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Everything posted by Biggie

  1. Hey PJ1, I kind of forgot about your mod until this thread was revived the other day and it got me thinking. When you said you had to bore the nose cone bushing do you recall was the bushing metal or plastic of some sort? How easy or hard did you think it was to get the drill bit to recenter in the bushing? I bought a new m18 gen 3 impact wrench but I don't really care for the tri-beam led as it makes the business end of the tool too fat. Just got me thinking I might piece one together with an ebay 2853 driver and 1/2" anvil.
  2. Might depend on the size of the wire brush, I personally only run a 3"(~75mm) wire brush on that size grinder. If you're running a 125mm or even possibly a 100mm wire brush I could see it being pretty hard on that size grinder.
  3. -20 is new and -80 is factory reconditioned. Milwaukees number system first 4 numbers are tool model the 5th number is either a 2 or 8 which indicates new or recon, and the 6th number indicates how many batteries come with it.
  4. From a google search in the US they're both 3.0ah but the dcb124-xj is a 10.8/12v battery and the dcb187-xj is a 18/20v battery. The dcd776 is a 18/20v tool so I believe you need the dcb187-xj. Dewalts numbering system is a little different in the US but thats what it looks like to me.
  5. The 9.0 wasn't one of milwaukees better batteries. I have 3 and one of them will only charge to 3 bars. If you look at reviews on milwaukees website this is a common issue on the 9.0 it has something to do with not being able to balance the charge in the cells. I really do like the runtime when paired with a high demand tool like a grinder or rotary hammer but they also can be overheated with prolonged continuous use. The 8.0 is a newer generation of battery and where the 9.0 uses 15 18650 cells the 8.0 uses 10 larger 21700 cells. I'm no battery expert but the 21700 cell is what all brands are switching to in their high output batteries. I'm sure on some lower demand tools the 9.0 will give a bit more runtime but I wouldn't be surprised if on a high demand tool that they would be very similar. In the end I think you'll be happy that you bought the 8.0 over the 9.0.
  6. Generally speaking I think bosch is perceived as a reliable and quality power tool. They're probably on a level with dewalt, makita, and milwaukee. When it comes to cordless they don't seem to be to excited about releasing new tools in the US nor are they concerned with trying to be the leader when it comes to performance numbers. Yet when it comes to real world josite performance they have no problem keeping up. We mainly run Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tools but I have one set of bosch tools that stays in our metal fab shop and I've never felt like they're lacking anything in performance and they've held up well over the years.
  7. Yea I'm sure there's a market for the HP if they're making them and for staying in one battery line it makes sense for some people. It just seems like a steep price to pay for a ryobi impact wrench. Granted there will be deals on it over time too but I think I paid $115 for a dewalt mid torque a year ago and I've seen the milwuakee gen 1 down in the $140s. The last milwaukee gen2 high torque I bought was only $165 even if it was off ebay it was new and had 5 years of warranty.
  8. Looks like a nice impact. The thing with these new HP tools ryobi is coming out with is they keep creeping up in price. I could see as a homeowner if you had a couple tools that you used more frequently you could buy say a nicer drill but still be able to buy cheaper brushed tools to fill out your line up. But I can't see why anyone would buy a big set of the ryobi HP tools. At that point I think the price is so close to milwaukee and Dewalt you're money would be better spent upgrading to a different line of tools.
  9. Biggie


    Sorry I was busy the last couple days at work but I did finally check and mine in the 1st setting can be held from turning with my hand. So I would assume yours is pretty normal and I know the first gen high torque from Milwaukee was said to do 100ft/lbs in setting 1 but it never really did similar to the dewalt. An impact just isn't precise enough to accurately set a specific torque maybe the exception being the milwaukee high torque "one-key" models.
  10. I have almost every m12 and m18 impact driver made and what I've found is at home I still use my old brushed m12 drill the most. Obviously everyone has different needs but at home I find myself putting up blinds, pictures, and assembling cheap furniture for my wife. For these small fasteners I just don't like using an impact because they strip too easily. Even with all the power modes on the fuel impacts I still prefer the old school mechanical clutch on my drill. The one impact driver I don't have is the m12 surge which I think would be a pretty sweet for around the house. I have the m18 surge and it's really quiet compared to a traditional impact, but I suspect the drilling would be pretty limited with it.
  11. Biggie


    This is probably normal. I have a dcf899 at my shop I could give it a socket in hand test on monday but they usually are pretty weak in settings 1. There are just so many variables that the impact has no real way of knowing what torque its hitting in setting 1. All the settings are doing are changing the motor rpms. Most manufactures won't even state a torque in these lower speed settings. Dewalt for their testing probably took one specific size, new, and lubricated fastener and then hammered on it for 15-20 seconds at that rpm and got an average reading of 100ft lbs over 100 test. Now you're probably tightening a different size lug that may or may not be corroded and after about five seconds of hammering you probably stopped because yes it probably has more or less stopped turning but you're actually not getting maximum torque in that amount of time. This is pretty common with all brands of impacts as marketing numbers and real world numbers don't always match up.
  12. Yea I know there still are some drills that have a mechanical clutch. I think it was just another electronic tech thing they could put in drills but it sounds like the old way might have been better.
  13. Like Eric said it is the torque setting you want to adjust. Older drills used to have mechanical slip clutches that clicked when a desired torque was met. The new age drills have electronic clutches that sense the torque and are supposed to shut it down electronically when it hits a certain torque. I personally don't use the the torque settings very often but I've heard other people complain that the electronic clutches aren't sensitive enough and aren't as consistent as the old mechanical clutches.
  14. Doesn't look like any dewalt grinder I've ever seen in the US, where its supposedly made. Looks to me like a fake copied off their cordless model dcg412 without the hand guard, but as far as I know they never made a corded model like that. Another thing that doesn't look right are the Phillips head fasteners where dewalt typically uses torx head fasteners
  15. I have a 2704 and 2703 at work and I've never noticed the led doing that. I'd have to check next week to be certain but I would think I would notice something like that. I've also never seen anything like that in any of my other m18 tools. I do believe the led does come on when a battery is inserted, it couldn't possibly be an issue with the battery not having a good connection. Just seems strange that two different drills would have the same strange issue.
  16. It's a nice tool but I don't know why I bought it other than I have an addiction haha. I already have the m12 stubby 1/2" and to be honest I just don't use it except for specific situations. For my everyday work the slimmer gen2 compact impact wrench just work better for getting into tight corners and flanges.
  17. Biggie


    While I could be wrong my guess is you have bits more like in the second picture and you need bits like in the first picture with the little notch at the bottom where its inserted into the driver.
  18. The dcs391 would be the brushed 6½" blade left saw that would be very comparable to your old 18. While I have no experience with it, I've heard people on here say it gets a little power boost from larger Ah batteries. Dewalt also just released the dcs565 which is a brushless 6½" blade left saw. There aren't a lot of reviews online about this new saw and I see its not the top tier XR branding like your dcs570 but it is brushless so I would assume its an upgrade from the dcs391 but I don't really know.
  19. I do ag construction which is a mix of metal fab, steel erection, and concrete work. I carry two 5" and one 6" fuel grinders on my truck and they're good enough I no longer even carry a corded grinder. I have a brushed m18 at my house and the only thing I use it for is sharpening my lawn mower blade but its more than capable of doing that with a 4ah. At our shop I have an old m18 brushed and a few old 3ah batteries and I would say that the 3ah make it kind of a turd as it just goes through batteries too fast and once they get down 2 bars you can tell. Another thing I notice is that my workers who don't know the difference between brushed and brushless seem to not discriminate between the two. These are the reasons why as much as I love my fuel grinders if you're not using it everyday you probably could get away with the brushed. Its just up to you if you want to spend the money to have the top of the line.
  20. It sounds to me like you would be fine with the brushed model especially if you can get it for half the price. The brushless grinders will get more runtime and are harder to get to stall but if you're not using it everyday and have a few 5.0 batteries the brushed is still pretty decent. Almost all cordless grinders are more effective with cut off wheels and smaller clean up work than all out grinding as the battery life on all of them just isn't there if you're going to use it like a corded grinder.
  21. Just a quick look on e-replacement parts it looks like they use the same field but different armature. What's actually different about them who knows and they may still work but they have different part numbers and on the 705 there's a note that the armature has 10 teeth. The 708 could be 10 teeth too but it just doesn't have any extra notes with it, so I'm guessing the fact that it has that note might mean its something odd but maybe not.
  22. Nope they don't make a compact 1/2" in xr/brushless. For the life of me I can't figure out why. It wasn't until after the dcf887 impact driver was released that they finally put the 3/8" anvil on the dcf886 and called it a dcf890. For whatever reason they just don't seem to be to concerned with updating the compact impact wrenches so you're pretty much stuck going with the dcf894 if you want brushless but even that is considerably larger than the dcf880. While the dcf880 has fallen behind some of the competitions compact wrenches i think you'll find its still a pretty decent little impact.
  23. More than likely the extension has something to do with it like framer said. Another thing to look at would be what battery you're using. If you're using a compact battery you won't get the full power of the impact. Also if it was torqued to 250ft/lbs and has sat and corroded it will take more than 250ft/lbs to remove it although i would think the dcf899 would still have enough extra torque to do it. But if you have all three of these things fighting you I could see it possibly having trouble.
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