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Can someone tell me the difference.


builditguy

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@SetBuilder...no up until the 575 we used corded Dewalt circ saw blade right, before that skilsaw blade right, never knew any framer that used blade left or a worm drive. I know dozens of framing companies...nothing against blade left as I have the 577, only for the power....use what works for you. I just don’t get it,it’s the wrong set up for many guys cutting lumber,(2x?) but for plywood it’s fine. ..there are certain ways to cut a line for a rafter,stairs,engineered lumber,etc...

      let me give one example...for a novice...cutting a rafter (ridge cut) if he cuts with a blade left saw (blade is on the right side of the line)from the bottom of the line to the top of the ridge ,he will bind the blade cutting to the ridge,making a bad top(ridge) cut making the rafter shorter or longer, why ? The body (heavy weight) of the saw is hanging off the stock. If he cuts from the top to the bottom he has no line of sight,through the body with the body resting on the stock.

       But...with a blade right saw (much lighter). Starting at the top,(keeping the rafter the right length) the blade is on the left of the line with clear visibility ..cutting to the bottom line. Using a “drop in” method which means, raising the saw body up only cutting a 1/2” or so deep for the length of the blade,then dropping the saw down. This starts your cut about halfway perfect then just finish the cut...or from the bottom to the top,body of the saw is on the stock and use the same method.....many guys on a crew, most are not experienced,that’s just framing...so many techniques are used to help ensure quality work, this is one....I’m quite sure a pro framer can cut that line perfect with a worm drive.......I can go on...but that’s one reason...

CE2AE15F-EC4F-4B56-9FA2-51211DD52468.jpeg

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I don't think it is a regional thing. More personal preference, what a guy learned/grew up using, or whatever is available to use at the time. My work just about has them all. 7in blade left wormdrive corded, 7in blade right direct drive corded, 6in blade left direct drive cordless. The cordless is used the most. I worked for a guy for a summer when college was on summer break and all he used was worm drive.

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As a right handed person, and having used a right hand blade for a little over 20 years, I have no problem using the right blade.  I actually prefer it.  Not for the reasons Framer joe mentioned.  

When I look down at the blade, saws have a "cut out" so you can see the front of the blade.  I can see my line and I can see the front of the blade.  Works out just fine.

Also, with the blade on the right, it throws the saw dust toward the right.

 

With the left blade, I can easily see the blade and my line, but the sawdust gets directed toward me.

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On 12/24/2017 at 5:52 PM, Framer joe said:

@SetBuilder...no up until the 575 we used corded Dewalt circ saw blade right, before that skilsaw blade right, never knew any framer that used blade left or a worm drive. I know dozens of framing companies...nothing against blade left as I have the 577, only for the power....use what works for you. I just don’t get it,it’s the wrong set up for many guys cutting lumber,(2x?) but for plywood it’s fine. ..there are certain ways to cut a line for a rafter,stairs,engineered lumber,etc...

      let me give one example...for a novice...cutting a rafter (ridge cut) if he cuts with a blade left saw (blade is on the right side of the line)from the bottom of the line to the top of the ridge ,he will bind the blade cutting to the ridge,making a bad top(ridge) cut making the rafter shorter or longer, why ? The body (heavy weight) of the saw is hanging off the stock. If he cuts from the top to the bottom he has no line of sight,through the body with the body resting on the stock.

       But...with a blade right saw (much lighter). Starting at the top,(keeping the rafter the right length) the blade is on the left of the line with clear visibility ..cutting to the bottom line. Using a “drop in” method which means, raising the saw body up only cutting a 1/2” or so deep for the length of the blade,then dropping the saw down. This starts your cut about halfway perfect then just finish the cut...or from the bottom to the top,body of the saw is on the stock and use the same method.....many guys on a crew, most are not experienced,that’s just framing...so many techniques are used to help ensure quality work, this is one....I’m quite sure a pro framer can cut that line perfect with a worm drive.......I can go on...but that’s one reason...

CE2AE15F-EC4F-4B56-9FA2-51211DD52468.jpeg

You could make that cut with the opposite bladed saw keeping the majority of the shoe on the cut just by flipping the cut. take the diagram as you drew and make it a mirror image with the ridge point on the left and the bottom wide angle corner on the right.

 

Personally, I believe you should have both a blade left and a blade right saw available. The example I use is cutting the overhangs on roof on the end of a house. I would argue that you are safer pushing the saw up the roof toward the ridge than you are being on the ridge pushing down toward the gutter. If you are looking up at the roof you can cut the left side with a blade left and the right side with a blade right. go to the other side of the house and do it again. the second example is when cutting the ends of deck boards which are installed parallel to the side of the house. you can keep the big part of the shoe on the deck in both cases and cut toward the house, because trying to to a plunge cut on one end right next to the house just isn't the easy way to do it.

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@Grumpy MSG....this was basically to explain for “ new “ guys cutting stock....for a rafter cut..it is better to start at the top (ridge ) to keep the line ( length) of the rafter good.....most “new” guys cutting from the bottom to the top (ridge) go way off the line making the rafter either ...shorter or longer.......also all cuts are made on a set of horses...no one ever cuts at the ridge.or on staging .......generally I make All hip, valley,,Basterd hip, jack rafter cuts....but those are all done on horses also....it’s just math......no need to cut on the roof,ever......but I do appreciate your input...

         ...even an entire Hip Roof ( everything including common rafters, jack rafters,hip rafters) is cut on the ground on horses and a lull lifts it up as a package ..where the guys just assemble my “ kit”..quickly and efficiently...it’s pretty damn cool when other framing companies see a whole roof ( hip) or any roof cut on the ground , stacked ready to go..

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23 hours ago, Framer joe said:

@Grumpy MSG....this was basically to explain for “ new “ guys cutting stock....for a rafter cut..it is better to start at the top (ridge ) to keep the line ( length) of the rafter good.....most “new” guys cutting from the bottom to the top (ridge) go way off the line making the rafter either ...shorter or longer.......also all cuts are made on a set of horses...no one ever cuts at the ridge.or on staging .......generally I make All hip, valley,,Basterd hip, jack rafter cuts....but those are all done on horses also....it’s just math......no need to cut on the roof,ever......but I do appreciate your input...

         ...even an entire Hip Roof ( everything including common rafters, jack rafters,hip rafters) is cut on the ground on horses and a lull lifts it up as a package ..where the guys just assemble my “ kit”..quickly and efficiently...it’s pretty damn cool when other framing companies see a whole roof ( hip) or any roof cut on the ground , stacked ready to go..

I am with you, cut everything on the ground that you can. Awful hard for gravity to kick your ass from the ground versus in the air. What I was trying to say was, you can adapt your cutting technique to the saw you are using and maintain the large part of the shoe on the work piece. If you have your rafter sitting on a sawhorse and you are standing looking down the 2X facing toward the eaves end and you were going to lay it out to cut it with a blade right saw, you would roll it 1/4 turn to the left and mark your rafter with the cut off corner to the right. If you were going to lay it out for a blade left saw you would roll it 1/4 to the right and mark it so your cutoff corner is to the left.

 

After re-looking at my post, I think you were thinking I was talking about the the ends of the rafters. When I was talking about overhangs, I was talking about sheet goods or if anybody was doings some old school plank or tongue and groove roofing. I have seen plenty of contractors not worry about having perfectly aligned ends and the last thing they did was snap a chalk line and cut the end ensuring the overhang was straight.

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Don’t overlook the 20v brushless 7 1/4 saw if you’re ok with a right blade design. I’ve been using Bosch’s 18v circular saws for awhile, but went with Dewalt for the tools in my new trailer. 

 

I’m more accurate with the smaller 6 1/2 left bladed trim saws, so I picked up Dewalt’s and it is slightly weaker than the Bosch but not a huge difference. 

 

I also got the 20v brushless 7 1/4 and it is a beast when using the 60v 6.0 ah battery. I was able to put it at full depth and rip into a PT 4x4 faster than I could accurately follow the line. I thought about returning it and getting the flexvolt saw, but it seems you trade a large amount of run time for slightly more power. Your 20v 6.0 ah battery becomes a 60v 2.0 ah battery. I’d rather have it last all day, especially since the 20v has all the power I need. 

 

In the test someone linked, the flexvolt passed their cutting test in 6 seconds, the 20v did it in 8 seconds. The Bosch’s I have took 20 seconds, and the 6 1/2 Dewalt would be slightly slower than that. The Porter Cable they tested looks identical to the Dewalt, and took 23 seconds, so that’s probably pretty close. 

 

 

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The FV Saw throws a lot of Saw dust in your face i noticed over the past few days.

 

Im a lefty and my partner a righty said he agrees.

 

You almost need googles, wearing glasses and still getting constant debris in your eyes.

 

We still use and love the Saw for the power it provides ,but I must say when cutting sheet goods I keep my head as far away from the Saw as possible.

 

Ive had really bad experiences with getting Saw dust in my eyes.

 

 

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@Grumpy MSG...oh overhangs. We’ve never cut an overhang ,no such thing for anyone I know. Rafters are cut to length with the overhang included whatever it calls for....you must witness some hacks out there ,lol..funny...we always straighten our gable trim and house trim ,starting with the soffit, lined, shimmed and nailed or SS screws...then the face..the rest is the .same process......and yes we will cut/shave any rafter “ sticking out” ...if the walls are straight and the rafters are cut good( hence my cutting technique for rookies) the trim Should go on faster........

              even our window trim is glued( white hot or 2p10) and pocket screwed together as 1 unit , stool,sides,top,pediment....then placed over the window for installation....

      I can appreciate your train of thought though.....

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