eddie1976

Thanks. Appreciate you looking.

Thanks @Biggie. Let me know what your test shows Monday. Very curious. A couple of weeks ago I was helping a friend who has a Rigid unit. On setting one he said that one goes to 60 ft pounds. When he was putting on the lug nuts, it made them pretty tight and then he hit them with the manual torque wrench set at 80, and the nuts turned a mm or two and clicked the wrench. It was pretty convenient compared to my DCF899. On the second setting on the DCF899 Dewalt says 300 ft pounds. If it is anywhere near that I don't want to hammer on the lug nuts. Thanks again for the response and for checking.

Anyone have a DCF899 high torque impact? The owners manual says 100 ftlbs tightening on setting 1. I was changing tires today and when I was tightening the nuts with it, it would start to hammer and it seemed like it was done tightening. I put my torque wrench on the nuts and saw that they were barely tight...I was able to do almost a full turn before reaching the desired torque (85 ftlbs). It is out of warranty (bought in 2016) and barely used. I used it to rotate two sets of tires every year since then. Very light duty stuff. Not sure if it ever worked differently or if it was like this since day 1. I'd kick myself if it was like this from factory and I never sent it back for repair. I'm able to keep the socket from turning holding it by hand while depressing the trigger on setting 1. I assume this is not normal????? Anyone have any thoughts?

I have not read all the reply's so forgive me if this has already been discussed. I bought this last year and have used it about a dozen times. I have never been disappointed. And the price is really good...I have never seen it this low. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-gallon-oil-less-pancake-compressor-and/p-00916575000P?SID=IMxdCx-CoreTools-V2-activeusers&utm_medium=2706_92012_CoreTools

Anyone have this caulk gun by dewalt? I'm thinking about getting it to caulk some window trim that I put up. I can't get a nice bead with my manual guns. Probably my technique, but was hoping a gun that applied steady pressure would take care of that issue.

Well, in case you ever run into a situation during a remodeling job that requires you to attach your drill to another drill, you know which of the two drills to get. Clearly, this video demonstrates alot. Who needs to see how the drills function in the tasks for which they were built.

That picture look terrible. Obviously they don't take any pride in what they are putting out there. It is rather sad. I tend to hold tools in high regard. I'm in awe of some of the high end tools. Sadly, I have come to the conclusion that not everyone should have a $700 sliding compound miter saw or anything else that is meant for everyday use. I recently (somewhat reluctantly) bought a Kobalt sliding miter saw on Black Friday sale. I was really wanting the Dewalt or another high end brand. But, reality set in. I will use the saw twice a year, if that, do I really need a professional model. So, I rationalized getting a saw that isn't top notch, may have some fit and finish issues (haven't seen them yet, but wasn't looking too carefully) and may not have all the bells and whistles. My point is that not everyone needs the "best" and not everyone will look that carefully at tools and may not even care if the saw looks like the one pictured above. As long as it cuts a board and gets the job done, they are happy.

Thanks guys. I have the 90 and 45 set perfectly using a couple of videos on youtube. To my surprise, the saw was pretty close to square. Need to get the laser adjusted and I will be ready to do some trim work.

I just got a 12" Kobalt sliding miter saw and was setting it up. The manual says use a combination square to check the bevel angle and ensure 45 degrees is true. Seems easy enough with the combination square. It also says check 33.9 degrees to ensure that is true. How do you check this odd angle with the same square? I have the two squares below. Thanks

So what do you keep your tools in if you are getting rid of the boxes? I got a drill/driver set and love the fact it has the hard plastic case. I have the tools in it and it sits on a shelf in my garage.

Yes, thanks for the clarification.

Remington sells chainsaws?

As I have been reading and learning (more than I ever wanted to) about this subject it appears the issue is related to stability rather than total weight. I guess the slider coming forward or back off the stand might make it unstable and have it tilt forward or back, causing it to fall. I don't know how true that is, but many of the stands aren't recommended for 12" sliding saws. If you want one, you need to upgrade to a bigger one, for alot more money. The one I bought is $60, but the ones that are recommended for 12" sliders are about $150. I will try to use the one I have and see how it feels. If it doesn't feel steady or stable, I will take it back and cough up the extra money.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Not much to burn up....I already have the saw, just looking for the stand.

I just got a 12" Kobalt sliding miter saw and need a stand. Found a Ryobi for $60 at HD. Got it home, but found out that Ryobi doesn't recommend using it with anything bigger than 10" sliding miter. I don't want to spend alot of $ on a stand, any recommendations?

which dewalt are you referring to in the video? The compact or full size?

I will echo what others have said about going with higher power than you think you need right now. You never know when you will need it, and for the price difference, it is worth it. I would consider the DeWalt DCK299P2. I am very impressed with mine and there are lots of video reviews that you can check out. One I really liked is by Jimbo on here which shows off the drill part of the combo kit. Check it out. I can tell you from my experience the impact driver is equally impressive.

Can the slider be polished to make it less rough without taking metal off enough to cause a problem? For 200 my expectations aren't too high.

Anyone have a Kobolt 12" sliding compound miter saw? I just got one for $199 for black Friday deal. They usually go for $299. I will need to make sure the fence, blade, etc. are straight and square. I have read that some of them are not square from the factory. I was going to get the Dewalt, but at $600, I can't justify it for the few times I will use it.

My wish list is simple, table saw and miter saw.

If you want a really nice manual caulk gun, I would buy this one https://www.amazon.com/COX-41004-XT-Thrust-10-3-Ounce-Cartridge/dp/B000DZF3TA/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477698602&sr=sr-1&keywords=cox+caulk+gun It works really well. It has 18:1 mechanical force and made it easy to squeeze out the really thick caulk I was using. But I wouldn't use it again on windows where you see the bead. I will likely get a powered one eventually if I end up doing windows again.

Anyone have a battery operated caulk gun? I just replaced all my windows and really should have bought a dewalt caulk gun. The caulk I was using is a very high quality caulk which requires the high end caulk/adhesive guns. Manual caulking left the caulk looking terrible! Live and learn.

I paid $360 for the same kit delivered from a different online vendor. If I went with this one, I would pay $80 for shipping, bringing total cost to $325. They have good reviews...I'd be comfortable using them.

Anyone buy from these guys? https://www.mississaugahardware.com/product/dck299p2-20-v-max-xr-lithium-ion-brushless-premium-hammerdrill-impact-driver-combo-kit-50ah This kit is about $100 less than anywhere else I have seen it, and the price is in Canadian. With the exchange rate, it is a steal. Shipping is kinda expensive.