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Everything posted by wingless

  1. Long ago I had a nice Craftsman router and Craftsman router table. Both suffered from long periods of inactivity and were sold. There are some upcoming projects where these tools will be useful, so I found / purchased some nice used examples. This topic shows my new to me Craftsman routers. My (new to me) Craftsman 171.25475 router table was mostly complete and in good condition. It was missing the 29L-202 / 1609441472 2" OD router table insert set that is no longer available for purchase. The cast / machined aluminum table had surface oxidation. The optional / extra Craftsman 25211 right / left steel table extensions had minor paint bubbling up from surface rust underneath the paint. The labels on the table edge and on the blade guard had degraded. That 45A-293 label set is no longer available. One of the great features for this table is the material used for the legs and the fences. The legs and the fences are molded using glass-filled plastic. The glass increases the strength and stiffness of the plastic. This model router table did not include a sliding miter gauge and did not include a front panel power switch when shipped / configured new from Craftsman. The aluminum table oxidation did not bother me. I used steel wool soap pads to polish the bare aluminum to a very nice finish. The steel table extensions were sanded bare then painted, now they look great again. One thing I didn't like about those steel table extensions was the formed side arms w/ screw holes for attaching to the table have a formed cavity between the arm and the table. That cavity collapses when tightening those screws. I used my shop press to restore the cavity shape, then carefully put small washers into those cavities during assembly, to permit screw tightening w/o collapsing the cavity. Note that final assembly of the steel table assembly is a two person job, at least on my router table. The extensions are loosely attached to the center table. One person pushes the upside down parts flat onto the surface, while a second person tightens the attachment bolts. This method ensures the extensions are coplanar with the center table. On my table, if the hardware is tightened as a one person operation, the side extensions droop down. The label artwork was recreated, then printed, adhesive added and these new labels were applied to the router table and to the blade guard. The biggest butt pain was recreating / cleaning up the old small SEARS logo in the top left corner. I used 3M Super 77 aerosol spray adhesive applied to a masked-off area on the table front and on the blade guard so they would stick to the surfaces. The correct Craftsman miter gauge w/ the optional 9-29504 hold down clamp was located and secured. Same also for the correct Kedu HY75 power switch. The ½" long 10-32 flat head screws that I picked-up at the hardware store to hold the router to the bottom of the bed did not work w/o modification. I needed to cut back the head adjacent to the threads because the table thickness was insufficient for proper clamping. Now the screws work great. Both the really expensive Craftsman MPP010105023 router screws and my modified screws are shown in the images. Now I've got a really nice / old router table. All I'm missing are the 2" OD table inserts. Router Table As-Received Router Table As-Received Router Table Polished - Original Labels and Original Table Extension Paint Router Table Polished - Original Table Extension Paint Original and New Reproduction Label Original and New Reproduction Labels Craftsman 25211 Steel Table Extensions - As-Received and Sanded Bare Craftsman 25211 Steel Table Extensions - Sanded Bare Restored Condition - w/ Sliding Miter Gauge, 9-29504 Hold Down Clamp, Power Switch and Reproduction Labels Router Attached to Bottom of Table and Power Switch Router Attached to Table Operation Manual Cover 29L-202 / 1609441472 Unobtainium Table Insert Set Craftsman MPP010105023 Router Table Screw - Showing Undercut at Head / Threads Standard Screws Modified w/ File to Include Undercut at Head / Threads
  2. Here are some more images of the completed router table and the final labels.
  3. wingless

    Bosch GSB 21-2 RCT drill for home use

    Welcome to the forum. This DeWALT impact driver would be a good single tool for your drilling and screw driving usage. An impact driver is vastly superior for driving screws in or out than a drill . With an impact driver the screw is driven w/ virtually zero damage to the head. If going this route, get this tool as a kit, with the two batteries, charger and case. The cost to add these items afterwards to a bare tool is significantly more than the kit cost. The linked Bosch MP500T carbide drill bit set and Milwaukee Shockwave drill bit set provide coverage in the drilling arena. There are several bit holders that are part of my kit. My go to bit holder is this DeWALT DW2507. I like the insertion / ejection action. No, this is not a drill. so it doesn't have the wide versitality of a drill, but for single tool, with the limited usage described by the OP, this is a very nice fit.
  4. wingless

    Bosch GSB 21-2 RCT drill for home use

    Overkill. That hammer drill would be great for masonry. Get a cordless impact driver for screws. Use that for drilling or get a cordless drill for drilling.
  5. A long time ago I had a really nice Craftsman Professional 315.17380 router, 14701 case, 9-25444 router table, 9-25179 edge guide and bits that suffered from a long period of inactivity, so they were sold. There are upcoming projects that require these tools, so replacements were sought and obtained. It turned out that I ended up w/ two routers, because both were good deals, one with two nice bit sets, the other with the 9-25179 edge guide. I also got a 9-25173 edge guide. Both routers have the nice Craftsman 9-1472 black Permanex polyethylene plastic cases. A router table was purchased separately and is detailed in this topic. One tool is the Craftsman 315.17381 router. This has the micrometer dial style depth adjustment. This also has a pair of base holes for a rod-style 9-25173 edge guide. When I obtained this router, the bare aluminum base casting had black marks, like large black greasy fingerprints, that could not be removed. I tried steel wool soap pads to polish the bare aluminum, but those marks remained. Those marks were removed and the castings restored to a new finish w/ fine grit random orbital motion sanding. This tool has a nice setup adjustment mechanism. There is a block w/ set screws that eliminate the play / slop between the base and motor, once properly adjusted. The result is a nice up / down movement w/ little / no displacement when locking the setting. The other tool is the Craftsman 315.17560 1¼ hp router. This has a large rotating ring, around the entire tool circumference to set the depth adjustment. Note that this adjustment style works best in normal orientation, w/ the base on the bottom, motor on top. If the tool is hung upside down, such as in a rotor table, this adjustment ring doesn't work as-intended. This tool also has a bright integrated internal light to illuminate the cutting bit. One bit set is the Craftsman 9-21297 18-piece Kromedge high speed steel router bit set. This has a nice case w/ plenty of room for additional bits of different styles and sizes. The flexing plastic hinge on my case failed, so I wrapped the back surface w/ 2" wide heavy duty Velcro and that became my hinge. The other bit set is the Mastergrip 480083 18-piece carbide tip router bit set. This has a nice metal-hinge / metal-latch birch wood case, w/ felt lining, foam padding and nylon shaft retention sleeves. The bits w/ guides all have nice ball bearing guides. The Craftsman 9-25179 edge guide is a great accessory. The existing router base is removed / replaced with the one from this accessory. The tool can be used w/ this base installed, with or without using the detachable edge guide part. This accessory permits accurate: edge; contour; trim; bevel and full circle cuts. The Craftsman 9-25173 edge guide is well-designed and integrates nicely with the Craftsman 315.17381 router. The two guide rods fit into existing casting holes in the router. The guide has a really nice fine-tune adjustment knob. This tool has both a straight edge guide and a contour finger guide. The Craftsman 9-1472 black plastic cases provide great tool storage, have a location for the 9-25119 edge guide and hold 14 router bits w/ ¼" shanks. Craftsman 315.17381 Router - Craftsman 9-1472 Permanex Polyethylene Case - Craftsman 9-25179 Edge Guide Craftsman 315.17381 Router - Craftsman 9-25173 Edge Guide Craftsman 315.17381 Router Base Polished Front Craftsman 315.17381 Router Base Polished Rear Craftsman 9-1472 Permanex Polyethylene Case Craftsman 9-1472 Permanex Polyethylene Case - Craftsman 9-25179 Edge Guide Craftsman 315.17381 Router - Craftsman 9-1472 Permanex Polyethylene Case - Craftsman 9-25179 Edge Guide Craftsman 315.17560 1¼ hp Router - Craftsman 9-1472 Permanex Polyethylene Case Craftsman 315.17560 1¼ hp Router - Craftsman 9-1472 Permanex Polyethylene Case Craftsman 9-21297 Bit Set Mastergrip 480083 Bit Set
  6. wingless

    Real or fake

    Welcome to the forum. Contact DeWALT to see if they have a way to determine real versus counterfeit. It may be that the old 18V battery is tired and a new / fresh battery will provide expected performance.
  7. Welcome to the forum. Here is an image. [
  8. Another way to get a flush bond is to spot weld.
  9. Welcome to the forum. This link shows the various rivet styles. https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/know-your-rivets A press is required to use the smooth rivets. The rivet length must be properly selected.
  10. wingless

    Reciprocating saw smokes

    Just call DeWALT and let them fix your problem.
  11. wingless

    Charging UK Dewalt batteries in the USA

    Welcome to the forum. The best option would have been to fully charge the batteries prior to leaving the UK. Select the US charger with the desired current output for maintaining your batteries. The DCB112 has a 2.0ADC output, good for the small 2.0Ah batteries. There is also a DCB115 with the 4.0ADC output, good for the medium sized 4.0Ah and 5.0Ah batteries. These chargers are 120VAC 60Hz only. The US 20V MAX XR batteries are the same as the 18V ROW batteries. The US is still selling 18V XRP tools, so a distinction is required to decrease confusion.
  12. wingless

    Space between the chuck on cordless hammer drill

    Welcome to the forum. According to the images on the Makita site, that XPH11ZB is supposed to have a gap between the chuck and the body. Enjoy your new tool. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/XPH11ZB
  13. wingless

    New Guy with a good Dewalt story

    No worries. My plethora of corded tools makes me a confirmed tool troglodyte too,
  14. wingless

    New Guy with a good Dewalt story

    Welcome to the forum. Good find on the tool. What is that wire thingy coming out of the handle?
  15. My recent purchase of a used Ryobi RTS10G 10" table saw left me disappointed with that tool. I really liked the features, portability, new condition and complete set of accessories, but I was disappointed w/ the bed not being flat, so I sold that tool and purchased this Ridgid saw as my replacement. http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14471-wingless-ryobi-rts10g-10-15a-table-saw/ The Ridgid R4511 granite top 10" table saw is a very nice tool. These were sold for a very short time at Home Depot in early 2009. Mine is a very nice example that I purchased used. The 1-3/4" thick granite top is a terrific feature. The top has three sections, there is a center part, plus two side wings. The tool includes a pair of heavy-duty support rails embedded into both sides of the top to hold each side wing, that also include adjustment set screws to get the side wings flush and coplanar to the center panel. My experience was that setup was straightforward, taking a reasonable amount of time, now when I slide a sharp corner block across the seams there isn't any edge felt, plus a straight edge across the surfaces show them to be coplanar. The granite is very smooth and slippery, making usage terrific. Everything about this tool is heavy duty. The tool mass is well north of 400 lbs. The granite top is the obvious weight contributor. Looking "behind the curtains" reveals that the mechanism is made of large machined cast iron sections. That construction contributes to the mass, strength and stability of the tool. The rip fence is great, with sturdy / large front + rear mounts, hook the rear tab under the rear angle iron, then lower the front onto the two-piece front box rail. The sliding miter gauge has a large / sturdy surface for pushing the part and stops at 90°, ±45°, with fine-tune adjustment screws for each. The large 3,450 rpm, 1½hp TEFC induction motor may be wired for 120VAC / 13A or 240VAC / 6.7A. The 5/8" arbor blade is belt-driven from the motor. The saw has 3-1/8" at 90° cut depth and 2¼" at 45° cut depth capacities. The rip capacity is 30" to right of blade and 20" to left of blade. One thing I found very surprising was the low / quiet noise from operating the saw. All my experience w/ portable direct-drive table saws were loud, this is quiet. Setting up for ultimate accuracy is "easy". When I got the saw, the sliding miter gauge slots were almost perfectly parallel to the blade. I loosened the top, slightly rotated, then tightened, now it's perfect. The 90° and 45° blade angle stops were almost exactly set correctly. When I went to adjust one set screw, it wouldn't budge. I eventually removed the cylindrical steel threaded insert from the granite top to discover that there was an excessive amount of thread locker applied to the screw, causing it to bind. The insert was super glued back in-place, the thread locker cleaned and now all is good again. The sliding miter gauge has side-to-side set screws that get a terrific fit in the bed slots. After a small amount of tweaking this now slides the entire length w/ no slop. There is a voluntary CPSC recall on the early serial number saws because the motor shaft would fail when using a dado blade. Mine is a later serial number that isn't affected. https://cdn2.ridgid.com/resources/media?countrycode=US&key=7cccef80-9c77-460f-86c2-3c972aac5d9e&languagecode=en&type=document The tool has an integrated dust extraction plenum w/ a 4" suction port. The tool has a Herc-U-Lift caster system for easy caster deployment for single-person tool movement, followed by easy caster retraction for returning to tool foot support. My tool includes a nice custom-made oak zero-clearance throat plate blade insert, a custom-made low-profile riving knife and ½" thick Delrin panels added onto both sides of the rip fence. My tool also has a nice custom-made side shelf, that is handy to hold the rip fence. The rip fence doesn't fit into the OEM side support brackets because the ½" Delrin side panels were attached. My tool has the 2.3mm (0.090") riving knife w/ spring-loaded anti kickback pawls, but is missing the clear plastic blade guard. That missing / discontinued part is not available to purchase. Granite Joints Prior to Adjustment
  16. wingless

    wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

    Yes, the Steel City Tool Works 35911 / 35926 and the Craftsman Professional 351.221160 table saws both have identical cast iron guts / granite top as my Ridgid R4511 table saw. https://www.amazon.com/steel-city-tool-works-35926/dp/b00a5u1x2o https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/zrq8qyae2w-000247
  17. wingless

    Dewalt miter saw won’t work in the cold

    Sure, coming from Mr. Tornado Alley...
  18. wingless

    Dewalt miter saw won’t work in the cold

    Welcome to the forum. Get out of Dodge, so the problem stays there and you get warm. It is highs in the low 80s and lows in the low 70s this week in southern Florida... The saw lubrication has either degraded or is inappropriate for those cold temperatures. When I relubricated my hole shooter the old grease was hard and the new OEM grease was great.
  19. wingless

    wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

    The Ridgid R4511 has a 4" dust collection port, as part of the bottom dust tray, on the bottom rear of the tool. The PO had modified the tool to seal up many of the exterior openings, in an attempt to improve dust collection / containment. One of those prior modifications was blocking the large opening on the top of the side door, adjacent to the bottom of the bed. The dust collection is being examined by me. Part of that examination is looking at internal airflow and internal dust accumulation patterns. One thing I noticed is very little internal accumulation near the arc shaped opening on the front panel, near the tilt pointer. Another is, greater internal dust accumulation at the corners, where lesser airflow exists. The tool will be used w/o the large opening on top of the side door blocked, instead operated w/ that unobstructed to determine if dust collection is improved by the air cross flow pattern restored.
  20. wingless

    wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

    The saw includes two brackets on the lower left side of the cabinet for hanging the rip fence, the sliding miter gauge and the throat plate. The saw also includes a hook, for hanging the riving knife and blade wrenches. The ½" Delrin side plates added to the rip fence sides increased the width of that part making the brackets ineffective to hang all the parts concurrently. The PO included a shelf that rested / attached to those brackets, but I didn't like that solution. My solution was instead to place a wood spacer between those brackets and the cabinet. Now those brackets again work as intended.
  21. wingless

    wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

    The PO modified the saw to seal the box gaps to improve dust collection. One of the modifications was an adhesive foam strip weatherstrip, on the large door, between the saw stand box and the door. That would have been fine if the PO also replaced the closure screws w/ a longer screw, to account for the additional thickness added by the foam. Instead the original screw, which was now too short, was just pushed harder and screwed to grab enough threads, breaking the plastic. Fortunately that recently-added adhesive foam strip retained the broken parts, permitting me to effect a good repair. That plastic side door was repaired using West System 105 Epoxy Resin, West System 206 Slow Hardener and Whitaker Oil Company 3/4 oz Fiberglass Mat. I also used Evercoat black color agent to tint the epoxy color, from clear to black. https://www.westsystem.com/the-105-system/epoxy-resins-hardeners/ https://www.whitakeroil.com/ http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/base-part/100503/us/ This West System epoxy is great. I've used this for many projects. This gets mixed as five parts resin to one part hardener, either by mass or volume. I use my digital scale, tare the cup, add the resin, divide the mass by five, multiply by six, then drip in hardener until the scale shows the correct mass. Easy. The parts clean up great w/ acetone. The part was masked off to limit the repair area. That included a small tape wad in the hole. Layers of epoxy and layers of fiberglass were applied to the broken area, using a disposable paint brush to ensure the fiberglass was fully wetted and bubbles worked out. After about an hour, before the epoxy was fully hard, but while it had stopped running, the tape was removed and any leakage was scraped away. The next day, after the epoxy hardened, the edge was sanded smooth and the hole drilled open. The screws were replaced w/ longer screws, I used M5-0.8x15 black pan head screws. Those now fit fine. The repair worked out great. The screwed-closed door seals fine without the foam weatherstripping, added by the PO, that I removed. The gap is not air tight, but the air leakage is minimal.
  22. wingless

    wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

    This image shows the eccentric, where the gear and collar are coaxial w/ the shaft, but the eccentric nut / sleeve has an offset internal shaft bore. This shows how rotating the nut/eccentric will change the spacing between the pinion gear and the rack gear. On mine, it took a breaker bar, a 14mm crowfoot wrench and massive force to break the 9-year stationary eccentric free. Once free, a regular combination wrench permitted normal rotation for the proper setting. !!! Please remember to block the motor during this adjustment so it doesn't fall suddenly if the gears disengage !!!
  23. wingless

    wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

    The new-to-me tool had an issue where I was unable to fully tilt 45° the blade because the rack and pinion tilt mechanism gear set would skip a gear tooth, just prior to reaching that tilt. The tool was cleaned and lubricated, but that didn't resolve the problem. The solution was determined and implemented. The tool has an eccentric sleeve, P/N 089037005154, item 73 on Parts List Figure B. That sleeve has an exposed 14mm hex head, like a nut, shown in the image adjacent to the block. The rotation of that sleeve brings the worm gear shaft closer or further to the pinion gear. (Note that I supported the heavy motor mass during this adjustment so the motor wouldn't / couldn't suddenly swing if the gears disengaged.) When I rotated the sleeve to bring the pinion gear closer to the rack gear this restored normal full-swing operation of the tilt mechanism.
  24. wingless

    belt sander belts

    Welcome to the forum. Sorry, but I don't understand the question. The 4x21 belt is standard. How does the 3/4" mentioned factor into the question? It is possible to DIY a belt sander seam. There are many online topics showing how.
  25. wingless

    Date of manufacture

    Welcome to the forum. According to the Service Parts List effective date, the serial number range starting with 907D started in November 2005. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/support/manuals-and-downloads?search=6154-20 If made in another country, then that nameplate label should have the country of origin listed.