jenskolson

I'm and big fan of the wood slicer blades or the carbide tipped blades from laguna. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

Do we know if bosch plans on putting there technology on a full size saw? Or are the sticking to contractors saws?

yeah Im stoked.

I found a Surefire E2D on the beach yesterday.... Best trip to the beach ever!! Someone else had the worst trip to the beach though.

They are more common then you think. Pretty much every school shop in the country, and pro woodworkers use them. They haven't broken into the contractors market much at all because price and precision it too high. You just don't need that level of precision on the job site. Bosch will do much better in that space but for furniture building and woodworking Sawstop and Powermatic are the two kings. And out of the box I like a more than powermatic, due to the dust collection, sliding table, and the safety. I have the Sawstop professional it is awesome, I just want the sliding table accessory for it. ( ) Sawstop is similar to Festool in that they make really nice but expensive. Some people will pay the extra because they want the creature comforts. Or because they are OCD and love woodworking but hate dust, like me.

I would love it if Milwaukee got on the battery air nailer band wagon. I have all Milwaukee tools at work except the ryobi air strike to putting in moldings. Also a m18 chopsaw would also be awesome. Those to together would make it super easy to do trim repair. Attach up the m18 vacuum to have your self a portable dustless trim station.

+1 for the JC-10

Here is a question for you what tool sets of your guys come with foam shadow cutouts. I know to handle speed bars do but does anything else?

It is $60 for the new cartridge and another $100-$200 to replace the blade you just destroyed. I have a sawstop pro and after replacing a couple Forrest WoodWorker II blades you become very aware of any and all metal in your wood and you stop cutting lumber that is wet at all.

Do you guys have a recommended ratcheting crimper that is cheaper than knipex. I don't have to have certified crimps. I just do random maintenance at home and at a 100unit senior housing facility.

So I lost my pair of Klien crimpers (http://tinyurl.com/ozuca74) this week. And I have been debating wether it is worth spending the extra money to get something like the Knipex preciforce(http://tinyurl.com/nvbwbp4)? Does anyone have experience using them or similar ratcheting crimpers? I only really ever use insulated and heat shrink connectors, so my thought was to get the Knipe heat shrink Preciforce. Is there a down side to using the heatsrink dies on regular insulated connectors? I'm fine with spending the $170 if it will do heat shrink flawlessly and do insulated well, but I don't really want to spend $300 and have to carry another crimper.

Sorry for the long response time Ive been out of town and swamped at work. Needle nose pliers are gear wrench and they work good in cramped spaces but the double action seam to decrease how tight you can squeeze. As for the HF pneumatic die grinder it works fine and you really can't beat or expect much from the price of $10.

It was I like $900 for table and fence, then like $250 for the router motor. Expensive I know but I will never really have to upgrade again.

When comes to woodworking bits there are a couple options, and a couple requirements. First requirement is that they are brad point bits. Second requirment is buy quality, and the big box stores don't have any. First option is a really good budget friendly set. They are very nice, and carbide tipped so they will stay sharp longer. The downside is there are only 7 sizes, and you can't buy them individually. But for $25 they are a great value. http://tinyurl.com/lz5n9ge Second option is a HSS set from Lee Valley. It has every size you would want, but is $190 for 28 different sizes. http://tinyurl.com/nsealse And the final option I got for you is the Lee Valley Carbide brad point bits. You can order the 7 different sizes individually or in box set for $140. and they are guaranteed to be within 0.001" of the stated diameter. http://tinyurl.com/oyhy3zahttp://tinyurl.com/oyhy3za I personally have the $25 carbide set and they are great and I have not found myself needing many other sizes.

I bet!

I would like this for cutting hydronic PVC or Copper in place. The shaking of the pipe does a ton of damage to a hydronic systems.

I think about 50% of eBay tool post are people buying tools from big box store and post them on eBay for double the price. I also would love the Makita deal if the tools was an impact, and was red, and said Milwaukee Fuel on the side.

I use the router all the time. Next to the Table Saw I think it is the most versatile tool in the shop. Most recently we used it in doing all the speciatly profiles on a windowed french door. ButI use it for all sorts of profiles, and mortises. You can use it to joint boards. But the number one thing that a router table is used for in most shops is flush trimming to a pattern. We don't do as many patterns since we got the full sized CNC. Floor standing ones are really nice but if you don't have the space you can still get a ton of functionality out of a portable table and a plunge router.

I love handmade tool storage, but the peg board would annoy me especially if you do anything where sawdust is flying. I have very rarely seen peg board used where my OCD does not cringe. If I mad a closing cabinet I want it pretty air tight so dust and other thing don't get in to get the tools dirty or rusty.

Got it. Unfortunately I got nothing for spraying paint, I got all sorts of finish spraying info just not paint.

Yup never bored, and always tired. Got called middle of last night to fix a broke door handle/lock. Why is it that doors never break at 10am?

For spraying paint or finishes? What is "cheap" it dollars?

Some how I missed post in this thread. I'm 24 and a Environmental Services Director (Maintenance Director) at a senior housing facility. Day to day I do all sorts of randomness for painting, to HVAC and from repairing the skid steer to Housekeeping. I do everything. In the evenings me and my dad run a custom wood furniture shop, where we do all kinds of fine woodworking. I'm also a certified high school teacher(robotics, Computers Programing, Fabrication).

The toss up for me is do I get the roller vt25big which has more air flow capacity (+1.2CFM) or the California air which is quiet.

Hey guy I am in the market for a new air compressor. I don't really want big stationary compressor because I don't have 220v in the shop this will be going in. It is my work shop and don't want to personally finance fixed tools in the work shop. I am currently looking at the California Air Tools CAT-10020 (http://tinyurl.com/kfvg2rr) Does anyone have experience with California air compressors? I am liking it because it is sporting the same quiet pump style that is on the Rolair JC-10 that I have. It is going to be used as a general compressor, a little impacting, blowing out parts, die grinding, cut off sawing, nailing. But not two at the same time and not big projects. Any other compressor recommendations?