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  3. The local battery shop I used had a "Lester" load tester. They are pricey at $550, which is why I took my batteries there for testing.
  4. I'm working on a project in college and I am looking for the dimensions of the baseplate of the Milwaukee M18 router base plate. Basically I am creating a model that will replace the base plate so it can be used and attached with other accessories to reduce time. Would anyone be able to send me the dimensions of the base plate and the mounting hole positions?
  5. Masonry drill bits have a tip that has larger diameter than the drill bit shank, so in this case 3/16" would have a body diameter like 5/32". I would cut the drill bit from a closer point to the chuck with a hacksaw (the body of it is probably made of HCS, so it is not hard to cut with BiM hacksaw blade) then drill the remaining part with 1/8" or 9/64" HSS or HSS Co Metal drill bit, so you will have a very little amount of the shank inside the chuck and probably you will be able to remove it with pliers (long nose or locking). I hope my English was good enough to explain this properly
  6. I have a cordless Dewalt hammer drill, DCD796. A great drill, been using it for maybe 4-5 years. Today I was hammer drilling little 3/16” in brick for Tapcon screws. When I finished and went to remove the drill bit, the knurled barrel on the Jacob’s chuck just spun, without resistance and without loosening the jaws. It seems to me that something sheared inside the chuck, or perhaps a pawl or similar is stuck disengaged. (I don’t know what a chuck has internally.) Lots of Internet searching describes how to remove a chuck by loosening the internal bolt and chucking up an Allen wrench to whack with a hammer, but it that doesn’t apply here. I am unable to loosen the jaws to remove the drill bit. Also note that it is not, “stuck.” Two channel locks or hammer tapping is not going to help here. I’ve turned the chuck barrel by hand and under motor power every which way, but the knurled barrel just spins and spins without doing anything. I’ve only found one or two hits that match this problem, and neither had a solution. So…any ideas on getting this off? We have a full machine shop at our local makerspace, so I can totally wreck this thing if I can’t find a legit fix. Maybe machine off to each jaw in the vertical mill, or attempt to cut off the front of the hardened chuck in the band saw. Scratching with a knife, or he jaws appear to be less hard than the housing, which surprised me. I could be wrong about that. Any suggestions or crazy ideas?
  7. Altan


    I would go for Röhm chucks instead of Jacob's and for their metal chucks, Made in Germany! Jacob's probably made in China.
  8. Jim Kramer


    Is Milwaukee ever going to manufacture a drill chuck that isn’t completely useless? Does Jacobs hold every single patent to how to correctly design one of these things or what? Will there ever come a day when I can buy a Milwaukee drill and not have to replace the chuck with a Jacobs?
  9. Most snow blower manuals specifically state not to use them on roofs. But if you are keen on getting a snowblower Snow Joe ION15SB-LT iON is on the top, though I have not used it myself. You could check its specifications and see if it meets your needs.
  10. What about resistance roof heating?
  11. I have seen guys use this thing with rollers attached to a long pole with a slippery fabric connected. they push the roller up the roof then the snow slides down the fabric onto the ground. It might be an option. Also you could try a power broom. There are handheld options and options that look almost like a snowblower.
  12. @David London Battery powered equipment has come a long way. I currently use an Ego single stage snowblower. Runtime is good enough. I use it to make money in the winter. I don't even own a gas unit but I also have more Ego batteries than the average person. You won't likely run out of charge on your property unless you have a large amount of snow. In that case you would want a 2 or 3 stage snowblower. I want to say you could get 2 driveways of 2 car widths done on a single charge with a couple inches of snow.
  13. Last week
  14. Tested all four batteries this morning. Batteries 1, 2 & 4 all showed 12.9v or better while battery 3 was at 12.68v. Battery health was 100% on 1, 2 & 4 while 3 showed 70% battery health. Tester noted #3 was still good and didn’t require a charge. I had the mower plugged in since this past Thursday. I mowed the front yard after testing this morning which took about an hour and still had all the bars lit up, no drop. When mowing season is done I’ll find a true battery shop that I’ll have test #3.
  15. Also you do not need to buy any drill bit with SDS+ shank, You can buy any type of drill bit with 1/4" hex shank to use with impact drivers and buy this adapter for SDS+ from Snappy
  16. Armeg is a British brand making some SDS+ Auger drill bits, they are good with SDS+ products, Specially some TCT SDS+ chisels (British / Italian made) https://www.armeg.com/Wood-Auger-Drill-Bits-Hexagon-Shank
  17. Left hand side of the Saw when looking from the front is a small Grub screw just on the inside of the 45 degree bevel stop screw
  18. Absolutely, I think the shortage of Leoch LPC12s & The newer LDC12s is pandemic related. Also, I suspect the reason that HD has substituted the MM batteries as they are used in many other devices besides Ryobi's mowers. Looking forward to your test resilts.
  19. If Ryobi is still putting Leoch batteries in the riders I’ll bet you no other manufacturers will receive endorsements. Contractual thing.
  20. I agree regarding the weak or failing cell on one battery. I’m still convinced it’s battery #3 (as I’ve labeled it). I picked up a TOPDON BT100 battery tester which is supposed to tell me battery health plus % charge. I’m planning on pulling out the tray tomorrow and test #3 tomorrow to include another load test. Hopefully I’ll find out something soon
  21. I decided to take the generator apart and inspect the pull cord mechanism. It turns out there is a flat plastic 'plate' that holds the two teeth that extend to rotate the crankshaft when the cord is pulled, the plastic 'plate' cracked and the piece that fell off rubbed against the rotating piece on the crank and melted so the mechanism was unable to rotate at all. Cheap design. I'm surprised Ryobi cheaped on such a critical part.
  22. I am curious, is the adapter working fine still after some time? I did the same experiment in 2020. At the time there were several adapters available, one by the oslo tool company out in western Europe, and a few on ebay from other countries. I bought an adapter from someone operating in Russia. I think it was about $40 including shipping. The adapter came and the fitment was fine and i was able to cut with it. However, I think the metal used for the adapter was not hard enough or the Starlock simply overpowers it at higher speeds. My adapter uses an allen wrench to secure the blade to the adapter. well the allen wrench is harder then the adapter itself. After a few tightening and untightening, the hex shape recessed hole is slightly deformed. A close up. and the usage was fine at lower speeds like when you do sanding or removing caulk or light duty flush cutting a baseboard. But once you turn on high speed, trying to cut out some mortar witha diamond blade or notch a hard framing lumber with embedded nails, the OMT overpowers the adapter and the blade will spin loose. I was afraid this may happen as the Starlock "3D" interface is to transfer more power for the cutting and once you dial it up to 5 or 6 I feel excessive vibration and these blades come loose too often too easy. So I stopped using it. Would love to hear how the oslo company's adapter work after being used for a while especially whether it was able to withstand the higher power modes without busting loose or even deforming the adapter.
  23. @Mathew123, The link provided has straight shank and Pozidriv bits. The OP is looking for name brand SDS Plus shank wood bits. Was a different link intended for SDS Plus bits?
  24. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/B-49638 This is on the official site. It has 3/8" and 1/2", you can look if they have 3/4" too.. I think they would be included aswell. I think for Bosch you may have to buy different sets for different sizes. But you may be able to find more information on this on their website.I may be wrong. Also, Altan may be right in saying that they may break. But these are the ones that I have used quiet sometimes(the Makita ones) and have worked well for me.
  25. I had Dremel 4000 and it stopped working for the same reason, it needed to be lubricated. Wingless has already given you the links to that. Good Luck. Hope this works out for you.
  26. I have seen Confirmat screws only with Hex 3mm/4mm or Pozi #3 head only, are there any with Square or Phillips head?! Or even Torx?! Thanks
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