-conductor flexible power cord. This 3.600 rpm generator has: 5,000 watt continuous capacity; 8,550 starting capacity; 46.2 amps at 120 VAC or 23.1 amps at 240 VAC capacity and 5 gallons of gasoline capacity. This includes a 25' dual 20A 120 VAC Briggs & Stratton cordset, P/N 197474, providing four pigtail receptacles, two on each leg. The generator controls are: engine on/off; carburetor choke; fuel valve open / closed; circuit breaker on/off switch and a recoil pull start. There is also panel illumination when running, pointing at the receptacles and circuit breaker. All the receptacles have a floppy rubber weather cover. The circuit breaker has a see through / push through rubber cover. The generator has a gravity-stored hoop handle and solid rubber knobby tires / plastic wheels for movement. The fuel cap has an integrated mechanical fuel gauge. This was a lightly-used, complete and most-importantly indoor-stored generator. Many users selling this generator store them outdoors and they end up w/ LOTS of surface corrosion. All mine needed was cleaning and polishing for the exterior to look brand new. The carburetor on mine was clogged, so I disassembled and cleaned the interior fuel passages. Now it is running before the first cord pull. Now I run the carburetor dry, then disconnect the fuel hose and drain the tank dry after each usage. This should permit easy starting w/ fresh gasoline and a clean carburetor. On mine, I modified the electric box to add a totalizing hour meter. I wired the meter to be powered whenever the generator is running, on the generator side of the circuit breaker on/off switch. That electric box interior volume usage only permitted placement of the hour meter at the less-exposed surface, making observation of the display possible, only by bending over and looking up at the interior of the generator. I selected a panel-mount hour meter, used a utility knife to cut the rectangle in the plastic box, used UL-rated wiring and crimped Faston connectors w/ stacking connectors to effect the connections. At least now I can track generator usage, for gasoline consumption and oil changes. So, when I need to use this, fill with gasoline, wheel to the side of my house, plug in the cordset, fire up the generator, then flip the main panel transfer switch, after selecting the circuits that will be powered and those that won't be energized.
  13. This Fiskars 18" StaySharp mower has been used multiple times. My satisfaction remains very high with this machine. The powder-coated steel is remaining very glossy, looking to provide terrific long-term protection.
  14. Welcome to the forum. The camera requires power. The Nest cameras use wired power and secure Wi-Fi data exchange. They are a nice solution. The Nest cameras require an annual data subscription to be useful, $50/yr for first camera, less for additional cameras. The other solutions to avoid data charges is to add a local data logger w/ hard drive to capture the A/V data for later usage. THE MOST OVERLOOKED aspects are camera placement, illumination, zoom, solar effects and maintenance. A useful face image is frequently very important. Do a temporary placement to check the image over 24 hours. It is also useful to examine over 365 days to check effect of solar inclination. Lenses get dirty and should be kept clean.
  15. Thanks for joining the forum to begin highlighting our deficiencies. Please continue forward with sharing your enlightened perspective on some of the other horrible forum information. There is NO WAY one single member will ever improve without the clarity presented in your introductory post.
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