Biggie

I know makita seems to be the king of impact drivers and release a new model quite frequently, but I'm not in the makita battery line so I don't know the model numbers.

While some people seem to have success with knock off batteries, I personally would steer clear. A lot of times the performance doesn't match the amp hour rating like a genuine battery. Then there are some safety concerns such as does it have the technology to not fry your tool or burn down your house while charging. Not saying that they will and I'm sure there are some that are just fine but to me it's not worth the risk. If you go this route I would just make sure to read reviews and try get somewhat reputable knock offs. Genuine batteries alone aren't cheap and more than likely if you go this route you're probably better off getting a new driver as a kit with batteries if you're kind of leaning that way anyhow.

Nope there's no special socket for a hog ring. I don't think anyone even makes a 3/8" drive impact wrench with anything but a hog ring.

Sounds like what you're describing is probably pretty normal although it's hard to say without seeing it. Might just be some tolerance difference between the sockets and impact. I know I have some cheap sets of harbor freight sockets that wobble pretty good when they aren't on a bolt but they've never been a problem when in use.

They really should fit tight sometimes when the impact is new the hogring can be stiff and it's possible you're not getting the socket pushed on quite far enough. It could also be possible that there's some goofy tolerance issue between the impact and socket but that's not real common as most sockets and impact wrenches should be universal. I have an old m12 ⅜" impact wrench and some chrome sockets don't always fit right on it but never have a problem with impact sockets.

I have a 2703 and 2704 and for whatever reason with enough force you can spin the motor backwards by turning the chuck. I don't think it was always that way and the 2704 can't be spun by hand. Almost like there should be a braking force from the motor but the one no longer has it or it's not as strong. I actually changed out the chuck on the 2703. I tried putting a small breaker bar on the allen first, then tried an impact wrench on the allen, also tried a hammer and none of those worked. If the drill works and it'll lock the allen wrench in the chuck, what I finally did was attach the side handle, put the drill in low gear, and lock the allen in a vise. Then I just ran the drill in reverse and with acouple short burst of full trigger pulls it spun the chuck right off.

Interesting I have one that's a few years old now but it has the quick release chuck. The chuck collar stays out and open when you release the bit and then you just stick the new bit in and the bit itself releases and locks the collar in towards the drill. It's actually a pretty slick set up I don't know why they would change it.

While dewalt has built 24v tools they haven't for years. Other than the names nothing about them is right. There's no doubt about it they're fakes. It depends on how much and under what pretenses you purchased them. As a cheapo Chinese $25-$50 homeowner drill it'll probably drill some holes and run some screws. If you paid anywhere near $100 thinking you were getting a genuine Dewalt drill I'd be pissed and demand a refund.

The dch253 is brushed and the dch273 is brushless. In my opinion for how battery hungry a sds can be I would lean towards the brushless for its runtime. In the US I don't think the dch253 is even sold anymore.

From a little bit of googling I believe the tool you have would be considered a hammer drill in the US and a percussion drill in some other countries. It's a green bosch so I'm assuming this isn't a US drill. These drills have three modes. 1-screw driver mode which has an adjustable clutch to keep from over torquing a screw. 2-drill mode. 3- hammer/ percussion drill mode which is used for drilling into concrete. This is a different tool than an impact driver which has a different type of hammer mechanism that's used for driving screws and helps prevent cam-out. As far as your electrical cut out issue I don't have any idea but it sounds like something is defective.

Don't have one so I can't tell you for sure but if it's anything like other milwaukee lights when they get low like the last few minutes of runtime they'll flash the main light a few times every minute or so.

Looks like Dewalt is upping their 12v impact game. New dcf901 1/2" and dcf903 3/8". Also looks like they have a 5a/h battery. They're said to have 250ft/lbs of tightening and 400ft/lbs of break away, which from using the current 12v extreme dcf902 I'm a little skeptical of those numbers but maybe the 5 amp battery will help. No speed setting, only variable speed trigger which is kind of disappointing but in reality probably not that big of a deal. Hopefully this means they might update some of their 20v impact wrenches as well, the dcf 880 in particular has become a little long in the tooth.

If there's no Allen or Phillips head, the "pin" you're looking at is just the end of the spindle. In this case the chuck is only held on by locktite to the spindle and there is no secondary fastener. There are other topics about this in the forums here if you do a little searching or if I remember right there are some youtube videos covering it. They can still be somewhat challenging to get off depending on the damage of the original chuck but it should come off.

The all black chuck is the newest chuck and in the US we only get that on the Gen 3 m18 drills. I see these are fpd models so you must be EU but in the US they're called a 2504-20 and we only get those with the older silver ring chucks. The all black chuck should be the better chuck, just interesting that the older drill had a newer chuck and the new drill had an older chuck. Maybe other countries actually get different grades of the same model tool? It would also be nice if milwaukee would update the chuck on the gen2 hammer drill in the US, but I suppose they'll just wait to bring it out on the Gen3.

I don't have a 1" but have multiple milwaukee impacts that I use daily. I've never had one that glitches and actually switches on its own but I bump the power settings all the time. I don't hear too many people complain about it but it's probably one of my biggest complaints. Maybe I have big hands so it's easier to bump but my summer workers bump them too and don't realize it until I hear it across the jobsite and have to go tell them to switch it back.

Probably the biggest thing a fuel model would gain would be the brushless motor and the jigsaw is pretty battery hungry so longer runtime would be a plus. Its not terrible with a xc battery but it always could be better. I have the m12 jigsaw and while I don't use it much I would say it could use some sort of dust blower. Before I bought it that seemed to be the biggest complaint in online reviews and I thought well how bad could it be? Well even with just limited homeowner use I thought it was pretty bad and hard to follow a line because of all the saw dust. I would imagine a fuel model could be on a short list of models to be updated in the near future but who knows.

Continuing to use the "post-style" batteries would have been the death of dewalt. For a home-owner grade tool like ryobi it works because people aren't using the tools every day to make a living. With dewalt being a pro-grade tool they needed to keep current with battery technology and ergonomics. Had they done it sooner I probably would have never jumped ship to milwaukee. If you're really dead set on sticking with your old tools as its been mentioned you can still buy new xrp batteries or get an adaptor.

Hey PJ1, I kind of forgot about your mod until this thread was revived the other day and it got me thinking. When you said you had to bore the nose cone bushing do you recall was the bushing metal or plastic of some sort? How easy or hard did you think it was to get the drill bit to recenter in the bushing? I bought a new m18 gen 3 impact wrench but I don't really care for the tri-beam led as it makes the business end of the tool too fat. Just got me thinking I might piece one together with an ebay 2853 driver and 1/2" anvil.

Might depend on the size of the wire brush, I personally only run a 3"(~75mm) wire brush on that size grinder. If you're running a 125mm or even possibly a 100mm wire brush I could see it being pretty hard on that size grinder.

-20 is new and -80 is factory reconditioned. Milwaukees number system first 4 numbers are tool model the 5th number is either a 2 or 8 which indicates new or recon, and the 6th number indicates how many batteries come with it.

From a google search in the US they're both 3.0ah but the dcb124-xj is a 10.8/12v battery and the dcb187-xj is a 18/20v battery. The dcd776 is a 18/20v tool so I believe you need the dcb187-xj. Dewalts numbering system is a little different in the US but thats what it looks like to me.

The 9.0 wasn't one of milwaukees better batteries. I have 3 and one of them will only charge to 3 bars. If you look at reviews on milwaukees website this is a common issue on the 9.0 it has something to do with not being able to balance the charge in the cells. I really do like the runtime when paired with a high demand tool like a grinder or rotary hammer but they also can be overheated with prolonged continuous use. The 8.0 is a newer generation of battery and where the 9.0 uses 15 18650 cells the 8.0 uses 10 larger 21700 cells. I'm no battery expert but the 21700 cell is what all brands are switching to in their high output batteries. I'm sure on some lower demand tools the 9.0 will give a bit more runtime but I wouldn't be surprised if on a high demand tool that they would be very similar. In the end I think you'll be happy that you bought the 8.0 over the 9.0.

Generally speaking I think bosch is perceived as a reliable and quality power tool. They're probably on a level with dewalt, makita, and milwaukee. When it comes to cordless they don't seem to be to excited about releasing new tools in the US nor are they concerned with trying to be the leader when it comes to performance numbers. Yet when it comes to real world josite performance they have no problem keeping up. We mainly run Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tools but I have one set of bosch tools that stays in our metal fab shop and I've never felt like they're lacking anything in performance and they've held up well over the years.

Yea I'm sure there's a market for the HP if they're making them and for staying in one battery line it makes sense for some people. It just seems like a steep price to pay for a ryobi impact wrench. Granted there will be deals on it over time too but I think I paid $115 for a dewalt mid torque a year ago and I've seen the milwuakee gen 1 down in the $140s. The last milwaukee gen2 high torque I bought was only $165 even if it was off ebay it was new and had 5 years of warranty.

Looks like a nice impact. The thing with these new HP tools ryobi is coming out with is they keep creeping up in price. I could see as a homeowner if you had a couple tools that you used more frequently you could buy say a nicer drill but still be able to buy cheaper brushed tools to fill out your line up. But I can't see why anyone would buy a big set of the ryobi HP tools. At that point I think the price is so close to milwaukee and Dewalt you're money would be better spent upgrading to a different line of tools.