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Posts posted by Biggie

  1. I had your exact same situation.  What I found is the 9ah will actually fit in the blower although it's tight and takes a little flexing but it does go.  I think it's just a design oversight and I've never had any issues running the blower with the 9ah.  Then again I'm just a homeowner that uses the blower to clean up my driveway, sidewalk and patio so I'm not draining a battery in a single use.

  2. I'm on the milwaukee and Dewalt battery platforms.  I only have 1-⅛" rotary hammers but side by side I would say the dewalt makes a little better rotary hammer.  Like wingless said bosch has always had a good reputation for rotary hammers but I personally don't have any experience.  I've also seen some good things about Makita but again I have no experience.  I don't know what the availability is on Hilti in Russia but if you're serious about rotary hammers they really are supreme.  You're also going to pay a pretty good premium but if you're using them daily they're probably worth it.

  3. 6 hours ago, fishera9 said:

    I have exactly the same issue with a pair of 5 amp hour dewalt batteries. They are 7 months old and only been charged a few times, but won't fully charge. Did not realise until this fault became known that Dewalt do not offer any guarantee on batteries and chargers. Will never buy Dewalt tools again.

    Dewalt batteries should have a 3 year warranty from either a receipt or the build date on the battery.  I'm not familiar with the charger warranty but it must be at least a 1 year warranty.  Ive sent a few in to a factory service center over the years without a receipt just using the date code on the battery and they send out new ones. I've also heard of people just calling Dewalt and they just send out new batteries.

  4. If the chuck is junk anyhow cutting it apart to get a better look and access might be the thing to do.  I'm not real familiar with that specific drill but I do know some of dewalts cordless drills don't actually have a retaining screw.  In this case what you would actually be seeing is the end of the spindle which can have a dimple in the end that looks like it might be some kind of torque or allen head but it isn't.  If this were the case the chuck should just spin off with enough torque.

  5. I have the m18 ⅜" right angle impact and the m12 ⅜" brushed (non-fuel) ratchet.  The impact is pretty underpowered at only 60ft/lbs of torque.  It is pretty compact but won't break a lot of fasteners loose and then you're stuck grabbing a wrench anyhow. The m12 ratchet, while having less torque can be used as a ratchet so you can break the fastener loose by hand and then use the power to run it off.  I also have the m12 right angle impact wrench, which has like 250ft/lbs of torque so it has a lot more power but the head is also not as compact.  I'm not a mechanic but I would think the ratchet would be best suited for engine bay work.

  6. While some people seem to have success with knock off batteries, I personally would steer clear.  A lot of times the performance doesn't match the amp hour rating like a genuine battery.  Then there are some safety concerns such as does it have the technology to not fry your tool or burn down your house while charging.  Not saying that they will and I'm sure there are some that are just fine but to me it's not worth the risk.  If you go this route I would just make sure to read reviews and try get somewhat reputable knock offs.


    Genuine batteries alone aren't cheap and more than likely if you go this route you're probably better off getting a new driver as a kit with batteries if you're kind of leaning that way anyhow.

    • Like 2
  7. Sounds like what you're describing is probably pretty normal although it's hard to say without seeing it.  Might just be some tolerance difference between the sockets and impact.  I know I have some cheap sets of harbor freight sockets that wobble pretty good when they aren't on a bolt but they've never been a problem when in use.

  8. They really should fit tight sometimes when the impact is new the hogring can be stiff and it's possible you're not getting the socket pushed on quite far enough.  It could also be possible that there's some goofy tolerance issue between the impact and socket but that's not real common as most sockets and impact wrenches should be universal.  I have an old m12 ⅜" impact wrench and some chrome sockets don't always fit right on it but never have a problem with impact sockets.

  9. I have a 2703 and 2704 and for whatever reason with enough force you can spin the motor backwards by turning the chuck.  I don't think it was always that way and the 2704 can't be spun by hand.  Almost like there should be a braking force from the motor but the one no longer has it or it's not as strong.  I actually changed out the chuck on the 2703.  I tried putting a small breaker bar on the allen first, then tried an impact wrench on the allen, also tried a hammer and none of those worked.  If the drill works and it'll lock the allen wrench in the chuck, what I finally did was attach the side handle, put the drill in low gear, and lock the allen in a vise.  Then I just ran the drill in reverse and with acouple short burst of full trigger pulls it spun the chuck right off.

    • Like 1
  10. Interesting I have one that's a few years old now but it has the quick release chuck.  The chuck collar stays out and open when you release the bit and then you just stick the new bit in and the bit itself releases and locks the collar in towards the drill.  It's actually a pretty slick set up I don't know why they would change it. 

  11. While dewalt has built 24v tools they haven't for years.  Other than the names nothing about them is right.  There's no doubt about it they're fakes.  It depends on how much and under what pretenses you purchased them.  As a cheapo Chinese $25-$50 homeowner drill it'll probably drill some holes and run some screws.  If you paid anywhere near $100 thinking you were getting a genuine Dewalt drill I'd be pissed and demand a refund. 

  12. From a little bit of googling I believe the tool you have would be considered a hammer drill in the US and a percussion drill in some other countries.  It's a green bosch so I'm assuming this isn't a US drill.  These drills have three modes. 1-screw driver mode which has an adjustable clutch to keep from over torquing a screw.  2-drill mode. 3- hammer/ percussion drill mode which is used for drilling into concrete.  This is a different tool than an impact driver which has a different type of hammer mechanism that's used for driving screws and helps prevent cam-out.  As far as your electrical cut out issue I don't have any idea but it sounds like something is defective.

  13. DCF903B_A1.jpg

    Looks like Dewalt is upping their 12v impact game.  New dcf901 1/2" and dcf903 3/8".  Also looks like they have a 5a/h battery.  They're said to have 250ft/lbs of tightening and 400ft/lbs of break away, which from using the current 12v extreme dcf902 I'm a little skeptical of those numbers but maybe the 5 amp battery will help.  No speed setting, only variable speed trigger which is kind of disappointing but in reality probably not that big of a deal.  Hopefully this means they might update some of their 20v impact wrenches as well, the dcf 880 in particular has become a little long in the tooth. 

    • Like 1
  14. If there's no Allen or Phillips head, the "pin" you're looking at is just the end of the spindle.  In this case the chuck is only held on by locktite to the spindle and there is no secondary fastener.  There are other topics about this in the forums here if you do a little searching or if I remember right there are some youtube videos covering it.  They can still be somewhat challenging to get off depending on the damage of the original chuck but it should come off.

  15. The all black chuck is the newest chuck and in the US we only get that on the Gen 3 m18 drills.  I see these are fpd models so you must be EU but in the US they're called a 2504-20 and we only get those with the older silver ring chucks.  The all black chuck should be the better chuck, just interesting that the older drill had a newer chuck and the new drill had an older chuck.  Maybe other countries actually get different grades of the same model tool?  It would also be nice if milwaukee would update the chuck on the gen2 hammer drill in the US, but I suppose they'll just wait to bring it out on the Gen3.

  16. I don't have a 1" but have multiple milwaukee impacts that I use daily.  I've never had one that glitches and actually switches on its own but I bump the power settings all the time.  I don't hear too many people complain about it but it's probably one of my biggest complaints. Maybe I have big hands so it's easier to bump but my summer workers bump them too and don't realize it until I hear it across the jobsite and have to go tell them to switch it back. 

  17. Probably the biggest thing a fuel model would gain would be the brushless motor and the jigsaw is pretty battery hungry so longer runtime would be a plus.  Its not terrible with a xc battery but it always could be better.  I have the m12 jigsaw and while I don't use it much I would say it could use some sort of dust blower.  Before I bought it that seemed to be the biggest complaint in online reviews and I thought well how bad could it be?  Well even with just limited homeowner use I thought it was pretty bad and hard to follow a line because of all the saw dust.  I would imagine a fuel model could be on a short list of models to be updated in the near future but who knows.

  18. Continuing to use the "post-style" batteries would have been the death of dewalt.  For a home-owner grade tool like ryobi it works because people aren't using the tools every day to make a living.  With dewalt being a pro-grade tool they needed to keep current with battery technology and ergonomics.  Had they done it sooner I probably would have never jumped ship to milwaukee.  If you're really dead set on sticking with your old tools as its been mentioned you can still buy new xrp batteries or get an adaptor.  

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