DC Motor to controller to plug

[typo]

Recently i stripped my treadmill, and i admit i dont know much about electrics, but diy and learning are two things i like most, i believe no questions a silly question, and i hope you do to, cause i have a few silly ones to ask you all  

Now ive been on a forums asking for advice, and im still a little lost, so thaught id come to a tool site to makesure im on the right track

 

i have a DC motor Perm Magnet 1500w 230vac, i have the controller board, however its not in best shape, and id like to control its speed to make a lathe, /sand grinder etc

il attach 2 videos of the motor, video 2 being clear and showing magnet restriction when wires connected.

 

 

we have talked about triacs and bridge recifiers and alsorts, and the suggestion i have is 

DC motor a heavy duty light dimmer  bridge rectifier and a ~100 - 250 uF capacitor 

 

(on the controller its 450-470 uf capacitor, but i dont know if thats for the whole machine, or where this awesome guy who helped me got numbers from, 

 

 

ive seen a few controllers that i think would work....  but im worried im gona blow the motor or me or waste money on the wrong thing, 

im hoping, you guys can confirm this is what you would do as im sure many of you here have done this. 

 

ive emailed reebok as i cant find anything online to give me full spec of the motor, not sure what i need to match up tbh.. there is vdc..vac ...volt,,watts... ive no idea 

i learnt the laws on Vac, and im reading other things but its confusing at time, i learn on practical alot, and i cant get in there n look so im finding it hard lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CEBEK-R-10-230V-MOTOR-SPEED-CONTROLLER-1500W-/131648839032?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

i find things like this.. but im still stuck as to how to make it hit the god damn wall lol, 

if you dont do u dont learn, if people stop when they get stuck and give up, noting would get done, so abuse me asmuch as you like i love salt and i dont mind the banter, 

im a pleb and im proud! nah honestly thansk for taking the time to read this i sure your feeling my pain after trying to decipher my text  

 

 

 

[BMack37]

All you really need is to regulate voltage going to the motor to change speed, the easiest and safest way to do that for A/C is a variac.

[BMack37]

BTW a 1500w 230vac motor will also be 6.5 amps.

 

VDC is DC, your motor is AC or VAC. For a DC motor you'd need a rectifying circuit(bridge rectifier or diodes) then you'd need a Capacitor and a bleeder resistor at MINIMUM. The cap smooths out the voltage so it's a steady voltage. The bleeder resistor will discharge the cap when it's turned off or it will still be supplying power to the motor for however many seconds it takes to discharge the cap with just the motor.

 

With a variac, all you do is plug in the variac, wire it to the motor and use the knob to adjust voltage. Again, this only works for an A/C motor.

[typo]

So the other forums wanted to kill me lol.

Motor is definatly a Dc magnet motor, not a/c

So dont need a variac as thats for a/c?

Does this help at all 

[BMack37]

That label says it's AC. Not just by the voltage but by the Hz, 50/60Hz means it accepts a sine wave goes +220V to -220V 50 to 60 times a second. DC doesn't have a sine wave, its like a plateau.

 

This is characteristic of DC through an oscilloscope

 

So being that Hz(Hertz) is a measurement of cycles per second, Hz isn't applicable to DCV.

[BMack37]

A Variac is indeed for AC. You can use it for DC but you'd need an AC to DC converter, so you'd need the rectification, cap and bleeder resistor(At minimum). I actually built one for my Variac so I can have an isolated variable DC power supply, most often used for testing LED strips. Though that seems lie a moot point because that label indicates its an A/C motor. 

[typo]

Really ? But if i connect the 2 wires off te motor i have resistance on fly wheel, this shows permenent magnet though and thats a dc its also got brushes ?

 

I was asked

rFirst check to insure the motor you have has brushes,  "

 

Which is my video, showing the magnets

And i can find loads about treadmil motors on google talking about dc and hz ?

 

And tis is my motor sales parts site i found it online says dcmotor and hz again 

 

http://www.partsfortreadmill.com/index.php/greenmaster-industrial-corp-b1h-220v.html

 

the sticker is from the treadmil its self , could this not be when its changed to ac for tyhe wall ??

 

On the main controllerr it came on it goes through a bridge rectifier too. Everyone and online sales says its a dc though

 

 

 

I hope somthing i posted helps

 

[BMack37]

Ok, I got it. The treadmill is rectifying the voltage, the label is saying the treadmill is rectifying the voltage. You're right, you just gave me the wrong label, haha. Ok so you're going to need to have a variable DC inverter of some sort to have speed control. Where are you located? Asking because I want to know what kind of voltage is coming out of your wall.

 

BTW, the good thing about electric motors is that you can pretty much feed anything into it and it will work. So you should be able to put in 30VDC to 300VDC and not have an issue, it's just going to spin faster and get slightly hotter at a higher voltage. You could probably put 400VDC into it and that thing will fly! I wouldn't recommend that high because it will shorten the life of the motor.

[typo]

Haha cool thats awsome, and im glad lol i thaugh what i had learnt was wrong ..again lol learnings so fun . cant believe i figured that out ..only took me 3 hr on google :# 

 

Im uk ..from what ive learnt its 230vac here with the 6⅝ up 10% down rule (220 -240) dont quote me lol ur probly after somthing els ..yeah im uk bro

 

And thankyou for putting up with me lol

[BMack37]

Yeah UK is 230VAC 50Hz.

 

No worries, glad to help but I'm going to stop short of helping you design a circuit. There are risks with that and I wouldn't want to be held responsible if something goes poof. You should be able to find schematics online, you might want to check for variac pricing too. The components to make an A/C to DC converter are less than a beer, the variac isn't cheap but not too pricey. You could also build a more robust circuit with a potentiometer to control speed but that will be even more advanced. Either way, use a heatsink for the bridge rectifier and you might want to put a fan to pull the air out and a filter to keep wood shavings from getting in. 

 

Also in capacitors the voltage and temperature ratings can increase cost but it is worth it. Try to buy Nichicon caps and get 85C rated. Make sure the working voltage is less than half of the cap's voltage rating. So for a cap getting 230VDC you'll want a 500V cap. The rating is the max voltage the cap can take. Be careful to put it in the correct way too, if you put the + on the - the cap will blow up and it doesn't smell good. Don't ask me how I know.

[typo]

Thankyou dude, am reading about no extending my knowledge .

Will post here shortly with my findings see what you think  ac to dc i knows a bridge rectifier ive got one on the old board and found one for a quid online i have bookmarked on the pc, will link up soon as am home, also will post a pic of my controller and condition see if its useable or not 

 

I thank you too, your helping me enough to allow me to explore and learn, so il research and design, and hope you can advise me if im going the right way , all risks i accept myself as me ive learnt hard n fast on alot of things i cant stop trying new and experimenting its good fun,

The fan side...small electrics thats not a problem i can do this easy, i know how to make a mean little fan / hoover

 

As for poofing... Does a body poof count let me tell you a funny story about how i discovered how to preform The Mexican Wave.....

 

So picture this.. Your forge has a cheap new hairdryer on for air taped to the feeding tube like it always was, the new dryer will work better as it has a cold feeed...stops it burning out ,

Now nno tape left so ya use te strong ass garden tape, heat and weather proof,

 

Out of nowherre it starts raining hard on a sunny day...so fas as i grab my hairbryer pull and twist as normal to remove it  from the tape.....

 

Did you know cheap hairdryers have no skrews...and onlu clip together with a plastic lip?

 

Any preassure pulls the back off now im sure u know whats coming..

The reason i learns to respect electric...

I stroked the beautiful coil unit inwide my dryer ,

My left arm to right arm...back in my chest and it expanded like it was going to pop never felt this before my whole boidy taunted the fence like a barbarian goinginto combat. The mexican wave.

 

The mrs shouts "the lights have gon out and i cant use the pc" 

 

"I know... I think i know how a bad fuse feels " 

3days my arms and chest hurt, growing pains started at my fingers then  elbows ..shoulder and i was tired 

 

..........................

 

This was scary , fun and has made me really want to research and learn electrics , understand it and how to keep safe . i use trips to keep my plugs safe in the shed now, trips allover coz that shit hurt strange lol

triac

 

 

although amp wise... am i right to think the pic of the treadmil confusing sticker, it says 8a... so id need to look at 8amp or 12amp triacs right?

 

Edit: 2 pics promised  on the bottom it appears asif the fuseR6 is shorting on the board?

otherwise this is my controllerboard that was in the treadmill,  450wv 470uf 105c capacitor so im guessing this would be a good reverse engineer kinda to know what will work, found this capacitor in nichon really cheap

capacitor 450wv 470uf 105c

rectifier 600V

 

[BMack37]

haha, that is one hell of a pixie discharge you must have taken!

 

I don't really know what you mean by the "fuse shorting to the board" the fuse is just going to be in-line with trace coming from the power input. When it blows the circuit goes open and stops the flow of electricity.

 

For the bridge rectifier you'll want to go higher voltage so the 600v will work but you also need to look at current and temp as well. You'll want higher Amp rating than 8. Though the 8A or their Watts rating is fudged, it doesn't calculate at 230V is Ohm's law and that's a law, no negotiating. There are several package types available, you can use digikey to search for a part number then search locally. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/discrete-semiconductor-products/diodes-bridge-rectifiers/1377580

 

You'll want at least 12A but don't go too high or else you're throwing away money.

 

In about an hour I'm gone for the weekend so I hope that's enough info to keep you occupied for the weekend

[peter_john]

Hi..as per my knowledge for a DC motor you'd need a rectifying circuit then you'd need a Capacitor and a bleeder resistor at min. The cap smooths out the voltage so it's a steady voltage. The bleeder resistor will discharge the cap when it's turned off or it will still be supplying power to the motor.

 

china pcba

[BMack37]

Seriously, what are these new spammers that seem to only copy my posts, dumb it down and post as if it were theirs? That's two, haven't seen one do it to someone else's posts.

[jtkendall]

I've just been reporting spammers as I see them, not much else you can do. It's either a person with too much time on their hands or it's a bot that does it automatically.