JerryNY

Just a heads up. HD has the table saw available with a free additional 12Ah battery. I just got mine delivered and the battery is just shipped alongside in a separate box and comes in the standard retail single pack packaging. Nice deal considering how expensive those batteries are.

I scored a great deal on the large Packout box. I needed a water resistant tool box for when I take my car to the track this week up in Lime Rock with rain possibly in the forecast. I saw only one store had limited availability of the box and wanted to see it in person to judge if it would fit in the trunk. When I showed up it had a piece of copy paper on top saying $129 and looked like it might have been a return or just a store demo box so I wheeled it over to the pro desk and asked the guy if he could do better on the price because it looked like a return. He said sure and took me over to the register and gave me $50 off. I’m thrilled because I was just gonna spend nearly as much on some cheaper rigid or husky box but my store had tons of those with half of them with broken latches sitting on the shelves. I had to put a moving blanket down in the back seat to get it home but figured the top handle looked removable and when I got it home with two screws removed the handle slides right out and fits perfectly in the trunk!

Lookie what drove by my house at a good clip! I think it’s a plan to make me buy more tools. I just got the M12 inflator and small 1/2” impact ONE-KEY™ m18 and it’s not enough!!!

I think the big advantage with high voltage batteries running lower amperage is you can get away with cheaper smaller gauge wiring to carry the juice whereas lower voltage systems are more prone to needing heavier gauge wire to keep impedance, as well as heat, down. But yeah 60v vs 18v is academic when the underlying battery tech is using the same or similar 3.6v cells in different configurations. But 60v is three times + better than 18v! I think the real world advantage of Dewalts flexvolt is 60x2= easy and convenient adaption to mains power. For table and miter saws that once set up remain static for the actual work most of the time it is handy...

I used the 10% off st Patrick’s day coupon ACME had going and got the inflator and a one key 1/2” impact with free shipping so it was a win win.

I just got the inflator from ACME today. When I ordered last week I was surprised it said in-stock but after I placed the order the product page said preorder again. It shipped Friday and I got it today. I haven’t had time to really play with it but it seems smaller than I expected. The display is nice too.

I just picked up this bad boy...well err I mean girl... my Giulia is a very very bad girl...

Hey thats pretty cool. I could see that being handy in a zillion different ways. I have the right angle impact and love the thing. I bought it because I needed it for a tight spot installing the island in my kitchen and found myself using it more and more for drilling in tight spots and it is handy for assembling things that you normally use hand tools for.

Wow thanks for the detailed posts! It took me a while to get through them. It looks like the Mitshubishis are a good choice. I'm leaning towards getting the pro to install it. There doesn't seem to be anything crazy about installing them but I've never even used one before and it would take me tons of time up on ladders outside doing something I have no experience with which I'd lean towards avoiding I may change my mind when I see the estimate though...

Anyone have experience with getting these things installed? I had a HVAC guy take a look today and while I'm waiting for him to build an estimate I was wondering if anyone had experiences with them? I have a 100 y/o Victorian with gas furnace running hot water and no ductwork so the ductless systems seem like a no brainer and super efficient. The guy I spoke to uses Mitsubishi which I was leaning towards anyway but researching costs on these things online is a major PITA. My house is a two family and I'm only doing my first floor 2 BR apartment which is about 1200 ft^2. I'm looking at 4 possibly 5 rooms to have units (two bedrooms, the kitchen and a large converted porch living room - the dining room is centrally located and doesn't need one absolutely). Looking at the costs of the hardware it doesn't look crazy expensive ($4-6k) and the install looks straightforward (power to the box and run the lines drill holes and mount the units on the intererior walls). The tech said it's probabably a 2-3 day job all in. Any experiences would be appreciated; I hate having no frame of reference for having jobs done. I'm half tempted to do it myself but these things seem better to have pros do them for warranty and reliability issues imho.

These are definitely the type of tool that if you don't have a specific use for them might be a little meh but if you DO have a specific use are a lifesaver. I have a Milwaukee M12 right angle impact that I don't use all the time but when you have a cramped space that you can't even think about getting a regular pistol grip impact into it's a lifesaver and worth every penny. Still though I find myself using it more and more for jobs where all out power is meaningless...

I went with a Toto elongated. I does seem to have a deep well with a low amount of water in it but the swirling flush action is pretty robust so it seems to do a great job of clearing away debris. Overall I'm pretty happy how the bathroom came out. It's tough to make a tiny bahtroom look good and still be functional.

Yeah I like how you can make really sharp corners unlike pvc pan liner and you can keep putting on as many coats as you want. I also embedded fiber mesh on the wall floor junctions and all corners for stability and it seems super tough. It also helped with my linear drain that I used to be able to seal it to the floor perfectly. I have a tiny bathroom I'm remodeling and I decided to do a wet room to save the space of a curb as well as a wall hung hidden tank toilet and wall hung vanity, all stainless, so nothing is on the floor and nothing is water damageable and I could avoid using a glass shower door. Using pvc pan liner over the whole floor would have been problematic at best but the redgard allowed me to have an entire wet floor with little difficulty.

Thanks but too late! Overall I like the stuff. Pretty easy to work with but the one issue is if you use clear glass tile like I'm using on the back wall you gotta make sure you have complete coverage of the thinset or you can see the red through the finished product.

The organizers are on sale at HD for $19 again. I love these things...Part of my Spax collection being organized.

Wow those are great deals on great carts. Gorilla cart approves!!!

I figured I would go with a red matching blade...

Yeah it's a weird thing but if you look on Amazon for Diablo blades for example you can get a 5.5" 18t but 5-3/8" 16t, 24t and 36t blades. In my experience they are nearly identical but the 5-3/8" blades tend to leave a tiny uncut strip when cutting 2x4 lumber, with my old Ryobi mini circ, especially swollen wet pressure treated. It's no big deal but if given the choice I'd prob go 5-1/2" just for that little bit extra. nice review btw..

I appreciate the time you take to post your opinion here. Sorry to hear you don't like the Fuel 10". I was just at HD tonight and went to look at the DWS780 and the slides are nowhere near as smooth as the Fuel. I'm not sure I totally agree with your opinion that it feels cheap overall. I think some parts do, like the red plastic clearance insert feels very cheap and some of the plastic surrounding the sawdust extraction channel does too but to be fair the dozen or so miters on display at my local HD had said similar cheapness sprinkled throughout. Overall though everything else feels pretty smooth and quality. I feel they spent the money where they needed to. The metal castings for the arm articulation and most of the base plates seem a grade above any saw under $1k, I've never used a Kapex so I can't compare to that. I put a Freud Industial sliding miter blade on it and it makes very very nice cuts too. I made some blade observations over in the Accessories forum but I'll make my own Fuel 10" impression thread here when I get some time.

I came across one of these industrial Freud's designed for sliding miners with a -5° hook on Amazon and decided to give it a shot. The industrial models supposedly use better materials to higher specifications than the Diablo line: First impression was that it's MUCH heavier and thicker. I had to put the two blades on a scale to compare but it's only about 1.8 oz. heavier but for some reason it just FEELS way more heavy than that would indicate. I think it might have to do with the plate actually being a tiny bit thicker but while the OEM milwaukee feels like you could bend it easily with just your hands the Freud feels like it would give you much more trouble bending it. For some odd reason the Freud is maybe about 1/8th an inch smaller diameter, not huge but might be a metric ballpark thing. I was wondering if it actually is a thin kerf because it feels and looks much thicker than the Milwaukee blade but on further inspection it really isn't. The carbide teeth are almost flush on the Freud while the Milwaukee's teeth are much wider than the actual blade so it's prob a few hundredth thicker at most. not to mention the teeth are about 3-4x's more massive on the Freud and notice the difference in angles and bigger gullets for material removal: As to cutting: the Milwaukee blade does a pretty nice job but despite being heavier and a tiny bit thicker the Freud cuts easier and smoother through everything I tried. The kicker is I tried some cutting some dado's in the end of some prefinished birch and the gap the Milwaukee made was actually a bit wider than the Freud. Also the walls of the slot on the Freud were perfectly square while the Milwaukee left slots that a little off (maybe the thinner blade wobbles widening the cut a bit? - could be why some people complained the saw deflects a little at extreme miter angles too?) Notice too above how the finish at the edges of the Milwaukee blade cut are a bit chipped while the Freud leaves a perfect edge. Notice above how the Milwaukee Blade leaves a slightly scalloped edge in the groove on the bottom while the walls cut by the Freud on top is smooth and even. Above notice how on full cuts the Freud leaves a nearly glass smooth endgrain while the OEM blade is a little rougher, not bad at all but noticibly rougher. Some other general thoughts: The blade is quieter in my opinion than the OEM and cuts so smooth you can't nt even feel when it contacts the wood. It just sinks in and starts making dust but you don't actually feel it contact softer wood like pine, maybe because the -5 hook angle and being so sharp? The wood doesn't even seem to vibrate or give any force feedback with your off hand on the fence. All in all it seems like a nice blade for not all that much more than cheaper ones and it seems really well designed for a sliding miter. They have them on Amazon for $63.

Don't you have to worry about the blades rusting at all with water and detergent? The amount of money poured into R&D on laundry detergent is staggering so it shouldn't come as much of a surprise they are really effective at cleaning organic compounds though. I have to say that while there are blades that are no doubt better than your average Diablo/Freud, Forest for example, their red coating is second to none at keeping the blade relatively clean. The red teflon stuff they use is almost magical.

It's been a while since I visited this thread. It's an interesting project. Sorry to hear of the hardship olletsocmit. I hope things improve for you soon. One thing I was wondering that might be more cost effective over the long haul is to see about buying a nonfunctional tool from Europe and swapping the parts over. That way you'd also have a complete tool as a model in front of you and swap over part by part to see how things fit. You figure you could probably snag a dead tool somewhere for cheap.

I'm getting to the final stages of my bathroom remodel and was planning of using redgard instead of a pvc shower pan for a number of reasons but my old school tile guy looked at me like I was crazy when when I explained I wanted to use regard instead of a pvc pan. Anyone have experience with redgard?

I don't know about mixing concrete and mud with this thing. Most drills I've seen for that use end up looking like those gray painted tools manufactures use for competitive comparisons. It's too nice a drill for messing it up like that

Yeah good point. I'm most worried about chips and the edge just needs to be smooth so 60t is prob fine. This isn't for any exposed edges. The stock blade actually makes a nice smooth cut so I think a Freud 60t blade made for sliding miters prob should be great.