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When or when not to use impact wrench/gun

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I live in an area where corrosion is quite a bit problem on bolts etc on vehicles. 

I recently got an impact wrench and wondering what situations you would definitely NOT use it. 

I don't want to snap off bolts! 😣

For example would you ever use it with a bolt extractor? 

Any hints and tips hugely appreciated 

Thanks. 

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No on bolt extractors, no on stripped heads. Rusted, if you can get the socket on(even if it takes a hammer to get it on). No on masonry.

 

With bolt extractors, what you want is slow, steady pressure...Not fast with rotational impacts. You do NOT want to break an extractor, that is a LOT worse that dealing with the stripped bolt.

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Don't use it with any attachment that isn't impact rated. As far as fasteners go, an impact is generally a less damaging option than traditional methods. If an impact breaks the fastener before it comes loose than so would a hand tool. The only exception is when you get down into small seized fasteners, i.e. seized fasteners below a 3/8 socket. Even then it depends. The big thing with an impact wrench is to never use it on something that you aren't sure if the threads are aligned on. That's when you run into problems is when you think the threads are just a little tight and the bolt just needs to get started. An impact will destroy threads before you even know what's happening. Just start all fasteners to make sure you aren't cross threading and you will be fine.

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Never use an impact to install lug bolts or nuts on your car, unless specifically designed for the correct torque and application. I use one to remove them most times, but I always spin them back on without using an impact and them use a torque wrench to set them to spec. I have a T handle for half inch sockets that works well for this. Nothing worse than galling the threads on a stud or stretching a bolt by over tightening it. They tend to break at the worst possible moments when damaged like this.

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8 hours ago, JMG said:

Never use an impact to install lug bolts or nuts on your car, unless specifically designed for the correct torque and application. I use one to remove them most times, but I always spin them back on without using an impact and them use a torque wrench to set them to spec. I have a T handle for half inch sockets that works well for this. Nothing worse than galling the threads on a stud or stretching a bolt by over tightening it. They tend to break at the worst possible moments when damaged like this.

 

With my compact m18 Fuel, thread then hit with the impact one the fastest speed to two impacts, gets me to about 70 ft/lbs, then I use a torque wrench. It's about a half turn away.

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never use your finger to get a stuck nut out either .......not my finger

10341681_657287077698722_5671725828922433821_n.jpg

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3 hours ago, comp56 said:

never use your finger to get a stuck nut out either .......not my finger

10341681_657287077698722_5671725828922433821_n.jpg

Yeah this. Don't try and hold carriage or especially plow bolts in their broach with a hand. I got lucky and it only went halfway through my finger when a sharp plow bolt jumped. A mistake I only made once.

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On 1/17/2018 at 8:57 PM, BMack37 said:

 

With my compact m18 Fuel, thread then hit with the impact one the fastest speed to two impacts, gets me to about 70 ft/lbs, then I use a torque wrench. It's about a half turn away.

I use either my mid-torque, M18 3/8” compact, or 3/8” M12 on setting one and run them in until they impact. Then hit them with the torque wrench.

 

You say tow-may-to, I say tow-hah-to... LOL

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Yeah this. Don't try and hold carriage or especially plow bolts in their broach with a hand. I got lucky and it only went halfway through my finger when a sharp plow bolt jumped. A mistake I only made once.


How would this happen?

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