SetBuilder
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Posts posted by SetBuilder
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I wanted a "smart" thermostat but my wife is against all the wifi in the house. Who knows what the long term effects can be. When we had the new 200 amp service put in, they wanted to put the meter on the outside of my daughters bedroom. We said no way and had it run to the other side of the house, so it is away from the bedrooms.
We even went so far as to put "shielding" up behind the drywall behind the meter, 4 ft in each direction. It may have been a total waste of money, but it gives my wife a little piece of mind.
We also have a switch in the master bedroom wired to an outlet across the house where we plug the wifi in. This way we can turn the wifi off from the bedroom.
Like I said, all of our precautions may be for nothing, but having a child in the house is out main concern.
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I don't know why they still make construction screws with philips head screws. A while back I bought a bunch of Grip Rite construction screws at HD that were torx. I loved them as I never had the issue of the bit spinning out like with phillips. All of our screws at work are phillips, this is one thing I wish the industry would change and phillips screws would go away.
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4 hours ago, AnonymousJoe said:
Brad Snelling, he's in central Ohio and does a great job and very affordable. He's real popular on the tree forums if u ever happen to visit those
Ha ha I've been banned from the Arborist forums since around 2006
At one point I owned about 12 modded saws, I sold them all off when I stopped climbing.
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This was something we rigged up this morning. It worked out well
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5 minutes ago, AnonymousJoe said:
i was a climber too and my modded stihl 201t and a husky 562 and that'll do 99% of most trees around here. Sorry I haven't read the thread but someone mentions climbing trees and chainsaws I just had to jump in ?
Who modded them?
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3 hours ago, StrippedScrew said:
I love walking into Stihl or Husqvarna dealers just looking and feeling all them machines makes me something something
I used to climb for a living. Stihl for 020 and 088, all the rest I preferred Husky
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3 hours ago, Jronman said:
nice I seen this braand at Menards. Is it a good brand? Good quality?
There is a place near me that sells woodworking machinery. They have been in business for 40 years and all the brands are hand picked. Saw Stop, General, Fein, Festool etc. CMT is the only brand of router bits they sell.
I have been happy with their router bits and blades for my Festool Vecturo Until... I tried to use one of their blades with the Vecturo plunge guide. The offset on the blade is off so it is about an 1/8 of an inch away from the magnet guide. CMT is out of Italy and I'm waiting to see how they will resolve this issue. I still have brand new blades in the package that I do not want to open. So the jury is out on their customer service for now.
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I won't bother selling anything on CL unless its over 100.00. I also post I will not even respond to low ball offers. I hate having people come to my house, but I have two cameras staring them in the face as they come down my drive way.
I would rather give away tools to people starting out, than try and get 10 to 20.00 for the cheaper things.
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Do you cut the blanks yourself or have them done on CNC? Our CNC guys cut replacement router plates out of acrylic. We have acrylic, lexan, styrene on hand but not corian.
Thank you for the info.
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Ta Da....
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On March 4, 2017 at 11:47 AM, JMG said:
In order to keep trimmer bits from scoring the face edge lamination, wax is applied to the area that the bit rubs against. Laminate suppliers sometimes sell wax sticks designed for this purpose, but paste wax can be used as well if they are not available. It is a defensive measure that I used when trimming mostly on expensive laminations, such as high gloss finishes or aluminum sheet products. Also using wax with solid carbide trim bits is a good idea as well, no matter the grade of material. Some of the laminate products that I was tasked with applying ran in excess of $300 a sheet at times, and nothing is worse than having to purchase an extra sheet of material just to rip a single strip off to fix a screw up that could have been avoided with a little extra effort.
Contact cement can build up quickly between bit and bearing, causing a seize mid cut, turning a metal bearing into the perfect tool for trashing an edge, so the flat plastic bearing surface makes sense to me for more than one reason.
Interesting I'll have to look into the wax. Thank you
When I was trimming the chem metal on this two of the pieces was redone 3x. We kept scratching it when the filings would get trapped under the router plate. We even had tape over the protective film. We did not get it right until I used a Festool router with a Vacuum and had another person following the router with a blower trying to keep all the debris away.
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1 hour ago, KnarlyCarl said:
I have this exact same set... the plunge base slowly stopped gripping and it din't help tightening up the handle because it locked by spring force against movement, looked into it but eventually only use the fixed base now..
I kept wondering why my bit wasn't cutting as deep on quarter round and ogee bits but after looking at it and not getting anywhere, i stopped using it.
Perhaps if i spent some serious time digging into and figuring out the mechanics of it, i'll have it figured out..
But mine is much dirtier ha
I hope it will work out, I have been looking for a plunge router and this deal seamed too good to pass up. I already have a PC 690 and 7839 so this is a nice in between size. I sold my Bench Dog router table yesterday so I had to do something with the money.
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On 3/4/2017 at 10:37 AM, olletsocmit said:
I am looking for suggestions on what to do with extra receptacle space. In the guest bedroom's the house was wired w/ 2 gang boxes in each room next to the door. It was wired for the light on/off switch on the right. The switch on the left controls a power outlet receptacle. So when you turn the left one on or off anything plugged into that one out it will go on and off. I don't really understand the point of it! I rewired it so that that outlet is constantly on like normal.
It is so you can have a lamp plugged in to go off and on with the switch. We have a lot of double gang outlet boxes where half are hot and half are switched.
You could always swap out the combo fan / light switch to two separate switches to fill the double gang box
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I couldn't get on all day yesterday. Mac Safari, still having issues.
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I picked up a PC 890 with 3 router bits for 120.00 on CL. It looks like it was used one or twice, not even any scratches on the base.
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3 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:
hmmm Ive been using 1 a couple months and no problems, usually hooked to a sander but on the occasion of larger debris I've never had a clog,
its also paired with a HEPA filter and a muffler as well
My shop is in a car port so leaves always blow in. They constantly clog that hose, where as the stock one never clogged for me. Even in a lot of the reviews people complained about it clogging. Its the way the ends go on compared to the stock hose.
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7 hours ago, JMG said:
Looks like they would be a good replacement for having to wax the edge before trimming every time. Would be curious to know how long one lasts.
Can you explain what you mean by "wax" the edge? I have not seen that before.
Thanks
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I bought this hose kit at HD about 3 years ago. It was a total piece of crap. Its just a poor design where debris catches on the ends and it constantly clogs. I got fed up with it and it was just hanging in my shop. Last weekend I took it back to HD and they gave me store credit, no questions asked.
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I'm really not that concerned about the warranty as I'll just buy the router from HD, if I fry it I'll just return it. They take anything back
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What size router and what type of router bit are you using on the thick stuff?
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On Freud's website they have a16in 36 tooth Heavy Duty ripping blade. It says the ideal working range in 3/4 to 2 3/4 thick. Thats an odd range for a 16in blade.
On the Diablo's site it doesn't have an ideal thickness range of the16in 32 tooth thin kerf blade.
A Makita beam saw spins at 2200 RPM.
Oliver 16in table saw spin at 3750 rpm
Northfield 16in table saws spin at 3600
There is a old 16in Tannewitz table saw on eBay with a 16in blade and 5HP motor but it doesn't say the RPM, but it only has a 4in depth of cut.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TANNEWITZ-16-034-TILTING-ARBOR-5-HP-TABLE-SAW-VERY-GOOD-/120736253538
I guess your idea of a beam saw blade may work if you could keep the RPMs low enough. But I do not think it would be ideal. A lot would depend on how many board feet you plan on cutting. A thin kerf blade would have a higher tendency to wobble as it heats up on long cuts.
(this is purely an exercise on research for me, all my experience is on 10in table saws between 1.75 hp and 4 hp)
Talking with the blade manufacturers would probably be your best bet as they would be conservative to cover their own butts.
I've read good things about Tenryu blades, but I have never used them.
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7 hours ago, comp56 said:
Steven Seagal slaps it to the right size
Have you seen Steven Seagal lately ? He eats the board....
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No go in the bone yard. All of our old Makitas had a different style handle.
At one point I owned about 12 modded saws, I sold them all off when I stopped climbing.
Smart Home.
in Around The House
Posted
Do a google search on "Smart meter radiation" and "WiFi radiation" I'm not trying to push you one way or the other. If it costs a few hundred bucks to make my wife happy about it, then so be it.
My electrician took some readings at the meter and inside the house and he said the shield was definitely doing something, and he is a total conspiracy theorist...