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Mycrossover

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  1. I totally doubt your numbers. There is no way the tool would not cost several times the going price. Add shipping cost in for good measure. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  2. After owning a sailboat that lived in salt water I can tell you that stainless fasteners in aluminum are as good as welded. Go get the drill. As to other situations, Alden Grabit extractors work very well. They even drill their own starter hole, that only needs to be a dimple. For me, they worked much better than the more common style extractors that need a much deeper hole. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  3. I found the complete parts diagram at Jack's Small Engines but you are not going to like what I found. The gear assembly is serviced as a unit It is $36 and change plus shipping. Since Makita never sold the individual gears and other small parts, you will never find a diagram. That is a 12 volt NiCd drill with a 1300mah battery. It must be ancient. You can get a far better Lithium drill for what it will cost to fix that one. You probably need a battery, anyway. Just for experience, I would try and put the gear aasembly back together and see if it looks like a washer is missing. If so, you should be able to find something that fits. Time to look at new drills. There plenty of moderate price drills from Makita , DeWalt and others that will be far stronger than yours and run longer and hold a charge for much longer. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  4. I vote for the impact wrench. It has never failed for me. I usually start with the hammer and allen key because it is quick and easy but if it it does not come loose in a couple of whacks I am on to plan B. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  5. There is another thread covering this in detail. If I have the right Milwaukee, the thread was not the usual 1/2-20 but Rhom brought out a keyless chuck in the correct thread. You have to first find out what you have. The other thread should clear that up. No pun intended.Then go chuck shopping. If it is 1/2-20 you have more options in keyed and keyless. Rhom is still excellent. Jacobs is owned by Apex and now made in China. There are still some USA's floating around on ebay. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  6. Per NEC, a 20 amp circuit (20A breaker and #12) may have 15A or 20A receptacles. I see no advantage to installing receptacles to accept plugs that barely exist. The miter saw has a 15A plug. I have come across 20A plugs exactly once, in a commercial setting on semi stationary equipment. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  7. I just googled it and the first Youtube video for the 1150A shows the table being adjusted with an adjustable wrench. To have a crank you have to have a gear rack on the post and a pinion gear on the table. The 1150 appears to have neither. The table is adjusted with a simple pinch bolt. I checked another 1150 video and it appears to be the same thing. If you have something different post pictures. If you have the gearing it should be pretty obvious what type of coupling would be needed to engage the pinion gear. There are all sorts of cranks and handles at MSC. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  8. From the link picture it looks like a pretty common keyless chuck. I/2" chucks typically have a 1/2-20 thread but there are quite few exceptions. Take the old one off and see what thread it has. A good Brand of replacement chuck is Rohm but they can be expensive. There is new keyless Makita on ebay right now for around $33 with the shipping. If you want to go cheap and it is 1/2-20 thread for with a keyed chuck. You can probably find a decent one for around 10 bucks. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  9. 1/4 to 1/8 collet reducers are common. Try MLCS. They ship free with no minimum. The problen is the Dremel flex shaft does not chuck in the 1/8 collet, like a bit. On the Dremel, you must remove the collet and collet nut and the plastic nose piece which has a very seldom seen 3/4-12( other than rotary tools) thread. Then an adapter nut screws on the collet thread. It has a,square hole in the end to accept the flex cable. The flex cable goes into the hole and a plastic nut on the flex cable sheath screws onto the Dremel where the nose piece was. The smaller 12volt milwaukee rotary tool is compatible but probsbly not the bigger one. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  10. You should have said who denied making it. I ran the number in the UL approval sticker, hoping to find out who applied for the UL aporoval. As soon as I ran E227927 I got a hit for Northern Toool and pictures of a red miter saw. Some pictures said Ironton, one of their house brands. I hope NT was not the one you talked to. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  11. I had a similar problem with a Honda powered pressure washer but it was the commercial GX series motor, not the GC. I have a Husqvarna chain saw that would not start after sitting. It is the damn methanol.It gets in the idle passages and makes a gummy mess. There is nothing for it but to clean out the carb and switch to the little overpriced cans of methanol free gas. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  12. I assume item #4 has a shoulder that is thicker than the blades you are using. Can you get a spare and just file a little off the shoulder so there is snug fit? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  13. Not surprising; they bought SawStop. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  14. Google " installing aircraft rivets" They are solid rivets that are air hammered from one side while a dolly is held against the back. In things like leather work they use 2 piece rivets that are put together in the same way. They are very flat on both sides but not exactly structural. In both cases the rivet grip range must be matched to the thickness. That is also true of blind "pop" rivets. If you use the shortest one who's grip range covers your thickness, there will not be a lot sticking out the back. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
  15. You can buy a US battery charger or buy a transformer type converter. They take 120 in and put out 230. Some are reversable and can be fed from the other side, being fed 230 and putting out 120. Stepping AC up and down is done all the time. The difference in frequency should make little difference in this application. A ways back met someone from a 230 country with a device he brought with him. He had been sold a transformer intended for Americans traveling abroad, It stepped the voltage down instead of up. I opened it up and reversed the cord and socket connections to the transformer and his 230 device ran perfectly. Your charger draws 1 amp at 230. That means that the smallest transformer should have no problem. It would only draw around 2 amps from the 120 receptacle. We are talking about a transformer rated at alittle over 230 watts. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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