khariV

See - quantity on hand: 0

Packaging has gotten out of control. I recently picked up a Milwaukee flipper knife from the HD deal of the day and the packaging was so ridiculously hard to open that I ended up gouging the handle on the knife just trying to get it out. I sanded it down smooth, but it still annoys me that it happened in the first place because the plastic was so thick and close to the knife that I just couldn't get it open.

Great work on the dovetails. Some day I'd like to aspire to hand cut some, but for now, I just picked up the RTJ400 and have been having fun doing them on my router table.

The DF500 connectors will work in 3/4" wood, but I'm not entirely sure about using them in plywood. I've used the 700's in hardwood, but not plywood, so I'm afraid I can't help you there. You might have to do some poking about on FOG or ask if there any green-ficionados around these parts that might have experience.

Damn - I know where I'm headed for lunch today

or 649... When was this 399?

The horizontal connectors attaching the green to the blue vertical and the blue cabinet wouldn’t require access on the right side. That would be the blind side with the little fins that pop out. The cross drilled hole to access and tighten screw in connector could face inwards on either of the green pieces so you would tighten them from the inside between the uprights. When you sit at the desk, especially if you’re “behind” that vertical panel in the center, you’d never see the plug holes. Here's a top down picture of what I"m referring to and a close up cut-away of the connector system.

If he's planning on mounting shelves to the vertical side piece, the braces are probably a good idea so that the vertical piece has something other than a butt joint to support the lateral loads of the shelves. If the desktop is made in 3 pieces, couldn't you just have the central cabinet have small wings to support the tops so that all of the weight wasn't solely relying on the connectors / dominos? @JronmanOther than that, I don't really see any problems with the diagram above as far as using the knock down connectors. Where are you thinking that you wouldn't be able to access the connectors to disassemble?

IDK about you, but I'd drill it out and use a bolt and a pair of pliers until the new handle gets to you. I so rarely get time in my shop that I hate getting sidelined because something breaks or doesn't fit. Come to think of it, it's probably not a good thing for my budget that Klingspors just moved their store less than 5 minutes from my house...

I don't know if I'd say the Skil would be "settling" really. From the reviews I've read, it's a very nice saw with plenty of power and a decent fence. It doesn't come with a wheeled cart, but if you're embedding it into an island, that's really a non-issue.

All I'm hoping for is for Milwaukee to announce new tools that actually are available in the relatively near future. Announcing things that may come out in April 2019, but then slip to July 2019 is incredibly annoying. Perhaps I'm spoiled by short development cycles in the tech industry, but can you imagine the blowback if Apple announced a spiffy new toy that you couldn't even order for more than a year?

If you're looking for a beast of a saw, the Dewalt 24000s is amazing. It's srsly expensive, so you'll either want to use it a lot or just have a lot of spare money laying about.

Sorry - I still don't see it - perhaps because the full size drawing doesn't have the vertical side pieces in place or maybe because I'm just being dense. However, it looks like the bracing is on the vertical piece opposite of the desktop, which comes out perpendicular to the and on the other side. I'm just not getting why the green pieces would need to be removed from the vertical. You make the vertical with the braces / shelf brackets as a single piece and the desktop joined to it with the knockdown fasteners. That way the vertical could be carried in and the desktop all joined up on-site.

Perhaps I'm not understanding the drawing, but why would you need to remove the green cleats from the back of the vertical panel of the desk? Those seem like minor little pieces, the remove of which won't really do anything at all for reducing the size of the movable pieces of the desk prior to assembly. That having been said, I think knock down connectors could be used to join the desktop to the vertical piece as well as to join the pieces of the desktop to each other. That would be a perfectly valid excuse to go out and buy a DF700, as far as I'm concerned.

The M12 is a nice, small jigsaw but if you're already on the Dewalt 20v, I'd take a serious look at that one. It is larger and a bit more expensive, but it has a light AND a blower. Sawdust build up / visibility seems to be the chief complaint people have against the M12.

I picked up the 24000S last year from CPO when they had a deal going and I was able to get it for $500 with a stand. Still a lot of money but I have to say that it's an amazing saw. I've cut through some really massive tiles and the table is super smooth. You get what you pay for. One thing to consider though is that it is REALLY heavy. I'm not sure that I'd want to haul it on and off a jobsite every couple of days.

So, ummm... I'm not sure what you do while you're camping, but I've never needed a transfer pump when I'm in a tent. No judgement if that's how you roll...

Perhaps I should call it - "How I hurt myself on a router table when there was no router mounted in the table." I was working on a small STEM project for my daughter's school tonight and was setting up my router table to route some box joints. I raised up the bit and apparently got it a bit too close to the inset bushing in the table. When I turned the router on, it whined a horrible high pitched sound and so I turned it off right away. I pulled the router as I was going to have to raise the bit in the collet so that the nut wouldn't rub. Well, when I returned to the table, I noticed that the bushing had rotated a bit and so I went to turn it back to the original setting. This was not a good idea. Apparently the metal bushing, from about three seconds of contact with the spinning collet nut had heated up to several hundred degrees. I had just grabbed it with two fingers and instantly regretted my decision. I know in the grand scheme of things, if you're going to get hurt in the shop, burned fingers are a small price to pay to learn a lesson, but holy crap it's a painful lesson to learn. So, to anyone else who may find themselves in a similar situation - never assume that just because there's no router in your router table that you it's safe to handle.

Interesting hack. Does any of the dust escape out the bottom of the bag past the clips?

For those on the RIdgid 18v platform, you can find some killer deals on their cordless routers. I've seen these on clearance at two different stores. It almost makes me want to add some orange batteries to the battery drawer.

For fun and enjoyment... Found out though that the Nilfisk models seem to be a bit cheaper than the tool company branded versions. Go figure.

I really hate how much they tack on to the price of kits over bare tools. There are a few things that come in kits only that I'd love to pick up (hello tower light carrying case), but there's no way I'm paying an extra $150 to get it.

Wow - my gf never buys me anything like that, though I suspect I'd get in trouble with my wife if she did

Bags are cheaper than filters so, while you probably CAN use one without the bag, you'll clog up your filter that much faster, which will cost you more in the long run. If you're worried about the cost of bags adding up, you can always build yourself a cyclonic extractor to attach to your DC. I love my dust deputy and haven't had to change out my DC bag once since I've bought it.

What sort of projects would you use the smaller connectors on? The big ones would be great on beds and other big furniture that you need to disassemble, but how often do you break smaller pieces?