wingless

Lots of people use those rust conversion coatings. My preference is instead to sand away the rust (or blast in your case), then paint w/ Rustoleum Professional paint. I would use their primer, then their top color paint.

Welcome to the forum. Why not provide annotated images showing the problem?

Really digging the shovel topics...

Agreed, mine is not used frequently, but it is (has been) sooo nice having a LARGE frame jack for the greatly increased stability and safety when compared to the standard homeowner jack.

About 30 years ago I purchased a used / rebuilt / old commercial Hein Warner hydraulic floor jack. This has been a dependable workhorse tool for me. This has been my go to jack for all my automotive service projects. I REALLY love the large, stable, heavy-duty frame. My automotive work that requires the vehicle suspended in the air ALWAYS includes blocking two wheels, lifting the opposite end of the vehicle from a chassis member, then lowering the vehicle frame onto a pair of heavy duty jack stands on a stable surface. If required the process is repeated for the other vehicle end. Recently I decided to retire / upgrade / sell my old Hein Warner and replace it with a new Hein Warner HW93657 4 ton floor jack. Other than the cost I am very happy with that decision. The new and old are similar but different. The biggest difference is the method for using the handle to position the far end side-to-side. The tool is massively heavy so positioning the far end requires the large handle lever to lock from downward movement, so additional downward pushing raises the wheels near the saddle, permitting moving the handle left / right to move the saddle right / left. The old jack had a locking pin control near the tee handle, locking the lever in several positions. The new tool doesn't have ANY lock and initially I was lost for how to effect that required positional movement. Instead the new tool has the expected tee handle knob that rotates to release or hold hydraulic pressure, but it also may be pulled to release a pin. The pin permits changing the pump arc position. The 90° pump arc, from the large handle pump lever vertical to that lever horizontal is segmented into three ranges. This permits using the large handle pump lever to arc to the bottom of one of the three ranges, then push down further to lift the wheels near the saddle for positioning. It initially sounds confusing, but after using it several times it becomes very intuitive. The tool has VERY smooth movement when raising or lowering. When going from hydraulic turned from the hold pressure stop position there is a "large" (less than one turn) dead zone before affecting the saddle height begins. It is super easy and very controlled to get the desired position / speed result. Dimensional Info: Front wheels / axle: 12" wide - outside to outside of front wheels 4¼" diameter 2¼" wheel width Rear Wheels / "Axle" 12" wide - outside to outside of rear wheels 2¼" diameter Saddle 7" Cup OD 5-3/8" Cup ID 1" Cup Depth ½" Cup Lug Height 3/4" Cup Lug Width Handle Pump Lever 48" Lever Length - Pivot to Tee 11½" Tee Handle Width 2" - 2¼" Knob OD Frame 6-3/4" Wide ½" Side Plate Thickness Chassis Length: 49" Long Specification Min / Max Saddle Height: 5" / 25-3/4" Height Specification Mass: 219 lbs, Gross Weight Specification (Unbelievably Heavy)

For some reason I have been detailing many family vehicles recently. In every single case the bane of these projects was getting the carpeting clean like new. THE MOST SIGNIFICANT difficulty was getting all the dog hair out of the carpeting. My two shop vacuums had similar results, even my new DeWALT shop vac. Both would remove everything that was visible and much that was buried in the carpet fibers, but when I returned later I would again see random dog hairs. I also used my Kirby home vacuum w/ the belt driven carpet brush, but it wouldn't get every single hair from the carpeting. A toothbrush near the vacuum crevice tool was used, again. not everything was removed. My recent purchase of this Libman 15 Small Scrub Brush triggered me to consider using this brush on the vehicle carpeting. The bristles on this brush are VERY stiff. Boy, am I GLAD I used this brush on the carpet. The process was to vacuum clean, probably this was the 15th time, then use this scrub brush working many different motion patterns. I tried back and forth, one direction, circular, and motion w/ the wide / narrow in both orientations. The first time I brushed my "clean" carpeting the top surface was covered w/ dog hair. That was again vacuumed clean. This process was repeated many times until virtually nothing was revealed from the brushing. The first image shows vacuumed prior to brushing. Next is a small amount of dog hair contamination after a late stage brushing. The final image shows it again vacuumed clean. Before Brushing After Brushing Final Vacuuming

My ancient Craftsman 6.0 hp 16 gallon shop vac has been doing fine (after multiple repairs) over decades of usage. A recent Costco visit had this DeWALT DXV10SA 10 Gallon 5 hp 10A 90 cfm stainless wet dry vacuum on sale and I determined something smaller would be waaay more handy for cleaning the car and inside house projects, relegating the 16 gallon Craftsman to the workshop. It turns out that was a good decision... This DeWALT vacuum has lots of nice features and a few minor points that could be improved. These are things I REALLY like: All four wheels are 2.2" OD 360° plastic swivel casters. This thing is super easy to move around. The power head to tank retention has two large arc lever latches. This provides a VERY secure attachment and easy release. The bright yellow rocker power switch is HUGE (1-3/4"x1-1/8"), easy to see against the black background and easy to use. The rubber pull / stretch hose retention tether works well. The tool bag is great. I was initially apprehensive about not having slots for each tool, but I have come to like just tossing everything into the bag. The bent hoop just plugs into socket receptacles on the vac. The crevice tool opening (business end) is well designed. The vac works by air flow. The crevice tool has half circle side bumps that not only space away from the surface but are also handy for working the surface. Something like removing dog hair embedded into car carpeting is better w/ this crevice tool. The LARGE central tee handle on the top makes carrying the vacuum easy, balanced and intuitive. It also permits winding the power cord for storage. (Unfortunately the power cord attaches to the power head below the hose and the wind is above the hose, so extra steps are required for proper cord storage. The retained partial twist knob on the DXVC6910 general purpose filter works well for easy removal / replacement. They also offer the DXVC6912 fine dust filter and DXVC6914 HEPA filter, but I was only able to find aftermarket versions of those parts. Easy to use tank drain w/ nice rubber seal. Note I did not use the filter bag. My plan is to only use the central canister filter. Here are areas for improvement: Raise the power cord attachment to the power head to above the hose to make winding the cord onto the handle easy. Put a 360° swivel onto the tool end of the hose. There is already a 360° swivel on the tank end of the hose. The 9.8' / 3m power cord would be waaay better if it were a little longer. As an example, when vacuuming the SUV I need either an extension cord, or need to unplug / feed under the vehicle to plug into the adjacent receptacle to clean the other side. The DXV10SA vacuum kit includes these parts: 6.8' / 2.1m 1.9" OD hose Open top tool bag, 11"x4"x12" deep Instruction manual Filter, DXVC6910 general purpose filter Filter bag, DXVA19-4101 Two 19½" long wands 8" long crevice tool 3" OD brush tool 7"x2½" rectangular tool 10½"x2½" rectangular tool w/ removable brush / squeegee insert Circular tool w/ three reducer attachments. End OD: 1.22"; 0.89"; 0.67" and 0.25"

Correct, but maybe there was an unusual application that required jaws like these to be effective.

Might be a specialized split ring expander.

When I go the Greenworks Shop by Voltage web page, I find 24V, 40V, 60V and 80V, but no 82V platform. Where is the 82V Greenworks platform? NVM, there are plenty of vendors selling 82V Greenworks tools. Weird that those don't show on the company website.

There are lots of ways to use batteries to create the 240VAC RMS, a transformer is just one way. There are solid state circuits to create line voltage AC from a DC battery. Three 80VDC batteries do not attain the 340VAC peak voltage.

Please be aware that 240VAC RMS is 340VAC peak-to-peak. Here is an example that uses FET transistors and a transformer to change low battery voltage to the required high output line voltage.

Greenworks 80V 14in/16in Trimmer Kit, Model STB409 The Greenworks 80V 14in/16in trimmer kit, model STB409, is a very nice tool. If this satisfies your needs, then I have no hesitation recommending this tool. It has nice features and balance, when used w/ the included 4Ah battery. The tool comes w/ the bump advance spool loaded, ready-to-go. The tool needs minor assembly for usage, remove small packing protecting the internal cable at the shipping fold, slide the tube into the receptacle and tighten w/ included Allen wrench. Attach the protection shield, also Allen whench tightened. Attach the loop handle, retained by a single large wing nut. Done. I have not and probable will not use the included loop strap. My caveat is run time. My postage stamp sized property used up most of the included 4Ah battery pack to trim all the edges remaining after mowing w/ the 14" diameter setting. At least I also have two 2.0Ah battery packs from my blower kit, so I have sufficient capacity w/ a sufficient buffer, plus two charging stations. This Greenworks 80V 14in/16in trimmer kit, model STB409, includes these parts: PRO 80V 14"/16" STB409 trimmer; a 4.0Ah 80V BAB727 Lithium-Ion Battery Pack; a GCH8020 80V / 2A 120VAC 50Hz/60Hz Vertical Charging Station; five precut 0.095" nylon string bundles; an Adjustable Length Clip-On Padded Loop Carry / Work Strap; an Allen wrench for tightening at initial assembly and Printed Manuals for the Blower, the Battery Packs and for the Charging Station. The STB409 trimmer has nice features. These are: large / easy variable speed grip squeeze trigger w/ large safety trigger; two speed slide switch; integrated hanging hook; string bump advance; preset string length trimming blade (supplied at 14" diameter, reversible for 16" diameter) and easy battery retention / release. The bottom of the battery cavity has a large spring loaded automatic ejection button. Press the release and that button partially ejects the battery pack for easy removal. The 4.0Ah 80V Lithium-Ion battery pack has a three segment charge gauge, activated during usage by a single button press / release. This 80V 4.0Ah battery pack is a mid range capacity. The higher capacity battery packs are longer, protruding farther out the top of the tool. The retention latch mechanical feature is at the same placement, relative to the base, for each of the different battery sizes. The 80V / 2A GCH8020 vertical charging station is designed for operation when placed onto a horizontal surface. It has a standard polarized NEMA 1-15 plug on a 6' cord. There are no controls, just fully insert the battery pack. There is a single dual color status LED, w/ an easy-to-read LED decode legend label. It blinks green when charging, solid green when fully charged, solid red when the battery temperature is too hot and blinking red when the battery is bad. There was one instance when my empty battery was inserted and I got the too hot indication. It remained in the charger and automatically started charging once the temperature dropped. The manual says to remove but I wanted to see what happens. The battery pack segments provide a level indication during charging, showing the progress. My preference would have been for the charger to permit operation as a wall mount device, but that is not possible w/o making a shelf for this to be placed upon. I have not timed charging a depleted battery, but according to the specs, the 2Ah battery should require about an hour and the 4Ah battery should require about 2 hours. The actual times are in that range.

Greenworks 80V 730 CFM / 170 MPH Blower Kit, Model 2421702COVT The Greenworks 80V blower kit, model 2421702COVT, is a very nice tool. If this satisfies your needs, then I have no hesitation recommending this tool. It has nice features and balance, when used w/ the included 2Ah batteries, or when used w/ the 4Ah battery from my trimmer tool. I have not and probable will not use the included loop strap. My caveat is run time. My property collects leaves on the front lawn, especially at the street edge, from the 100' tall tree across the street. My usage is to clean leaves off the lawn, driveway and most of the cul-de-sac circle. This kit includes two 2.0Ah battery packs. Cleaning this area consumes both battery packs. At least I also have a 4.0Ah battery pack from my trimmer kit, so I have sufficient capacity w/ a sufficient buffer, plus two charging stations. This tool now makes it possible to maintain my property to be clean of leaves w/ acceptable effort. I blow off the lawn, the driveway and most of the circle, into a ~20' diameter pile, that is then swept and collected into the City yard waste barrel. It has never looked better and has never taken this little time. This Greenworks 80V blower kit, model 2421702COVT, includes these parts: BLB489 80V 730 CFM Axial Blower; two 2.0Ah 80V BAB726 Lithium-Ion Battery Packs; a GCH8020 80V / 2A 120VAC 50Hz/60Hz Vertical Charging Station, an Adjustable Length Clip-On Padded Loop Carry / Work Strap and Printed Manuals for the Blower, the Battery Packs and for the Charging Station. The BLB489 blower has nice features. These are: large / easy variable speed grip squeeze trigger; trigger lock knob; turbo boost button; integrated hanging hooks, nozzle up or down and easy battery retention / release. The bottom of the battery cavity has a large spring loaded automatic ejection button. Press the release and that button partially ejects the battery pack for easy removal. The 2.0Ah 80V BAB726 Lithium-Ion battery packs have a three segment charge gauge, activated during usage by a single button press / release. This 80V 2.0Ah battery pack is the lowest capacity. The higher capacity battery packs are longer, protruding farther out the end of the tool. The retention latch mechanical feature is at the same placement, relative to the base, for each of the different battery sizes. The 80V / 2A GCH8020 vertical charging station is designed for operation when placed onto a horizontal surface. It has a standard polarized NEMA 1-15 plug on a 6' cord. There are no controls, just fully insert the battery pack. There is a single dual color status LED, w/ an easy-to-read LED decode legend label. It blinks green when charging, solid green when fully charged, solid red when the battery temperature is too hot and blinking red when the battery is bad. There was one instance when my empty battery was inserted and I got the too hot indication. It remained in the charger and automatically started charging once the temperature dropped. The manual says to remove but I wanted to see what happens. The battery pack segments provide a level indication during charging, showing the progress. My preference would have been for the charger to permit operation as a wall mount device, but that is not possible w/o making a shelf for this to be placed upon. I have not timed charging a depleted battery, but according to the specs, the 2Ah battery should require about an hour and the 4Ah battery should require about 2 hours. The actual times are in that range. The long output pipe and the concentrator nozzle may each be removed. I have used the tool w/ both attached and it works fine for me.

As a self-affirmed troglodyte I remain entrenched and well-set in my ways. My yard tools included usage of the power head on my 120V Craftsman 6.0 hp shop vac for my infrequent usage as a yard leaf blower. My string trimmer was a used $10 yard sale 120V, manual advance string, now w/ a reworked / broken advance that was even more cumbersome than originally intended. My daughter was visiting, we stopped at Costco and she purchased a Greenworks 80V blower kit, model 2421702COVT. I asked if I could borrow / use this tool, prior to her returning home. Once I used it I was hooked and decided to get my own, so I went to Costco and of course they were all gone. The clerk informed me blower inventory existed at different stores, 30 minutes away in opposite directions. I selected the store w/ a greater quantity, supposedly having 17 in stock. But while I was at this store I purchased the Greenworks 80V 16in trimmer kit, model STB409. When I arrived at that "far" store they had 4, not 17, but at least I got my own blower...

Also cool. And also waaay too small for my discs, including the flap wheels. My tool and accessories are all stored in this DeWALT DWST17807 TSTAK II Flat Top Toolbox. The box size is ideal to hold everything, including the Allen wrench, right angle handle and alternate blade guard. All my accessories are in zip bags, one disc type per labeled bag, all bags contained within a repurposed nylon pouch. My Weber gas grill cover had a tethered pouch for folded cover storage that I snipped off for usage holding my discs. For all my tools, my preference is for everything to be contained within one tool case or bag, whenever possible. An example of not possible is my SDS-Max tile and thinset tool. It is waaay too huge to fit within the Bosch RH540M tool box.

With this being the front yard, my neighbors can attest w/ certainty and w/o hesitancy that my conduct demonstrates certifiable insanity... Now that other projects are ongoing I have MUCH less visibility to the spectators. (Plausible deniability)

That's really nice, but I have waaay more discs than would work w/ many of those containers. Mine are organized in HD zip bags w/ labels.

Thanks always for the kind words. These images show the lamp post installation and wiring details. The front yard was dug up, sifted of weeds / roots / rocks and replaced. All of the old / new buried services were changed at that time. Some images show the piles of sifted dirt and the untouched weeds / grass. The 1" Schedule 40 PVC EMT conduit was run diagonally across the yard. My 100' Greenlee nylon fish tape was used to pull my two sets of 12/2 UF cable through the conduit, one switched for the light, the other w/ continuous power for the post convenience receptacle. (All power is properly GFI protected upstream.) At the post location, I dug deeper and compacted drainage rock below the post. If water (which should not be present) ever gets into the post, I wanted a path for it to drain. My hand compacting tool shown in some of the images is very handy for this stuff. The vertical lamp post was slid over the conduits (in and out). An empty 5 gallon bucket was modified to remove much of the bottom, so it could be slid over the lamp post, then used as a form so the surrounding dirt could be packed against the bucket. Once the dirt was compacted the bucket was removed. Now there was a nice cylindrical hole for the post concrete base. Then wet concrete mix was compacted around the post perimeter in this newly formed hole. Dirt was then moved to cover the conduit and concrete. Deep Compacted Dirt at Post Location Compacted Drainage Rock at Post Location Conduit Run to Post Location Conduit w/ One 12/2 UF Cable and w/ Nylon Fish Tape for Second Cable Wet Concrete Mix Compacted Around Lamp Post Dirt Spread Now Covering Concrete and Conduit

There was a terrific NOS post lamp that was severely damaged during normal handling, revealing insufficient construction process. This broken lamp remained idle in the original carton for decades (waiting for me...) The lamp is constructed of antiqued copper and brass, w/ beveled glass panes and fluted glass skylight. This fixture has three candelabra sockets and I used LED candle bulbs. The lamp is very heavy. The manufacturer unfortunately designed the construction to depend upon the corner solder joints for upright ribbed copper bars to maintain the structure. Solder is not ideal for maintaining structural integrity. Long ago, during normal handling, those solder joints failed, permitting the lamp to disassemble and some of the beveled glass panels to shatter. My current home "needed" a post lamp, so I was determined to repair / restore this fixture. My Master VT-750C adjustable 1,000°C heat gun was used for soldering disassembly / assembly, using their 3/8" pinpoint nozzle. This tool was ideal for the project. Once disassembled all the copper solder joints were scraped clean to bare copper. I used normal 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder and brush on flux during assembly. Unlike the initial assembly I created a very good solder fillet at each joint. Copper is an excellent heat conductor, so I needed fixtures (instead of hands) to hold the parts during soldering assembly. I used binder clips to hold the parts together during the soldering. Those binder clips were perfect for this task. There were three types of vertical ribbed copper support bars. One had the door hinge attached, one had the door latch strike attached and the remainder were "plain", so the placement was important. Each bar had a top / bottom. as the scraped to bare copper for soldering were on opposite sides. My careful strength testing revealed my construction now had sufficient strength for the application. My plan is to remove the fixture (easy) during tropical storm preparation to avoid storm problems / damage. The prior damage included three of the flat isosceles trapezoid windows being shattered. That original window had a ½" wide polished edge bevel. Unfortunately having someone create an identical replacement was waaay beyond the budget for this repair (impossible for me to recreate the polished bevel), so I instead got a sheet of flat window glass and cut it myself. It isn't possible to see the difference, even when standing next to the lamp. The replacement parts cost was minimal. When I tore up my front yard, I ran a dual circuit within conduit to the post lamp location, one for the lamp, one for a convenience receptacle. The post lamp is on a timer w/ photocell, for on at dusk, off at 11 PM. The receptacle always has power and has been very handy. The LED bulbs consume very little power and this post lamp is an excellent addition to the overall landscape lighting.

Welcome to the forum. There is a lever, pivot pin and a spring on that mechanism. It is very simple. On my tool the spring is strong, making the effort for releasing a high squeezing force. Has lubrication of the pivot pin been tried? Did that help? Is there physical damage, such as a bent pivot pin or bent lever?

Welcome to the forum. Sorry, but I don't understand why you are contacting a class action attorney if the truck damage happened to a coworker's truck. The DeWALT instructions provided w/ every tool are very clear. They also make sense. The printed instructions state: "Do not store or use the tool and battery pack in locations where the temperature may reach or exceed 104 °F (40 °C) (such as outside sheds or metal buildings in summer). For best life store battery packs in a cool, dry location." Many people are aware that there is currently a global heat wave, w/ extreme temperatures. The lithium-ion batteries should be stored properly.

Welcome to the forum. VERY nice tool. An excellent score... Thanks very much for sharing! That is superior to anything currently available, unless it must be relocated to a different location by lifting, as the mass will greatly exceed that of an aluminum truck. The replication of that truck will require specialized skills, including casting large aluminum parts, aluminum welding and creating mortise and tenon joints. Uncertain about how to add the rubber to replicated wheels. Fortunately the square nuts are available.

Welcome to the forum. My advise is to not run over landscaping wiring. You're welcome. If the question also includes resolving the problem w/ the mower, my suggestion is to manually move the blade adapter back and forth while tugging on the wiring. If it is required to remove the blade adapter, then the reason is doesn't come apart easily is that the mating parts have distorted slightly during usage. A two arm or a four arm puller is the tool I would use for that disassembly. Another very useful aid would be to embed the parts within ice for hours prior to removal, to get everything REALLY cold, then to quickly remove the ice and specifically quickly target JUST the blade adapter near the shaft (NOT the shaft) prior to using a MAPP gas propane torch, along with the puller tool. It might aid assembly to VERY lightly remove corner burrs on the mating parts. Use feel to identify / reduce anything that feels abnormal. DON'T go wild w/ a file on those parts.

Welcome to the forum. No experience w/ the DCP580N but an examination of the tool indicates that the tool will provide that level of control. It would be an exceptional tool if the knob also included negative numbers, to add material when required...