SetBuilder
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Posts posted by SetBuilder
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You will have a very hard time getting a clean line with a jig saw. I'd rough cut it with a jig saw, then make a template out of 1/4" MDF and make the final cut with a router trim / pattern bit. Then round over the sharp edges. You will probably have to swing a radius to make the template. I would try and double stick some MDF or other bendable material to the windscreen when cutting with a jig saw so the "bounce" of the saw doesn't crack it. Also tape off the base or put felt on it, so you don't scratch the windscreen
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On 9/2/2019 at 11:57 AM, Anderson 69 said:
I would suggest you to go and all about know chainsaw sharpener.
The video with a file on a drill is just horrible... a round chain saw file is not made to be "spun", its cuts on the push stroke. There is just so much wrong with that arcticle
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I stopped watching at about 1:45 into the video. you'll never get my money. For about 90% of the uses you showed I would just use my 1/4 drive cordless impact. When I was a mechanic I would have just used an air ratchet for any engine work. I'm also sure I could break it pretty quick putting lug nuts on like you show in the video.
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No comment on the bent base. But I think your borrowing trouble about them not honoring the warranty. I'd worry about it when and if it ever happens.
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On 7/10/2019 at 6:27 PM, Builder16 said:
Hello,
Thanks for all the great advice. I already have a DeWALT circ saw, drill, and impact. I think that I will stick with that system for right now. I also have some of the toughsystem items. I have some experience with Festools and they are very nice tools. I plan on doing mostly rough framing but also some finer work as well. This is where I can see the Festools being good. Another thing that I forgot to mention was nailers. What would you say for those? Battery or Pneumatic? Let me know
Nathan
Personally I'm not a fan of cordless nailers yet. Yes, they are convenient, but very heavy and slow IMO, I'm sure they will improve in the future. I'd rather invest in a good light weight hose and quiet air compressor
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Milwaukee needs to get the bugs out of their forward / Rev switch with on their 18v impact. My one key which gets very little use has been sent back once, and my Surge will be going back for its 3rd repair. Oddly I have never had any issues with my 1st gen 18v impact
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10 hours ago, rrich1 said:
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Some type of joinery machine
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11 hours ago, rrich1 said:
Uh oh
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What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it? What is it?
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy
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Rhino horn causes cancer in CA... just saying
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I picked up a used Starrett builders square
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4 hours ago, Bremon said:
Is this an ironic joke post or are you serious? You’ve never ran a mitre on a site? You’ve never dealt with cords on a site? You’ve seen people work on one site for decades? You believe cordless tools don’t have more power than corded at this point? Your post is irrational.
I guess all the miter stands on wheels are pretty pointless as well
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are you ripping or cross cutting the oak? are the cuts clean or are they leaving burn marks?
If you change to a thicker blade then you will most likely cut more into the splinter guard.
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a fold out table like the Syscart would be nice. I'm thinking about buying just the table and adding it to my packout boxes, or I just may make something similar
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9 hours ago, rrich1 said:
I might be wrong but I think mft tables use a different size dog hole, 5/8" maybe, most are 3/4" dog holes. So keep that in mind if you make the dog holes in your bench.
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The MFT/3 holes are 20mm dia on 96mm centers.
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Something like this? https://www.milwaukeetool.eu/m18-fuel-55-mm-circular-saw-for-wood-and-plastics/m18-ccs55-eu/ Oh wait its only available in Europe.
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Not sure if it still is, but Redmax used to be the choice of landscapers in my area.
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17 minutes ago, Jronman said:
Awesome find. I think the cabinet style table saws from SawStop have the best on/off switches. One switch to turn on and off.
Unfortunately they need a beefier bracket holding the switch, they tend to break with heavy shop use. They are a nice size for smacking with your knee though.
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1 hour ago, rrich1 said:
Very lightly used 1.75hp pcs. I got the industrial base and switched out the pcs base that came with it. The previous owner made an outfeed table that comes off and folds up. A cross cut sled, 2 regular brake cartridges, 1 dado cartridge, and a dado throat plate came with it.
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Very nice!!!!
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Those high pressure nailers are pretty pricey https://www.nailgundepot.com/max-hs130-powerlite-crating-nailer
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These Stanleys are nice, but again not available anymore. Clamps are so pricey these days, best to shop craigslist and ebay and buy lots of older clamps.
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I like the old school clamps that don't slip. The green ones I bought used a while back, they have detents so you can crank on them and they won't slip.
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Looking for a quality router table
in In The Shop
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The cast iron tables are nice but they are kind of small depending on what your are doing. If your going that route I'd look for a used shaper that accepts an adapter to run 1/2 in router bits.
At work we typically make router tables. At home I have one mounted in a 4x8 work table which is nice as there is plenty of area to support the material.
A lot depends on how much you plan on using it. a couple of months ago I bought this one on craigslist for 200.00with the routers