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Posts posted by khariV
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This week, it finally stopped raining long enough for me to finish staining the 2x12s for the fascia boards for the deck. I took the day off of work yesterday to get stuff done around the house, and actually managed to finish a project!
So, in all of it's glory here's my little deck.
Because I'm a nub, I learn something new with every project. Here's the haul from this one.
1. Don't blow away sawdust and dirt right after touching up stain.
2. "No drilling required" doesn't mean squat when you're 1" away from the edge of a board (I really should have known this already)
3. Just because a deck is square and level at the top doesn't mean that the sides are vertically square at the bottom (the front 2x12 is actually cut as a trapezoid - it's 1/2" wider at the bottom)
4. I really hate oil based paint.
You can't really tell by the pics, but I went with the trim / rout option for the problem I mentioned above.
Thanks to the whole crew for your insight and suggestions.
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Decent price on some 1/2" impact sockets for Prime Day
TEKTON 4880 1/2-Inch Drive Deep Impact Socket Set, 3/8-Inch - 1-1/4-Inch, Inch, Cr-V, 6-Point, 14 Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPR34S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Deals like these are when you need to go big. How about $440 off an M18 magnetic drill press? $80 off the nailers isn't the worst deal I've ever seen too, if you're in the market for one.
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The 2712 is a beast. You'll love it. For fun and just to make a mess, I took it out and drilled some 1/2" holes in some giant rocks and chunks of concrete. It was most impressive.
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Damned good deal. I really want this, but I just bought a Ryobi 1/2" impact, and 300 ft. lbs is really about as much as I'll ever need for driving lags.
I can also honestly say that I'll never need to take off a stuck lug nut from a tractor or 18 wheeler Metal things aren't my kink. Now the latest Woodpecker OTT... there's my weakness.
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Along the same lines
Milwaukee 7 PC Magnetic HollowCore Metric Nut Driver Set 48-22-2517
$19.88 with free shipping
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I think I may not have done the best job describing my problem.
The deck that is in the pictures is built with all 2x6s, including the rim joists. Those are the light brown in this pic. Here's what I was trying to do.
My intention was to "frame" the outside of the deck with dark stained 2x12s to give it a more finished look as well as to hide the concrete piers. These were to be flush with the top of the decking, attached to the rim joists and are more or less trim. The 2x12's aren't on there right now. The problem is the 2x12 can't sit flush against both the decking and the underlying rim joist 2x6.
Taking the 5/4" decking into consideration, here's what would happen with the 2x12.
So, fill the gap or shave down the decking so that the 2x12 is flush. That's the question.
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4 hours ago, wildroamer said:
Great deal, just ordered, thanks!
I looked at these screws, but I just don't know what I'd use them for. The chart says that you'd use 2" screws for joining 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" boards together. These are odd dimensions. The Blue-Coat means they're outdoor rated, but I don't know that I'd use pocket holes to join deck boards together and they're too small for 2x4s and too large for 1x?s.
What are you planning on using them for?
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10 hours ago, BMack37 said:
Knipex 26-26-200 bent needle nose insulated pliers $16.70, normal price is between $30-$50
Bah, missed out.
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With summer in full swing, the my kids have been bugging me to set up their little pool on the front deck. The existing deck is a bit rotted and in such bad shape that I really didn't want to put their pool on it. So I decided to build them a new little deck just for their pool. I spent most of Father's Day leveling the ground, staining the boards and putting it together.
Here are a few pictures of the in progress work...
When I got to the end, it turns out I didn't count / measure quite correctly, so I ended up having to attach two additional 2x6s on to the rim joist to make it wide enough for two final decking boards.
Finally, the top was done!
To finish it off and make it look nice, I was planning on attaching 2x12's to each side as a nice frame / border. That's where my latest problem showed up. The deck boards themselves, while "pretty straight" weren't actually 100% straight. Since this is the first time that I have built a deck, I really only paid attention to making sure that I clamped and coerced the boards together with the proper gap. (Two thumbs up btw, for the Camo Marksman hidden deck screw system - a truly excellent product. I'll have to do a mini review in a separate post with my thoughts on how it works.)
Anyway, by the time I got the last board into place, I realized that the edge of the last deck board was flush on one end and protruded 1/2" on the other end.
This end is flush and ready for the 2x12:
This end... not so much:
So, now I have to figure out what to do about it. As I figure, there are two options.
1. I could trim the edge of the board to make it flush. I'd have to worry about hitting the deck screws, so they'd have to come out (not really that easy with the Camo Marksman screws, but do-able). Then I'd have to get out the router with a round over bit to route the new edge of the board to give it the rounded profile to match. The last board would then be slightly out of square, but I suppose I could live with this if I really had to.
2. Option 2 would be to cut a 2x4 (several actually) to make a triangular shim to attach to the rim joist. The 2x12 would then attach to this. The downside to this would be the mitered corners on the 2x12 would become slightly more difficult, as they're obviously not a true 45 degrees anymore, but this isn't the end of the world. The 2x12 is going to get fastened into the rim joist with 6" lag screws, so I really doubt there will be any strength issues.
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about in case my description doesn't make sense.
Option 2 seems easier and would keep the top profile of the boards square. Option 1 is more complex obviously.
Is there a compelling reason to do one over the other? The next time I build a deck, I'll obviously pay more attention to adjusting the boards to keep the edge profile squared up, but this one is already built and I really don't want to take it apart to adjust for a few 16ths of an inch on each board. I'm open to any and all input.
thanks
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2 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:
How many batteries? Would have been worth that alone
Jimbo
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
It was with 2 3.0 AH batteries
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How many cheap lights can you run in the pouring rain without killing them? Something to think about.
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Ooh - I just saw that all of the new lights are up on the website.
$399 is brutal for the new tower light, but I guess the extra 150 gets you 1000 lumens, a plug and waterproofing. It's probably worth it and I'll likely pick one up, but... ouch...
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I suspect we'll not see a backpack blower. The M18 batteries just don't have the cojones to run a backpack with sufficient CFM/MPH to make it worthwhile.
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Both of the Milwaukee vacuums are super loud. I actually went with the Ryobi 18v hand vac with the cool charge-o-matic wall mount for small cleanups because it's so much quieter.
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I can't wait to get my hands on this one. Any ideas on when this one will see the light of day?
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So I was really and truly pissed off at the initial response to this thread, which is why I deleted the post and took a week to cool down so that I didn't come on here to feed the troll.
Long story short - Milwaukee rep driving and texting and doing around 95 MPH in traffic. I called Milwaukee to report it and got nowhere. I come on here and I'm right away told that I was at fault for witnessing it and road raging to take a picture of his license plate to report him.
The bottom line however is I refuse to be shamed and chased away. I did nothing wrong and I'm doing my part maybe to make the roads a little bit safer. If anyone can't deal with that, feel free to PM me and we can have it out in private. If anyone else knows a better way to report this to Milwaukee, please also let me know as this guy shouldn't get away with this extremely unsafe behavior.
thanks
kdv
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Maybe nothing at all will come of it. People driving commercial vehicles for a living - yes, I put this much effort into shaming. I once had a similar experience with a Philadelphia SEPTA bus driver. I did manage to get him on video texting and flipping me off. He no longer is employed by SEPTA.
As far as me being just as dangerous - I wasn't staring at the phone. I was watching the road, which is why I didn't chase after him and road rage brake check him.
Whatever, if everyone here think's I'm the jerk, I'll just delete this post and go away.
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Apparently I was wrong to post this. I have deleted it.
Bye.
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Even for $34.81??? haha
$37 vs $42 new. Not really a must buy bargain at that delta.
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1 hour ago, KnarlyCarl said:
Wow that's pretty cool maybe they will release the 9 ah before Milwaukee at this rate lol
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
That'd be really sad.
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Damn - that's a lot of green!
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http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-Piece-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B000HBAHMI/ref=sr_1_695?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463535619&sr=1-695&keywords=amazon+warehouse+outlet&refinements=p_6%3AA2L77EE7U53NWQ
GearWrench 8916 16 Piece Ratcheting Screwdriver Nut Driver Set - $36.77
Please someone buy this so i don't have to!
I'm really thinking about it, but I've got a really nice, made in the USA, excelite nutdriver/hexdriver set that I just don't use much already.
Amazon Deals Permathread
in Tool Deals
Posted
According to camelcamelcamel, it's only ever been down to $30 once, but has dipped down into the $35 range a couple of times last year. The Prime Day deal was $34.