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wingless last won the day on June 26

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About wingless

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  1. Welcome to the forum. This reply shows the DeWalt DW2190 case. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14363-wingless-accessories/?tab=comments#comment-200745 This reply shows the DeWalt DWMTC15 magnetic yellow tough case. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14363-wingless-accessories/?tab=comments#comment-200746 This reply shows the DeWalt DWMTCIR20 magnetic BlackTough case. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14363-wingless-accessories/?tab=comments#comment-200747 This reply shows both the N276779 blade box and the DWA4216 5-piece accessory kit box. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14363-wingless-accessories/?tab=comments#comment-201410
  2. Welcome to the forum. My method is usage of a fine file to knock off the burr in that instance.
  3. The seller recently located the missing blade guard, then called me to come pickup that part. What an outstanding person! That original blade guard is slightly different than the replacement I purchased. The original blade guard arm has a small triangular wedge stop on the end. That stop greatly decreases the usability of the blade guard. That stop limits raising the blade guard to inches above the table, only while it is manually held up. That is contrasted by the replacement blade guard I located / purchased. The replacement blade guard may be fully raised and stays in that position until manually lowered to the table surface. The recently-obtained original blade guard was modified to match the replacement blade guard by cutting off the small triangular wedge stop and by rounding the end corners. The exposed steel was painted for corrosion protection. Effecting this change requires removal of one push-on axle cap by careful prying off the end. IMO, this is a HUGE improvement on this part. Any users w/ the blade guard having the small triangular wedge stop should effect this change. The blade guard utility is excellent w/ this modification and not good before the change.
  4. Welcome to the forum. My guess is the skill / experience level is newbie, so safety first. Power tools, especially cutting tools, have the normal / expected operation, but strange / sudden / violent actions might occur during improper usage. Research the tools and the usage methods for maximum safety. Always wear safety glasses. Always mind finger location and blade location. All that being said, the most handy tool for the projects listed is a table saw. A standard 10" portable or shop table saw is invaluable for woodworking projects. My preference is good used tools. I shop on eBay, Craig's List and Offer Up. A standard 7¼" circular saw w/ a workbench or saw horses is useful, but less accurate than the table saw.
  5. Welcome to the forum. Assuming the question is about the steel blade surfaces, I have found that a hand-held loose utility knife blade (without the utility knife) is an excellent implement for scraping a surface clean.
  6. Welcome to the forum. That SDS Plus drill and bit look appropriate. The "fun" part is going to be chiseling out the center every time the hole saw bottoms out, about every 1½", using an impact device, like a hammer and chisel.
  7. Welcome to the forum. Check eBay, Craig's List and Offer Up on a frequent basis. Use generic terms like Craftsman router and examine the pictures, because the seller might not know about this random part. My set was purchased from the other side of the country by searching all of Craig's List and snail mailing cash. Another insert was included when I bought a totally different eBay router accessory, but I've already sold that extra part. Good luck w/ your table. Mine has been working and looking great.
  8. Welcome to the forum. Normal etiquette is to use normal capitalization, All caps is considered YELLING and is difficult to read. Please edit your post, including the subject title. Edit: ChrisK is correct. Again, welcome. All of these readability points are detailed in this Wikipedia page.
  9. A Milwaukee M18 Fuel 90-299-8001 16" long x 10" wide x 11" tall medium-sized tool bag was purchased for this tool. This is a nice 600 denier water-resistant top-zipper canvas bag, with six exterior pockets, two sewn / riveted handles and two sewn plastic click-snap strap attachment points. The bag has a smooth exterior canvas bottom surface. There are contrasting-color embroidered sewn logos on the exterior. Like this one: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Storage-Solutions/Soft-Storage/48-55-3490 The tool and all accessories fit nicely within the bag. There is also room for bottles of polish / compound within the bag.
  10. That would be my go to tool. My DeWalt DWE4214 4½ inch heavy-duty small angle grinder with my King Diamond 101-604 cutting wheel is what I would use. It is specified for: wet / dry porcelain; ceramic; marble and granite.
  11. Here is ceramic tubing. Good luck.
  12. My 2000 Searay 380 Sundancer was built from the factory with the optional 200' all-chain rode. This was a great option, with terrific holding power under lots of conditions. I built a snubber w/ a hook to hold the chain / absorb the shock during usage. There was a silent problem occurring, with the delamination of large sections of gel coat inside that anchor locker, that then clogged the two drain weep holes, causing rust near the bitter end of the chain. There was also exterior rust stain dribbling on the hull exterior below the drain weep holes, but it wasn't possible to see the interior problem, concealed below the anchor chain. An examination during the problem resolution, of my empty anchor locker revealed the exposed bare fiberglass hull to have a glossy surface, making gel coat adhesion difficult. My guess is operation during rough conditions had the chain bumping around, breaking away the poorly bonded gel coat. There were large sheets of loose gel coat, with pieces many inches long. My solution was to first scrape away whatever was possible to remove with a paint scraper. The next step was to vacuum sand the exposed fiberglass hull and to sand away any gel coat that was possible to remove without difficulty. All of the problem areas were above and below the internal loop eye, on either side of the centerline of the boat. That exposed bare fiberglass was painted with epoxy. A fitted plastic "wood" slatted shelf was made for the floor to space the rode an inch above the drain weep holes, while permitting the rode to drain / shed water and air dry. The rode was exchanged from all-chain to rope / chain. When I removed the original 5/16" chain it filled two five gallon buckets. Each bucket was very difficult to move because of the weight. My entire new rope / chain rode can be moved by me without difficulty. A cardboard template was created that fits the shape of the locker, an inch above the base. A tee bevel was used to get the internal hull slope. My Ridgid 4511 granite table saw was used to make all the compound cuts for this new plastic "wood" floor. The end result is exactly what I wanted. Now I don't have to worry about the drain weep holes being blocked. Everything will stay dry. Nothing will be beating on my hull. LOTS of weight was removed from the bow! Initial Condition - Chain Rode Removed Shelf Location Marked w/ Tape Cardboard Template Created / Fitted Ridgid 4511 Granite Top Table Saw Ripping Frame to Match Hull Slope Base Frame Parts w/ Cuts Permitting Bending to Match Hull Base Frame Trial Fit To Anchor Locker Base Frame Covered w/ Slats to Full Locker Width Platform w/ Extended Nose Added Covering Forward Gap Glossy Hull / Loose Gel Coat Sanded Prior to Epoxy Bare Hull Covered w/ Epoxy Anchor Rode in Completed Locker
  13. My Milwaukee 5460-6 11 Amp 0-1,750 rpm 7"/9" polisher has been a reliable workhorse tool for many years. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Sanders-and-Polishers/5460-6 This tool has a detachable 10' Quik-Lok two-prong power cord, a side handle (goes on either side) and a 7" rubber backing pad w/ retention nut. The tool has a variable speed trigger AND a variable max speed knob. The combined usage of both controls is intuitive during usage. These controls are well placed. The tool has standard 5/8"-11 spindle threads and a spring-loaded push button spindle lock, for quick / easy pads changes. My tool has been "easy" to maintain the exterior clean, but the fiber pads were accumulating interior contamination, so I disassembled for interior cleaning. I removed the handle screws, then removed each handle half. The tool rest was also removed, cleaned and replaced. The gear box was not disassembled. I instead pushed a rag through the openings to clean those wide narrow openings. Now it looks good through the vents again.
  14. Welcome to the forum. That activity is going to be difficult. A drill press may assist the effort, to have the drill to part angle and position maintained better. This link shows my Irwin 11119 extractor w/ Cobalt reverse twist bits. These have been used several times with great results. I don't have any hesitation recommending this kit. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14363-wingless-accessories/?tab=comments#comment-200814 Keep the replacement parts greased to prevent seizure.
  15. A NOS riving knife / blade guard was located and purchased. The steel thickness on this particular riving knife was too thick to fit into the slot, but the blade guard and arm were scavenged from that thick riving knife, added to my existing riving knife (missing the blade guard) and are a perfect fit for my saw. A hook was fabricated from a threaded eye bolt, then added to the rear of the saw cabinet to hang the blade guard assembly. Not shown, a straight stem was also fabricated from a threaded eye bolt and added to the opposite rear cabinet corner for hanging my push sticks. Now all is good with my complete saw.
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