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wingless

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About wingless

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  1. wingless

    How I 'Sharpen' my Metal cutting blades

    Nice video on sharpening a carbide blade.
  2. Thanks. Nice job on yours too. The old grease was scooped out with a small, flat screwdriver. A paper towel was used to wipe the surfaces clean. A toothbrush (I used the wife's) was used to clean the bearings, the gear teeth and the entire housing interior.
  3. wingless

    Track Saw T Square

    Yes, the DeWalt DWS5027 Tracksaw T-Square has been discontinued and is no longer available. This review of that DeWalt DWS5027 square, with the Festool track system, reveals that, in this example, the DeWalt square was close but not square. Given that the DeWalt fits the Festool rack, then the converse might also be true. An option that could be explored is getting a Festool square for usage with your DeWalt rack.
  4. wingless

    Sockets

    Done, good luck.
  5. wingless

    wingless' DeWalt DCD991P2 20V Max XR Drill Kit

    This keyless chuck is very secure. I've been using this tool lots, with frequent drill bit exchanges and in every case the chuck has been very secure, without any drill bit slip. The chuck makes a ratcheting sound / feel when the outer collar is rotated by hand when the forward / reverse switch is in the center off position.
  6. This DeWalt DCD991P2 20V Max XR drill kit is to retire my 30-year-old Milwaukee 0224-2 3/8" Magnum corded drill. The tool weighs 4lbs, 8oz, w/ the battery pack and the included belt clip. The top/bottom balance is nice and appropriate. The tool is "made in the USA with global materials". The two DCB205 20V 5.0Ah100Wh battery packs are made in Korea. The DCB115 charger base is made in China. After many months working w/ my daughter and her cordless tools, that reaffirmed my conviction that I am a troglodyte in my views on corded versus battery powered tools, leading me to investigate then select this cordless drill. My plan is to use this as my primary tool and the Milwaukee as a back-up. The DeWalt DCD991P2 has plenty of power, with plenty of torque. The three-speed transmission permits selection of the correct / maximum torque for the application. This is a great feature, enabling versatility for one drill to serve three applications, low/medium/high speed or torque. The automatic 3-function LED illumination is handy and intuitive. The low and medium intensity modes turn off automatically after 20 seconds. The high / spotlight mode runs for 20 minutes. My preference has always been for a keyed chuck, but those are also gone the way of the dinosaur. I hate when a chuck / drill bit slips and there is no way to get it any tighter. So far I like this keyless chuck. The audible / felt clicks when hand tightening appear sufficient. IMO, the instructions go waaay overboard "disconnect tool from power source when changing accessories". I put the Forward / Reverse switch in the center off position, instead of removing / replacing the battery pack whenever I need to swap a bit. The wobbly / sloppy fit between the battery pack and tool is not great, but I knew about that deficiency before purchase. IMO, DeWalt should improve this part of their design. The hard case is a useful feature of the kit. I prefer the protection it affords and everything having a place. The cover rib contacts the tool when closing, requiring either extra force to fully close, or pulling the top handle away from the hinge so the top cover internal rib clears the tool, so it may close. (Not a major issue, but should / could be improved). The other hard case improvement I would love is for additional room within the case for accessories. I would love to also store my drill bit index, plus other drill accessories within the case. This hard case doesn't have room for other stuff. All I could fit within the case is a small 13-bit drill index case, near the charger base. It would be great if some of those cool DeWalt bit cases had a dedicated location in the drill case. The battery must be snapped into the charger, not just slid until the light changes, or it won't charge the battery pack.
  7. The gear lubrication in my Milwaukee 0224-1 Magnum 3/8" 0-1,200rpm hole shooter was over 30 years old. The [URL=http://documents.milwaukeetool.com/TIY383 - Grease.pdf]Product Support Bulleting TIY #383[/URL] specifies that the correct lubricant for this tool is Type E grease. A one pound tub, part number 49-08-4122 was purchased. The gear case was opened by removing the front three screws. The old grease was removed. New grease was forced into all the bearings by hand, then deposited around the case in a manner similar to the old grease. The case was then reassembled. The tool has a very nice feel now.
  8. My Milwaukee 0224-1 Magnum 3/8" 0-1,200rpm Hole Shooter was purchased new in April 1988. It has been a strong / reliable homeowner's tool for over three decades. A recent home project included tiling 3,000 square feet of flooring. This drill was used w/ an auger to mix dozens of bags of mortar. That extraordinary "continuous" extended load burned up the variable speed part of the drill. Fortunately the drill was still operational. It failed to operate as a variable speed, but continued to operate in full speed mode. In this early generation drill, the speed controller part is embedded within the currently discontinued / obsolete 23-66-1350 trigger switch assembly. An image of the original switch shows bubbled up plastic heat damage, where that internal speed controller part is located, within the trigger switch. That obsolete part was located then installed, now normal operation has been restored. The assembly drawing / BOM for this early drill was located. That document number is: Bulletin No. 54-06-0227. I was unable to locate the Wiring Diagram for this early drill. That document number is: Wiring Instructions 58-01-0072. The only wiring instructions I found were for the slightly newer drill, using the separate 14-20-0245 speed controller part, not appropriate for my drill. To that end, I took lots of photographs during disassembly to ensure I could replicate the wire placement / routing during reassembly. The only difficulties for this repair was the removal / replacement of the poke-in switch wires. The ends of these stranded wires are soldered, to maintain the strands as a solid cluster. This early-generation switch doesn't have a secondary hole for releasing the wire retention tang. The wire removal from the old failed switch was easy enough, a light constant pull force while partially rotating the wires back and forth on an arc. The wire installation into the new switch didn't initially go smoothly. The wires are not stiff enough to overcome the wire retention tang, making it impossible to force the wires into position. A slender jeweler's screwdriver was used to open the wire retention tang. While open, the wire was forced into position, then the screwdriver was removed, leaving the wire retained by the tang.
  9. wingless

    Tool for snap on fasteners

    When I designed then fabricated my [URL=[URL=http://forum.sailrite.com/wingless-custom-enclosure_topic2801.html]]custom boat enclosure[/URL], part of that project included setting snaps of various types. The tool I selected for that project is this [URL=http://hooverproducts.com/interest.htm]Pres-N-Snap tool[/URL] with the appropriate dies. The tool has performed flawlessly in varied and difficult applications.
  10. wingless

    Can anyone identify this hand tool?

    It may be possible to reveal marking on the flat steel face(s) near the jaw. There have been instances where I've had luck exposing / revealing faint manufacturer's markings by flat surface scraping using a hand-held utility knife blade.
  11. My 6527 Super Sawzall died. I would squeeze the variable speed trigger, nothing would happen. The HI / LO switch had no effect. The tool was dead. The brushes were removed, inspected, found to be good, replaced, the tool was still dead. The reciprocating shaft moved fine when manually pushed and pulled. The top half of the red clam shell handle was removed to expose the tool electrics. The only exposed voltages that could be measured are the windings w/ the red and with the yellow wires. I found that there was not voltage on those windings when the tigger was squeezed. Everything else had concealed / protected electrical wires that cannot be measured using a voltmeter w/o disconnecting parts. A non-contact electrical AC voltage "sniffer" was used. It showed the expected AC voltage on the black wire from the power cord connector to the variable speed trigger switch. Both black wires out of that switch, one to the HI / LO switch and the other to the speed controller did not have AC voltage when the trigger was squeezed. That "sniffer" test lead me to conclude that the 23-66-1490 variable speed switch was defective. The wires to the switch were disconnected and the switch was removed. Note that the easy way to remove the wires is to insert a small probe into the wire cavity. A jeweler screwdriver works well to release the spring tang holding / retaining the wire conductor within the switch. Once the variable speed switch was removed, it was disassembled. The disassembly is easy. There is a post on each side of the body. I used a pair of loose utility knife blades to pry the body away from the posts so the switch guts would be released. When the switch guts are out of the switch body, that reveals a conductive / resistive surface and a wiper that drags across that surface. I used Isopropyl alcohol to clean both the surface and the wiper. All the switch guts parts were replaced at the correct locations and the switch was reassembled. The tool wiring was restored to original connections, the switch was screwed back into position and power was applied. The tool now works again!
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