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  1. Hi Guys, hoping someone might be able to answer my problem as I can't find anyone who knows what's up! I'm having a problem with my DeWalt Circular Saw DWE576, I purchased recently with two rail guides. The edge of the splinter guard never seems to align up to the blade of the saw. So when it comes to placing the rail guide onto the mark, it never cuts on the line, always a few mm off? I followed the instructions, set the blade depth, adjusted the cams and slowly cut the rubber strip fully on a sacrificial piece of wood, but time after time when I use my rail I notice the rubber strip seems to get thinner and thinner. Now when I set my rubber strip to the mark and expect a clean cut to the line (as you should right?) It's actually 2mm out, which just defeats the quick and easy point of having a rail guide. I always start cutting into the wood when both cams are on the rail so there's no chance of side to side movement, and I let the blade finish before I take it off the rail in case of any kickback or unwanted accidental cuts. I bought a new rubber strip to replace the old one hoping it wouldn't happen again but it did! Don't want to buy a 3rd and it happen again 😅 can anyone give me any advice please? Thanks!
  2. Well, well, well...DeWalt just shipped a new Jobsite Table saw and I was wondering what you all think of it? I am providing a link to an article that talks about it, but was curious to hear if this was the feature set and size customers were looking for. Seems like 8-1/4" is becoming more popular, but is it really preferred over the 10" blade? https://toolguyd.com/dewalt-jobsite-table-saw-dwe7485-022020/ Couple things stand out to me on this new model...I like the steel miter gauge, seems like many of the competitors are shipping these sized models with cheap plastic ones, so that seems like an upgrade. The table seems a bit unusual in that they have four extensions in each corner but the top of them are tapered, rather than tapering the bottom so the top would remain level. As it is a table saw more area of usable table would seem like the best plan, the decision to taper the top of them just seems unusual to me what say you all. From the picture it appears the vacuum attachment is on the blade guard, I wonder if there is a second one underneath? It has what looks to be a new style On/Off switch as well.
  3. What ideas for new tools and accessories do you wish dewalt would come out with in 2020. Share your Thoughts and Possibly Dewalt will see this thread and take our ideas into reality. I will start Flexvolt Tool Connect (For Dust extraction) batteries Flexvolt Tool Connect Miter and Table Saws. Basically an Updated Flexvolt Miter and Table saw to include built in Tool Connect to communicate with the 60v dust extractor. Also Tool Connect batteries so you could use your existing miter and table saws/ other tools to connect to the 60v dust extraction and have automatic on/off when the battery is drawing power.
  4. A trip through the archives of Tools in Action and ToolGuyd displays how far the cordless tool market has come in the past decade or so. Early articles on each site capture the look of the 2008-2011 tool market, and there are many gems that cover the tools available back then--established brands, new products, and optimistic predictions of what the future would look like. Well, it's the future, and I'd venture to say that few of us expected the cordless job site to look like it does now back in the dark days of 2009. The tools have gotten smaller, smarter and become brushless, and a number of brands have cut the cord on tools that necessitated a generator or other power source just a few years ago. Not everything has changed, though, as Ryobi One+ was already over a decade old and the M12 and M18 lines were getting off to a decent start. DeWalt, on the other hand wouldn't release 12v Max tools until 2010, with 20v Max coming about a year later. Anyway, the point of this thread is to examine exactly how the cordless tool market has changed since 2008. If you have the time, share a few articles from way back when along with anything you want to add.
  5. Hell every one, thanks To all of you for continuing to share your experiences and knowledge. For some time now I’ve been using the dewalt circular saws, I’d say I’ve owned 7-8 of them. I currently own 4, two flex and 2 20v. The reason I’ve had to keep buying them is the bed plate is always working it’s way out of square to the blade. I’m framing with them and I usually have at least one other guy with me sharing my tools. I try to be gentle, but they never seem to last longer than 6 months with a true bed plate... ive had 20 year old makita saws that have been beat up huge, but this has never been a noticeable issue with those saws. To my questions! does everyone else have these issues and does anyone have a relatively easy fix or suggestion for this issue? ive asked people and searched online far and wide but no one seems to be talking about this issue. The service guys at dewalt don’t think it’s a big issue. Sometimes they will fix it under warranty if I have the receipt of within a year by replacing the whole base, bevel and all. The guaranteed repair is $140, And a tool only saw last time was $150. looking forward to you feed back
  6. I buy stuff and then never get around to using it. I need to get rid of some of this stuff to make room and funds for something new. All items include USPS shipping from Queenstown, MD. Flexvolt Grinder, DCG414B - $130 -sold Flexvolt Grinder, DCG414B - $130 - Sold pending funds Veritas Medium Shoulder Plane w/ PM-V11 blade - $190 - Sold Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane w PM-V11 blade - $225 - Sold 4x Bessey BPC-H12 1/2" Pipe Clamps - $60 for the set. If someone wants everything I'll do $675 shipped USPS. None of these items have been used. With the exception of the grinders everything is in its original box. The grinders will each ship with all accessories except the Dewalt bags. Photos Below Please note that the shoulder plane has some black marks on one side, I believe this is from when they did the center fill area. I did not notice it when I bought it, but also did not remove the plane from the box when it arrived or I would have requested a replacement. I'm sure those more knowledgeable than I know of a way to remove it, but I didn't want to risk damaging it just to clean it up to sell. It is also possible that it is ink from the manual.
  7. I'm invested in both 40V and 60V platforms. Is there a difference between the two battery chainsaws? I know they operate at different voltages (duh), but voltage doesn't equate to power; watts do. Are there subtle differences between the two units that are not advertised? https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/outdoor-power-equipment/40v-max-xr-16-cordless-chainsaw-bare/dccs690b https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/outdoor-power-equipment/flexvolt-60v-max-cordless-chainsaw-tool-only/dccs670b
  8. Hi I’m just wondering if anybody else is having a problem with the dewalt flexvolt 12” mitre saw? The problem I have come across is when the power adapter is used with a dust extractor. When the vacuum is switched to tool mode it starts straight away and will not turn off, the saw still works but to stop the vacuum you have to turn it off manually (will not shut off as supposed to). The vacuum is fine it works with all other corded tools. Any information will be appreciated. Cheers Michael
  9. New at the forum Got 11 years experience repairing power tools like milwaukee dewalt hitachi makita bosch ...
  10. I was at my local flea market and found some Dewalt batteries 20 v all different 3,4,5,6 AH with dewalt branding on them that look 100% legit at less than half of retail price. Are there fake batteries that look exactly like the real deal out there? Any experience with flea market dewalt tools?
  11. Hey everyone I’m new here, I’m a retired Philadelphia Firefighter and own a small Contracting company that specializes in Marine Construction, Docks, Decks, pilings etc. Although I’ve been doing a lot of laminate plank flooring lately whatever pays the bills, Anyway I live in a very small resort town on the Atlantic Ocean called Diamond Beach it’s just above Cape May Nj . I just purchased a New Dewalt circular saw today model DW358, if you’re scratching your head saying they haven’t made that saw in over 20 years he’s got the wrong number well you’re right and wrong.They haven’t made it since the mid 90’s but I found one today at a Local mom and pop Hardware store so I called Dewalt and since I have a receipt they said I can register it even though some of the replacement parts are discontinued. Just wondering if anyone else has had anything with new old stock and what the manufacturer told you?If anyone remembers Hechinger they were a big box store like The Depot or Blowes! This is where the saw came from originally but when they went out of business my local guy bought a bunch of stock. Check out the pictures and I’ll see you on the high seas! P.S. this was made here in the good ol USA! Regards Captain Jack
  12. I've been hunting around for a set of DWMT80432 ToughBox lid storage compartments, and while I can't find a vendor to save my life, I also can't seem to find any mention of a discontinuation, a reason for recall, or even a complaint about them only being overseas. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Love the 60" box, worth every penny, but the casters and lid storage were on my short list to round it out.
  13. First Post: Hi everyone, I've recently moved to the US from the UK and have brought my Dewalt tools with me. I'm having real difficultly deciphering how I'm going to be able to charge my batteries now that I'm here. I've had a lot of conflicting advice from several people so thought I'd turn to the real experts. I've attached two images of my current batteries and charger. The options I've been suggested so far are: 1) Just use a USA to UK adapter with my current setup, it might charge slower but it'll still work. (My concerns with this is that the charger states it wants a 230V input which it isn't going to get so might not work) 2) Buy a DEWALT DCB112 charger (photograph attached). Charger states it charges '12v/20v' which to my UK brain says it will charge either 12v OR 20V and not my 18V batteries. I've also read that the US 20V batteries are essentially the same as the 18V batteries, can someone shed some light on this for me please? 3) Buy some USA 20V batteries and they'll work fine in my 18V UK tools. (Seems a very expensive solution to me!) 4) Find a Dewalt charger with a US plug that charges 18V batteries however I don't think such a thing exists! (Unless it is the DCB112?!?) Naturally option 1 is the cheapest and I'm not too concerned by an increased charge time as I can rotate batteries easily but don't want to risk damage to the batteries (both short and long term). Any help appreciated! Thanks, Will
  14. Working outside in -20 degree Celsius. My miter saw doesn’t want to fire up right away, it screeches and slowly turns for about ten seconds and sometimes starts to smoke before it starts spinning normally. It keeps working fine after that if I’m continually making cuts. The blade is stiff to turn by hand too before I get it going for the first time. All my other saws (skill saw, table saw etc.) work fine. Only have a problem with the miter saw.
  15. I have a DEWALT Portable Hand Planer (D26676) and I can't seem to find a dust collection bag that fits the this tool. It's not just a regular circle so I can't just use some adapter that would fit it. Does anyone have a solution to this?
  16. After being in the trades, mostly carpentry and rental properties, I finally decided on Tstak as my choice of toolbox system. I have grown into a mostly interior trim carpenter and love these boxes. I have used all the brands and I was using a combination of the Milwaukee organizers and the 26" Jobsite box. At the same time I was using the Ridgid pro boxes for my bigger routers/planer etc. I was waiting for what ended up being Packout from Milwaukee, but the price is too high. And I thought the Ridgid system was too heavy.... I put a cap on my truck and now I no longer have the need for watertight boxes. I've worked at companies who use Festool tools, and I like the Systainer but the price is too much for an empty box, for me. And the whole idea of modular tool boxes is that everything goes into one. Maybe one day I'll put Festool tools and put in Tstask, lol. Another company I worked for was using the Tough System and I like it a lot also, but it's also a little heavy. They were not using it to it's fullest with carts/wall/van brackets etc. They were new to the modular tool box. If I go to a van I might switch to Tough System just for the wall/van brackets. Over time I will add some photos of actual tools in the boxes and the setup. First round, was the Craftfsman set I got locally, still had to drive an hour to touch some Tstaks in hand. Checked that most tools will fit with accessories etc, combo certain tools together. Now the Craftsman "Mobile Storage" bottom box with wheels is bigger than the standard big Tstak and will fit Sawzalls and longer bigger items. The wheels and extending arm look like the weak point, wheels will pickup sand/mud/snow on the inside. Second round, I ordered one of the Home Depot sets with nice upright trolley and drawer/big boxes. A much better designed wheel system than the "Mobile Storage", as nice as the Festool Sys-Roll for the price. Plus it folds down. Also to note some boxes/combinations can only be purchased at certain places. HD has their boxes and Acme has some boxes not available at HD, vice versa. Most DeWalt suppliers(lumberyards) can order any of them I've found.
  17. Sitting here enjoying the snow in the DC area. While the accumulation so far is miniscule compared to that usually encountered further north, I'm comforted to know that in a pinch I can keep my phone and tablets charged with DeWalt, Ridgid, or M12 batteries, power small items with the DeWalt power station, generate some heat with the Ridgid forced air heater, run the ToughSystem radio for entertainment, light up the house with the various DeWalt and Milwaukee lights, and warm up with the M12 heated gear if needed. I don't expect a power outage--or even missed time at work--but days like this it's nice to know I have a few day's worth of backup energy for such conveniences. Does anyone else find confort knowing that being a "tool guy" makes you just a little better prepared for a short duration emergency?
  18. Does anyone know if the "thrust bearing," the dime-size circular ball bearing ring in the pivot recess, is supposed to be lubricated? I can see factory lube on the O-ring that surrounds this area, but I can't tell if the ball bearing ring should be greased or not. Mine was all choked with sawdust, so I blew it out with compressed air and would like to know before I put it all back together whether or not the factory wants that to be lubed. Thanks.
  19. So I recently unfortunately had about 80% of my cordless dewalt tools stolen. As sad as it was to lose most of my tools that meant I get to buy new tools!!!! And who doesn't like to buy tools!!!! So anyway I bought the flexvolt new stuff since all my tools were about three to four years old. So I bought these tools within a two month period . Worm style drive saw. Miter saw 12inch flexvolt. Flexvolt Angle grinder. Flexvolt table saw. A few days ago I was using my angle grinder and I had a very small bind so the break engaged and I thought pretty cool safety. But then the grinder didnt turn back on!! So I thought maybe its the battery. So I changed the 6ah battery and tried all the other ones. I have 6. 6ah and 1. 9ah battery . Nothing !!!! So I called dewalt to try and figure out it theres a brake release switch or something. But no there is no button lol. I talked to the very nice lady from dewalt and she gave me the address to a service center to take a look at it and determine what's the problem. I thought ok cool no biggie. So today I got to work and had to install a bunch of base so I set up my miter station and everything.. the I go to start my first cut and nothing happened no power. So I checked the battery and it's all green lights on all batteries. Nothing works . None of my new tools work . So my first reaction was to call dewalt to see what I can do . I go over to the service center and keep in mind I'm upset so I'm going there with the intention of argument . But let me tell you!!! As soon is I walked in I was greeted like as if they were waiting for me. I explained and they said they will replace all the batteries and they took in all the tools to see what happened. I turned in flexvolt table saw-flexvolt miter saw -flexvolt grinder flexvolt worm style drive . I'm still upset that I lost a big part of the day and we all know time is money. And I'm on a super tight deadline Ive set for myself. Luckily I have a corded 12 inch miter saw so I still got my goals done but that's not the point. And thank goodness for the 18g battery power brad nailer . So at the moment I have no idea what happened to the flexvolt batteries or the tools . None of the tools turned on. I'm extremely happy with the customer service of Dewalt.
  20. Before I begin, let me recognize the fact that many of us here and on similar forums are somewhat receptive to owning tools from different brands, being capable of recognizing that the "best" isn't always proprietary to a favored tool brand. Also, though this thread will naturally concern tools in general and power tools in particular, a representative example of how close-minded some people are can be had in the endless debates on which truck brand is best. Ford guys stick to Ford, GM to GM, Dodge to Dodge (or Ram to Ram I guess nowadays), etc. So, how many of you have met someone so blinded by loyalty to a certain brand that they refuse to acknowledge that sometimes that brand comes up short? Such consumers sometimes waste tons of money on products that receive poor reviews or that are inferior to offerings by competing brands (sometimes even at lower cost), yet become rabidly defensive when confronted with facts or differing opinions. In this thread I'll share my thoughts on a few of these types of individuals as well as their potential motivations for staying loyal to their preferred brand at all costs. First, a couple of valid (IMHO) reasons: 1) Wanting to restrict the number of cordless tool platforms: cordless tools take batteries which can be quite expensive and which usually require separate chargers between brands and/or voltages. Even if a tool company doesn't offer the absolute best tool for the job, necessity sometimes dictates that a slightly inferior tool is purchased for the sake of battery compatibility. For example, a company that runs M18 tools might not desire to buy DeWalt nailers, even though they seem to perform better than Milwaukee's current offerings, since doing so would incur additional costs to buy and maintain batteries for those. Another example might be considering whether or not to buy a FlexVolt circular saw when one already has 20v Max. Sure the FV battery can be used with existing 20v Max tools, but the reverse isn't true, making the jump into the new system pricey if only one tool is to be purchased. 2) Availability: the availability of tool brands is subject to a person's location. In some areas, one brand may be easy to obtain while another may be impossible to find locally. Add in factors such as authorized repair centers and other customer service aspects of ownerships and use, and the effect that a brand's availability has on loyalty is evident. While home improvement centers have made common tool brands readily available in most areas, they have also limited that same availability to an extent. Consider Home Depot's two proprietary brands, Ryobi and Ridgid. Both have a loyal customer base that swears by the tools, with the former appealing more toward novices with some definite professional use and the latter sometimes considered an underrated brand that competes with premium brands. Both are only available at Home Depot, however, limiting owners of said brands to shopping there in person or online. This has the opposite effect of limiting those brands' appeal to tool users who might otherwise be interested. As a Milwaukee owner, should I buy the fan that my local hardware store carries and have instant gratification? Or should I order a Ridgid version, wait for it to be shipped, and have to use the internet if I have any issues with it? I had the opportunity to expand into Metabo tools for cheap a couple of years ago, but passed on it as I knew that I'd be unable to find additional tools and accessories locally once the supply ran out. Now, on to some less logical reasons: 1) Country of origin (COO): let's face it, few tools, and fewer power tools are domestically manufactured anymore. Yet some people may point towards COO as a reason to only buy one brand while ignoring another. I have a large number of DeWalt tools and often point out that some are assembled in the US. I usually add the fact that some others are made in Mexico but most are of Chinese origin. Why? Because I'm misinforming people who are less familiar with tools if I imply that DeWalt produces all of their tools here in America. I've read comments around the internet from people slamming Milwaukee because of its parent company while praising DeWalt for supporting the local economy. Some people even confuse a brand's name with its COO; I'm sure some of you have met a person who though Milwaukee tools were made in Wisconsin. The same holds true for Bosch (German), Makita (Japan), and other brands whose names denote the country they were originally founded in. For better or worst, the majority of power tools are sourced from mainland Asia now, regardless of whether the name sounds American, German, Japanese, or Ethiopian. 2) Tenuous claims: most companies market their tools as being superior to other brands, often using data that is skewed to put them in the best light. Some people fall victim to this tactic, considering x brand to just be better than y brand because the packaging says so. Amusingly, these same people are quick to call foul when another brand claims to offer something "their" brand doesn't. Since I've mainly covered brands that most of us recognize as solid performers, I'll pick on the perennial whipping boy of tool retailers: Harbor Freight. Harbor Freight seems to rely a lot on having the best prices, often coupled with deep discounts making good deals absolute bargains. In turn, they gain a lot of loyal fans who stop there before even considering another retailer, since they just assume that no one can beat them. This tactic has doubtlessly led to decent sales on their newest cordless tools despite the fact that more tried offerings from the likes of DeWalt and Milwaukee can be had at little, if any, more cost. I can't name how many times I've heard someone lavishing praise on Harbor Freight while dismissing the very thought of paying a little more for a lot more quality. Deceptive ads comparing tools and accessories to name brands costing much more leads people to believe that they are getting more for their money. In some cases, yes. In many, no. 3) "'Cause I said so": this is akin to the truck brand argument touched upon in the opening paragraph. Some people just allow their experience and pigheadedness to make them oblivious to reality. I have owned DeWalt and have had no problems with their cordless tools. I also own Milwaukee (albeit much fewer tools) but have an issue with the trigger on an impact wrench. Should I sell my red tools and badmouth the brand as producing substandard garbage? Of course not. Should I place both my yellow and red tools on a pedestal and declare them vastly superior to all tools because they are mine? No, most major tool brands, even lesser tiered ones such as Porter Cable and Ryobi, offer exceptional value to customers, and no amount of he said, she said will change that. In other words, let our experiences enlighten us, but we should never refrain from trying out something different if we need to. 4) "It's the best, why buy less?": this can sometimes be justified by the want or need to restrict platforms, but if we find ourselves buying a $300 tool for a one-off project because it is red, when a green one can be had with battery and charger for half the price, we might be drinking too much Kool-Aid. This is the most subjective entry on this list as it really does depend on a number of variables, but it could be viewed as compromising versus not doing so. Brand loyalty sometimes finds us choosing a certain tool not because it is truly needed but because it is the best compromise (even if it is overkill) and it's offered in our favorite color. If I need to drill a few holes in masonry but lack a hammer drill, do I buy the M18 Fuel SDS-Plus, or consider the much less expensive Ryobi? If I'm going to use it more than once, maybe. If I'm not even certain I'll keep it afterward, why waste the money? Ultimately, we decide what is worth spending our hard earned money on. Brand loyalty can be advantageous to our bank accounts but it can also drain them. In a similar manner it can make us appear to be snobs, or worse fools, especially when two hardheaded people with different opinions start arguing over whose tools are better. I guess it's all part of the joy in having so many options available, though; maybe it's me who is the fool writing such a lengthy post about this.
  21. Does anyone know of a source who might have any of the old two drawer tough boxes for sale? Maybe on close out??
  22. I have a 14.4v DeWalt drill/driver that wasn't used for a couple of years. When I try to use it now, it generally won't turn the first time I press the trigger. If I try to rotate the motor shaft by hand - by grabbing the chuck and trying to twist it - I can get it to move just a fraction of a inch. After that, the drill works. If I stop for a while, I have to do it again. If I switch between the drill's 3 speeds, I generally have to do the same thing again. I have the impression that by trying to rotate the motor shaft, I might be breaking it loose from being stuck and then it works. Sometime just shaking the drill vigorously for a second makes it work again. Any ideas what might be the problem? I'm going to dismantle it and see what's going on in there, but wanted to check a forum first. Thanks.
  23. A year or so ago I had about $600 to burn on tools and really had no pressing needs. I debated a metal cutting bandsaw, but ultimately decided on a decent quality scroll saw. In the days of CNC, scroll saws are fundamentally obsolete, but I had a lot of fun as a kid playing with dad’s old Craftsman scroll, and I do enough crafty shit to make some use of it, so I said what the hell. After a bit of research, I decided that the Dewalt 788 was the best bang for the buck in my price range. It’s made in Canada by Somerville who also makes the high end Excalibur saws, was well regarded by the surprisingly robust scroll saw community, had a broad set of accessories available, and hey, it’s yellow and matches most of my other big saws. I spent a little extra to set it up right. I added the light kit, a lift (the arm will not stay in the raised position on it’s own), and aftermarket blade tightening knobs. I ordered a few dozen Flying Dutchman blades, and made a blade rack to keep everything tidy. Still on the fence about the foot pedal, but we’ll see. The saw sat virtually unused for awhile. Just didn’t have time to fool with a new skill, but I recently got around to it. I’ve been mostly practicing with hand drawn patterns and such and haven’t gained enough confidence in my skills to take on a meaningful project yet, but let me tell you something, it’s a hell of a lot of fun. The unexpected side effect of having this saw has been me having to get in line to use it. Both of my 9 year old boys drive me crazy about using it. They’ll spend hours drawing things and cutting them out. They’ve been exposed to tools their whole life, but this is by far the most interested they’ve ever been. Both are proficient enough after a couple weeks to use it safely with very limited supervision. It’s really an unexpectedly enjoyable hobby. Takes very little wood, there’s thousands of patterns freely available, consumables are cheap, mess is minimal, and even a 4th grader can pick it up quick. I’m finally going to take on my first actual project when we get back from the beech, but even after setting unused for awhile I will say I’m glad I made the investment. Anything that gets kids off the PlayStation and into the shop on their own accord is money well spent as far as I’m concerned. If you haven’t tried scrolling, it’s definitely something to consider.
  24. Both programmable lights with 360 coverage, both about the same height, Milwaukee's is brighter, but there's a huge price difference ($200 or so for the DeWalt vs $599 for the Milwaukee). Is there anyone who has experience with one or both that could shed some light (clank) on how these compare?
  25. I have been using the DeWalt DC725 1/2" Cordless Hammerdrill/Drill Driver to drill holes into poured concrete with 1/8" and 3/16" DeWalt masonry bits. I hadn't ever drilled into concrete before. It is taking me a good 10 minutes to drill one hole 1 1/4" deep (1/8" bit) or 2" deep (3/6" bit). Sometimes it takes less and sometimes more time than that. I have tried applying the drill with various pressure and have settled on "moderate" pressure. After drilling more than a dozen of these I realized I had many more to do and bought a DCD950 XRP 1/2" Cordless Drill/river/Hammerdrill. (I was under the mistaken[?] impression that an impact driver would be better than the DC725, and the DCD950 would be even better than that for drilling concrete.) It turns out that the DCD950 is not drilling any faster. This is with a brand new DeWalt DW5221 Rock Carbide Hammer Drill Bit. At the moment I am planning to return the DCD950, but I have no idea what to do. I can't afford much more than a $150 tool. Any idea why I am experiencing such poor performance? --And how to speed it up?
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