burlguy Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 It took me 2 hours to setup my 744. The first thing anyone should do when setting the saw up is aligning the blade to the miter slot and running the blade over to 45 degrees and making sure the throat plate has proper clearance. Mine does not. I adjusted mine completely over and had to loosen all the screws on the front cover plate and plastic saw base, also the motor carriage bolts. Still I was not able to bring it over enough. My options where to take a file to the throat plate or buy a zero clearance which I did through Amazon. It seems like this is a common problem with the saw and I wanted a zero clearance plate anyway Make sure you get the good one there are a couple of cheap ones, check the reviews. Mine cost $20. I set mine with a 1/64th walk out and the back end of the fence to stop binding and the rack and pinion holds true to it. It seems that during construction of the motor carriage that the workers get sloppy with tool setup and the holes and rivets are punched around 3/32nd off. This is enough to throw it out of wack. Mine was bad enough when it arrived that the rack and pinion fence was setup a tooth off to compensate for it.... This of course made the fence over a 16th off on the far end, when compared to the miter slot. Now it is perfectly operational and cuts as true as my shop contractor saw (to the 64th) but weighs a quarter of it. The blades sometimes have this much run out in the teeth. If I need to be more accurate than this I will pull out the hand plane. I read about this prob in the amazon reviews and figured it was something I could work around and you can to.... No need to send it back just take a little time to set it up proper, unlike the guys rough assembling it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Yellow Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 I may need to do this with my 744 as well. I adjusted the fence but there is little room for adjustment and it's still not perfectly aligned to the blade. So you say you aligned the blade to the miter slot and then, if necessary, adjust the fence to the blade? Also, can you easily adjust the bevel to 45°? Mine seems to hit something on the inside of the base just before the 45 point. This is caused by the cover that is around the blade underneath the table. When I have time I'll go and set it up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burlguy Posted August 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 I may need to do this with my 744 as well. I adjusted the fence but there is little room for adjustment and it's still not perfectly aligned to the blade. So you say you aligned the blade to the miter slot and then, if necessary, adjust the fence to the blade? Also, can you easily adjust the bevel to 45°? Mine seems to hit something on the inside of the base just before the 45 point. This is caused by the cover that is around the blade underneath the table. When I have time I'll go and set it up properly. Yes, you must adjust the blade to the miter slot and move it as far over to the left(when facing it) as possible. You then can adjust the fence to the miter slot or blade. I have no problem with my bevel running it to 45°. Your saw may still be out farther than mine. The zero clearance throat plate does not allow for the riving knife to be used so no guard. I know to many people that have cut there fingers off that where experienced carpenters for decades. I am going to use my gaurd and cut a slot in the back of my plate to allow the guard. It however has mad the plate weaker than it should be and I am looking for a fix at this time. :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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