SetBuilder

http://www.milwaukeehandtrucks.com/products.php?table=HandTrucks

The Milwaukee, Dewalt and Husky boxes are decent for the garage but not for everyday use. Especially getting moved around a big shop. I have the Milwaukee box and in under a year the drawer slides got all gritty sounding and slide like crap. The original one was not very deep compared to commercial boxes. The scope of my work changed, now it just sits unused. I would not purchase it again. A friend of mine was pulling his new husky box across the shop and the welds broke on the handle, pulling it right off. the Dewalt box is in the same class. Boxes like Mac, snap on, Matco are a lot more money for a reason, they are built 10x better. Some of the older craftsman boxes were built really well. No idea on harbor freight.

I saw something today on FB that Ohio power tool received a load of table saws.

One of the guys at work made this. Its a Ridgid usb charger that he wired to a Milwaukee battery.

The one thing I dislike about that stand is there is a lot of flex in the support arms. I have an older version where the arms had actual rollers on them. When cutting longer boards its a pain to get them adjusted so the board sits flat on the saw due to flex in the arms. I usually use additional roller stands when cutting long boards with my dewalt stand.

Do you have enough room to slide the wings all the way out to make 45 degree bevel cuts? I'm not that familiar with bosch , but with Dewalt miter saws you need a lot of room.

Unless he is heavily invested in a cordless platform I would look at corded Bosch jig saws and then pick a price point in their line up.

The M18 jig saw is pretty kind of out dated, I bought one at HD used it a bit and returned it. They have 2 new jig saws coming out in a few months. See if you could borrow a jig saw in the meantime.

At home I keep them in a drilled out 2x6 in my box at work I keep them in a small plastic organizer. I don't bother labeling them, I can tell what they are by looking at them or checking some with a tape measure.

My Jet table does not have a riving knife and I do not use a guard on it. I use an MJ splitter on it though https://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter

I ended up switching it so the bottom of the board was against the fence. One one of the passes a bit of primer got embedded in the fence and put a groove in the top of the board. If the groove is on the bottom it goes against the floor. i just used construction screws and fender washers for the feather boards.

I made a little down and dirty router table today making some base board trim for my house. I set the router up in the middle of a 8ft work table. With a roller stand on each end I was able to easily manage 16ft boards.

So many variables... Are you re-tapping a hole or tapping brand new threads? What is the quality of the tap? What kind of lube are you using? I had some taps made by TRW that were the bomb, I used to run them with 1/2 impact gun to clean threads in exhaust manifolds and they did not break. But I think TRW stopped making tools a while back. I also have a Snap on set and would occasionally snap one. Stay with the higher quality ones that offer a free replacement guarantee, because over time they will break.

IMO skip the one key and buy the Surge impact, it has 4 torque settings.

The E Service repair is free shipping, send it back and see what happens.

I have two Tajimas one with an aluminum case and one plastic. They come with 3 different line thicknesses. I first bought the the ultra fine line and returned it. It was too hard to grab the line to snap it. I tossed my Milwaukee chalk line in the trash on friday after about a year of use it jammed up. The Dewalt 30ft line is also nice to have as its very small and doesn't take up much room in your bags.

Picked up a 9in Starrett combination square for 15.00 at a flea market over the weekend.

Growing up my dad was a plumber, so I was raised with Milwaukee right angle drills and sawzalls. So when I began buying tools it was mostly brand recognition as it was what I was most familiar with. My cordless stuff is all Milwaukee except for a Fein OMT, chops saws are dewalt, table saw is Jet and then I have some festool. Routers are mainly porter cable and one ridgid. I basically have a health mix of brands.

I haven't tried it yet, but I read somewhere about using a vacuum to try and suck the glue through a crack before clamping. It seems like a good idea rather than just trying to push glue into a crack.

What did you see about Milwaukee updating their Jigsaws? I was hoping they would have done it last year. They are still missing a cordless router.

An 8in by 8in storage closet seems a little small

By back I meant back of each of of the 3 cabinets. The back would not extend past the desk top, it would be rabbeted in.

IMO bracing really is not needed. Its 3 cabinets the back will keep it from racking. What is the finish on the sides, paint, stain or laminate? The bigger concern would be the top, since depending upon size you will probably need to make it in two pieces. Where will you put the seam and how will you support it?

At work all of our miter saw stands are made from wood. So we just screw a board into our stands right across the saw as a crown stop. Its nice to have a long stop set up when cutting 16ft pieces of crown. With the little tabs its hard to get the crown nested right on long pieces.

My point was people usually buy corded then buy Cordless. I owned two corded Milwaukee sawzalls before I bought a cordless one. I owned 3 corded circular saws before a cordless, 2 corded grinders before a cordless. There is not much of a market for corded grinders circular saws etc. So I just keep them around the house and my cordless stuff is for work and there is a slew of corded tools there as well.