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Millerzconstruction

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Posts posted by Millerzconstruction

  1. Hey there, im new here and was hoping u might be able to hell me with sumthing. Its prob a stupid question but iv not experienced this before so hopefully sumone could explain.

    So I just bought the MILWAUKEE M12 PP2A-402C 12V BRUSHLESS COMBI Drill.

    Its a great drill and im loving it. I just have a question about the ratchet chuck. So on any other drill iv had, u hold the chuck an pull the trigger to open and close it, to release or insert a bit. But with this drill u have to turn the to the right to release and left till u hear the rarchet click amd tighten.

    So am just chexkin this is the only way to do this an i just gotta get used to doin it by hand as holding the chuck an pullin the trigger doesnt work on this drill is that correct.

    Sorry if this is a dumb question just hoping I dont have a faulty ome or sumthin.

    My dewalt is like that. I just got use to tighting with my hand. It easier on the Chuck too. A guy that work for me used the motor to Chuck his bits and the internal chuck messed up and had to send it off. It got to where you couldn't take the bit out.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  2. i avoid using philips screws so if you start off too fast yea it'll slip on you, only really had that issue when i first got it because i wasnt used to it, once you adjust though and pair it with robertson or torx the rpms are not an issue, they still aren't as high as the makita and pairing it with the higher torque drives the screws much better.

    As for you ipms, those are the impacts the hammer mechanism makes driving the screw into the material, as where the rpms are the speed of the motor, so your motor can be spinning with the full rpms but if you look closely you screw may only be spinning at 1/4 of that depending on the resistance and torque needed to drive that screw. Hopefully that makes sense...

    Me too. I always use the .25 stars or hex. Phillips screws are out now. They are like the straight head screw 15 years earlier.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  3. Isn't that right? The impacts per min is how fast it drives somthing that's making it hard to turn. Like a fastener in a material?along with the torque. Like a diesel engine ?

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  4. I really just like the 886. There really isn't enough speed difference to make a big fuss. And then you have to sortie about the bit jumping out of the fastener. Dent the material or I've seen people put the bits through there thumbs too. From slipping.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  5. right, which is why it has three speed settings, #2 is just like using the 886 but when you need that extra power you have it waiting for you, they redesigned the chuck as well giving it a little lip to it.

    Impacts per min is the speed that drives the fastner. The Makita has 3500 ipm rpm 2900 And 1460 inch pounds.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  6. They just released a newer 3 speed impact, the older xr (dcf 886) was single speed around 2800 rpms with 1500 lbs of torque, the newer one is a 3 speed, the high speed has 3250 rpms with 1825 lbs of torque so it drives long screws fairly easily.

    Jimbo

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Speed isn't always a good thing though.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  7. Is their anybody else out their that is as big of fan of dewalts 20v impact drivers as I am?

    Well I wanna know also if their is anybody out their that wishes Dewalt made a 20v combo kit of 2 impact drivers rather then a impact and a drill or a hammer drill?

    The reason I would be tickled to see dewalt make this is because I am a demo guy and I love to go up in the scissor lift with two impacts with different bits in them rather then carrying around my bit kit and changing them out and all that. Some times I drop the bits when I'm changing them and it is just way easier to have an impact ready for each task. And impacts are a lot shorter then a drill so they can get in a lot smaller places when your working on a ceiling or wherever might be a tight spot that a big drill can't fit into.

    Im sure theirs alot more reasons out their that people would prefer two impacts so If theirs anybody that agrees with me on this, let me know and tell me your reason why you'd like two impacts. I'd like to hear from any trade so we can convince dewalt to sell this.

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

    I love my dewalt 20v XR impact and drill/hammer drill. And all I have used in the past is Makita stuff. I think the Makita impact drills the bigger screws faster. But it's more likely to slip off the screw. So it's a toss up there. I'm just getting into the dewalt stuff. But you can't go wrong with dewalt any more. They have rose to the top with Makita. And I really like having two impacts. I also have the dewalt 12v impact and drill. So when I need two impacts I use the dewalt 12v and 20v. So yes it would be nice to have combo kits with two impacts. Or if they would let you mix and match any kind of sets you wanted. That would be very cool too.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  8. I like the strong magnets because you can stick larger drill bits and stuff on. Might be a bit too much for a couple 1" insert bits though.

    Festool has magnets where the battery is. I would go for it. If you have a older drill or a cheapo, maybe test it on it first with a strong magnet. Make sure you got the poles turned the right way. Lol

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  9. I have this one...

    Walnut Hollow Creative Versa Tool with Versa-Temp Temperature Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P1TRAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_HUYIwbRWXN6MT

    Jimbo

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    I would like to try it. I wonder if I could find the one I had as a kid? That would be pretty awesome. But it doesn't have temp controller. Do you have to change the heat on it any? Just for. Like different materials and making lighter and darker color I guess would be the main reason wouldn't it? Maybe it had some kind of temp control? I say it about would have to?

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  10. You ever consider wood burning your numbers after you cut them?

    Jimbo

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Or do you mean taking a torch to the wood to bring out the grain of the wood?

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

  11. You ever consider wood burning your numbers after you cut them?

    Jimbo

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I'm not sure about what you mean? Like instead of routing the numbers use a wood burning kit? I routed the numbers out before I cut them. That's why a couple of the 0's area little wider than the others. It would be hard to burn the numbers around a 1/4 0r 1/2 of a inch deep though. Wouldn't it? I had a wood burning kit when I was 9 or 10 I think.

    Sent from my LGAS995 using Tapatalk

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