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wingless' Ridgid R4511 Granite Top Table Saw

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My recent purchase of a used Ryobi RTS10G 10" table saw left me disappointed with that tool. I really liked the features, portability, new condition and complete set of accessories, but I was disappointed w/ the bed not being flat, so I sold that tool and purchased this Ridgid saw as my replacement.

 

http://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14471-wingless-ryobi-rts10g-10-15a-table-saw/

 

The Ridgid R4511 granite top 10" table saw is a very nice tool. These were sold for a very short time at Home Depot in early 2009. Mine is a very nice example that I purchased used.

 

The 1-3/4" thick granite top is a terrific feature. The top has three sections, there is a center part, plus two side wings. The tool includes a pair of heavy-duty support rails embedded into both sides of the top to hold each side wing, that also include adjustment set screws to get the side wings flush and coplanar to the center panel. My experience was that setup was straightforward, taking a reasonable amount of time, now when I slide a sharp corner block across the seams there isn't any edge felt, plus a straight edge across the surfaces show them to be coplanar.

 

The granite is very smooth and slippery, making usage terrific.

 

Everything about this tool is heavy duty. The tool mass is well north of 400 lbs. The granite top is the obvious weight contributor. Looking "behind the curtains" reveals that the mechanism is made of large machined cast iron sections. That construction contributes to the mass, strength and stability of the tool.

 

The rip fence is great, with sturdy / large front + rear mounts, hook the rear tab under the rear angle iron, then lower the front onto the two-piece front box rail. The sliding miter gauge has a large / sturdy surface for pushing the part and stops at 90°, ±45°, with fine-tune adjustment screws for each.

 

The large 3,450 rpm, 1½hp TEFC induction motor may be wired for 120VAC / 13A or 240VAC / 6.7A. The 5/8" arbor blade is belt-driven from the motor. 

 

The saw has 3-1/8" at 90° cut depth and 2¼" at 45° cut depth capacities. The rip capacity is 30" to right of blade and 20" to left of blade.

 

One thing I found very surprising was the low / quiet noise from operating the saw. All my experience w/ portable direct-drive table saws were loud, this is quiet.

 

Setting up for ultimate accuracy is "easy".

  • When I got the saw, the sliding miter gauge slots were almost perfectly parallel to the blade. I loosened the top, slightly rotated, then tightened, now it's perfect.
  • The 90° and 45° blade angle stops were almost exactly set correctly. When I went to adjust one set screw, it wouldn't budge. I eventually removed the cylindrical steel threaded insert from the granite top to discover that there was an excessive amount of thread locker applied to the screw, causing it to bind. The insert was super glued back in-place, the thread locker cleaned and now all is good again.
  • The sliding miter gauge has side-to-side set screws that get a terrific fit in the bed slots. After a small amount of tweaking this now slides the entire length w/ no slop.

 

There is a voluntary CPSC recall on the early serial number saws because the motor shaft would fail when using a dado blade. Mine is a later serial number that isn't affected.

 

https://cdn2.ridgid.com/resources/media?countrycode=US&key=7cccef80-9c77-460f-86c2-3c972aac5d9e&languagecode=en&type=document

 

The tool has an integrated dust extraction plenum w/ a 4" suction port.

 

The tool has a Herc-U-Lift caster system for easy caster deployment for single-person tool movement, followed by easy caster retraction for returning to tool foot support.

 

My tool includes a nice custom-made zero-clearance throat plate blade insert, a custom-made low-profile riving knife and ½" thick Delrin panels added onto both sides of the rip fence. My tool also has a nice custom-made side shelf, that is handy to hold the rip fence. The rip fence doesn't fit into the OEM side support brackets because the ½" Delrin side panels were attached. My tool is missing the clear plastic blade guard, that discontinued part is not available to purchase.

 

 

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Granite Joints Prior to Adjustment

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I remember Matt Vanderlist getting a granite topped saw from another manufacturer Steel City and he loved it till he got his sawstop. It actually sounds like a really cool table

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The new-to-me tool had an issue where I was unable to fully tilt 45° the blade because the rack and pinion tilt mechanism gear set would skip a gear tooth, just prior to reaching that tilt.

 

The tool was cleaned and lubricated, but that didn't resolve the problem.

 

The solution was determined and implemented. The tool has an eccentric sleeve, P/N 089037005154, item 73 on Parts List Figure B. That sleeve has an exposed 14mm hex head, like a nut, shown in the image adjacent to the block.

 

The rotation of that sleeve brings the worm gear shaft closer or further to the pinion gear. (Note that I supported the heavy motor mass during this adjustment so the motor wouldn't / couldn't suddenly swing if the gears disengaged.) When I rotated the sleeve to bring the pinion gear closer to the rack gear this restored normal full-swing operation of the tilt mechanism.

 

 

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This image shows the eccentric, where the gear and collar are coaxial w/ the shaft, but the eccentric nut / sleeve has an offset internal shaft bore.

 

This shows how rotating the nut/eccentric will change the spacing between the pinion gear and the rack gear.

 

On mine, it took a breaker bar, a 14mm crowfoot wrench and massive force to break the 9-year stationary eccentric free. Once free, a regular combination wrench permitted normal rotation for the proper setting.

 

!!! Please remember to block the motor during this adjustment so it doesn't fall suddenly if the gears disengage !!!

 

 

 

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The PO modified the saw to seal the box gaps to improve dust collection.

 

One of the modifications was an adhesive foam strip weatherstrip, on the large door, between the saw stand box and the door.

 

That would have been fine if the PO also replaced the closure screws w/ a longer screw, to account for the additional thickness added by the foam.

 

Instead the screw was just pushed harder and screwed tighter, breaking the plastic.

 

Fortunately the adhesive foam strip retained the broken parts, permitting me to effect a good repair.

 

That plastic side door was repaired using  West System 105 Epoxy Resin, West System 206 Slow Hardener and Whitaker Oil Company 3/4 oz Fiberglass Mat. I also used Evercoat black color agent to tint the epoxy color, from clear to black.

 

https://www.westsystem.com/the-105-system/epoxy-resins-hardeners/

https://www.whitakeroil.com/

http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/base-part/100503/us/

 

This West System epoxy is great. I've used this for many projects. This gets mixed as five parts resin to one part hardener, either by mass or volume. I use my digital scale, tare the cup, add the resin, divide the mass by five, multiply by six, then drip in hardener until the scale shows the correct mass. Easy. The parts clean up great w/ acetone.

 

The part was masked off to limit the repair area. That included a small tape wad in the hole.

 

Layers of epoxy and layers of fiberglass were applied to the broken area, using a disposable paint brush to ensure the fiberglass was fully wetted and bubbles worked out. After about an hour, before the epoxy was fully hard, but while it had stopped running, the tape was removed and any leakage was scraped away.

 

The next day, after the epoxy hardened, the edge was sanded smooth and the hole drilled open.

 

The screws were replaced w/ longer screws, I used M5-0.8x15 black pan head screws. Those now fit fine.

 

The repair worked out great.

 

The screwed-closed door seals fine without the foam weatherstripping, added by the PO, that I removed. The gap is not air tight, but the air leakage is minimal.

 

 

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The saw includes two brackets on the lower left side of the cabinet for hanging the rip fence, the sliding miter gauge and the throat plate. The saw also includes a hook, for hanging the riving knife and blade wrenches.

 

The ½" Delrin side plates added to the rip fence sides increased the width of that part making the brackets ineffective to hang all the parts concurrently.

 

The PO included a shelf that rested / attached to those brackets, but I didn't like that solution.

 

My solution was instead to place a wood spacer between those brackets and the cabinet.

 

Now those brackets again work as intended.

 

 

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The Ridgid R4511 has a 4" dust collection port, as part of the bottom dust tray, on the bottom rear of the tool.

 

The PO had modified the tool to seal up many of the exterior openings, in an attempt to improve dust collection / containment.

 

One of those prior modifications was blocking the large opening on the top of the side door, adjacent to the bottom of the bed.

 

The dust collection is being examined by me. Part of that examination is looking at internal airflow and internal dust accumulation patterns.

 

One thing I noticed is very little internal accumulation near the arc shaped opening on the front panel, near the tilt pointer. Another is, greater internal dust accumulation at the corners, where lesser airflow exists.

 

The tool will be used w/o the large opening on top of the side door blocked, instead operated w/ that unobstructed to determine if dust collection is improved by the air cross flow pattern restored.

 

 

 

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On 2/8/2019 at 8:58 AM, ChrisK said:

I remember Matt Vanderlist getting a granite topped saw from another manufacturer Steel City and he loved it till he got his sawstop. It actually sounds like a really cool table

Yes, the Steel City Tool Works 35911 / 35926 and the Craftsman Professional 351.221160 table saws both have identical cast iron guts / granite top as my Ridgid R4511 table saw.

 

https://www.amazon.com/steel-city-tool-works-35926/dp/b00a5u1x2o

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/zrq8qyae2w-000247

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