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Found 11 results

  1. Issue raising Table Saw Blade

    Recently picked up a used (but seems well maintained) Bosch 4hp table saw. Probably about 4 years old. Sturdy contractor grade. Works fine BUT when turning the blade elevation and angle wheel to raise the blade as the wheel turns it tightens until I hear a popping noise then it loosens momentarily and repeats the process until it gets tight enough to pop again. The blade does still raise and lower but figure something in there maybe about to break. While lowering this doesn't happen and it moves smoothly. I've thoroughly hunted around on the under side, cleaning off gears attached to the wheel and shaft behind it and looked for anything obvious/damage. Any thoughts guys: next trouble shooting steps, something obvious I maybe missing, etc?
  2. Here is the finished product of my overarm dust collection attachment for my Ridgid R4512. Everything below will let you know how and why I did what I did. I finished connecting all of my tools to my new dust collection system recently. Now I am just tweeking some connections to optimize my dust collection abilities. I've wanted an overarm dust collection system after the first time I was it on the SawStop cabinet saw. You might not think so, but with a zero clearance insert plate on my tablesaw, I end up with a good amount of dust coming off the top of the blade....especially if I am cutting thicker stock. Last week, I collected a lot of images off of the internet with what other people have done. In case you were wondering, there isn't a lot of different units out there. I have the Ridgid R4512 tablesaw and this unit has one really useful feature that a lot of different saws don't have that makes add-ons to this unit simple. the back railing that the fence rides on is made from two pieces. In order to connect those pieces, there is a small bar that sits in a tee track and connects the two pieces. Since this bar only takes up about 6 inches (if I remember correctly) there is plenty of space to add an outfeed table and this overarm unit. I just used some toilet flange bolts to connect this unit to the saw through the T track. I had some of the unit welded up by a friend, but I didn't have all of the measurements, so I had to bolt some wooden braces to the unit. This is temporary, so I will fix this soon. I made the dust collection shoe so that it can be lifted up and down from the saw blade. I still need to add some 2" bristles to this unit so I can slide the stuck under it and not affect the dust collection ability. I attached to springs to the back of the arms to assist in the lifting of the shoe. It really makes it nice for lifting and holding the unit in place. I have the ability to move the shoe close to the blade either way to fit what I am cutting by adding some threads to the square tube I added to my smaller square tubing. You may have noticed the bungie cord attached to the top of the horizontal arm. It was added since the long section of the arm has all of the weight and bounces a pretty good amount. I have more permanent fix for this problem that I am going to have taken care of before the end of this week, so I will share pictures then. I still need to add the 2.5" hose to the shoe as well as the saw stache. I just wanted to see if this was possible before I ordered the parts......so follow up pictures to come.
  3. So what are your thoughts on a portable table saw for a woodworker? I know a lot of people who are stuck for space like me or are on a tight budget do it but what I don't know is exactly what kind of accuracy they receive. I do expect a lot from my tools, for example, I expect this to give me good reliable accurate repeatable cuts with a very accurate/solid fence that once set up correctly it will stay there! The first thing I will be doing is putting a new high-quality blade in it just to make that clear! As for the mitre slots as long as they are parallel to each other and I can adjust the table so they will run parallel with the blade I'm happy. I know better than to expect the mitre gauge to be useful for anything more that a paper weight. I will be making many jigs and probably buy a quality aftermarket mitre gauge. And also a flat table as without that I am completely wasting my time! I Have narrowed it down to two saws. But do point out any other saw thats along these lines that may be worth taking a look at. Bosch GTS 10 XC 254mm Table Saw. DEWALT DWE7491 240V 250MM TABLE SAW 825MM RIP CAPACITY. When looking at the at the couple poor reviews(only 2% give a one-star rating for the DeWalt saw) for either of these saws they are often due to things like previously mentioned... accuracy of fence, the flatness of table, mitre slots are not parallel. And even how much side to side play is there on the Bosch sliding table? It makes me wonder are they unlucky or is it that most people wouldn't check or even notice these things as they do not work / expect the accuracy that I and they select few do? I would greatly appreciate hearing what ye have to say mo matter what it is. I don't believe I am the only one in this boat! Thanks, Jack.
  4. I'm an aspiring, green-as-grass woodworker and don't have a miter or table saw. I'm under the impression that table saws are the way to go if you have to choose between one or the other, so I'm going to buy one first and then get a miter if needed. I'd like to stay within budget (meaning $300 or less) and prefer one that's portable. I've heard a lot of good things about DeWalt's DW745 and DWE7480, and like how compact they are. If I were to go with them, I'd still end up purchasing a stand (whether roller or stationary). I've also heard good things about Kobalt's table saw with built-in roller stand (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-15-Amp-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Table-Saw/50056619). It's listed at $279, making it cheaper than both DeWalts, and often goes down to $199 or lower on Black Friday. I like the fact that the stand is included for that price, but am aware that it's attached to the saw. Still looks like a solid deal, and it can also use dado blades. Any feedback or suggestions for which way to lean? Thank you!
  5. repairing 1950s table saw

    more pic too come
  6. I am really loving this industry push towards a cordless jobsite. With Milwaukee and Ridgid coming out with proper battery miter saws and Dewalt with their miter saw, table saw and power source the future is almost here. Can we all agree that stationary tools/saws/room lights/fans and vacuums should all have receptacles for an extension cord? Even Ryobi can afford to put these on their moderately priced 18v light and fan, both. I am looking at the purchase of a Milwaukee miter saw, but without a way to plug it in..... this is kind of a deal breaker. Future table saw, lights, fans and small vacuums will also get the same thought process. You do you guys look at this?
  7. Hey guys I need some tips on cutting come Faux wood blind valences (The top part that covers the head rail. I need to make a few 45degree angle cuts and some other straight ones. I just very slowly and gently tried to make some straight cuts on my table saw and it tore and chipped up the wood pretty bad. I was thinking of just doing the straight cuts with a hacksaw. But no idea how the hell I'll be able to do the angled cuts. Help!
  8. Table/Miter Saw Combo

    I sometimes browse the internet looking for tool innovations, and at one point run into the European market for tools there I found out that most well known manufacturers as Dewalt, Bosch, Makita and many others make a Table Miter saw combo machine, but for whatever reason has never been offered in the US, I have been doing installations as a professional for over 10 years from Interior Trim, Flooring to Windows and Doors, to make a long story short, I have been craving the above mentioned machine, well finally there is a manufacturer that will sell it here in the United States, it is a little pricey but for someone who makes a living moving to 2 to 8 job sites in a a single day it may be well justified. Here is a link to the tool I want to get the opinion of fellow woodworkers and re-modelers. http://www.specialtytools.com/combination-table-miter-saw.html Also if anyone has an idea why these hasn't been offered in the States sooner, I understand It has been available for quite some time overseas.
  9. I recently acquired a direct-drive Craftsman 315.218050 table saw which works, but the motor shaft assembly rattles loudly when it spins down. My guess is that a shaft bearing is going out, and I want to replace it before it does more damage. I found that I can get an arbor shaft assembly for a reasonable price, but I don't know just how to install it. I have separated the motor from the cast (aluminum?) gearbox but don't know how to open it up to get to the shaft assembly inside. Here are two photos: As you can see from my photos, there is a retaining ring holding the shaft in place. It has a set of bump-outs on both "ends." I'm guessing that's there to allow a tool to unscrew it. But I tried to turn this piece counterclockwise several times and it's not moving in or out, as it would if the housing were threaded. Anybody have an idea how to get this open? Many thanks!
  10. DW745 blade alignment

    Setting up a new 745 table saw out of the box. The blade, although parallel the miter slot, is so far off center in the blade slot that the kickback pawl on the right falls into the slot. The blade alignment procedure in the manual only seems to work for squaring, not for repositioning the entire blade. Anyone encounter this?
  11. hi, I just bought a new dw745 table saw. The problem: At 0 degrees the blade is pretty much perfectly parallel to the fence and miter slots. It is off by about 0.3mm or 0.015 inches from front to back of the blade. However, as soon as I tilt the blade to 45 degrees, it is off by as much as 2.5mm or 0.1 inches. Which makes a terrible because not straight cut. Is there any way to fix this? Why does the difference change between 0 and 45 degrees? Any help would be really appreciated. thx, andrej
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