Chris Shanks

is that the dwv 010 that it's sitting on? if so, I'd buy two off you let me know how to contact you

does anyone know if there is a tstack adapter for the heap vacs? in US or anywhere else?

I agree completely, If they had an adapter for tstack-to-tough system or vice versa, they would essentially double their product line availability & vastly broaden their customer base for the product(s)

I would love to see... 1) cordless micro pinner gun (23 gauge headless pins)...perhaps 50mm length fasteners like the Grex/Cadex guns do, something to be an alternative to Makita's own micro pinner announcement - why more companies DONT have these is crazy to me 2) 18 gauge cordless nail gun... why doesn't anyone come up with a 2 1/2" 18g brad nailer? or an angled 2 1/2" brad nailer 3) 4 AH 12v max battery, love the 2 ah 4) an adapter plate for tough system-to-tstack or vice versa 5) or a tstak radio (not needed if there is a tough system adapter)

I would also like to add a Tstack -to- tough system adapter and vice/versa I hate how they make you choose between the two... why cant we have both and a combination of them both

howabout... Tstack radio (I know they have a tough system one coming out) Tstack vacuum: cordless & corded a "cage" that sits around the cordless miter saw that allows it to be connected into the t-stack system cordless jig saw with a LED light & vacuum attachment hard plastic case for track saw tracks Tstack case that contains all vacuum attachments trim compressor that clips into t-stack

is that one for the tough system? or the Tstak boxes?

look on Ereplacement parts.com just type in the model and it will provide a full exploded view it's likely your bearings are problematic or one cracked grinding against the others

I personally own one (2 years now) and I owned the prior model with the rails over/under. My company owns 4 for the field installers & 8 are part of the indoor millwork shop supplement I have heard complaints about the unit moving too much left-to-right at full extension (or 'draw') and have compared it to all our other sliding miter saws (milwalkee, hitachi, festool kapex) and have noticed they all 'move' the same amount I have also heard this complaint about the 'gritty-ness' on the slide action, I have only noticed this when there is exceptional amount of sawdust/debris that accumulates on the saw itself the most common products we cut (ultra high end finish work only) are: pre-finished hardwoods, hardwoods, poplar, veneers, finish plywood as for my company, it is well known that the blade is 50% of the saw's performance, as it's the only thing making contact with your product (like tires to a car). considering our materials, a 100 tooth H-ATB (between 0 -to- 10 degree) thin kerf blade or a ATB-R will perform flawlessly. typically, tenryu brand is preferred, then Dewalt (good luck finding their AWESOME 100 tooth ATB-R blades), finally Frued... since my company would never consider buying a Forrest blade for their cost. some of the Pro's/Con's for why we chose and continue to use them: Pro's - light weight, though 56 lbs is heavy, it's one of the more lighter 12" sliders available considering it's size - minimal maintenance, we re-square/align the miter saws and table saws about once every 3-4 months, the Dewalt dws780 models are often the ones that do not require any adjustment or if they do, it's the fastest and easiest ones to do so - they are the most compact when fully collapsed, for transport turning them full right (60 degrees), with the head locked down and slide at it full forward... these take up the least amount of space or any of our other 12" models - largest cutting capacity: if you haven't checked yet, it has the largest cutting capacities of all the ones we use, extremely handy when needing quick cuts for making jigs then switching to large 6 1/2" crown then back again - then light, never thought I would like it, now I struggle when I cant have it con's: - it takes about 36" from wall to tip of the mitre locking handle to the rail pushed furthest back to fully operate properly & comfortably @ 90 degree cuts (with dust bag), so if you want to set it up in a hallway that's 42" wide... think again, or else I hope you're a wirey fellow - it's a belt drive motor, so if you are using a not-so-good brand blade or a dull one, you may have to get the motor to full speed before you make your cut(s) to achieve decent results - ...it's a 12" saw, a lot of deflection can occur if you force it... again, the blade makes all the difference FYI, I have never met any one who owns one or uses one and says, "this thing stinks" good luck

I re-sharpen almost 90% of my blades (for cutting wood/pvc light gauge metal), some of the difficult ones to re-sharpen are the very high end bi-metal blades (ie: imperial blades, storm series) all is done with a good quality triangle file and elbow grease, each blade takes about 60-90 seconds for me to sharpen... sometimes I will even put a "wave" in the blades with a pair of needle nose to have more clearance for the tang when cutting there are so many uses for various blades, the majority of my uses included Hard woods and different grades plywood dewalt (porter cable, Rockwell) makes good blades, blades that are compatible with Fein will work with dewalt, one just has to 'cut' them if you want them to fit the quick release attachment, even if you do cut them, they will still fit the previous make