Flexon

Oh, don’t worry ToolJoe, you already helped a lot. I can’t believe it is so much better then before. Thanks.

You made me think ToolJoe, that is a lot of free play just because of the teeth. Guess your right. Don’t know what to do then. And sorry for my unorganized postings, I am still learning.

That is the picture of the piece fixed with metal. A thin sheath of steel from a tuna can. I left a scrap of the sheath just beside it. The other picture http://imgur.com/sK3JVMU is the piece before the sheath was added.

http://imgur.com/77e3uFV

I tried putting the picture, but it said it was too big, I’ll try again later.

In the first picture, is the piece that I remove from the drill, in witch I left one pin, just to show (there were 5 pins). In the second picture is the piece attached with a metal, I used the sheath from a tuna fish can! Believe me, there is no play in that place.

Very interesting video, that drill looks like mine. Oh, I saw the gap in the picture ToolJoe, but seams that your model is quite different from mine in there. And, after I put the metal piece, there is no movement between the two pieces, no gap. I did some playing with the gears and seams to me that, what is causing the freeplay is the space between the teeth in the gears and that is amplified by the arrangement of the planetary gears. I’ll try to put the pictures. You will see, there is no gap between them. Unfortunately, if I am right, that would mean the freeplay cannot be fixed.

Hello ToolJoe, believe it or not I just did what you told. There where 5 pins in my drill. The hardest part was actually removing the chuck. I’ve removed the pins and put in metal. (I took some pictures, don?t know how to put here yet). The brake is not working anymore, it rotates when I force it, just as you said, and it is much, much better for mixing. Impressive, you know I even went to the authorize technicians in here, and they (two of them) told me the brakes were simply because it had too many gears so it would make it hard to pull when off power, consequentially it would all be a matter trigger’s program. But there is still that little “recessâ€, the mandrill rotating a little, back and forth when it is off power. I don?t wanna sound ungrateful since it is many times better than before, but, can I tighten that movement to the gears also? And thanks a lot ToolJoe, you already helped me so much.

Golden Valley Const, thanks also for the reply. Although the way I use it, its not a matter of practice, since I?m not holding the tool. It is fixed in a somewhat table, and the trigger is pressed still by an arrangement of fasteners. The problem with the movement of the chuck is that it is not as stable as I need it to be when mixing materials of too different densities. And very, very good information ToolJoe, i?m thinking about trying that. I guess those metal pins would be the very first connection between the chuck and the gears, because the movement is the same in any of the three speeds. If the movement were different depending on the speed, it would meant that it came after one of the gears reductions, which it would make it a lot more complicated to understand, and that also means I would have to dismantle more of the tool. And I guess if I can understand that piece, I could make the metal to fit it. Or at least draw and ask a technician to do that. Before I start, can you tell me if they are movable or fixed pins? Or give me a little more tips on dismantling the drill? Maybe I would have to make the whole new axe for the chuck just to increase the base. In this case, I wouldn’t have the tools or the technical help I needed.

Yes, your right Kjones, and thanks for the reply. I could use a corded one, unfortunately they generally run at higher speeds. I am actually using a corded DW245 (low speed 0-600rpm triple reduction drill) but the DC984 (14,4v cordless hammerdrill) would be better because of the relation between speed/torque and the actual “type†of movement. The movement is something very subtle in practice, and I don’t know if I can precisely explain that. About the modification I would like to do… there is a mechanical “recess†that is, the mandrill have a small free movement without traction. You can see that when it is off power. The mandrill rotates a little back and forward (don’t know how to explain either). It seams to me that, if I could fix it to the traction, giving it no “recessâ€, the mandrill always tied to the gears, my problem would be solved. The recess is what, as seems to me, gives the necessary rotational impact to mechanically activate the electric brake in the trigger, when the drill suddenly stops. I believe I don’t have to actually disable the feature, but just make it less efficient.

Hello, does anybody know if there’s a way of disabling the electric brake from a cordless drill? I have a DeWalt 14,4v cordless hammerdrill - DC984 – and it would be really helpful for me if I could just remove the electric brake function. I’m a biologist and have to use it to do some mixtures and the electric brake makes the rotation flow unevenly. I know I could just buy a cheaper drill that doesn’t have that function, but the overall performance on the DeWalt makes a lot of difference, and buying the specialized equipment for that would be too expensive. Can anybody help?