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  1. I have the carrier brackets in my van with 1” square tubing for about 4 years now. Never had any broken brackets or boxing.
    2 points
  2. Carrier brackets are much heavier duty than the shop brackets. I have lots of both. Carrier are made for mobile usage and also fold away. Shop brackets are for static shelving and do not fold away.
    2 points
  3. My sys light kal II and two 6.2 ah batteries arrived. The light is ok. I would have expected a much brighter light for the $200 price tag. The light it shines is a nice light though. I would like to see a 3rd generation that is brighter to make the value of the product much better.
    1 point
  4. You mentioned diy but also woodworking. If your going into woodworking you might want to look into multichuck drills like the m12 instalation driver, Bosch Flexiclick, Festools, etc. If you get into larger tools, that Flexvolt kit will be a great option because you can use the battery to power the more powerful tools. I would look into other brands in addition to the DeWALT kits you mentioned.
    1 point
  5. Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!
    1 point
  6. Welcome to the forum. When DeWALT created the Lithium Ion XR power tools, referred to as 20V MAX XR in the US, they were also still actively selling their (now discontinued) 18V XRP power tools. DeWALT concluded that US customers would be confused by the similar naming of 18V XR (Lithium Ion) and 18V XRP (Ni-Cd) power tools, so the US tools are named 20V MAX XR, where the RoW identical tools are 18V XR. Long answer to the UAE DeWALT guy being correct about tools for that country being branded as 18V XR. The DeWALT DCB115 4A charger is included w/ 20V/60V FLEXVOLT kits, so it is compatible. That DCB115 charger is compatible w/ 12V MAX, 20V MAX and 20V/60V MAX FLEXVOLT battery packs. There are other chargers available that will properly charge that DeWALT DCB609 20V/60V MAX FLEXVOLT 9Ah battery at a faster rate.
    1 point
  7. this is now solved. The problem was the battery charger.
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. Careful usage of air is probably fine for cleaning the tool. Sorry for my adding to the confusion. The vents / air are probably just for the motor and the drive train / grease are probably isolated from that airflow.
    1 point
  10. The Makita didn't come with a grease tube, but after checking the manual again, it does mention lubricating the bit shaft, but that's it. The "maintenance" section limits itself to saying that "any... maintenance or adjustment should be performed by Makita Authorized or Factory Service Centers." So I guess I'm technically limited only to greasing the bits and probably (?) blowing compressed air through the vents before putting it away (even if the manual doesn't say anything about that). The machine still works fine, but I wanted to know of ways of extending its life as much as possible. Thanks for all the suggestions.
    1 point
  11. Welcome to the forum. My Bosch RH540M SDS-Max Rotary Hammer included a small grease tube for application to the bit shaft when changing bits (according to the manual). That has been followed throughout usage and the tool operation has remained fine. The tool case is cleaned, including the vents, after each usage. The tool still looks and operates like new. Not sure on that Makita, but my speculation is the hammer function would also benefit from periodic lubrication.
    1 point
  12. They are. I use them both on shop racks.
    1 point
  13. Wow impressive setup. Roughly 60 boxes.
    1 point
  14. @Daniel Wheeler Even your cordless Festool stuff should work. All you would need is the North American chargers and you would be set. Also on all your 110v tools with the removable plug you should be able to buy a North American plug. You shouldn't need adapters then. Your 220v stuff will need other solutions that others have suggested above. Festool should be able to confirm everything you need.
    1 point
  15. As anyone who visits these forums (or other sites I post on) can attest to, there are two subjects I constantly bring up: the brands I currently own and my gateway drug that was the Porter Cable 18v system. I'm currently at the soon-to-be-sold house, about to finish gutting a camper, and have Milwaukee, DeWalt, and Ryobi tools with me. Sitting here waiting for me to thinking, though, "What brand (if any) could truly be crowned 'King of Cordless'?" I own or have owned nearly every major brand sold by Home Depot or Lowe's (exceptions be Makita, Skil, and now Flex), and there's no comparing even the best Ryobi has to offer against my FlexVolt, Fuel, Octane, or MultiVolt tools. With that said, though, Ryobi has what is probably the best "bang for the buck" in their One+ system. I recently took advantage of Ryobi Days, getting two starter kits for myself and selecting the jigsaw and inverter. I bought a third kit for a friend and he picked the 200cfm blower. That's three tools, six 4Ah batteries, and three chargers for $297+tax. For a quick price comparison, we can look at the M18 inverter with 5.0Ah battery, currently on display at $149. Specs are a little better than the green one, but it costs 50% more and comes with only one battery (and no charger), offering about 5/8ths of the runtime that the Ryobi starter kit with free inverter offers. The other tool I picked up, the jigsaw, made short work of some old wood used to feed a fire. I would easily rate it as being close enough in performance to my older DeWalt 20v Max saw, and it retails for about half of the yellow Brand's offerings. For the sake of brevity (too late?), I'll state my opinion that Ryobi deserves the title "King of Cordless" because it is an easily accessible major brand in most U.S. areas, offering the lowest entry price point for a major cordless platform. Unlike some competitors, Ryobi continues to release innovative tools (sometimes superior to even their TTI siblings' offerings) and flirts with professional-level tools, while maintaining their status as an everyman's tool brand. What are your thoughts? Is being a Home Depot exclusive a King-killer (no stores nearby, or you simply don't like shopping there)? For those outside of the U.S., what brand would you crown? Do the doubtlessly more capable and streamlined tools made by DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita, etc. depose Ryobi from the throne despite their increased cost making them less appealing to the masses? Should we elect a President or install a Dictator of Cordless instead? Am I just being silly as I bask in boredom, trying to force a title upon a tool brand that may not be truly deserving? Regardless, it's almost time to break out the new Ryobi inverter to power the DeWalt wireless phone charger).
    1 point
  16. For those interested in adding a cutting guide using a LED or laser, i bought a flexible LED USB light (it has the same outline as a toothbrush) and a USB female to male extension cord and a small USB battery pack (on eBay) and then glued the setup to the top of the blade housing under the blade guard and it works perfectly creating a shadow where the blade will run across the wood. Overall cost was less than $25. I had previously tried a micro laser but mounting it in a good position is really difficult (I had to use Blutac to mount it under the rail housing) and the battery connection is not effective.
    1 point
  17. Bought the new TradeStack combo earlier, along with some Pony clamps. I'll see how the box combo meshes with my VersaStack.
    1 point
  18. Gave the smack a try but no luck Our local dealer has someone who works on power tools so I think I'll just drop it with them.
    1 point
  19. Got the Ridgid Octane recip. 3100 strokes per minute and 1-1/8" stroke length, compared to 3200 SPM and 1-1/4" for the new Ridgid recip. I don't know how it compares to my Gen 1 Fuel, but I know it will smoke the 4X recip I picked up on clearance a few years ago. Price has dropped to $67.50 ($75 without add'l 10%). I also grabbed some Diablo recip blades, despite getting a couple of the Milwaukee promo blade sets last week. I'm gutting a camper to use for storage and broke out the Fuel Sawzall and the M12 Fuel Hackzall last week, but I left my big batteries at home. The M18 2.0Ah and M12 1.5Ah batteries required multiple charges as I cut paneling and cabinets for the burn barrel.
    1 point
  20. In addition to Eric's questions, what type of work light are you looking for? Area, spot, flood, handheld, tripod, head/hardhat mount, etc.? Sorry for the multitude of questions to help answer your seemingly simple question, but there are so many options. For a quick and simple answer, I'll say to look at Coast. They make a lot of different lights and are usually one of the less expensive reputable brands.
    1 point
  21. Note that to limit / prevent future failures of the integrated regulator, always operate the tool in full throttle in high load conditions. A partial throttle under high / heavy load makes lots of heat in that burned up switch regulator.
    1 point
  22. I did a quick search, and you can find the switch here as well: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/milwaukee-062420-ser-321b-18v-1234-cordless-hammer-drill-parts-c-131_5138_16243.html The price is actually a little higher than the eBay listing you found, but you can at least confirm that it fits both versions of the 0624 drill, which I'm pretty certain is what you have, based on the label as well as comparing your photos to some other listings. The "-20" on Milwaukee tool listings denotes a bare tool, with "-21" and "-22" used for 1 and 2 battery kits, respectively. The "-9" on yours is probably just part of an older Milwaukee numbering convention.
    1 point
  23. I am the same way. I have blades all over the place. Once I have time and can organize mine, I can probably open up a blade shop.
    1 point
  24. Thanks for the link. I like the look of that tbh! it's nice. 3/8 inch isnt bad altho id prefer a bigger cut potential. cant complain tho, a decent price too i think. I look forward to see what happens about them cutting hardened steel.
    1 point
  25. I lucked out and found a bunch of Diablo 9" pruning blades on clearance a few years ago. I've used a couple since then for small limbs and trees, albeit with my Gen 1 Fuel Sawzall. When I retire next year and finally sort/organize my expendables (blades, bits, etc.), hardware, and tools, I'll probably find little need to purchase anything else.
    1 point
  26. My '06 Sierra had OEM Bilsteins on it, IIRC, but I replaced those with Rancho 5000s around 100k miles. Now, with over 305k, my truck gets new parts when they're needed (instead of upgrades or preventive maintenance replacement), and given the number of original parts on my truck I wonder if the Bilsteins might have still been semi-serviceable.
    1 point
  27. Anyone having premature problems with variable speed triggers on their Milwaukee cordless tools? My bosses was unfortunately dropped in a puddle, his local supplier wanted to charge a fortune to fix the problem, it's on a 3/4 impact gun, a new one is only $20 more. I take good care of my own tools and am starting to have the same issue. The unit starts to jitter and randomly change its speed then eventually stops working all together. He paid the extra $20 for a new one and it's already showing signs of trouble after around 3 months. I tore the first one apart and bypassed the variable resistor as I could not figure out how to fix where the wipers had worn through it, there is only full speed now though. My question is, is this due to various kinds of misuse or are there others of you who take good care of their tools finding this ussue also?
    1 point
  28. So for this...I had the same issue with my 2407. Dropped and no worky. Lights come on but no one home. Took apart and the jumped the battery directly to the back of the motor...still nothing. So I figured I had blown the motor. I pulled it off (just a quick turn and it separated) and figured I would look up how much a new motor was...and as you do...I just turned over the motor from the gear side...kinda like a fidget thing...then for some reason tried the power to the rear contacts again from the battery...and the motor spun! I put it all back together and it works!
    1 point
  29. AvE (a popular Canadian YouTuber who specialized in tool teardowns) pointed out the differences when he tore down a Japanese-made Makita drill. It's been a few months, but the gist of the video is that Makita is still making high quality tools for the Japanese market while cutting corners for the Chinese-produced tools sold in other markets. I can't/won't say that a Chinese-produced tool is complete garbage (I own nearly every major brand besides Makita), but I will say that they are designed for, and produced with, the most cost-efficient parts to balance quality versus price-point.
    1 point
  30. The frequency will just have to do with whatever each country chooses to do. If they’re close you’re probably okay, although efficiency could be a bit lower which could lead to the tool running warmer. It could even go the opposite way and be more efficient. Kinda depends on how Festool designs their power supplies for different world markets, they may not even do anything different between these two markets in question. You will frequently see on the power supplies that they will list 50 to 60 Hz as being okay. It’s pretty common for a lot of electrical products to function just fine at either frequency.
    1 point
  31. Welcome to the forum. The '94 Grand Cherokee I special ordered 27 years ago w/ the Up County Suspension Group included special Bilstein shocks that are still going strong. They have recently been freshened w/ sanding and painting.
    1 point
  32. You definitely should be able to, I would just verify the standards will be the same for which prongs are what and also what frequency they are running (50Hz vs 60Hz). Also wouldn’t hurt to see if you can verify all this with Festool.
    1 point
  33. The DeWALT power station doesn't count?
    1 point
  34. Hello everyone , this is jus part of my standard Welding day in the life. Check my other Welding or CNC video .. Thanks for Watching.
    1 point
  35. Thanks for the link. It is surprising to me there is zero mention of safety in that Popular Mechanics article. The process you followed has sooo many more safety steps. Thanks again.
    1 point
  36. A while back one of my DeWalt 20v Max 2Ah batteries decided to give up the ghost. It was always a "special" pack, as the battery charge indicator didn't work and there was some clear condensation on the indicator bars, though it gave me about three good years of service. Over the weekend, I finally got around to jumpstarting the pack, resulting in failure and a situation that almost got too hot to handle... I started by using a car battery and short 4-5 second jolts. After about ten repetitions I took it inside and the charger didn't read it. So, after consulting a couple of how-to pages, I used a 5Ah battery and connected the two for about five minutes. The 5Ah dropped a bar after a few minutes, but immediately showed a full charge when I disconnected them. Meanwhile, the 2Ah battery was putting out just a slight bit of heat at the terminals after the five minutes elapsed. The charger still wouldn't read it so I let it sit, but the battery steadily heated up for the next half-hour or so. Needless to say, I placed it a safe distance away and left it alone for a few hours. I'll try to get some pics this week, but the pack eventually cooled off with no obvious deformation. However, the plastic housing appears to have some heat damage, with surface cracks and an area that is either a bit of dirt or melted plastic. Unfortunately, I didn't have anything to disassemble the pack the following day, so I'll do that this week as well. Something is obviously very wrong with my battery. It could be a short or some other issue, but let this serve as notice that jumpstarting batteries not only isn't guaranteed to work, but can be potentially dangerous. Years ago, I witnessed a car battery blow up next to me (fortunately, the hood was down), and I don't want anything to do with a lithium cell rupturing, burning, or exploding.
    1 point
  37. I just found a place called Total Battery. Since I live in Gatineau, Quebec, I spoke with the Ottawa store. They are getting some 80ah batteries in about a week, and 100ah batteries by the end of June, he said. Price was the best I have seen so far for these: $266.76 for the 100ah and $233.51 for the 80ah ones.
    1 point
  38. Agree 100% but I think Dewalt is just sleeping at the wheel. Doesn't seem like they are pushing or growing their line.
    1 point
  39. Welcome to the forum. It looks like the hinge part number 1609B00331 is stuck, shown in parts manual. Disassemble, clean and lightly lubricate? Is there a stuck spring loaded detent pin?
    1 point
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